There seems to be a difference between the front drives with just power vs those with cranks, the cranks all seem to use geared hubs such as this one: Stricker Handbikes - Our highlight, if I need to rebuild I will although if I can reuse anything be great - need to keep my batteries with the yellow connector. I prefer the waterproof connectors as easy for me!
Handbike Motor advice please
- Thread starter Somo
- Start date
Yes, much like having Sur-Ron electric bike which has no pedals and normal E-bike. I do like the Stricker hand-bike but you rely on the battery whereas the hand-bike you have currently you could still hand pedal. Comes down to your needs and what you want to spend. I ride bikes which I have built myself from scratch, cost in the hundreds, are 0.5 - 1.5 kgs heavier than the equivalent off the shelf bike and save thousands. I based most of my bike builds on a Lapierre Zesty lightweight e-bike from a few years back suited my needs, I do have a bike with a large battery, but am working on a two battery combo, main battery and a range extender, have the bits just have to do it. Yes one way or the other should be able to find waterproof connectors for the battery or self
amalgamating tape.
amalgamating tape.
Check the Stryker Smart Dynamic, thats crankable like mine, a hybrid. I really like the features of the motor you sent, says heat protection, way better torque, guess I have to change everything , pas sensor, throttle etc of do some have the same connectors. Really appreciate the help - i am now searching for a 20” rim kit. I have learnt to do a lot myself, bike tech here per hour is so so expensive (although cheaper than wheelchair tech which costs more than a car mechanic!!)
OK for info, I have built a number wheels in my time even for a motor bike years back anyway I use the Spoke calculator | Sapim for spoke lengths and most of the time I use Sapim stainless Strong spokes which are single butted or Sapim Leader 12g spokes. But before anything wait and get the hub and rim first which in both cases are to to suit a 36 spoke build. Found my other reply "For info when I build a wheel I use the Sapim "Spoke Calculator" tool to get the correct lengths for the spokes. I lace the wheel and screw the nipples down the thread of the spokes until the the threads just disappear, after that I turn each nipple in rotation say another 2 full turns then say another 1 full turn until there is the beginnings of tension then drop down to 1/2 / 1/4 turn, this gives me a pretty straight wheel as a starting point after which I did use a spare frame and a cable tie to tighten and straighten the wheel, but now I have a Minura Truing Stand and Gauge, regarding the spoke tension I do have a tension tester but have always gone on the spring between two spokes in my fingers, retired mechanical engineer so have the "feel", so far none of my wheels have fallen apart. Another make of spokes I have used is Halo stainless spokes which function well and don't cost crazy money." There is but I can explain that later regarding the lacing pattern.
Yes, fully understand, retired project engineer, I can put my hand to most things be it electronic, electrical or mechanical. I am sure there are a lot of things you can do that I cannot. Wheel building is a logical repeating pattern, number of spokes and how many spokes are overlapped by a single spoke as usually YouTube has the answer. You can always as I have done try your luck and see if you buy say a fully assembled 20" wheel as a spare part with the higher output, will have a look around as another part of my job was procurement in R & D.
Thank you - i will fall back to that is I cant find a kit. Grin are excellent but overly complicated to work with, i have tried and their prices are very high! I have found a Canadian dealer I am talking with!!
A bit dear, torque only 70nm and it's a screw not cassette, not sure what you have. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008262769001.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller.6.2e5byX4OyX4Otx&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.291025.0&scm_id=1007.13339.291025.0&scm-url=1007.13339.291025.0&pvid=8ed24737-8499-4732-bdb0-f9f9f82a9f29&_t=gps-id
cDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.291025.0,pvid:8ed24737-8499-4732-bdb0-f9f9f82a9f29,tpp_buckets:668#2846#8110#1995&pdp_ext_f={"order":"1","eval":"1","sceneId":"3339"}&pdp_npi=4@dis!GBP!184.46!140.19!!!229.80!174.65!@210390c217442934665663302eab30!12000044423305420!rec!UK!939598897!X&utparam-url=scenecDetailBottomMoreThisSeller|query_from:#nav-specification
cDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.291025.0,pvid:8ed24737-8499-4732-bdb0-f9f9f82a9f29,tpp_buckets:668#2846#8110#1995&pdp_ext_f={"order":"1","eval":"1","sceneId":"3339"}&pdp_npi=4@dis!GBP!184.46!140.19!!!229.80!174.65!@210390c217442934665663302eab30!12000044423305420!rec!UK!939598897!X&utparam-url=scenecDetailBottomMoreThisSeller|query_from:#nav-specification
Last edited:
