Converting Bafang 9 pin connector to Grin-controllers

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Mar 29, 2016
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Hello,
I bought a 72V 40A Grinfineon Controller that comes with Anderson connectors for the phase wires, and JST-SM connectors for the hall sensors.
I want it to power my rear Bafang SWHX, and since that motor has the 9 pin (dean?) connector I have to make a conversion.
I couldn't find any shelf product which can do that, and it's a shame, since soldering/cutting on that 9 pin cable seems like a lost-case over time with all the shakes of a moving bicycle.
I already have a 9 pin extension cable and I will convert that one (cutting it's male side and converting it to Grin-Tech standard), since I want to keep my original motor connectors for the future when I will sell it together with it's controller (That comes with the bike).

Any idea of how to do it, so that the conversion will be reliable with time?

And another question - Although that motor has a "250W" sticker, it's drawing already 15A from it's generic-controller (540W), and even at 540W it's barely even warm to the touch.
That's why I wanted to extract more power from the motor - in the order of 25A-30A. I understood the 3 phase wires in the 9pin connector can handle that current, right?
 
If you use the extension lead, you will have a connector for the motor, so you can cut all the connectors off the controller and solder the m directly to the motor extension wire. There's no need for two connectors. Alternatively, you can unsolder the motor phase and hall wires from the PCB and solder the motor extension cable to it.
 
The 9-pin connector is a very good connector. Water-proof and small enough to go though the axle hardware, you should keep it and ditch the Grin connectors using this;
http://lunacycle.com/parts/hub-motor-parts/ebike-kit-extension-cable/
25 to 40 Amps is too much for a mini-motor and you will soon a have a smelly paper-weight.
@ 48V, 20 Amps is about the max., less Amps as the Volts go up.
Over 1000 Watts is death territory for mini-motors, we have seen it a lot here.
More often than not, it's the gears that get damaged. High powered controllers, especially Infineons, will "hammer" the plastic gears.
There really is no reason to run high Amps thru a mini anyhow. The windings become saturated and they start to produce more heat than motive force.
Save the Big controller for a Big motor and stay under 1K Watts would be my recommendation.
 
I agree, permanently connect the extension cable to the controller.

You will of course, make temporary connections to get er running proper. Then do solder and shrink to make your permanent connection.

Or, put the grin type connectors on the end of your extension wire.
 
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