Design choices for an Aprilia Pegaso 650 EV conversion

med5389

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Hello EV Bikers, and happy new 2022 :)

I am new to the forum so please excuse me if I chose the wrong area for the topic. I am designing an Aprilia Pegaso (1997 to 2000 model) EV conversion. This would be my first EV conversion. I have automotive engineering background but I'm not an EV specialist. I read a few books on the subject in order to get some sort of clear design in mind and avoid reengineering things or reordering parts mid-project, which would be a waste of time and money. Here's what I have in mind : Get a 650 Pegaso (something I know) with good enough plastics, suspension,frame and no rust, tear most of it down, stick an electric motor instead and fill in the gaps with as much lithium cylindrical cells as I can (air box under the seat, inside the mufflers..) while keeping the weight close to stock and the center of gravity as low as possible. I'm aiming for a riding experience not too far from stock (37 Kw/60 Nm). Here are the design choices that I am struggling with :

1) Motor type to choose :

It will be either DC brushless or AC induction. I don't have a full understanding of how either of them will behave but here's what I have found so far :

Price : The AC motor is generally cheaper (no magnets) but the controller is more complicated, and therefore more expensive -> AC vs DC motor/controller combinations would be close enough. So price is not going to be a main deciding factor.

Controllability/behavior : DC has more torque off the line and more peak efficiency, but AC can be better for a performance application, if coupled with the right controller/software. AC can also have a better overall efficiency (https://www.tesla.com/blog/induction-versus-dc-brushless-motors). I would prefer to keep the power and torque curve profiles similar to an ICE : Something like a big KTM V-twin profile with peak figures close to stock (37 Kw/60 Nm). I wouldn't mind getting a little more torque since it is electric, but I want smooth acceleration and predictability around corners, again, not a completely different experience from an ICE. A high revving motor would be preferred, let's say 5000 rpm at least. You get the picture, it's a motorcycle trying to be electric, not an electric vehicle trying to be a motorcycle.


Braking regeneration : Apparently AC induction is easier to operate in generator mode and I could get more regeneration in lower speeds with it, apparently!

I am leaning towards AC according to what I read so far, but it's not yet backed by equations and figures or any type of experience.

2) Keep the gearbox or get rid of it :

This is a tricky one.. Here's how I see it : Transmittions increase the dynamic usability, and therefore efficiency, of any motor/engine, that said, ICE can't run without them, but electric motors can operate on a much wider range, and here it gets almost subjective. Big companies have to go about this with different constraints in mind, supply, cost... Tesla and zero went without one, Porsche and Brammo went with one, all for different but understandable reasons. In my case, the whole transmission is already there, if it gives me a 10% efficiency overall I'm up for using it, plus, engine braking is fun (assuming it won't be a huge headache to calibrate the controller for it). From what I saw, 5 gears are not really necessary with any electric powertrain, so I'm thinking maybe it would make sense to use first, third and fifth. I'm leaning towards keeping the gears and getting a smaller motor/controller set up for a better efficiency and less cost. I saw online someone who cut off the upper half of an engine and stuck an electric motor to the timing chain, not a bad idea ! Obviously in my case I would probably have to reinforce the timing sprocket and go with a bigger chain, it would need some work, but if the result is worth it in terms of efficiency and riding fun, definitely doable. Internet says chain drive efficiency is 98%, with two chains in the setup I'd be around 96%, right at where the best designed belts are.

One more thing, the plan is to use the bike as it was intended stock, so commuting, highway speeds and light off-roading. So a 150 km/h (93 Mph) top speed would be nice, maximum range is a priority, while keeping the weight from messing with the handling. There are no plans to touch the suspension, except adjustments within stock parameters.

So, what do you guys think ? Did I get something wrong ? Is it too ambitious ? what range can I hope for here ? Did any of you consider keeping the gearbox on a conversion ? What were your reasons either way ?
Did anyone have experience setting up an electric power-train ? AC induction or Brushless DC for what I'm aiming for ? Any open source tools I can use for the controller Hardware/Software set up and calibration ?
Any readings/ressources you can recommend moving forward ?

Thanks for taking the time to read through all of it !! And ride safe :) !
 
I think keeping the ice engine and driving it trough the timing chain sounds like a bad idea for several reasons.

