kiwiev
100 kW
Nice work mate
By the time you do mine you will have it down pat
Cheers Kiwi
By the time you do mine you will have it down pat
Cheers Kiwi
Cooling fans inside Hub motors
- Thread starter Cowardlyduck
- Start date
litespeed
100 kW
Cowardlyduck said:
I have a MXUS 6T that I'll be installing 6 brushless 12 volt fans off of a voltage adjustable Castle Creations 20 AMP BEC.
I'll be running 20 gauge to the fans and already did the 10 g from just outside the axles when I got the motor.
Tom
Samd
10 MW
A v2 Mxus? What volts and amps please litespeed?
kiwiev
100 kW
litespeed said:
That's a great idea I didn't even think about a RC esc good work
Cheers Kiwi
litespeed
100 kW
Samd said:
No it's a V1 running 100 volts x 22.5 amp pack running 75 amps max. Ebikes.ca says at full throttle it will never overheat and 63+ miles range.
Tom
litespeed
100 kW
kiwiev said:
It's actually a "battery eliminator circuit" that I'll run off of one of the three 8s15p packs I use on this bike.
Tom
kiwiev
100 kW
Oh how many amps they good for Tom?
Cheers Kiwi
Cheers Kiwi
Samd
10 MW
litespeed said:
The ebikes.ca sim is for a V2 motor but still even for a V1 6 turn, I am curious why you would bother adding fans then and risk dirt ingress?
I'm also thinking overheat = never. Even on a decent slope.
litespeed
100 kW
kiwiev said:
They put out 20 amps. http://www.castlecreations.com/products/ccbec.html I only use the BEC Pro version.
Tom
litespeed
100 kW
Samd said:
The reason I picked this motor over a speed wind was exactly that "overheat= never" but it does. Third set of halls going in it as I write.
I believe this is my best and only option for this motor that is already in a 17" rim with Shinko tire on it.
Tom
That's interesting litespeed. I would say it's the 6T actually not helping the heat issue there...they use thinner wires on the higher turn motor's so they can't take as much phase amps without overheating I believe.
Plugging your setup into the simulator it shows over 250NM of torque!!! That's insane! The bike must just want to flip constantly. :lol:
I made a bit more progress tonight.
Soldered my 36AWG temp wires on for the axle section.
I also soldered the 8AWG wire to the 12AWG just outside the axle.
I used the splice then wrap in copper wire method.
It might not be needed for power as much, but it will sure wick away some excess heat.
Cheers
Plugging your setup into the simulator it shows over 250NM of torque!!! That's insane! The bike must just want to flip constantly. :lol:
I made a bit more progress tonight.
Soldered my 36AWG temp wires on for the axle section.
I also soldered the 8AWG wire to the 12AWG just outside the axle.
I used the splice then wrap in copper wire method.
It might not be needed for power as much, but it will sure wick away some excess heat.
Cheers
newbiebiker
100 mW
what happen if we cross the water area or river ?
will it give shock.
will it give shock.
newbiebiker
100 mW
nice
you feel anything any extra torque or pulling power after adding this cooler to motor ?
you feel anything any extra torque or pulling power after adding this cooler to motor ?
No, that's not how this works. Cooling doesn't add power, but it allows more power to be applied (for more torque) without overheating if I want to.newbiebiker said:
I'm going to try 200 phase amps with my HS4080 once I get it up and running again. We'll see how hot it gets then.
Cheers
newbiebiker
100 mW
so we can pull more amp , so more torque, but due to cooling, it wont damage the motor even we can travel longer without any fuss..really a great improvement, must for hilly area commuters, as they need more torque in low speed.
is you fan wings are plastic or aluminium or other metal ..? because metal wings push more air compared to plastic light weight wings.
composite fan blades (carbon fiber) are under testing
http://www.gizmag.com/ge-fan-composite-ge9x/33611/
even we can travel longer without any fuss..really a great improvement, must for hilly area commuters, as they need more torque in low speed.is you fan wings are plastic or aluminium or other metal ..? because metal wings push more air compared to plastic light weight wings.
composite fan blades (carbon fiber) are under testing
http://www.gizmag.com/ge-fan-composite-ge9x/33611/
Fans are just plastic, but they do a very good job anyway. Over 5.1CFM per fan!
