Desperate: Error 30H - Replaced all but the motor!

[MelbourneBBS02]

Hi Everyone,

I'm at wit's end, having read every piece of information regarding Error 30H on the net and being unsure whether to sell my parts or to sink more money into getting my BBS02 back up to speed.

A few months ago, my display began giving me the ‘Error 30H’ message and then ceased displaying anything at all.

I hopped onto a square curb at relatively low speed, but I got a pinch flat on the rear tyre. I then began experiencing issues with the BBS02.

The BBS02 still functioned, but only when bypassing the display. I thought it was the display which had gone bad, so I replaced this with a DPC-14 model but this didn’t work fix the issue and the display wouldn't stay on unless I held down the power button. .

I then replaced the controller but this did not rectify the issue either.

Lastly, I have replaced the wiring harness but this hasn’t helped either! I am able to program the controller with the programming cable, the device still operates when the display is bypassed. The battery is not old and showing a very healthy 52-57V.

When plugged into power, the display turns on and shows Error 30H, but only if I hold it down. It turns off as soon as I release it. Nothing indicates that the display is communicating with the motor, but sometimes I get weird power output showing (like 3642 watts!) when I activate PAS with the power button held down. I also get a red light on the speedo sensor which turns off when a magnet is held up to it.

Has something come loose in the motor? What should I try next?

 

[neptronix]

Is the magnet on the spoke of your rear wheel correctly aligned so that it triggers the rear wheel speed sensor?

 

[MelbourneBBS02]

Is the magnet on the spoke of your rear wheel correctly aligned so that it triggers the rear wheel speed sensor?

Thanks for your reply.

The unit is currently off the bike for testing. Whether or not the magnet is aligned properly is not relevant to the issues I described, as the unit doesn't require the speed sensor or magnet installed to turn on.

 

[neptronix]

I got an error on my bbs02 without the magnet, but i forget the code.

30H is a generic code for 'something is wrong with the wiring harness', which can mean a lot of things.
Might be the speed sensor in the rear if this all started with a rear wheel problem. Just a guess.

 

[MelbourneBBS02]

I got an error on my bbs02 without the magnet, but i forget the code.

30H is a generic code for 'something is wrong with the wiring harness', which can mean a lot of things.
Might be the speed sensor in the rear if this all started with a rear wheel problem. Just a guess.

Unfortunately 30H is a bit more vague than 'wiring harness' related and relates to a 'communication error' generally.

The BBS02 does not require a speed sensor hooked up (or a magnet to pass by the sensor) for the display to power on. I tested this to be the case prior to installing the unit.

I am not focusing too much on the pinch flat as being the cause of the issue, as it could have been that an impact with the curb damaged some part of the system, or it could even be coincidence. I used the unit for fairly spirited trail riding, so this could have been the straw that broke the camel's back(?)

 

[docw009]

Error 21H is when the speed sensor isn't working. I cannot remember if it eventually shuts down the motor. I don't think so.

 

[MelbourneBBS02]

The weird thing is that I've replaced everything but the motor, but the motor works fine!

It seems likey a communication issue between the motor and the controller.

 

[TommyCat]

I don't think there is any "communication" between the motor and controller. Unless you count the pulses sent out by the motor's hall sensors. Have you tried removing all connections except for the display and battery and then powering up? Including speed sensor, gear (shift) sensor, throttle ETC. Perhaps going so far to include the motor connections... I'm thinking some kind of short.
Not enough to keep it from running when the display is jumped. But enough to keep the display from latching 'on'.

Another thought would be to check over the original harness and controller wiring for any damage, resistance or shorts.

 

[MelbourneBBS02]

I don't think there is any "communication" between the motor and controller. Unless you count the pulses sent out by the motor's hall sensors. Have you tried removing all connections except for the display and battery and then powering up? Including speed sensor, gear (shift) sensor, throttle ETC. Perhaps going so far to include the motor connections... I'm thinking some kind of short.
Not enough to keep it from running when the display is jumped. But enough to keep the display from latching 'on'.


Another thought would be to check over the original harness and controller wiring for any damage, resistance or shorts.

Thanks for your reply. I have a hunch that you are on the money re a short. These issues started after I rerouted the wiring harness. I tried to clean up the wiring but probably didn't give it enough slack at the display end so it was under tension when the bars turned excessively.

I've done everything you've suggested, except for counting the pulses sent out by the hall sensor (not sure how to do this). I have also disconnected everything except for the display and battery as you've suggested.

As for the original harness, it showed no visible damage at the time of the incident, but the wiring inside the sheath could have been stressed from pulling (etc). I have a multimeter - should I be testing for continuity across different wires on the harness?

 

[TommyCat]

I was not meaning to literally "count" pulses. Poor choice of word... but rather you could concider the pulses returned by the hall sensors as a "type" of communication. But certainly not what the displays error code is referring to.

And yes, I would certainly look for any wiring discrepancies in the old harness using the pin-out above! And with the new information on possible stressing, do testing while pulling/twisting on it a bit.

 

[docw009]

Do we know that DPC-14's work with all versions of the BBS02? Well, you did replace the controller, so I suppose it should. Could be a bad DPC-14?

If you just wire power and ground to the DPC-14, should it power up and stay on? I've got a C-965 on my BBS02, but have never tried that. However, the several LCD's (4 different ones) I own for external controllers power up with none of the serial ports connected.

