Downhill project motorcycle transmission
- Thread starter Ecobogan
- Start date
rodgah
10 kW
recumpence said:
what the hell is wrong with people
. I wonder how many people have cut their arms off with chainsaws and tried to sue stihl. Ridiculous
recumpence
1 GW
rodgah said:recumpence said:
what the hell is wrong with people
Tell me about it.
Sorry to derail this thread. Back no topic......
Matt
LegendLength
100 W
We'd love a video of it going through the gears.
Ecobogan
100 W
Sure I'll try to get a more gear specific video made, the second vid had some gear changing but was somewhat muffled by the whine and wind noise.
It more than amazes me that suing people for this kind of thing even gets a look in. It WAS considered un Australian to do such a thing and the U.S was seen as being litigious mad, but it was proven many years back and time and time again that Australia has far overtaken America in ridiculous lawsuits............luckily my lads are far from these lame types. I still feel mega guilty for my mates broken leg though.
On a lighter note and I feel a bit daft for this but I went for a ride yesterday, the chain broke in the first 100 metres, I swore and carried on clicked the bike into neutral and per chance hit the throttle.........she fired right up. I hadn't even tried to ride this rig from a dead stop, always pedalled first then hit the throttle, but after fixing the chain issue you can indeed start from stopped. I only did it once thinking it may be massively unhealthy for the system.
Is it bad to wind on the juice and take off in a jerky fashion?
I really need to put more back into this forum than just asking 5 million questions all the time but I do feel like a dried out knowledge sponge.......................So does anyone know how to reprogram the controller?
I tried the CC website to no avail and extensive HV160 googling.
Keep the fast bikes coming lads and ladettes it's been an unforgettable slice of my two wheeled life
It more than amazes me that suing people for this kind of thing even gets a look in. It WAS considered un Australian to do such a thing and the U.S was seen as being litigious mad, but it was proven many years back and time and time again that Australia has far overtaken America in ridiculous lawsuits............luckily my lads are far from these lame types. I still feel mega guilty for my mates broken leg though.
On a lighter note and I feel a bit daft for this but I went for a ride yesterday, the chain broke in the first 100 metres, I swore and carried on clicked the bike into neutral and per chance hit the throttle.........she fired right up. I hadn't even tried to ride this rig from a dead stop, always pedalled first then hit the throttle, but after fixing the chain issue you can indeed start from stopped. I only did it once thinking it may be massively unhealthy for the system.
Is it bad to wind on the juice and take off in a jerky fashion?
I really need to put more back into this forum than just asking 5 million questions all the time but I do feel like a dried out knowledge sponge.......................So does anyone know how to reprogram the controller?
I tried the CC website to no avail and extensive HV160 googling.
Keep the fast bikes coming lads and ladettes it's been an unforgettable slice of my two wheeled life
LegendLength
100 W
Oh sorry I found the video. I didn't realize it was yours!Ecobogan said:
rodgah
10 kW
Ecobogan said:
ah well its bad when it stutters and stalls due to it losing timing, but if you are in a low enough gear i would guess you might get away with it. I can on my mates 5t wye 50km/h bike, but I dare not tempt it on my 4t. that slightly different whistle sound you hear for the first 1/4 of a second of the motor start up is it figuring out its timing, after that full steam ahead.
To program you need the castle link usb thingy.....http://www.castlecreations.com/products/castle_link.html
Download the software, connect that up your usb, power on the esc and program away.
Ecobogan
100 W
Cheers for that Rodgah, legend. Seems pretty straight forward. I'm considering fitting the original KX80 clutch to gain low speed control just for a giggle. There have been countless times where picking a slow line or misjudging a tricky hill climb has meant pushing the bike to the top or starting all over again. The use of a clutch would, in my mind, negate all of these issues. Wheelstand control would also be doable through clutch slip.
It'd be a piece of cake to re fit the clutch but would be no pedals almost certainly..............food for thought
It'd be a piece of cake to re fit the clutch but would be no pedals almost certainly..............food for thought
ksithumper
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2014
- Messages
- 45
Ecobogan, did you ever investigate externally water cooling the 3220, and in particular is the can already sufficiently sealed for that?
Your bike is awesome by the way !
Your bike is awesome by the way !
