I substitute the EZEE motors and adjust the throttle settings so they have the same no-load speed numbers;
Ezee 20"-good match for Q100, 328
Ezee 26"-reduce throttle setting to 92% to match 201. Reducing throttle setting works well for slow winds, as they are rpm limited, but does not work well with fast winds as they are power limited.
Ezee 26"-good match for a MXUS @ 100% throttle.
Because they become Power limited, fast wound mini's behave in a unique way out in the real world. I tried to explain the effect to another poster;
"If I run a "201"[really 230 rpm] slow wind in my MTB with 24" wheel and 48V and low Amps, say 15, the top speed will be, say, 21 mph. It doesn't really vary much because the motor is at it's max rpm for that voltage. it just doesn't want to spin faster.
But if I use a 328[270 rpm] fast wind in the same bike, wheel battery and controller, the top speed might be the same, not because it's up against the rpm limit, but because the POWER limit has been reached[especially with my big butt on the bike]. But if the slightest thing changes, a 1 mph tail wind, a .05% downhill grade or if I simply skipped breakfast, the speed can go up quite a bit, maybe 23, 24 mph or higher. I've actually had the bike up over 30 mph on a downhill and my Cycle Analyst was telling me the motor was still trying to put power into the load[200 Watts]. Now that is a much wider spread than one would expect for the 40 rpm difference in 36V no-load speeds, so the difference in the rpm "spread" in not linear. The other ting is, the fast wind likes the Amps and if your controller can give some extra, you can get some more speed by current alone.
And the fast wind can still take off and climb pretty good, up to[or down to, I should say]a point. For my fast wind on the steepest hill around me, that point is about 12 mph. At that speed, it's just dying and if I hold the throttle, it would burn up.
But the slow wind will keep climbing at that speed. So, if I had to climb that hill everyday and didn't want to get off and push, I would need the slow wind, even though I like the |wider spread" of speed ranges the fast wind offers.
Now, if variables more favorable to the fast wind are in the mix, like if the rider was 100 lb.s lighter than me or a smaller wheel was used, his hill is less steep or if the rider simply has really good karma, the fast wind can offer the elements of a "free ride". As long as the rider doesn't get down into the "chuggy" range.
I suspect this is what you enjoying as to how your fast wind is performing compared to the slow wind.
This is not very scientific and I'm over-generalizing, but I'm just trying to explain my observations."
You are now wanting more out of the Q100 than it is capable. Going fast wind to get 40 Kph and trying to retrive some climbing ability b y pushing up the Amps is a melt-down waiting to happen, especially in an enviourment like Singapore.
Time to think about building in some reserve, like dual Q100's or the MXUS, which will take considerably more power.
Whichever way you go, think rear drive since you are going to replace your cassette. You could use the 7-speed, 11T DNP instead. Especially if you went with the MXUS[emissionsfree.com). I have a frt. MXUS running on a Lyen Mini-Monster controller[22 A]and even in a 24" wheel and a heavier rider, it wants to spin if a jab the throttle, even on dry pavement, let alone in the wet/hill.
Read my link below for my experiences with dual Q100's and the MXUS.
