Right at the northern end of Huntington Beach Cliffs in the ‘60s there was an oilfield hot water waste pipe that used to empty directly into the ocean. Before surfers wore wetsuits we used to sit under the discharge pipe in the 95 degree F stinky oil well water to keep warm between sessions.
A catering truck would come around at lunchtime so we didn’t starve.
We laughed at the first guy who wore a wetsuit but he stayed out longer and got the most waves, so soon everyone had to get one.
Much later came the short board and the surf leash. The result was crowded conditions and gremlins that couldn’t even swim.