Ecobogan
100 W
I most certainly investigated the prospect of liquid cooling the Trek, just haven't taken it any further. It was indeed part of the reason for utilising dirt bike engine cases. Will happen at some point. I'm heading in the direction of two 3220 4t deltas, fitting and beefing up the clutch and running footpegs. Have too many projects that need feeding. I just re read one of my posts regarding the torque comparison of the astro vs my streetbike, got that wrong!! KW for KW the astro would outgun the supercharged V twin excuse me for not making that clearer, I must have been half drunk
ksithumper
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2014
- Messages
- 45
Ecobogan said:
Did you work out how to seal cable penetrations of the can? (Or are they sufficiently sealed as standard, if there is no pressure in the coolant)?
Thanks
Ecobogan
100 W
That's a very good question and one I posed to Matt, though it must have slipped through the cracks. I'd be surprised if the cable penetration grommets stood up over time, the system would be pressurised albeit not that seriously and with heat and time............
I was thinking either an end housing, that caps the magneto side, with an elliptical opening that seals against the end of the Astro which allows the cables to poke through. Or a simpler housing that seals around the sides of the can leaving the end totally exposed. Not sure yet
I was thinking either an end housing, that caps the magneto side, with an elliptical opening that seals against the end of the Astro which allows the cables to poke through. Or a simpler housing that seals around the sides of the can leaving the end totally exposed. Not sure yet
ksithumper
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2014
- Messages
- 45
Ok, looks like we have the same issue to solve. I want to put my motor inside my 2-speed gearbox casing in an oil bath, mainly for noise reasons but also to keep it away from water and mud [and boy, do we have mud here in the UK...only for about 8 months of the year!!!] and to allow me to jet wash the bike if needed.
If I can't dream up an effective way to seal the cables then I can put the motor in the open air - but that is less preferred.
I've emailed Astroflight for advice; Matt, if you happen to read this, do you have any thoughts?
If I can't dream up an effective way to seal the cables then I can put the motor in the open air - but that is less preferred.
I've emailed Astroflight for advice; Matt, if you happen to read this, do you have any thoughts?
Ecobogan
100 W
About 80ish kph wouldn't be any more, that's with 13/58 gearing. With better 'c' rated batteries and taller gearing it'd easily see freeway speeds but 80ish is fine for the dirt. Been meaning to speed test it for a while now.
Ecobogan
100 W
And on those better 'c' rated batteries I had my first and last lipo explosion experience. I have to say first up that I'm 100% convinced that it was caused by my pushing these batteries too hard not some 'other' fault.
I was charging the battery pack on Friday night, they are charged singularly and I was up to number 3 of 4 charging at 2c. I was standing right by the bike, as is wise, when battery number 3 let out an abrupt hissing noise which turned instantly into the sound of high volume compressed air. "Shit that's not good" and I immediately turned off the charger, the hissing turned into an 8'' flame so I ran to the shed to get some side cutters to free the wild battery thinking it mightn't get worse.
By the time I got back, some 3-4 seconds later, the flame was 2 ft long and going crazy like a boat flare or fireworks disaster. I grabbed the hose and managed to put the fire out which took some doing let me tell you and dragged the steamy smouldering carcass out into the yard, my bike that is.
I pulled all batteries off the bike and separated them in the yard and re hosed everything down again.
Some 10 minutes later and with instigator battery number 3 well extinguished I went to move its remains with the shovel and it did it again!! I had to jump out of the way and get stuck in to it with the hose again
The bike is actually ok but needless to say all batteries are kaput as is most of the wiring, watts meter, seat, charger, charred frame paint, outdoor table and other bits and pieces in the back yard. Pretty wild. Learned a very stiff lesson there guys and it could have been infinitely worse as this was one battery, there were another 3 on standby.
10c lipo's with 20c for 30 seconds burst at 16ah giving 160amp cont and 320amp for 30 seconds. No where near enough.
It's possible that one of the batteries was damaged in the crash or the charger was faulty and pouring more amps in than it could handle but this is very unlikely I'd think.
Yes I've seen the YouTube lipo videos
I was charging the battery pack on Friday night, they are charged singularly and I was up to number 3 of 4 charging at 2c. I was standing right by the bike, as is wise, when battery number 3 let out an abrupt hissing noise which turned instantly into the sound of high volume compressed air. "Shit that's not good" and I immediately turned off the charger, the hissing turned into an 8'' flame so I ran to the shed to get some side cutters to free the wild battery thinking it mightn't get worse.