I suggest reading through the rest of this thread as it may answer a lot of your questions.
Cheers
I suggest reading through the rest of this thread as it may answer a lot of your questions.
Cheers
Made a bit more progress today...the hardest part IMO.
I had to squeeze all the wires into heatshrink, which is normally hard enough, but using these tiny thin 36AWG Teflon wires makes it like trying to sew with spaghetti!
That being said, I think if I hadn't used them, there's no way I would have fit everything.
I had to do the heat-shrink in sections as I had to stretch out heat-shrink that would have otherwise been too small to fit over everything. I slip the heatshrink over pliers and open them out to stretch it, so can only do so much at once. Using smaller diameter heatshrink also means it doesn't take up as much space which is needed for this setup.
I applied liberal amounts of this silicone grease to the axle shaft, wire recess and heatshrink exterior prior to slipping on the bearing. Without it, the bearing would rip through the heatshrink from the tight fit.
The bearing got very, very stuck at this point. I'm not sure why, but some carefully place blows with a hammer and screw driver on the inner race managed to push it all the way down.
Next on my to do list is soldering on all the connectors. Hopefully I can have everything up and running by next weekend.
Cheers
I had to squeeze all the wires into heatshrink, which is normally hard enough, but using these tiny thin 36AWG Teflon wires makes it like trying to sew with spaghetti!
That being said, I think if I hadn't used them, there's no way I would have fit everything.
I had to do the heat-shrink in sections as I had to stretch out heat-shrink that would have otherwise been too small to fit over everything. I slip the heatshrink over pliers and open them out to stretch it, so can only do so much at once. Using smaller diameter heatshrink also means it doesn't take up as much space which is needed for this setup.
I applied liberal amounts of this silicone grease to the axle shaft, wire recess and heatshrink exterior prior to slipping on the bearing. Without it, the bearing would rip through the heatshrink from the tight fit.
The bearing got very, very stuck at this point. I'm not sure why, but some carefully place blows with a hammer and screw driver on the inner race managed to push it all the way down.
Next on my to do list is soldering on all the connectors. Hopefully I can have everything up and running by next weekend.
Cheers
kiwiev
100 kW
Nice work Blake
Cheers Kiwi
Cheers Kiwi
I finally got this motor back up and running today.
After Kiwiev and I did the axle change over, I discovered it wasn't quite centered correctly...well at least not the same as the previous axle...and it resulted in the winding's on the freewheel side pressing up against the inside of the side cover once I tightened down both side covers. Needless to say, after all the effort myself and Kiwiev went to with this motor it was a bit devastating for it to potentially still be un-salvageable.
After 2 broken jacks, numerous squashed nuts, many hammer blows, one exploded bearing, one destroyed hole saw, and one very slightly bent axle, I finally got the axle to move through the stator that extra 3-4mm I needed. Don't ask me what half that stuff was used for...let's just say I get creative when I need to get something done and don't have the right tools available. :lol:
I also had to change out every hall sensor...somehow they had all died together...could have been from being squashed up against the side cover.
The motor still works well together with the fans and custom temp sensor. I'm reluctant to run the fans much on my stock 16S LifePo4 ~52V nominal battery though as one of them died last time and I think it's from the higher voltage. Fully charged the battery is 58.4V so I definitely can't run the fans when the bike's freshly charged, but after riding for a while the voltage drops and it's ok. Problem is, right now I have no display whatsoever, so have no idea what voltage I'm at...my Adaptto is on it's way back from Russia and should fix that soon enough.
It was really nice to see what an improvement my phase wire change made. Stock ohms is usually about 23-26, but my 12gauge through the axle to 8gauge just outside got it down to 17
These are the customized torque blocks Kiwiev made up for me. They should help prevent any future wheels falling out the back as well as go someway towards stopping axle play from Regen.
