Duct Tape E-Bay Lifepo4s???

albie said:
Link said:
Woo, 100kph! That's like 62mph. You sure your motor can take it? I mean, geeze. I'm worrying about running twin BD36s at 50mph.

What kind of bike is this going on? I don't see the batteries taking that kind of amperage unless you're on a recumbent or something.

if you have a look at my sig we did 72v and only got 60ish kph... the reason being due to wind resistance. I'm guesstamating here with 96v it would probably be around 70-80kph.

I'm assuming top quality batts and a really high current limit. 4110's might be good enough :wink:.

albie said:
yes your probably thinking i am nuts but hey someone has to do it!

Hardly. I'd slap an Etek on a mountain bike, if I got the chance :twisted:.
 
Albie! Don't do it! You'll kill yaself. Don't become the first cyclist killed on our roads this year.
Please, please, listen to the voice of reason!
You don't want me to warn the local boys do you??
Please , be safe out there.
Seriously, if you wanna go those speeds, get a small ICE m/cycle and modify that. At least you'll have decent suspension and brakes for those speeds.
 
bikeraider said:
Hi Albie,

I don’t know if your pack look’s like mine. But my 48 Volt 20 Ah is nothing then (2) 24 Volt 20 Ah pack connected in series and the BMS monitor all of those cells for to much current discharge (35 A) and it’s cut the voltage as a LVC and is serve when you charged them to.

Hi all my pack is just like that under the duct tape the packs are actualy 4Series LiFe cells in either 2,3 or 4 parallel, these packs are then made into packs of the voltage wanted they are then linked together (in this case circut board with extra solder) butto get a good shaped pack the pack somtimes has to be made of more than one row of cells.As you said the thing that makes the pack is to put an approprate bms in and link it to all of the series connections.


bikeraider said:
If your pack is made like mine the only solution I saw, is to find a way to disconnect those BMS on each pack when you ride. In your case, if you keep that way, i buy a LVC from Gary to monitor all of those 32 cells to protect your pack for low cut of voltage. Is the first point and you also needed a programmable controller or controller that respect the maximum discharge capacity of about 1.5C for those pack.

I have a question, why you didn’t use a 72 Volt like 3 x 24 15 Ah= 72 Volt 15 Ah. And keep the last pack for cells parts to fix defective one if it’s happened. I think a 72 Volt is really go fast. And 100 volt for me is only a kill machine ebike, I hope you have really good suspension on your ebike for the 96 Volt setup.

Have a nice day!
Bikeraider
from what the second half of your post said to up the voltage from say 48V 20Ah to 72V 20Ah
get the 2 packs and do the following
1 put them in series
2 treat as separate for charging
3a for discharge disconnect the BMS wires from the packs
3b have a LVC board in place to protect the cells in the packs
3c use somthing like a cycle analyist set to cut at the correct low voltage

have I got this about right.
 
This may sound like a stupid question, but when do I unplug my charger (24V 20ah). I read where it could take 10 hours to balance the batteries that that the charger would alternate between red and green while balancing. After less than 1 hour my charger light turned green and 2 hours later I have yet to catch it red. Is it possible that my battery is already balanced? What are the odds?
 
SimonMTL said:
stevero2001 said:
Sorry, but you only mentioned 10a and 15a. I never saw you mention 20ah.

It ain't easy getting those Lifepo4's! Anyways, with yet another winter storm on our doorsteps, I'm far from doing anything electric for the next few months it seems! I'll just keep watching. I'm betting on pretty much anything right now that Ping will produce (10, 15, 20); guess I'll just let people around here know before betting, and reading up on who is also, so we can all be civil and each get our Ping battery at a good price! :wink:


Simon,

Again, I'm sorry about stealing your battery. You can do as another suggested and try to get a second chance offer, or make a larger bid (the highest you're willing to pay) on the next one you try. It only increments from the current bid by $5 and then autobids for you up to your limit in case someone tries to steal from you at the last second. I learned that lesson the last time I tried to bid.

On the positve side, I did get an email this morning from journey thanking me for the payment and asking what size of battery I wanted, so he can customize it.

One thing I found surprising is, both anna and journey have all positive feedback, so they don't appear to have any bad transactions. One thing puzzling though is anna had her last feedback on Feb 19. Why no feedback since then? She has 14 positives on battery sales. I may have been overly paranoid to reject her backdoor paypal payment. With new_journey, he has only one battery sale in his feedback. Of the two, it appears that anna is really the safer bet, with more experience.
 
albie said:
well if there is a person e**e driving up the price... don't bid on it... simple as that.

Exactly.

If e**e is a real person, he will stop when he gets as many packs as he wants.