By the time I got back, some 3-4 seconds later, the flame was 2 ft long and going crazy like a boat flare or fireworks disaster. I grabbed the hose and managed to put the fire out which took some doing let me tell you and dragged the steamy smouldering carcass out into the yard, my bike that is.
I pulled all batteries off the bike and separated them in the yard and re hosed everything down again.
Some 10 minutes later and with instigator battery number 3 well extinguished I went to move its remains with the shovel and it did it again!! I had to jump out of the way and get stuck in to it with the hose again
The bike is actually ok but needless to say all batteries are kaput as is most of the wiring, watts meter, seat, charger, charred frame paint, outdoor table and other bits and pieces in the back yard. Pretty wild. Learned a very stiff lesson there guys and it could have been infinitely worse as this was one battery, there were another 3 on standby.
10c lipo's with 20c for 30 seconds burst at 16ah giving 160amp cont and 320amp for 30 seconds. No where near enough.
It's possible that one of the batteries was damaged in the crash or the charger was faulty and pouring more amps in than it could handle but this is very unlikely I'd think.
Yes I've seen the YouTube lipo videos
gwhy!1
100 kW
glad you caught it in time 
..
Were you balance charging at the time ?.
One of my mates batteries did a similar thing ... but it was totally his own fault in this case .. this was the aftermath..
always derate the C rating ... if i run my 20c lipos at a constant 120A the cells start to get hot , but there again these are nearly 2 years old with maybe 200 cycles on them.
..Were you balance charging at the time ?.
One of my mates batteries did a similar thing ... but it was totally his own fault in this case .. this was the aftermath..
always derate the C rating ... if i run my 20c lipos at a constant 120A the cells start to get hot , but there again these are nearly 2 years old with maybe 200 cycles on them.
recumpence
1 GW
I am sorry to hear about this.
90% of the time lipo fires occur from overcharging. But, it is possible to happen at other times.
I try not to exceed 1C charge rate. Also, I keep my 12S packs above 42 volts at all times and I do not charge them above 49.9 volts. So far I have been good. I did have one tiny lipo blow up from overcharging 10 years ago, though. My charger misread a charged 2S pack as a deeply discharged 3S and charged accordingly.
Matt
90% of the time lipo fires occur from overcharging. But, it is possible to happen at other times.
I try not to exceed 1C charge rate. Also, I keep my 12S packs above 42 volts at all times and I do not charge them above 49.9 volts. So far I have been good. I did have one tiny lipo blow up from overcharging 10 years ago, though. My charger misread a charged 2S pack as a deeply discharged 3S and charged accordingly.
Matt
ksithumper
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2014
- Messages
- 45
ksithumper said:
Astroflight came back to me today; it seems their can is sealed for dust etc but they are not comfortable it would happily run submerged, the cable grommets aren't designed for that. I have thought of a possible solution, but for now will just tweak my design so the motor stays in the open air. I don't plan on stressing it enough to hurt it....I think
The positive point is that at least I will now have the option to use Bertie's hall sensor kit, which I think wouldn't have been possible with the submerged motor.
gwhy!1
100 kW
Dunkenb said:
not really.. coiling a small bore copper tube will be better and just as easy but still not the best .. due to the surface contact with the can.
Drum
100 W
Something like this perhaps.. http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=483&osCsid=al52dct37ckco4krmbqkgl9q46
looks promising to me: best thermal contact between the can of the motor and the cooling water, and quite small on the outside diameter. Might need the ports shifted to suit the particular application.
The outside of the motor would have to be clean and smooth for the o-rings to seal well (although a wipe of silicone grease would help seal them) and possibly it would be a good idea to run antifreeze / corrosion inhibiter. If the outside of the motor was painted, there would be some advantage to removing the paint before installing the jacket to get the best heat transfer. There is also a possibility that the paint would blister or flake off if permanently surrounded by water and / or antifreeze.
Dave
looks promising to me: best thermal contact between the can of the motor and the cooling water, and quite small on the outside diameter. Might need the ports shifted to suit the particular application.
The outside of the motor would have to be clean and smooth for the o-rings to seal well (although a wipe of silicone grease would help seal them) and possibly it would be a good idea to run antifreeze / corrosion inhibiter. If the outside of the motor was painted, there would be some advantage to removing the paint before installing the jacket to get the best heat transfer. There is also a possibility that the paint would blister or flake off if permanently surrounded by water and / or antifreeze.
Dave