Cheers
After Kiwiev and I did the axle change over, I discovered it wasn't quite centered correctly...well at least not the same as the previous axle...and it resulted in the winding's on the freewheel side pressing up against the inside of the side cover once I tightened down both side covers. Needless to say, after all the effort myself and Kiwiev went to with this motor it was a bit devastating for it to potentially still be un-salvageable.
After 2 broken jacks, numerous squashed nuts, many hammer blows, one exploded bearing, one destroyed hole saw, and one very slightly bent axle, I finally got the axle to move through the stator that extra 3-4mm I needed. Don't ask me what half that stuff was used for...let's just say I get creative when I need to get something done and don't have the right tools available. :lol:
I also had to change out every hall sensor...somehow they had all died together...could have been from being squashed up against the side cover.
The motor still works well together with the fans and custom temp sensor. I'm reluctant to run the fans much on my stock 16S LifePo4 ~52V nominal battery though as one of them died last time and I think it's from the higher voltage. Fully charged the battery is 58.4V so I definitely can't run the fans when the bike's freshly charged, but after riding for a while the voltage drops and it's ok. Problem is, right now I have no display whatsoever, so have no idea what voltage I'm at...my Adaptto is on it's way back from Russia and should fix that soon enough.
It was really nice to see what an improvement my phase wire change made. Stock ohms is usually about 23-26, but my 12gauge through the axle to 8gauge just outside got it down to 17
These are the customized torque blocks Kiwiev made up for me. They should help prevent any future wheels falling out the back as well as go someway towards stopping axle play from Regen.
Cheers
Took the resurrected motor for a quick spin up a local hill this afternoon. It's a pretty steep rocky hill which I think I might do some testing on at some stage.
I hit 98C on the way up, but it very quickly cooled off to about 85C while I was still riding just before I reached the top.
Anyway, at the top I quickly shot this video to show the fans in action...keep in mind this was pretty much straight after I had found a spot to lean the bike, taken off my gloves, taken out my phone...and in that time it had already cooled down to 62.8C!
[youtube]d3j6vNMVIQw[/youtube]
Cheers
I hit 98C on the way up, but it very quickly cooled off to about 85C while I was still riding just before I reached the top.
Anyway, at the top I quickly shot this video to show the fans in action...keep in mind this was pretty much straight after I had found a spot to lean the bike, taken off my gloves, taken out my phone...and in that time it had already cooled down to 62.8C!
[youtube]d3j6vNMVIQw[/youtube]
Cheers
kiwiev
100 kW
Great work CD
It really seams to works great I only wish the manufacturers would take note
Cheers Kiwi
It really seams to works great I only wish the manufacturers would take note
Cheers Kiwi
BCTECH
1 kW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2014
- Messages
- 321
I have done all the small things like vanish, cover in black, added epoxy.
now the motor is brand new and its opened anyway. i am not sure if i should install fans for cooling or just drilling some holes now instead of later. problem is i don't know how hot this things can get stock?
now the motor is brand new and its opened anyway. i am not sure if i should install fans for cooling or just drilling some holes now instead of later. problem is i don't know how hot this things can get stock?
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If it wasn't too difficult for you to pop it open I'd wait to see what your temps look like. In the winter you may well be fine. Summer you're going to have lots more problems.
Drilling holes makes a huge difference in temps.
You could also always drill the holes and put tape over them and remove the tape if you need the cooling.
BCTECH, can you take a picture of the area where your temp probe is in? I'm curious to see where they put it in your motor.
Thanks.
Drilling holes makes a huge difference in temps.
You could also always drill the holes and put tape over them and remove the tape if you need the cooling.
BCTECH, can you take a picture of the area where your temp probe is in? I'm curious to see where they put it in your motor.
Thanks.
BCTECH
1 kW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2014
- Messages
- 321
Offroader said:
its a bit tricky to open first time, but guess not hard afterwards. seems most people have heat problem on stock set up, drilling holes might be first step.
how big the hole and how many is good to try?
should be many small holes like 3mm location around the windings?
temp probe is here:
I put tons of epoxy to seal up the temp probe and hall sensors. Also there are one set of backup halls. I assume i am pretty safe for now
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