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Converting Yamaha SR 125 to electric (questions about motor and cells)

I could get a Suzuki GN 125 here, it would be the same bike that you have, I think.
Mine is EN 125
the chassis GN125 EN125 and SR125
they seem very similar
You could install the controller under the tank.
look at the space you have under the tank
you cut it down
the widest battery, not tall
and in 96v

a HUB motor for a 90/90 tire o 110/90 17.
I see that Yamaha is original with spoked wheel.
A hub motor with spokes would look good.

excuse my bad english.
 
The problem with overbuilding is the 11kW limit for A1 category. I think the 6000W is rated for 12kW, so I'm not sure if it would be legal to use even that one, no matter whether the rest of the drive train can even provide that much power to it. I would have to ask the authorities.

And yeah, the 100km/h for 20 - 30 mins wouldn't be a regular thing. It's just, when you want to ride the highway, and there are lots of cargo trucks around, it's annoying and even a bit dangerous if you are slower than them, because they tend to not slow down and instead want to overtake you. And there are almost always lots of cargo trucks in the right lane on our mostly 2 lane highways in Switzerland. But I think the speed limit for them is 80 km/h (although it seems to me most of them are actually faster), so 90 km/h would probably be enough.

But I could probably drop the A1 category requirement. I thought it might be easier to make it street legal again, if it stays in the same category, and also of course more people could ride it (a lot of people still have A1 from their regular car driving license).

Lots of parameters to think about.
Make sure you understand the regulations before you make any important decisions.
Stark varg ex is A1 registered in Europe, I suppose that is with 80hp. I haven't seen it anywhere in the specs, but I guess that it is not a continuous rating, and that the continuous is pretty much lower.
My guess is you can go for a 11kw continuous rated motor and build the rest pretty much how you want it (power wise), but it is probably a good idea to check with the station where you plan to register it.
 
Siaecosys has a 8kw 17inch spoke motor
 

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Make sure you understand the regulations before you make any important decisions.
Yeah, sure I will. I have also spoken with some other people about it, and one has remarked concern considering water and how to get the battery pack watertight. I personally don't think it will be a big problem, but I frankly am inexperienced when it comes to waterproofing things.

Another thing that came up was torque arms, when I mentioned I'm planning to go with a hub motor. I have done some cursory research, and I have seen builds who basically just drill an additional hole into the fork end and bolt the included torque arms of the QS motor down there, and others who fabricate new elaborate clamps to install the hub motor's axle in. I'm also not sure if I should cut the fork ends to slide the hub motor in, or if it's possible to just bend it open a bit. Would be annoying for repairs, though.

So yeah, there will of course be a lot of challenges to overcome. Charging is another thing I have not really looked into yet. Ideally, I'd want to use an onboard charger that is compatible with Type 2 charging stations (using 230 V AC only with ~ 120 - 150 amps). But not sure if this is feasible and how much it would cost. I guess most people just use an external charger?
 
You could install the controller under the tank.
look at the space you have under the tank
you cut it down
the widest battery, not tall
and in 96v
Yeah, I have already planned to put either the controller, or an onboard charger under the tank. It depends on the battery design, though, I will first try to design that and figure out how to mount it and then design the rest around it. Since I'm probably going with a hub motor, it should be possible to make it large enough without it becoming too tall, but I will probably have to fold the 24s in half at least, if I'm going with the 40mm round cells. 96V will be impossible with those cells, though, I'd have to go with different cells.
 
For peak power levels of 10kW and more you need to make tourqe arms or clamps yourself.
The crappy metal things that QS sends with the motors will not last very long.
 
I personally don't think it will be a big problem, but I frankly am inexperienced when it comes to waterproofing things.
So are most of the companies that make "waterproof" devices, even when they claim IP ratings of various levels. ;)

Because of cable entry and exit, it takes some work to make things waterproof, even if you start wiht something like a Pelican case (which is pretty good for simple containment). Sometimes it's as much about placement of holes and access panels/etc as it is about the actual waterproofing, in case that WP / seals fail over time.
 
Do not make it to waterproof.
IP rating says only that the incoming water does not harm anything.
If the holes in the bottom are big enough and it is nearly waterproof on the five other sides, everything should be ok.
 
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I was inspecting the Suzuki GN125 today, and unfortunately, it has quite a bit of rust on all of the frame joints. The shock absorbers are also very soft, but I guess this could be remedied. The most problematic bit is that the bike is probably just too small for me, it didn't feel very comfortable during the short test drive. I would probably have to make different foot pegs.
There's also a drum brake in the rear, which I would have to switch out of course if I went with a hub motor.

And the Yamaha vendor retracted his offer when I mentioned I want to convert it to electric.
 
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