drewjet
10 kW
GAry has been looking into getting them made for a long time. I know it's not his fault as he is at the mercy of his machinist. I am just looking for one...anywhere.
Direct Drive #219 Pitch Monster Sprocket
- Thread starter etard
- Start date
size of the sprocket can be overcome imo as long as the method of fabrication is stealth, a solid say 20" disk is going to stcik out like a sore thumb however the same 20" sprocket with spoked fixation would look much much better.
Miles that would be a 165t - does anyone know what size that would be?
im liking this idea more and more
D
Miles that would be a 165t - does anyone know what size that would be?
im liking this idea more and more
D
Thud
1 MW
180t gets you to 17.53" PD. (445.3mm) 15-1 with a 12t primary. (still larger than rim dia on my bmx ) but do-able.
I have about given up on 219 systems. There doesn't seem to be chain masterlinks avalible for this size (in my limited searches) I have chain break tools to build one for myself but, It really puts a strain on casual builders.
#35 chain is available in all the same strengths for = < $. (and you can pick up a new master link at any ace hardware on the planet)
I may just be lazy, But making the lil sprokets seems like a real hassle given the issues with the rest of the parts to make the drive line.
I bought a taper bored 12t 219, anealed it so it could be bored to size. Just to discover I needed to drop another $40 for a few links of chain. (not really a big deal but it was at the end of the project & I just wanted closure-& to get rolling on the next build)
sorry for the thread drift e-tard.
Any more thought on the 219 vs #35 chain match up?
(150t #35 = 17.9" PD.)
) but do-able.I have about given up on 219 systems. There doesn't seem to be chain masterlinks avalible for this size (in my limited searches) I have chain break tools to build one for myself but, It really puts a strain on casual builders.
#35 chain is available in all the same strengths for = < $. (and you can pick up a new master link at any ace hardware on the planet)
I may just be lazy, But making the lil sprokets seems like a real hassle given the issues with the rest of the parts to make the drive line.
I bought a taper bored 12t 219, anealed it so it could be bored to size. Just to discover I needed to drop another $40 for a few links of chain. (not really a big deal but it was at the end of the project & I just wanted closure-& to get rolling on the next build)
sorry for the thread drift e-tard.
Any more thought on the 219 vs #35 chain match up?
(150t #35 = 17.9" PD.)
#219 gives you smaller sprocket sizes (82%) and use of the Extron sprockets - those were the reasons we originally opted for it.
I'm not sure how much of an inconvenience splitting the chain would be for others? You'd need a chain splitter tool to get it to the right length, anyway...
You can certainly get #35 sprockets up to 125t off the shelf, that's a plus.
If we're going to use custom sprockets, it's a trade off between size and convenience, I guess...
I'm not sure how much of an inconvenience splitting the chain would be for others? You'd need a chain splitter tool to get it to the right length, anyway...
You can certainly get #35 sprockets up to 125t off the shelf, that's a plus.
If we're going to use custom sprockets, it's a trade off between size and convenience, I guess...
drewjet
10 kW
I like the 219 for the extron sprockets. The chain is a little more expensive but not that much. A chain breaker is relatively cheap.
I also think the chain is of a higher quality than the #35 stuff.
Thud what was the bore on that taper sprocket? Did you remove the taper and make an adapter for it?
I also think the chain is of a higher quality than the #35 stuff.
Thud what was the bore on that taper sprocket? Did you remove the taper and make an adapter for it?
Thud
1 MW
Drewjet,
I opened the taper bore to .5" dia. It took out 95% of the taper. total PITA.
I am certain #35 is available in high quality alloys.
when I designed my sprocket adapters, I used a go kart bolt circle pattern for sproket interchangability
I guess in the big picture there is no apreciable differance to the builder. Chain is chain.
12T 219 drive sprokets. optimum bore dia? .5" (& a 12mm option for you metric fellows)
How many want one right now? If I tool up, how many in the first run?
I opened the taper bore to .5" dia. It took out 95% of the taper. total PITA.
I am certain #35 is available in high quality alloys.
when I designed my sprocket adapters, I used a go kart bolt circle pattern for sproket interchangability
I guess in the big picture there is no apreciable differance to the builder. Chain is chain.
12T 219 drive sprokets. optimum bore dia? .5" (& a 12mm option for you metric fellows)
How many want one right now? If I tool up, how many in the first run?
liveforphysics
100 TW
#219 is very slick for our needs, because if we are physically limited to something like a 20" sprocket size, if we are to use #219, we get 165t to play with, and if we go #35, we only get (0.306"/0.375")*165t, or 134t at our same 20" sprocket limit.
I personally would love a pair of 1/2" bore #219 sprockets in 12t, though I think most folks will be wanting them in 12mm form.