If he is a shill, he will stop when the vendor cannot sell any overbidded product.

You know ... you could just contact these folks privately, get a quote, and pay to have a battery made up. You don't need to deal with this e**e guy at all.
 
http://www.gebattery.com.cn/

http://www.cheer-ocean.com/

Why bother with e-bay at all.. if you guys INSIST on screwing yourselves over.. may as well go all the way.. lol..

My understanding of the whole way it works : ( might be wrong.. )

Cheer ocean has representatives/sellers/agents/schmucks that gather sales on the behalf of GE battery, they give themselves american names like Anna, Carolyn, etc.. and have no idea what they are selling, all they need/care is to make a buck.. so " Yes " is the standard answer to just about anything until you have a problem.

Then if/when a problem happens, they need to " apply " to the factory for a warrantee.. then they can blame the factory when they can do nothing for you.. " Sorry " ..

I DO NOT recommend buying from these people, i repead.. I DO NOT RECOMMEND these people.. but knowing this might help some of you decide what's best and what's not... :(
 
The winning bid for the 48v 15ah battery on Anna's site was $460. There were no other bidders. Since I can't get a response from Anna, I don't suppose a winning price matters.

At this point, I can just simply state what I need. I know that Bob is selling LifeBatts, but my impression has been that they are too expensive. (Mind you, I think making a profit is fine, and everyone should get reasonable compensation for their labor.)

However, the market for this battery type is so strained and wierd right now, it is difficult make a good purchase decision. So, I think I will just state what my needs are, and see if I get a response from anyone in this group. (Right!)

I'm looking for two 48v 15ah LIFEPO4 batterys. At least 2C, I should think. I plan to run them in parallel to drive a 4840 Clyte controller, in turn driving a Phoenix Cruiser.

If these packs were to be prismatic, like Lifebatt, I would need the cells in single file, to make a rather long, skinny shape, to fit the aluminim containers I'll be constructing to hold them on the bike. I'm willing to pay somewhere around $1200 as a max price for the two, if charger(s) and BMS's are included. Any sellers willing to do that? If not, please provide a price you will go with.

Thanks,
steveCA

(BTW, if my post is too commercial for this forum, please let me know, and I'll refrain.)
 
I've tried to compare the cells in the pack I've just received from Li Ping with those on the Cheer Ocean and GE sites linked above.

As far as I can tell they are not from these sources at all, as the cell size doesn't match any of those listed - it's not even close. The cells in the pack I have are 4950mA each, 3.2V nominal per cell, with individual cell dimensions of 135mm x 100mm x 4mm. The 36V, 10Ah pack is arranged as 12S2P.

My guess is these duct tape batteries are coming from another source, but I don't know where.

Jeremy
 
I can't see any way to positively identify the cells I have, but shall just use them and see what happens!

The BMS seems to be fairly well designed. I don't know that I can be bothered to try and reverse engineer it, as some of the part numbers are scratched out, but it seems to have two sets of 12 opto-isolators, one bank doing the LVC for discharge, which drive a set of paralleled mosfet switches to turn the pack off and the other bank doing the charge balancing function. It looks as if the whole lot is driven by a PIC microcontroller or similar.

The BMS also has an over-current cut-off, with a fairly typical Chinese style shunt that looks just like the ones in the Crystalyte controllers.

Overall the circuit board seems well made, with no dodgy looking soldering or connectors.

To be honest, I bought this cheap pack as an experiment, so didn't want to waste loads of cash on something that might not work as I want it to. Leaving aside the duct tape, the quality of the workmanship and the parts in the BMS looks very good to me.

Dealing with Li Ping was a pleasure, and the pack arrived in the UK less than a week after I paid for it. I didn't get hit for taxes or fees when it arrived here either, which was a bonus.

I'm not expecting earth shattering performance, or extreme reliability, and am under no illusions about this battery being up to the same quality standards of some others, but if I get to prove whether or not my ideas work then it will have been money well spent. Anyway, I don't know where else I could have bought a 36V 10Ah LiFePO4 battery, complete with charger and BMS, for around $300 including shipping, this has to be well under half the price of a similar package from one of the quality suppliers.

2312473035_587c755f10.jpg


BMS top view


2313282366_35b551c00b.jpg


BMS underside view
 
kbarrett said:
albie said:
well if there is a person e**e driving up the price... don't bid on it... simple as that.

Exactly.

If e**e is a real person, he will stop when he gets as many packs as he wants.

If he is a shill, he will stop when the vendor cannot sell any overbidded product.

You know ... you could just contact these folks privately, get a quote, and pay to have a battery made up. You don't need to deal with this e**e guy at all.

