Does the Cyclone 3KW motor have a temperature trip?

[esust]

i'm having the same problem.

can the hall sensors stop working due to heat. It's always a heat problem for me. i can 30 minutes riding until the i get a hall sensor error on teh controller and only 5 minutes if i'm blasting it. aways fine at the begining of each ride. has to be the heat.

 

[999zip999]

Hopefully the first thing is hall sensors. I had them get hot and stiop working only to cool down and work, but always a problem after . Turned the stator a little golden also. Melted many stators to.

 

[999zip999]

Also look at other group use a wired that are soldered in the motor sometimes they're not soldered correctly I've had this problem on a brand new motor.

 

[esust]

My controller produces a hall sensor error just after the motor starts vibrating and then shutsdown always after about 30 minutes of riding. Each day i ride my bike again it works fine again for about 30 minutes. If i ride it hard it will only last 15 minutes.

the common problem is clearly heat which is affecting the hall sensors.

i contacted Cyclone motors in taiwan and they said....

"We put the Temp. switch inside the motor, so when is over 110 degree c, the hall sensor will be cut off and controller will detect hall fail and cut off"

Does anyone know if this is true??? I have found nothing online which confirms this. no one has ever mentioned there being a internal temperature trip inside the cyclone motor.....

 

[Tommm]

First time I have heard of it. You should ask what year and month did they start doing it.

Is the motor getting hot? It could be the battery or controller shutting down.

 

[esust]

My controller produces a hall sensor error just after the motor starts vibrating and then shutsdown always after about 30 minutes of riding. Each day i ride my bike again it works fine again for about 30 minutes. If i ride it hard it will only last 15 minutes.

the common problem is clearly heat which is affecting the hall sensors.

i contacted Cyclone motors in taiwan and they said....

"We put the Temp. switch inside the motor, so when is over 110 degree c, the hall sensor will be cut off and controller will detect hall fail and cut off"

Does anyone know if this is true??? I have found nothing online which confirms this. no one has ever mentioned there being a internal temperature trip inside the cyclone motor.....

 

[lukashanak]

I have it on my cyclone 4000w motor. Newer tested. My controller can lower power and shut down motor on my temps.
Its white thing by the winding. 110°C on it.

 

[Tommm]

I have it on my cyclone 4000w motor. Newer tested. My controller can lower power and shut down motor on my temps.
Its white thing by the winding. 110°C on it.

The way Paco explained it that sensor doesn't communicate with the controller, but it will open a circuit and cause a hall fault when it goes over 110 and close the circuit again when under. Simple and elegant solution, it is all done inside the motor.

 

[esust]

i took my cyclone motor apart and it doesn't have one. with further correspondance with Cyclone they said it's only on newer models.

so back to square one. Why are my hall sensors causing an error when hot. it can't be my controller because my controller has a separate high temperature trip on the controller. my controller always gives a hall sensor error when the motor gets hot.

 

[esust]

My controller produces a hall sensor error just after the motor starts vibrating and then shuts down always after about 30 minutes of riding. Each day i ride my bike again it works fine again for about 30 minutes. If i ride it hard it will only last 15 minutes.

the common problem is clearly heat which is affecting the hall sensors.

i contacted Cyclone and they say my Kelly controller is tripping on high temperature. When i contact Kelly, Kelly say that the because i get hall sensor error it's a problem with the hall sensors and not the controller because if if was high controller temperature then i would get a high controller temperature error.

how do work out what the problem is??

 

[Tommm]

You should be very thankful cyclone have thought about you. There is an advancement in newer cyclone motors which turns off a hall sensor when a high temperature is reached.

You need to find a proper gearing ratio that doesn't cook the motor.

 

[dustNbone]

Would be easy enough to test the hall sensors after the motor shuts down, it's a fairly simple process. That will at least tell you if the error message is accurate. All the symptoms point to the thermal switch the Cyclone has on their newer motors being tripped, afaik it opens a circuit at a preset temperature that will cause the controller to trip on a hall error.

Video on hall sensor testing

[youtube]efYFOHnXh0E[/youtube]

 

[esust]

Thanks for this. i will test the hall sensors.

i forgot to mention i have the older verision of the cyclone motor which doesn't have a temperature sensor. i checked myself. if i did then that would make sense.

but the hall sensors are shutting down on heat with a temperature sensor. doesnt' make sense.

 

[dustNbone]

Yeah it's weird, I've heard of hall sensors failing from being overheated, but I've never heard of one coming back to life when it cooled down.

 

[neptronix]

That would be a very interesting, cheap, and crude way to provide a temperature cutoff.

 

[amberwolf]

Yeah it's weird, I've heard of hall sensors failing from being overheated, but I've never heard of one coming back to life when it cooled down.

happend several times on my littel 350w fusin geared hub with a lyen hotrodded 6fet, using it to run my dayglo avenger hauling a trailer with nana (first st bernard i had), or a bunch of dog food, etc. motor would get too hot to touch, then after pouring enough water on a rag tied around it, and waiting, the halls would work again until it got too hot again. no idea of actual temperature. eventually i ran it hard enough long enough to melt the solder on the hall board inside, so parts fell off. :lol: but the halls still worked after i resoldered it....

 

[amberwolf]

esust, basiclaly what you need to do is change your system or reduce your usage so you don't heat the motor up that much, because it's not supposed to get hot enough to cause hall sensors to cut out.

if it does, it means you're using the system too hard or you're using it wrong, geared too high, etc.,

i'ts not kellys fault or cyclones fault

it's the way the system is being used.

 

[esust]

i'ts not kellys fault or cyclones fault

it's the way the system is being used.

yeah to be fair i'm putting through the motor a peak of 120 amps at 58 volts (6.9kw) and the motor is rated to 3kw. so i do get i'm overheating it. i just seemed odd as other people were saying for them to stop working and then work again. sounds like it's happened to other people though.

if i know it's definitely over heating then i can dial it down. has any one been successful using heat sinks on their motor?