I personally would love a pair of 1/2" bore #219 sprockets in 12t, though I think most folks will be wanting them in 12mm form.
well, i have the #219 chain splitter and i would personally be sticking with #219 because of the benefits Miles mentions.
i could certainly live with a 16" sprocket at the rear especially if i get enough reduction to go direct drive with a 3220.
as far as drive sprocket is concerned thud i would certainly buy some from you (i wanted to send you a thank you donation for the broach work you did for us all anyhow).
i would be after an 11t and 12t with a staright bore for the 3220 although im not sure what that diameter is off the top of my head? 3/8"?
Miles,
looking back at my own thread (sorry etard no more after this one ;p ) what turn 3220 would i want to order for this setup.....
11t/165t direct drive?
that's a 15-1 ratio so i guess i need to work out what wheel speed (rear sprocket speed) i would want? i want damn good torque, possibly wheelie popping - i know this will lead to a short top end, my estimation is 16/17mph but i plan to compensate this with a delta/wye board to push this up nearer 30mph which is plenty for my app - i have total confidence in gary making this happen when he has more time.
Even if i set up now i could live with 17mph until the board is ready although i would need to buy a 6 wire astro as i planned anyway - what would i need 6t still???
very excited that this may become reality, much as i admire some of our current rc setups this seems so much easier to mount and setup?
look what you've started etard, you star!!!!
Cheers,
D
i could certainly live with a 16" sprocket at the rear especially if i get enough reduction to go direct drive with a 3220.
as far as drive sprocket is concerned thud i would certainly buy some from you (i wanted to send you a thank you donation for the broach work you did for us all anyhow).
i would be after an 11t and 12t with a staright bore for the 3220 although im not sure what that diameter is off the top of my head? 3/8"?
Miles,
looking back at my own thread (sorry etard no more after this one ;p ) what turn 3220 would i want to order for this setup.....
11t/165t direct drive?
that's a 15-1 ratio so i guess i need to work out what wheel speed (rear sprocket speed) i would want? i want damn good torque, possibly wheelie popping - i know this will lead to a short top end, my estimation is 16/17mph but i plan to compensate this with a delta/wye board to push this up nearer 30mph which is plenty for my app - i have total confidence in gary making this happen when he has more time.
Even if i set up now i could live with 17mph until the board is ready although i would need to buy a 6 wire astro as i planned anyway - what would i need 6t still???
very excited that this may become reality, much as i admire some of our current rc setups this seems so much easier to mount and setup?
look what you've started etard, you star!!!!
Cheers,
D
If you aim for a wheel speed of 300rpm, that's about 20mph.
300 x 15 = 4500rpm motor speed
No-load motor speed needed for this is 4500 / 85 x 100 = 5294rpm let's say 5300rpm
5300 / 48 (Volts) = 110 rpm/Volt
So yes, you still need the 6t
300 x 15 = 4500rpm motor speed
No-load motor speed needed for this is 4500 / 85 x 100 = 5294rpm let's say 5300rpm
5300 / 48 (Volts) = 110 rpm/Volt
So yes, you still need the 6t
Thanks Miles,
should i aim at a slightly lower wheel to increase torque bearing in mind i'll eventually have delta/wye?
the setup i have now is good for torque but more is always welcome? or do i not need to worry if im going to try the 3 spd hub anyway? this would allow me even greater torque and top end yes?
look how excited i am at a something that is a long way from made yet LOL - come on etard i want a 165t now!!!!
im after the kind of torque that would lift the front end on throttle only, even if this limits me to 25mph top end all things considered?
thanks,
D
should i aim at a slightly lower wheel to increase torque bearing in mind i'll eventually have delta/wye?
the setup i have now is good for torque but more is always welcome? or do i not need to worry if im going to try the 3 spd hub anyway? this would allow me even greater torque and top end yes?
look how excited i am at a something that is a long way from made yet LOL - come on etard i want a 165t now!!!!
im after the kind of torque that would lift the front end on throttle only, even if this limits me to 25mph top end all things considered?
thanks,
D
AussieJester
1 TW
deecanio said:stealth is losing over ease of install and simplicity
As the chances of me getting my hands on Deecs one off Mr R reduction drive increase
KiM
AussieJester
1 TW
deecanio said:aye it does indeed kim, complet with built in freewheel in the 60t, nice
yes Miles 48v pack
D
:: clears space on mantel piece::
KiM
p.s Deec i believe i have accomplished something your after on your bike today, totally independent manual pedalling capabilities
mud2005
10 kW
do all the "b type" 219 sprockets have a tapered bore?
there are 12t sprockets here http://www.gokartgalaxy.com/engine_sprockets1.htm that seem to have a 3/4" bore
could that be used with an aluminium bore reducer? seems easier than boring out a tapered sprocket.
there are 12t sprockets here http://www.gokartgalaxy.com/engine_sprockets1.htm that seem to have a 3/4" bore
could that be used with an aluminium bore reducer? seems easier than boring out a tapered sprocket.
