disk brakes.. what's best ?

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knighty

10 kW
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Sep 13, 2012
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535
the brakes on my bike are a bit naff... (160mm front and back)

the front disk which came with the bike isn't so bad...

but the disk kit which came with the rear hub motor kit is pretty bad... adjusting it the best I can... by the time the pads aren't catching the disk there's not enough break left... I can pull the break all the way back and it's not stopping me...

so I'm thinking I should upgrade... before I kill myself... it's surprising how much it takes to stop from 20mph which is about my average speed... stopping from 40mph is terrible...

so bigger disks = more leverage = more stopping power

so I could get a pair of THESE so I can take 200mm disks...

but... are all disks about the same ?

and then, is there much difference in different makes of callipers ?

and are hydraulic much better than cable ? - if I go hydraulic then I'll have to mod the leavers to take the switches to cut the power and activate the regen brake.. and then I need to make sure they're the right length for my bike... (and be easy to move, because I'm thinking about getting a different frame)


until a month ago I hadn't been on a bike in 15 years... and a lot has changed since then :-o
 
I like brakes that don't break.
 
itchynackers said:
I like brakes that don't break.
Click to expand...

I'm dyslexic so it's all the same to me

just count yourself lucky I didn't spell disk with a 'C' instead of an 'S' like normal :s




p.s/EDIT: I edited the thread to fix it... for everyone else... I had brake and break back to front ;)
 
Magura Gustav M are best of all for the Ebike. This is as close as you can get to motorcycle brakes, without the weight. Even better, they clear the disc spacing of any hub motor.

24411.jpg
 
MadRhino, where can you get these Magura Gustav M brakes from?

They seem to be discontinued.

Kudos
 
They aren't made anymore. Look for used ones.
These seem to be in excellent shape, just make sure the seller sends them to the islands...
http://www.ebay.de/itm/170940722757
 
The larger the rotor better.
The $$$ you spend on a caliper matters a lot less than the rotor diameter.
If you have a cheapo suspension fork, go with 180mm. It'll be a noticeable upgrade.
If you have a good suspension fork or a steel one, go with 203mm. It will stop very well :]
 
Ebike disk brakes = anything with a 180mm or 203mm rotor.

Go larger than that and you'll have fork flex issues unless you are running say.. the toughest and shortest solid steel fork possible ( a BMX fork would be a good example )
 
I have tektro e-comp brakes, they have an automatic electronic cutoff built in and are very good. Have a search through my posts and you will find the topic

Sent using Endless-Sphere Mobile app
 
I recommend hydraulic brakes highly! I used a cable brake before, crappy Tektro Io, and it was alright. Then I got some 10 year old Hayes Hydraulic brakes and the difference is amazing. The pads are very easy to come by as well. One thing is, if they need a bleed, it sucks. I bought a kit, tried to bleed mine, and all I got was hydraulic fluid in my eye.
 
Now i am using 160mm Quad QHD-7 hydraulic disk brakes and you are right if you go hydraulic you cant go back to mechanical brakes :roll:
I am not the running type i prefer torque over top speed but in downhill situations the quad's are just getting hot.
I can use electric braking from the controller and regen but sometimes it can be annoying.
 
Look up Gator Brakes..they do some massive 4, 6 and 8 pot calipers..not sure how wide they are though

Yikes they are expensive!!

http://www.veloverde.net/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30021

http://www.veloverde.net/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=221
 
Magura Gustav M brakes - unavailable: Oh for a minute there I was drooling! :)

I have a setup that works, although it’s not optimal and I am always looking for a better solution.
  • Avid 203mm rotors front and rear. I use rotor shims or spacers to move it away from the hub cover.
  • Calipers are Avid B7, modified by filing off the backside nut flush for more clearance.
  • Levers are Shimano – not that it makes any difference.
  • Use the Park Tool Rotor Truing Fork #DT-2C to correct deflection caused the flawed rotor interface. This can be tedious work, but I found that watching how the pros do it saved me a lot of time.
My brakes sing when adjusted close enough to stop properly, particularly in turns where the hub covers are warping ever so slightly and it drives me batty. At present I’m building a little motor stand that I can use to hoist either front or rear wheel onto while still mounted to spin up for disc adjustment. Later I plan to use the same device for wheel balancing; mine are profoundly out and the wobble is perceptible above 33 mph.

Perhaps together we can find a better solution. KF
 
Neil, those are awesome, but how many forks out there do you think could handle them :lol:

I am 250lbs so when i see my steel forks flexing under the load of 203mm disc brakes, i get nervous :shock: a big rear brake ( or strong regen ) could be good though.
 
My tektro hydraulic Ebrakes are awesome, saves messing around installing separate cutoff and the stopping power is the same or better than my avid juicy's

Sent using Endless-Sphere Mobile app
 
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/963298/

Often found on Ebay, used or old new stock for a very good price. I got some for as low as 180$ new in the box for a complete rear brake set including the 210mm rotor, used set of fr and rr for 250$. They are easy to maintain, and last a lifetime.
 
All disc brakes are not equal. Not even close. Most cheap cable actuated discs are weak and horrible. Most hydraulics are a service and maintenance hassle, difficult to configure for different bike setups, and totally unnecessary for good strong braking.

Avid BB7 cable actuated brakes are what you want, really. Use those with fully metallic pads, and you will not be disappointed regardless which rotor size you choose. Bigger rotors are slightly more powerful and can dissipate more energy before they overheat.

Keep your rotors clean, and don't bend them.

Per pound, per dollar, and per time spent keeping them in good operating condition, V-brakes are a clear winner over discs-- if you can use them. That's a 22" rotor which is way harder to bend out of shape than a little 6-8" disc. Kool Stop Salmon compound pads are the best for rim brakes, and cable routing and finishing should be done with some sensitivity.
 
Chalo said:
V-brakes are a clear winner over discs-- if you can use them. That's a 22" rotor which is way harder to bend out of shape than a little 6-8" disc.
Click to expand...

Exactly the point I made just the other day on the Facebook group, a good set of pads that shed water well, on my normal road bike, with XTR parallelogram style V-brakes are better than cheap disk brakes by a long shot...Beats the crap out of the rims in the winter though if riding in muddy or gritty conditions
 
thanks for all the input/ideas guys

I think these might be my best option... http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=79346
(200mm front and back)

(I looked for some "tektro e-comp" brakes but couldn't find any in 200mm in the uk)

what about the brake leavers ?

as someone said above, by the time they're adjusted tight enough to give good braking they're squeaking/catching all the time

what would be really nice is a bit of extra leverage... either on the leaver or calliper end... so the same amount of movement on the handle = move movement of the pads...
 
knighty said:
what about the brake leavers ?

as someone said above, by the time they're adjusted tight enough to give good braking they're squeaking/catching all the time

what would be really nice is a bit of extra leverage... either on the leaver or calliper end... so the same amount of movement on the handle = move movement of the pads...
Click to expand...

You have to use levers designed for linear pull brakes to get the right ratio. Using levers designed for caliper or cantilever brakes will result in inadequate cable travel.

Avid Speed Dial levers are ideal, because they have the right overall range of cable travel along with adjustable leverage ratio, so you can tune the feel and response of your brakes to your liking.
 
knighty said:
is there an easy/accepted way to graft switches onto them for ebreks/power cut off ?
Click to expand...

Someone I work with found switches that fit the small (like 4mm) thread for the brake lever reach limiter screw. If you can't find those, you could try drilling and tapping a larger thread in the same location as the limiter screw, to fit a different contact switch.
 
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