If you click on e***e and look him up, his status is a "powerseller." Mmmmmmmmmmmmm.
 
Hi all
bikeraider I have a 48v pack at the moment and besides the fact that I have split it into two 24v packs with a single bms.
I made the pack as follows:-
the original pack came as 2 rows of 24v which made spliting easy.
the tape was removed then each wire was cut individualy and labeled a few of the bms wires came off the solder points they were taped back in place ready for soldering.
two 30a wires were cut to half a metre in length,one was attached to the positive cable with the metal out of a terminal block rated for cookers 30A once connected sleaved in heat shrink.
half a metre of 8 way cable was used to connect the bms wires back to the bms again all 10 wires are done with connectors
This has proved to me that it can be done the battery was given its first full discharge without a glitch, more on that in a separate post.
 
Freddyflatfoot said:
Albie! Don't do it! You'll kill yaself. Don't become the first cyclist killed on our roads this year.
Please, please, listen to the voice of reason!
You don't want me to warn the local boys do you??
Please , be safe out there.
Seriously, if you wanna go those speeds, get a small ICE m/cycle and modify that. At least you'll have decent suspension and brakes for those speeds.

At the moment... i am doing a fair bit of research for the suspension and brakes.

I think for something stupid like the setup i want needs custom or expensive parts.

For example, battery packs are the biggest limiting factor. Even if the BMS was able to cope with them being hooked up in a series, the amp draw would kick the BMS protection.

Brakes and suspension, definitely needa FS bike with some real meaty disc brakes. I know someone who is doing a custom frame / setup for this so i'll be sourcing that from them once I have funding for it. From what i've been told it is pretty much a dirtbike frame so it should be able to handle all the extra forces.
 
Yeah guys, I just got mine running tonight. I have it in my stealth and am pretty much willing to call the stealth a doen deal. :mrgreen:

Heres a video of us toying with it in the parking lot.

http://lesbaru.com/stuff/stealthwheelie.wmv

That whining sound is caused by the new controller, I personally think it sounds cool.

The BMS also seems to be doing its job, limiting output to 35 amps or so. I'm going to go for range once I find a seat that doesent dig into my crotch. Right now though I should be able to commute for a week on one charge.
 
After reading through 42 pages of posts I thought it would be easier to start a new thread so my questions don’t get lost.

I plan on building my first e-bike using a 36volt 500W 26" Front wheel kit similar to the goldenmotor kit.
The kit includes
Hub/motor, tire,tube,Speed controller, Twist grip throttle, Electric brakes, Led Battery gauge, Easy 36V charger(for SLA batteries)

My question is, would you guys recommend using one of pings 36V 10Ah pack? Now keep in mind I’m a total noob here. I thought it would be a simple plug and play kind of deal but when I see people talking about wiring a fuse before the bms and polarity for charging it gets confusing.

Hopefully you guys are friendlier then the guy at the bike shop I talked to. His advice was to just buy one of his kits+bike for $1600 :(

PS is this all learnable for some one with out a degree in chemistry or electronics :D
 
all you need to know is in that thread... you should ask your questions there.
 
I disagree. Not everyone wants to wade thru 40+ pages. Would be ideal to have a wiki post feature or something similar to summarize the 40 pages and growing but I don't think this board offers that option so I think a condensed thread would be useful.
 
basically you just get it, you follow the instructions on the instruction sheet if they have one, check it looks very intact when it arrives, the hard bit for a beginner is arranging the plugs for the charger which involves three wires of different colours and choosing the right plugs, otherwise it's just lots of little things you have to gain experience of, be very careful with the terminals of the battery, all the high-power wiring, make a decent container, be cautious with how much it charges and discharges so you know the levels and so on. then you will be up there with us battlewisened, heroic, veteran, battery people:)
 
Quick summary:

Duct tape packs discovered on eBay.
Someone here buys pack to check it out.
Works fairly well.
Other people buy packs.
They discover that Anna and New Journey (while they haven't actually ripped anybody off) are a less pleasant sell than Ping.

General Technical details (oxymoron, much?):
They cannot be put in series. The FETs can't take it. However, by using a large high-current diode across each pack, this can be done safely.
They are soft cells, so they need a durable case.
They are not meant for high discharge rates. Even 2C is pushing it for these cells.
The jury is still out on their cycle life.

Also, there was something about a fried guinea pig, references to Ypedal's dog, and something about a T-Rex saying "Daaaaaaaaaamn". :p

Add whatever I'm forgetting.

Does anybody on here actually have a degree in electronics or chemistry? All I've got is most of a few high school classes and hundreds of hours on the internet researching random stuff (guess which I learned more doing).
 
I just say buy a pack... you should be fine!
 

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