Dashcam car 18650 bms battery DIY charge with car battery.

JimHoork

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Hello, my name is Jim and i am new on this forum!

I have a question about a Li-Ion battery pack for my dascams in the car that i want to charge with my car battery.

I will make a 18650 battery pack with 12 cels, every 3 in parallel. So i have a nominale voltage of 11,2V. (1 cell=3,7V). Fot this i need a 3-cell BMS. When i have solder this batterys and BMS together i am able to charge and discharge the battery via the BMS load cables.


1. Can i set the lead battery (car battery) permenent to the BMS load cables to charge the Li-ion battery?
2. How can i prevent that my car battery protected for low voltage?
3. Are there more things to take into account?

I will look forward to your reply! :wink:

Jim
 
I'd recommend 4S to prevent an overcharge. Some alternators run at 14V...

I think LiFePO4 would be better, but if you have a lot of 18650 cells, I certainly understand why that would be handy.
 
Wouldn’t it be easier to just connect to the car battery somehow? What do you need the extra battery for?
 
JimHoork said:
I will make a 18650 battery pack with 12 cels, every 3 in parallel. So i have a nominale voltage of 11,2V. (1 cell=3,7V).
if you use 12 cells, and using them in sets of 3p (3 parallel), then you are using them in 4s (4 series), so your nominal voltage will be 14.8v.

Fot this i need a 3-cell BMS.
you will need a 4-cell bms.


1. Can i set the lead battery (car battery) permenent to the BMS load cables to charge the Li-ion battery?
the car battery would go to the bms charge cables, not the load (discharge) cables.

2. How can i prevent that my car battery protected for low voltage?
don't connect to the car battery.

connect to the car's protected accessory point, so it is not connected to the car battery except when you have the key in and turned on.

otherwise there's no simple way, you would have to design or find a voltage protection circuit (basically a bms) that monitors just one "12v" cell, and shuts off it's output when that cell (the car battery) reaches your preferred cutoff voltage. probably 12v or above). then the charge port of your li-ion bms connects to the output of that bms.



3. Are there more things to take into account?
how much power does your dashcam use, continously?

how long does it need to operate on this li-ion battery?

those will determine how big (how many cells) your li-ion battery must have, and of what type and capacity.

if you don't know how much power the system needs over time, then your proposed battery may not be big enough to run the system as long as you need it to; it might shut off when you need it.
 
get a buck converter less then 5 dollars and just place that between your lead battery and li-ion. Set it to 12.6 volts, when the car is running producing 14.4 volts, the buck converter lowers the charge voltage to 12.6 volts and protects from surges, theres no way to overcharge the li-ion since the buck converter will reduce the amps the closer the battery gets to 12.6 volts (plus you also have the bms to protect the battery).

When the engine is off the lead acid battery will drop to 12.7 volts, too low for the buck converter to charge the battery. no load power usage of buck converter is about 20ma as per specs.

buck converter 732v to 128v.jpg
 
electric_nz said:
Wouldn’t it be easier to just connect to the car battery somehow? What do you need the extra battery for?
Yes, powered from the acessory socket as they normally are..
BUT, i suspect the OP wants to leave the Dashcam “active” when the car is parked for long periods ?
...and doesnt want to drain the car battery ?
 
Thank you at first for al the helfun reactions! :D In my reaction i apply al the feedback information of you helping info.



how much power does your dashcam use, continously?
The system I want to install is an ''blackvue dr900s-2ch''. If I look at the specs it uses max 1 amp/hour. But i have 2 2CH systems to profide my car with fout camera's (front, rear, left and right. So 2 amp/hour

how long does it need to operate on this li-ion battery?
When I park my car (no charge power) I leave it for example shut down for two or three days. That is already 62 hours 124 amps if we go out that the car uses his maximum power. But the camara i thing is nominale running at 50% of the max power in parking mode. He will recording when something is moving. So lets say 1A for the hole system in one hour.

Those will determine how big (how many cells) your li-ion battery must have, and of what type and capacity.
Yes, that right. If I want park my car easily for three days and I make a battery of 14,8V, I need 100 cells for 75A (single battery 3,7V 3A). That is also an option for me to provide power over the days. But in the first instance it was for me not to drain my car battery too much, so a small external battery could be useful to extend the capacity. But maybe one big external battery is better.

So, if I buy 100 cells, set four in series and 25 rows in parallel, I create an 14,8V 75A Li-Ion battery. I apply an BMS 4 cells to the battery. Than to give power to the camera system I need 12V of power. So than I can add an ''buck converter'' (jonyjoe303) en lower the voltage to 12V for the load. Than finally I was thinking what is better: power up the battery on the idea of jonyjoe303 and set-up a ''buck converter'' to charge or the same installation but with the charge cables on the car's protected accessory point. But then the question is I thing is the protected accessory point gives enough power to charge a 75A battery?

Is this i good setup you think, am I missing something?

Links:
BMS:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000425316662.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.70fd6643SgPJdG&algo_pvid=0f389348-cdc4-4d93-8f5c-ab932ebfdb8f&algo_expid=0f389348-cdc4-4d93-8f5c-ab932ebfdb8f-0&btsid=0b0a119a15815469073306951ef4b5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Bat 18650
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32835679557.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1672c2f9mR9R0W&algo_pvid=cb35a163-6c46-4346-a793-e78e3e707993&algo_expid=cb35a163-6c46-4346-a793-e78e3e707993-2&btsid=0b0a0ae215815455978731661e2b26&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Buck converter
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33039877799.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.64c97ea2UPAvDl&algo_pvid=8c5bfac1-1e2b-425d-9c81-1630fe705971&algo_expid=8c5bfac1-1e2b-425d-9c81-1630fe705971-11&btsid=0b0a0ad815815483163316849e2e6e&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Camara system Blackvue DR900S 2CH
https://www.amazon.de/Blackvue-DR900S-2CH-Autokamera-Dashcam-Dash-Cam/dp/B07CGBPJMM/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2QG324PWDKNBE&keywords=blackvue+dr900s-2ch&qid=1581548425&sprefix=blackvue%2Caps%2C981&sr=8-1
 
Something is not right with this power requirement ?
As an example ..
...i have a wireless WiFi, HD, motion detect , video recording ,..security camera on my house. ( cheap, $50.0)
It is powered from a single 3.8v ,2.5Ah , 18650 battery ...and it will last for several weeks (6+) without recharging.
I find it hard to believe this Dashcam requires so much power and battery ?
 
