Custom frame for the Cyclone Coaxial motor
- Thread starter Chambers
- Start date
markz
100 TW
How long will that freewheel last, and if the freewheel is replaceable how much will it cost?
I would change that pedal freewheel, it usually goes bad pretty quickly (locks up). Even DNP from aliexpress is a step up (not a big one).
600$ to repair it sounds like robbery, I would get a quote from another welder repair shop. If that is also expensive, I would sell the welder for parts on ebay or something.
600$ to repair it sounds like robbery, I would get a quote from another welder repair shop. If that is also expensive, I would sell the welder for parts on ebay or something.
Chambers said:Yeah, that's the vague plan. It's expensive because the welder only has 1 PCB with everything direct soldered to it so the only way to fix it is to replace the whole board.
I think people like to say things when it brings them money that aren't strictly true. People change micro components on macbooks, even where the conact pads get nuked like probably in your case, by finding the other end of trace and routing a wire from the source of the trace.
And they do this every day.
Fair point Tommm, to be honest I don't know enough about it to fix it myself and if I do a dodgy repair and it burns my house down the insurance company wont be happy :lol: (yes I know a battery fire would net the same result but I don't have to charge my e-bike inside)Tommm said:Chambers said:Yeah, that's the vague plan. It's expensive because the welder only has 1 PCB with everything direct soldered to it so the only way to fix it is to replace the whole board
I think people like to say things when it brings them money that aren't strictly true. People change micro components on macbooks, even where the conact pads get nuked like probably in your case, by finding the other end of trace and routing a wire from the source of the trace.
And they do this every day.
I'll probably put it up for sale as 'needs repairs' for fairly cheap and see if I get any bites - If I don't I'll just foot the bill and then sell it as I'll have another welder by then. In working condition its probably worth about $1400 ($1900 new) so at least I'll get something out of it.
Working on a new swing-arm - It's half built at this stage, I shot a few short video clips during the process that I'll post at some point. I was/am trying to point out that you don't need any flashy CAD software or tools to build something like this if you're creative - in fact sometimes those things can be a hindrance.
So I got a bit more work done on the new swing-arm (still need to skin the inside and make the dropouts etc.) ...BUT.... I don't think I like it 
it just seems visually too bulky even though it's fairly light weight.... I'll think on it for a few days but I might be making another one by the end of the week 
it just seems visually too bulky even though it's fairly light weight.... I'll think on it for a few days but I might be making another one by the end of the week 
It looks fine to me. Ok great, keep going. Once you put the motor and wheels on it will all balance out. As I say it’s function first, but barely. It still should not be ugly but hey I think we as builders would have to try hard to make an ugly Ebike. Ugly and non functional or something we know better like a friction drive would be a epic fail. It looks like you’ve invested a fair amount of time in the bike frame design and it’s construction so I’d keep it up. You banged out that swingarm and you may see more to “improve” once you get the bike going. You might kick yourself to do a visual improvement when a functional one may or may not be also needed. Improving more than one aspect of the swingarm would make it more worth the changes, just visual, I’d set that aside for now.
Chambers said:
Chances are, if you make the perfect looking suspension before you ride it, it won't ride perfect and you will have to make a new one anyway. Just get the boy rolling, even if not on battery power.
Where are you with the controller and battery? Just asked nucular, they said they are switching case manufacturer so 3 month delay across the board... If you haven't already I would get a small and simple controller to get it going (like yuyangking 50-60a).
Tommm said:
More nucular delays
- Yeah I have a YYK 50JG controller to get started.Batteries are still on the savings list as shipping to Australia is ridiculously expensive - Hoping to have it rolling under pedal power by the end of the month.
OK so a couple of little mods to the swing-arm (still not complete) lug added and lug mounting point modded a little (now it's flatter). 
Also working on the top mounting point for the shock..
The three holes in the centre will be a cutout 
The white-out markings are areas still to be cut - white-out is great on raw steel if your not too worried about perfect accuracy 
The rear shock top-mount is likely to be the weakest point for the rear end so I have made it over-sized - meaning I can put a longer weld onto the top tube, I will weld it in small sections at a time so I don't build the heat up too much - the most likely failure point will be the 'heat affected zone' (H.A.Z) and as i'm welding thick (3-mm) to thin (1.2-mm) there is some danger there of excess heat.... I'm not worried just FYI in case anyone was curious.
Also working on the top mounting point for the shock..
The three holes in the centre will be a cutout The white-out markings are areas still to be cut - white-out is great on raw steel if your not too worried about perfect accuracy The rear shock top-mount is likely to be the weakest point for the rear end so I have made it over-sized - meaning I can put a longer weld onto the top tube, I will weld it in small sections at a time so I don't build the heat up too much - the most likely failure point will be the 'heat affected zone' (H.A.Z) and as i'm welding thick (3-mm) to thin (1.2-mm) there is some danger there of excess heat.... I'm not worried just FYI in case anyone was curious.
Looking good.
Did you use electrical conduit or emt? I’m thinking so because of your video of removing the galvanized coating with vinegar. I’ve seen excessively long chopper forks made with it but it was the thick “rigid” 1/8” stuff. It looks like you welded sections to create the miters and did not bend them, am I right? That’s fine, there’s an art to tube bending, welding and grinding is just as good.
One more question did you have to ask for the left hand drive from cyclone? I don’t see it on the new website. I’m not ready now but I hope it continues to be available. I’d probably start with a Honda grom frame $130 ish and free shipping. The Taiwan stuff is of amazing quality.
Did you use electrical conduit or emt? I’m thinking so because of your video of removing the galvanized coating with vinegar. I’ve seen excessively long chopper forks made with it but it was the thick “rigid” 1/8” stuff. It looks like you welded sections to create the miters and did not bend them, am I right? That’s fine, there’s an art to tube bending, welding and grinding is just as good.
One more question did you have to ask for the left hand drive from cyclone? I don’t see it on the new website. I’m not ready now but I hope it continues to be available. I’d probably start with a Honda grom frame $130 ish and free shipping. The Taiwan stuff is of amazing quality.
Yes electrical conduit - this was more of a proof of concept for me so I just did it the quick way - I'll be making a tube bender this weekend to build a proper version. Should be plenty strong once it's trellisedSkaiwerd said:
Yes I asked specifically for it, from memory it was the same price - I started thinking down the Grom/pitbike route kinda like the motoped but in the end designed this - still think there is some opportunity there to build something cool. If your interested I have all the drawings from the gas powered motoped somewhere on fileSkaiwerd said:
Edit: here is a link to download them http://motopeds.com/drawings/
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