ElectricGod
10 MW
200BHP in a little car like that. It had to be pretty fast. What was your 0-60 time?
ElectricGod said:200BHP in a little car like that. It had to be pretty fast. What was your 0-60 time?
Ianhill said:ElectricGod said:200BHP in a little car like that. It had to be pretty fast. What was your 0-60 time?
Between 6-7 seconds depending on the temp and dampness they only had little 13" wheels with 185 tyres so they struggled at the best of times it would do 150mph and the aero drag sound was unreal the doors would open at the top very poor drag co, The ace up its sleeve was 30-120mph shock a lot of bigger cars.
Ianhill said::lol: you be like jelly getting out.
It weighs 850kg, thats power a normal car could only dream of the small wheels don't accelerate well off the mark but give the car massive turning ability, drag strips are fun but its point to point speed I like pikes peak etc good day to you sir.
james.kehren said:Hey, nice scooter.
I have one of these too.
I was hoping you could possibly give me some information on your scooter.
1) do you know what the amp draw of this scooter is with the stock batteries and the voltage drop at full load? I am trying to build a custom scooter from the ground up and I am trying to size the motor. I know this scooter is 1600W @48V nominal, so I am assuming 12.7x4=50.8V. 1600/50.8=30.5A.
So it comes stock with 4-12AH batteries in series. We are trying to draw 30.5A and this battery bank is only rated for 12AH. So what I am getting at is, what is the total power (W) that I am actually getting with the stock setup.
Did you add the hill climb kit? I actually got more speed with the hill climb kit because the gearing was so poor from the get go.
2) do you know the thread diameter and pitch for the rear hub free wheel?
3) did you have to mod your suspension at all or did it work from the box?
4) would you be interested on checking out my scooter build when I get going on it and possibly giving a little help?
ElectricGod said:your welcome...glad I could post all that stuff for you and then not even get a thanks for my effort.
Ianhill said:ElectricGod said:your welcome...glad I could post all that stuff for you and then not even get a thanks for my effort.
Nice update, Maybe trump being elected has pushed him over the edge
grabbed his scooter like a mad man with out a care put his high gear on climbed the largest mountain he could find and tried his new idea to fly with a electric scooter and parachute
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Or he just could be busy. I give information to make the world a better place I need no thanks to know I done a good thing, others can read this thread too. We not all cut from the same cloth and a mothers morals may not be passed down, I'm glad I had an amazing upbringing teaching me right from wrong say please and thank you but never be someone's fool.
Ianhill said:That things a monster, its designed for a prop to get 18kw out of it, But it should run 10kw with a sprocket and natural convection with no heat problems, Because its designed to fit a prop straight on there would be a fair amount of standoff on the sprocket from the motor but means the windings are highly visible it would at least give a bit of distance to make a guard to keep chain oil etc out.
Ianhill said:If the extension is removable then that's a very nice motor not gonna get 18kw anymore compact than that outrunners are the best when it comes down power density but struggle at being as stable as an inrunner at very high rpm, Perfect choice for your needs make a one man rocket
E-ScooterDude said:E-God, would you please send me some info on your aluminum wheels: manufacturer, where purchased, how you chose your hubs, etc.
Also, where did you get your 219 chain/sprockets for the new hub?
Thanks
BTW: Great Posts!
Ianhill said:I read somewhere that 35kw is about enough juice to power a family hatchback at a decent pace. They use multiple thin strands to keep skin effect low as these motors can be switching quite fast at higher rpm specially with all the poles. There's room for copper though in there loads of it, Your getting into some serious power when Big Bertha is getting lively god help.
E-ScooterDude said:Thanks for the info and links. I spent a lot of time looking around the internet and felt that the smart thing to do was contact you.
I apologize for the confusion but I know you have an inrunner setup. By "hubs" I meant the wheel hubs that mount the wheels to the axles. Getting everything to line up, getting the right bolt patterns, spacing, etc.... looked like a big job and knowing exactly what to order would be a huge help.
I'm not going fast enough yet to reach the stability issues that you did with your factory wheels, but you know that won't last too long. The "need for speed" is strong =)
I want to thank you for all the great info in this thread. You come up with, and test, some of the best ideas. I too feel that this platform is an excellent one to get started with. The huge battery box, robust construction, and large tires were my attraction to this model.
From what I can tell, the "2017 48V" model incorporates some of your ideas that you passed along to HyperPowerSports.
I have some pretty big plans, mostly with off the shelf stuff. When I get further along I want to post my progress.
E-ScooterDude said:Wow, tons of great info. I have read your whole thread and this is an excellent summary of my notes on your various adventures. I appreciate not having to “re-invent the wheel” on all this stuff.
I will start a new thread once I get going. I have learned a lot from you and I expect that there are riders out there that could benefit from what works and what doesn’t with my project.
I guess I better tell you my plans and get your opinion (nothing is purchased yet).
1. I agree that the hydraulic brakes are the way to go (thanks for all the great info on those), I also really like the aftermarket wheels. Once I have the new E-system parts, I plan on keeping all high tension wires as short as possible and using the silicon 8awg/6awg and high current connectors that you specified. As big as feasible seems to be the way to go for high current/low loss.
2. I don’t do any riding at night or in the rain. I still plan to “moisture proof” the components as much as possible.
3. Performance goals: I would like to get a 20 mile range averaging 25 mph with a top speed of 35-40 mph. It’s hilly where I live so torque is appreciated.
4. I have looked at the sites you provided for 219 parts. I plan to order that stuff when I’ve finalized on the other upgrades. I may still want to experiment with ratios so I can fine-tune to my needs. I have ideas for a chain slack tensioner that I want to try. I’ll also get the aftermarket drop-out tensioners that you have.
5. Battery upgrade: I have found a 50V/40A, 23.6Ah, 14S8P, Samsung 30Q NCA (LiNiCoAl) pack that will fit in the battery box and still provide room for some emergency parts and tools (carefully wrapped of course). I don’t want to have anything external just yet. This battery does not come with a fuse. I agree that fuses don’t really work in our environment.
6. Controller upgrade: I like the Kelly KEB48301X. I also like the Infineon 12F3077 (I think you were referring to a “Grinfineon” and I’m not sure if they are the same). I like features of both and I’m interested in your thoughts. I plan to use the CycleAnalyst V3.
7. Motor upgrade: I like the Golden Motor 48V HPM3000B with air cooling. I’m expecting quality hall sensors and windings. I think 3000W should get it done, and the complete 48V system should be pretty efficient. I did consider 60V/2000W all the way around but space was becoming an issue in the battery box. I also didn’t have as many choices on 60V systems.
Based on all of this, do you think I’ll achieve my performance goals?
Thanks again for your help.