Csc rear hub 1500w noises

DaPs166

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Hello,

I have a freewheel rear hub csc 1500w motor . After a couple of rides(less than 50 miles) I can hear what sounds like something loose inside, which when you turn the wheel, it rattles as it’s falling back to the bottom. I have a feeling it’s bearings.

Also, when I’m riding, I can hear another noise, which I suspect is the brake disk scraping the caliper, but would like confirmation of it!

I’ll attach videos to this thread below so you can hear.

Thanks for any help.


 
Is it running well otherwise? There's not much inside a direct drive motor that can cause noise, except for magnets coming loose. Was the motor under a lot of load during those 50 miles, or just flat ground riding?
Yes it runs fine. I had a slight wobble but that was due to loose spokes, which I fixed today.

I’ve now done about 100 miles commuting to work, 5 miles each way and 99% of it is completely flat with some bumps(it’s a canal towpath) with 2 little hills that take about 3 seconds to climb.
 
Do you think it may be magnets? If so is it going to kill the motor quickly?

Regarding the second noise, do you reckon it’s the disk rubbing the caliper? It doesn’t make the sound when I’m not sitting on it, only with that pressure when riding.
 
. After a couple of rides(less than 50 miles) I can hear what sounds like something loose inside, which when you turn the wheel, it rattles as it’s falling back to the bottom. I have a feeling it’s bearings.
Most commonly that's a spoke nipple or other debris loose inside the rim.

Sometimes it's an extra one that got lost inside during assembly.

Sometimes it's one that didnt' get tightened so fell off the spoke.

Sometimes it's one that got overtighened and broke the flange off the nipple, and that's what's loose in the rim.

Sometimes it's one taht came off the spoke *despite* being tightened because the rim is damaged at the nipple holes, loosening all the spokes and letting nipples unscrew. (when this happens it's usually because of the too-thick spokes most hubmotor wheels are built with, so tensioning them correctly is too much tension for the rim which then fails). If you had other loose spokes then this is a strong possibility. If they loosen again later, then it is very likely the rim is damaged and will need to be replaced, at which time you can also replace the spokes with ones appropriately sized for the rim you use. (normally 14-15g single-butted spokes, if you have to you can use 13-14g single butted spokes, but don't go thicker (most wheels with this problem use 12g or thicker and that's what breaks rims).





Also, when I’m riding, I can hear another noise, which I suspect is the brake disk scraping the caliper, but would like confirmation of it!

You can verify that by simply looking at the rotor in the pads as you spin the wheel with the bike upside down. If you don't see any contact, you can remove one of the caliper-mounting bolts and rotate it out of the way off the rotor.
If the noise stops then it's just a bent rotor (which you can look up how to straighten, and how to adjust your pads, etc).
If it doesn't stop it's not related to the brakes unless you can see the rotor rubbing on the frame.
 
Most commonly that's a spoke nipple or other debris loose inside the rim.

Sometimes it's an extra one that got lost inside during assembly.

Sometimes it's one that didnt' get tightened so fell off the spoke.

Sometimes it's one that got overtighened and broke the flange off the nipple, and that's what's loose in the rim.

Sometimes it's one taht came off the spoke *despite* being tightened because the rim is damaged at the nipple holes, loosening all the spokes and letting nipples unscrew. (when this happens it's usually because of the too-thick spokes most hubmotor wheels are built with, so tensioning them correctly is too much tension for the rim which then fails). If you had other loose spokes then this is a strong possibility. If they loosen again later, then it is very likely the rim is damaged and will need to be replaced, at which time you can also replace the spokes with ones appropriately sized for the rim you use. (normally 14-15g single-butted spokes, if you have to you can use 13-14g single butted spokes, but don't go thicker (most wheels with this problem use 12g or thicker and that's what breaks rims).







You can verify that by simply looking at the rotor in the pads as you spin the wheel with the bike upside down. If you don't see any contact, you can remove one of the caliper-mounting bolts and rotate it out of the way off the rotor.
If the noise stops then it's just a bent rotor (which you can look up how to straighten, and how to adjust your pads, etc).
If it doesn't stop it's not related to the brakes unless you can see the rotor rubbing on the frame.
You legend! One of the spoke nipples is missing and I didn’t connect that to being inside the rim, I thought how could it fall off 😅.

I’ll sort that out and hopefully I won’t have to mess around re mounting the motor to a new rim. That would be annoying!

Also I’ll adjust the caliper and see if that stops the other noise!

Thanks for the great advice.
 
Most commonly that's a spoke nipple or other debris loose inside the rim.

Sometimes it's an extra one that got lost inside during assembly.

Sometimes it's one that didnt' get tightened so fell off the spoke.

Sometimes it's one that got overtighened and broke the flange off the nipple, and that's what's loose in the rim.

Sometimes it's one taht came off the spoke *despite* being tightened because the rim is damaged at the nipple holes, loosening all the spokes and letting nipples unscrew. (when this happens it's usually because of the too-thick spokes most hubmotor wheels are built with, so tensioning them correctly is too much tension for the rim which then fails). If you had other loose spokes then this is a strong possibility. If they loosen again later, then it is very likely the rim is damaged and will need to be replaced, at which time you can also replace the spokes with ones appropriately sized for the rim you use. (normally 14-15g single-butted spokes, if you have to you can use 13-14g single butted spokes, but don't go thicker (most wheels with this problem use 12g or thicker and that's what breaks rims).
:bigthumb:This one was so good, I created a whole new section to store a link to it. I was surprised that it's that common too.
 
:bigthumb:This one was so good, I created a whole new section to store a link to it. I was surprised that it's that common too.
I've seen every one of those things happen myself, with prebuilt hubmotor wheels. :(

Also plenty of them posted about here on the forum, even though many of the people with them denied that the problems were caused by the too-thick spokes. :roll:

I think I had three of them in one wheel alone, one of the Fusin hubmotors. May have been only two....probably docucment d in the DayGlo Avenger thread, or if ti was the newer Fusin it'd be in teh Fusin Test Bike / review thread. At least some happened to a Crystalyte motor on CrazyBike2's rear wheel. I don't recall all the different motor wheels I've dealt with fixing....pretty much all of them because of the 12g spokes used on rims not strong enough for them.

But I don't have those problems with the wheels built using the right spokes (13g at the largest, less where possible), even on the back of the heavy heavy-cargo trike SB Cruiser. (the only wheel failure there was yet another prebuilt hubmotor wheel that I didn't build or tune). Even loads heavy enough to break axles when hitting potholes, or crush rim walls, didn't break the spokes or cause a wheel failure.
 
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