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Cute 100 Q100C CST Cassette Hub Motor for Lightweight Builds

10aH LiFePO4 is not particularly strong. Normally, you can solder the shunt in the controller to get more current. You don't have to get a bigger one. Unfortunately your battery will struggle to provide the increased current, so you need a new battery if you want more power.
 
Ok thanks again for the info. Where do source your batteries from?
 
I make packs from Zippy or Turnigy Lipo from Hobbyking.com but some would be worried about safety with these pouches, although I have not had a problem yet.

ebikes.ca (who runs this forum - thanks Justin!) has quality reliable safe packs they get custom made.
 
Hi All,
I have a Q100R (rear, freewheel version) on order from GBK. I build my own wheels and want to order some good spokes asap so I can get to wheelbuilding quickly. Can someone please tell me what the relevant measurements of the Q100 are please.
I'll need:
- spoke hole size (I presume 2mm)
- flange radius (between opposite spoke holes)
- flange to flange width (measured centre to centre)
- flange offsets.
I think the O.L.D is 135mm but maybe someone could also confirm that for me please.

I looked for this information online without success. Is there a table or data base somewhere?

I'll be building this into a 20" rim. Would the list recommend radial spoking or 2 cross, maybe in groups of 4? Radial is so simple bit will it be OK on a read wheels that will also see lots of pedaling?

thanks,

Savvas.
 
bmsbattery.com has the hub motor measurements on their site. That's where I ordered mine from. ebikes.ca (this forum host) has a rim to hub to cross pattern spoke calculate you can use on their site. Then you need to order the correct length spokes online or have them cut to size somewhere. ebikes.ca can custom cut and ship them to you.
 
The PCD of the spoke holes is 108mm. Flanges 33.5mm and 13.5mm from centre. 13g spokes is standard. I've built one with 14g too.

BMSBattery have a nice range of batteries, some with a a high discharge rate.
 
Zukster, Do you use a BMS on your battery packs or do you rely on the low voltage cut out on the controller?
 
esp said:
Zukster, Do you use a BMS on your battery packs or do you rely on the low voltage cut out on the controller?

Both. If I can get a controller that will do it - that is my preference. Then I make sure my battery pack is always balanced and balance charge it every time. I've been trying Lyen's 6 FET controller (search this forum), but the current models do not work with the Q100 or Q100C. His next batch of boards due to be received at the end of this month has new firmware to make them compatible. I'll be using one of these then.

So for a 14S pack, I'll probably use 3.5V as a cell level LVC. 3.5Vx14 = 49V pack/controller LVC. So the battery will have from full charge 4.2Vx14S = 58.8V to 49V to run. If the pack is slightly unbalanced, the idea of using 3.5 is to give some room for error. When a cell drops below 3.6, there is very little energy left in it anyway, so if one cell is 3.5, another could already be way lower because of this. I don't want to use something like 3.2V as cell level LVC, and then have some cells sagging below 3.0V before the controller level LVC works. I have yet to play around with this but I'm thinking 3.5V as a cell level LVC base will work. I will probably make a new thread when I have more into to share.

I don't recommend 14S Lipo on the Cute 100 necessarily. I keep an eye on my motor. 13S (48V nominal) and lower seems pretty safe in general. My son and his friend have these BMS integrated 48V waterbottle batteries going on about a year now with no problems. They are fairly water resistant too but need to be out for a few hours in a real soaker too before I can comment on that more:

http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=279

I'm also testing one of bmsbattery.com's smart BMS,

http://www.bmsbattery.com/smart/330-lifepo4lithium-ion-smart-bms-for-513-cells-in-series.html

At 20 bucks and ordered according to your specs, I was surprised when it worked okay for a couple of rides tested down to the cut-off. Then it started cutting out on bumps - so it probably the wiring. Its a lot of wiring to have to do yourself - not for the faint of heart.
 
d8veh said:
The PCD of the spoke holes is 108mm. Flanges 33.5mm and 13.5mm from centre. 13g spokes is standard. I've built one with 14g too.

BMSBattery have a nice range of batteries, some with a a high discharge rate.

Thanks Zukster, d8veh and others,

I eventually found the pdf at the BMS site which seems to list the hub measurements. I'm afraid I missed the post above (which details the offsets) before I ordered the spokes. However the ebikes.ca calculator and advice page suggests that it will be sufficient to simply increase half the spokes by 1mm and decrease the other half by the same amount. That's what I've ordered - we'll see how it goes. I'm using an amazing self-centering wheel building jig built by a friend of mine. Hopefully it will cope with the Q100's axle diameter. If it doesn't fit I'll have to use the old flat-on-the-lap wheel building technique! Works pretty well I've found with small wheels...

Thanks for your help folks,

Savvas.
 
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