JimHoork said:
But then the question is I thing is the protected accessory point gives enough power to charge a 75A

Good question.

_20200213_094713.JPG

The cameras consume about 2x ~400mA@12V. Over 3 days, that is quite a bit of energy (~720Wh). If you want to recharge it in a reasonable time (say a 1 hour drive), then you need to 720W = 60A @12V. In my understanding, that's way way more than you can supply through an accessory socket.

So then the practicality of a self-sufficient stand-alone system becomes more difficult to achieve. You need a bulky battery pack, a bulky charger, bulky wiring to the vehicle battery, switched via ignition.
 
JimHoork said:
When I park my car (no charge power) I leave it for example shut down for two or three days. That is already 62 hours 124 amps if we go out that the car uses his maximum power. But the camara i thing is nominale running at 50% of the max power in parking mode. He will recording when something is moving. So lets say 1A for the hole system in one hour.
so average case usage of 62ah...but potentially 124ah.


If I want park my car easily for three days and I make a battery of 14,8V, I need 100 cells for 75A (single battery 3,7V 3A).
it's more complicated than that.

if you use "3ah" cells, that assumes charging htem all the way up to their max voltage (usually 4.2v) down to their min voltage (usually around 2.8v).

but you wont' be doing that, if you're using 4s and only charging up to whatever the max voltage that comes out of your alternator, when the car is running.

4s, fully charged, is 16.8v, for 4.2v cells. if the alternator goes to 14v, or be generous and say 14.5v, divided by four cells in series, is only 3.625v, so not even 50% charged for many of these cells. assuming you then do use a bms that will allow them to run down to completely empty, you get, at best, half the capacity of the cells. meaning, you only get 1.5ah per cell. so if you need 62ah average, divide 62 by 1.5, and you get 42 (rounded up), meaning 42 cells in parallel. multiply by four, for the four series you need for the voltage, and that's 168 cells, for an average usage 62ah.


now, if you use a boost charger of some type, you could fully charge a 4s pack, and only need half the number of cells vs the above situation.

or, use a buck charger of some type, and use a 3s pack...but then you may need a boost converter on the pack output to be able to use the whole pack capacity for the camera system.




the pack sizes above don't account for pack aging, or higher than average usage, or any other adverse condition that causes the system to need more capacity than you have, that means the cameras might power off before you want them to.

generally, just to account for pack aging, i would recommend adding at least 20-25% more capacity than you calculate for, so that at the end of up to a few years you still have enough capacity to run the system as long as originally designed. if you do that, i think you need about 212 cells.




Than to give power to the camera system I need 12V of power. So than I can add an ''buck converter'' (jonyjoe303) en lower the voltage to 12V for the load.
you should check the specs for the camera system, but if it si made for automotive use, it's designed to handle a range of probably 10v to 13v at least, and probably as high as 15v. but you should check the specs first.

if you do have to use a dc-dc converter, keep in mind that they aren't 100% efficient. so you need a bigger battery by whatever percentage the converter wastes power, to get the same runtime with the converter that you'd get without it.



i'm a bit on the tired side right now, so you should check my math below.

Than finally I was thinking what is better: power up the battery on the idea of jonyjoe303 and set-up a ''buck converter'' to charge or the same installation but with the charge cables on the car's protected accessory point. But then the question is I thing is the protected accessory point gives enough power to charge a 75A battery?
a slower charge can be better for cell longevity, but if you use a charger system that only allows half the cell capacity in a, or less, per parallel cell, it would take a little more than two hours (or more) to charge the pack. if you need the pack to charge faster, it dpeends on the cells you choose for the max rate. with typical cells, you might be able to do as fast as half an hour charge (at twice the cell capacity in a, times the number of parallel cells).

that's assuming you're charging to the full voltage of the cell. if instead you only charge to the voltage the alternator gets, the charging will take less time.

if the pack is say, a 124ah pack (assuming you're using only 62ah of it), then you could charge it in say, 15-20 minutes, but taht would be at almost 250a.


what kind of charger you should use...that i don't know. i think that you probably could use just the accessory point...except that if you need that much charge current, you can't--you *would* have to connect directly to the car battery. high currents make things complex. :(

it also means you couldn't charge thru the bms itself, or else you'll need a heck of a bms to handle that kind of charging current--much much bigger than you actually need for the load itself.


someone else hopefully will re-run my numbers to see if this is correct, and help you figure out a solution....
 
Hillhater said:
Can anyone suggest why these dashcams would use 1000+ times the power consumption than my wireless, wifi security cameras ? :eek:
yes.

dashcams encode a high bitrate datastream into H264+ at full hd or even higher.

your cam does basically zero compression and only takes snapshots every couple seconds when in operation. once you start active viewing or start recording you will burn tru your battery capacity in no time. if the datasheet even mention the actual recording time its usually pretty short. 99% of the time it spends in standby mode. and if it needs to record it usually does so in the much less cpu heavy mpeg standard.
 
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