AussieJester said:p.s Deec i believe i have accomplished something your after on your bike today, totally independent manual pedalling capabilities
aye this leads to ebike nirvana
clear that space mate
- what is your after, actually i need to stop clogging, i'll take it to my own thread.D
drewjet
10 kW
Thud said:
I would want 1 for 3/8 and one 10 mm in 12 tootth
K-ray
1 W
Hey guys,
Thud wrote
"I bought a taper bored 12t 219, anealed it so it could be bored to size."
Glad to hear you did it (although not suprised)
I bought a 10 tooth a while ago and am planning on trying the same thing.
I know 10 is kinda small... thoughts (Miles) on noise / engagement?
Hoping to run a 3220 directly with a 10 tooth to just 92 on a 24" wheel.
Question also for you metalurgic guru's I'm thinking you need to temper again
after machining? I was just planning on reheating and quenching in oil???
Thoughts also on distortion of bores or threading after this is performed??
Any insight would be MUCH appreciated :wink:
This of course assuming I get that far with it :lol:
Hey Etard, Not tryin to steal this topic! Sorry. I too am a 219 fan. The big rears
are a great idea... I 'll prob need one too...
Kevin
Thud wrote
"I bought a taper bored 12t 219, anealed it so it could be bored to size."
Glad to hear you did it (although not suprised)
I bought a 10 tooth a while ago and am planning on trying the same thing.
I know 10 is kinda small... thoughts (Miles) on noise / engagement?
Hoping to run a 3220 directly with a 10 tooth to just 92 on a 24" wheel.
Question also for you metalurgic guru's I'm thinking you need to temper again
after machining? I was just planning on reheating and quenching in oil???
Thoughts also on distortion of bores or threading after this is performed??
Any insight would be MUCH appreciated :wink:
This of course assuming I get that far with it :lol:
Hey Etard, Not tryin to steal this topic! Sorry. I too am a 219 fan. The big rears
are a great idea... I 'll prob need one too...
Kevin
etard
100 kW
Jeez,
You go away for a day and Blammo! Page 4. :lol:
Ok, good news: I found a supplier for 160 tooth jumbo sprockets, one piece.
Bad new: they will only do them in aluminum
good news: they will be lightened and are constructed from aircraft grade aluminum (7075?) they can also produce whatever bolt pattern we prefer.
Here is what I need:
1. We all need to agree on a size
2. We all need to agree on what bolt pattern. I would prefer either Gary's adapter or chainring.
3. We can get them solid or lightened. Lightening costs more ($6).
Let's discuss this here, come up with a decent compromise, and I can order next week.
Also, I am still holding out for Delrin as it will be lighter, but I'm guessing the extra cost will be prohibitive, but I like Luke's suggestion of getting them made in 1/4ths and using and adapter to hold them together since that is what we will be bolting to anyway. I am also liking Miles idea of using carbon fiber rods as spokes, it might even take out some driveline shock and jarring.
On the stealth factor: it is prefered, but really D, there's nothing stealth about your bike. :lol: Honestly, if you made it the same size as your rim, it would actually be more stealth than any other drive out there from the side, the whole thing would blend in really well and all you would see is a chain going to a really small sprocket.
Let's get a head count, I need at least a dozen here.
You go away for a day and Blammo! Page 4. :lol:
Ok, good news: I found a supplier for 160 tooth jumbo sprockets, one piece.
Bad new: they will only do them in aluminum
good news: they will be lightened and are constructed from aircraft grade aluminum (7075?) they can also produce whatever bolt pattern we prefer.
Here is what I need:
1. We all need to agree on a size
2. We all need to agree on what bolt pattern. I would prefer either Gary's adapter or chainring.
3. We can get them solid or lightened. Lightening costs more ($6).
Let's discuss this here, come up with a decent compromise, and I can order next week.
Also, I am still holding out for Delrin as it will be lighter, but I'm guessing the extra cost will be prohibitive, but I like Luke's suggestion of getting them made in 1/4ths and using and adapter to hold them together since that is what we will be bolting to anyway. I am also liking Miles idea of using carbon fiber rods as spokes, it might even take out some driveline shock and jarring.
On the stealth factor: it is prefered, but really D, there's nothing stealth about your bike. :lol: Honestly, if you made it the same size as your rim, it would actually be more stealth than any other drive out there from the side, the whole thing would blend in really well and all you would see is a chain going to a really small sprocket.
Let's get a head count, I need at least a dozen here.
Kevin,K-ray said:
The level of chordal action is affected by the exact axle spacing, it might be worth tweaking this in the set-up - if you're using a chain tensioner, of course...
I think the #219 motor sprockets are probably case-hardened (Todd?). I guess the case is still there, if that's the case, though.
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