 

[MelbourneBBS02]

I have checked for continuity and shorts along the wiring harness with a multimeter. Everything is the way that it should be!

I also took the motor apart completely and checked the connections and integrity of everything. Everything seemed fine except for damage to the green phase cable coating which I don't think was in issue. I insulated it anyway.

I then took a multimeter to the display connections with the battery plugged in. The brown wire to the display out (PL+) was giving me 57 volts which is the voltage of my battery. How can this be right? Shouldn't the display receive about 5.2V?

 

[docw009]

Yes the brown wire is at battery voltage. When terminals 1 & 2 are connected, the controller is turned on. Isn't this how you bypass your display? A lot of controllers I've seen work like that.

The display generates its own power to run the internals (LCD , its brain and the serial port.) It can use the brown lead to measure the battery voltage. I was just wondering why the button has to be held down to keep it powered up. I believe it's just like a flip flop circuit. Hit it once, and PL is tied to B+. It does seem like the PCD-14 is broken.

If the PAS level is right, you could bypass the display and wire the throttle into pins 5, 7, 8. Use a bike computer for speedometer. I think someone on the forum prefers to run his BBS02 like that,

 

[MelbourneBBS02]

Yes the brown wire is at battery voltage. When terminals 1 & 2 are connected, the controller is turned on. Isn't this how you bypass your display? A lot of controllers I've seen work like that.

The display generates its own power to run the internals (LCD , its brain and the serial port.) It can use the brown lead to measure the battery voltage. I was just wondering why the button has to be held down to keep it powered up. I believe it's just like a flip flop circuit. Hit it once, and PL is tied to B+. It does seem like the PCD-14 is broken.

If the PAS level is right, you could bypass the display and wire the throttle into pins 5, 7, 8. Use a bike computer for speedometer. I think someone on the forum prefers to run his BBS02 like that,

As I was pulling everything and rewiring it, I encountered a new message on the screen.

"Voltage Adjust.... Failed" when I hold all buttons down
https://imgur.com/a/7tbIhLb

Now instead of going to the normal display when the power button is held, the display asks for a pin which I can't enter.

The throttle has also stopped working when the display is bypassed.

 

[TommyCat]

Yikes... losing ground. :?

The display's two cables are color coded and not interchangeable. Any chance they're reversed?

"As I was pulling everything and rewiring it, I encountered a new message on the screen."
But this sure sounds like a harness problem... Any bent pins? Knowing now that full battery potential is present in the wiring harness with such small wires. You can see how a cable smash, cut or pull could prove fatal.


I'd check for battery voltage at the display's connector connection number... #1 and #8. (If you weren't already) Then check for amp draw thru the jumper wire between pins #1 (P+) and #2 (PL) used for bypassing the display. Should be less than 40mA typically, less than 100mA maximum.

https://electricbike.com/manuals/dpc14.pdf

 

[MelbourneBBS02]

Yikes... losing ground. :?

The display's two cables are color coded and not interchangeable. Any chance they're reversed?
...

I'd check for battery voltage at the display's connector connection number... #1 and #8. (If you weren't already) Then check for amp draw thru the jumper wire between pins #1 (P+) and #2 (PL) used for bypassing the display. Should be less than 40mA typically, less than 100mA maximum.

https://electricbike.com/manuals/dpc14.pdf

I don't think there's a chance that the display's cables are reversed.

I'll try your other suggestion as soon as I get a chance. Sometimes you need a break from fixing things, so in frustration you don't break things while fixing things :|

 

[Brvfr1]

Hi, ingot this message too... here is my case:

my switch pad is no longer working properly (the on/off button works fine but the plus and minus buttons don’t work)... so I am stuck on the password screen without being able to ride the bicycle. Any idea on how to fix it? This issue started when the battery went down for the first time (I have just started to run the BaFang kit). I have already unplugged and plugged all the cables. When I turn the Display pressing (on/off + the plus buttons), a message “Voltage adjust Fail” appears.

 

[Brvfr1]

Another comment. It doesn’t seem to be a bad function of the control pad: when I press plus and power together, I get the message “Voltage adjust failed”, when I press only power, it goes directly to the password screen without any message, so the plus button works although it is impossible to set the pin on the password screen

 

[markz]

I would have replaced the controller with a generic ebike controller and not have the display.

 

[fechter]

30H indicates a failure in the serial data communication between the controller and display. Since the controller and cable were replaced, it would point to the display.

If the wires got shorted at some point so the battery wire made contact with the data wire, the UART will be toast.

 

[markz]

30H indicates a failure in the serial data communication between the controller and display. Since the controller and cable were replaced, it would point to the display.

If the wires got shorted at some point so the battery wire made contact with the data wire, the UART will be toast.

Sounds complicated

Not worth the time to hassle with
Get rid of the KT controller and KT display!

 

[Brvfr1]

What does this “Voltage adjust failed” mean when I turn the display on?

 

[kcuf]

voltage adjust message dpc14

often seen using 52v battery

not sure what why

no harm for years here

 

[Brvfr1]

Thanks for your reply, but is there any linkage between the message and the fact that I am unable to input the password to unlock the display?

 

[kcuf]

haven't noticed v adjust relationship to pw

talking advance setting pw yes ?

forget default perhaps 1919 ?