E-Bike electronic basics

Peak Discharge Current: 25A
Nominal Discharge Current: 8.5A
I'm almost certain those specs are per cell, because that seems way too low for getting 2kWh out of the pack with only 54v.. maybe the connections between the cells have super high resistance? I'm not sure, but if it's per cell it seems like a good deal.
 
Also these, just 3 in series is really good capacity for $400 (and yes, disregarding space here) Renault Zoe NMC 24V 73Ah Battery Module
Those, per the specs provided, would at least handle most of the loading your system might put on them.

Still almost 40lbs each, so call it 120lbs of batteries, minimum (plus casings, mountings, etc); like strapping a whole extra person onto your bike.
 
Also, forget what I was saying before with the batteries, how many watts (or just volts/amps) would I need to go 50-60mph? I want the absurdity of 30kw, but at the same time the parts are way too expensive. I could just upgrade it down the line if I REALLY want 30kw some day. I still want some torque, so id probably get a 3.5t motor, and I also want at least decent range, let's say 3-4kWh.
Remember that simulator I keep mentioning? ;)

If you're willing to learn how to use it, it will help you quite a bit.
 
I'm almost certain those specs are per cell, because that seems way too low for getting 2kWh out of the pack with only 54v.. maybe the connections between the cells have super high resistance? I'm not sure, but if it's per cell it seems like a good deal.
Manufacturers of battery packs don't put per-cell ratings on the outside of the packs, they put the rating of the whole pack. 99.999999% of people that use the batteries would have no idea what that means, or how to figure out what the whole pack rating was.

As for why that's the rating, you'd have to buy one then test it at higher currents and see which part blows, fails, overheats, melts, or catches fire. ;)

It could be cells, fuses, interconnects, wiring, etc. Heck, it could even be a typo in the label...but probably not.
 
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