*You probably need an oil pump to have oil pressure on the main bearings, but as it is single cylinder it might have ball bearings. So maybe not necessary in that case.
*When removing the piston and rod the crankshaft will probably be a lot out of balance.
*The gearing will be a bad match for an electric motor with 1/3 of the rpm and 3 times the torque.
*It will be a heavy and bulky solution that will take a lot of the room you need for batteries etc.

If you can keep just the transmission and change the primary reduction to something more suitable it might work.

I dont think I have seen anyone using an induction motor on a motorcycle, is there any specific motors you have been looking at?
 
Thanks for you input ! You make fair points.

Since I am leaning toward keeping the transmission, using the timing chain, more specifically its opening seemed like a good packaging solution to avoid reengineering the whole block to fit the electric motor inside (assuming it would fit in the crankshaft's place, which is highly unlikely). I thought I would take out the piston rod and what's above, make a plate to close where the cylinder was and use it as a base to fix the electric motor and keep some of the oil in for the transmission and the bearings. The crankshaft would definitely need to be modified to take out the balancing weights and suit the new forces. As a solution, it is far from ideal and as you said it would be bulky, but there aren't many easy ways to make this work. It would be ideal if I could fix the electric motor on the side to where the stator is, but I highly doubt that I can find a model that is slim enough ( I found this one but I suspect it costs more than I want to pay for the whole project : https://www.mgm-compro.com/electric-motor/25-kw-electric-motor/ ).

I am thinking about induction motors because I'd like a high revving power delivery, similar to an ICE (not something entirely governed by torque) and according to what I've found, induction motors are more suited to this. Plus, I read that they offer better regeneration. I found this one : https://www.hpevs.com/hpevs-ac-electric-motors-ac9-for-golf-cars-motorcycles-mining-vehicles-hydraulic-pumps.htm . It has the power and torque curves that I want but it's heavy (22kg) https://www.hpevs.com/Site/images/torque-curves/ac-%209/96-volt/Imperial%20pdf%20graphs/AC9%2096%20volt%20650%20amp/Peak%20graphs/ac-9_96_volt_650_amp_imperial_peak_graph.pdf . I'm still looking into it...

This will be my first conversion and I haven't really wrapped my head around the subject yet. I saw what zero is using, also some conversion examples where there were three cables going into the motor so I assumed those are AC, and maybe falsely assumed that they were AC induction (including the two models in the links here). If you say that people rarely use them for motorcycles maybe I'm missing some of the basics here :? Are these not induction ? Are these AC synchronous ? If this is the case then I'm getting a little ahead of myself, I better go back to the drawing board... I just started reading Carl Vogel's "Build you own electric motorcycle" today, I'll be sure to know what chapters not to skip :)
 
med5389 said:
spinningmagnets said:
There was one project that removed the cylinders, head, and pistons/connecting rods. It left the crankshaft and the added electric motor drove the timing chain that normally attached from the crank to the overhead-cam.

The main purpose was to have a fast, cheap and easy way to convert an ICE to electric, and give the motor the use of the gears. After the conversion, that particular builder ended up using only two of the six gears in the stock transmission.

I have no experience with that.

Sorry to high-jack this old topic, but I'm currently considering the exact same thing on a conversion project : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=114576 .

Do you recall where this was tried ? I'd be curious to know the details of how it turned out..
I know there have been a few, but those I can remember the names of don't seem to exist on the web anymore, and the others I don't remember any useful details that would let me find them (if they're still there).

I can't find any existing photos of it (none of his sites seem to still exist), but Reverend Gadget converted a BMW K75 bike in the early 2000's by cutting away some of the transmission bell and making an adapter to secure the motor to it. Text of the site is still here:
https://web.archive.org/web/20080905174449/http://reverendgadget.com/subpage1.html

I tried to see if EVAlbum had any pics, but their search sucks, and unless you know what terms the specific person used on their page, finding one using google site search is pretty hard. This is their motorcycles list
http://www.evalbum.com/type/MTCY
if you want to look at the images and see if any appear to still have the transmission present.

Until a month or so ago, I had an early 1980s Suzuki dirtbike frame with transmission still in it that was someday going to be cut up and used to build a super-heavy duty cargo trike or powered trailer, by simply driving the transmission via chain like the original gas engine did, and covering the top with a custom shaped plate and gasket to keep the oil in. (had to get rid of the frame and a bunch of other stuff, though)

So depending on the design of your transmission, you may be able to drive it pretty simply.
 
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