E-Max 90S questions.

[jonescg]

Maybe you did not read the whole tread, but i have 21S of 50AH Lithium-Ion (3,9KWH nominel), not SLA.

My apologies - was hard to see the whole context on the phone.
21s - must go pretty quickly!

 

[offpist1]

Yes, its quick
Pushing 90+ km/h and it gets there very fast.
Quite happy about it.

I also ordered an new rear damper for it, should arrive sometime next week.

 

[jonescg]

Any improvement to the suspension is going to be noticeable right away.

 

[offpist1]

The rear suspension is now perfect..

This winter i will take apart the front suspention and try to find some softer springs to fit.. the front is way to stiff.

 

[olalid]

Interesting thread, I have an E-Max 90S with a broken motor controller, since it is the same type of epoxy covered design as in the pictures in this thread it is very hard to examine it and try to understand what can be wrong with it.
I have had very little luck in finding any information about the original motor controller on the internet, but the schematic in this thread is very interesting information and should make it easier to replace it with something else.

Did you find out everything you posted in this thread by reverse engineering, or did you find some documentation somewhere?

 

[offpist1]

[Moderation: forsale offer in tech forum deleted]

The schematics for it is attached.

 

[olalid]

The manual you attached offpist1 mentions an LED code reference table, but it is not included in the document.
My controller does flash some pattern on the LED, so would kind of be interesting to find out what it means, in case the problem is actually external to the controller...
So if anyone knows about those codes, please let me know.

Otherwise, well, for the right price I can perhaps be interested in the original controller, do you have any idea what you want for it?
I was originally thinking I wanted something more robust and potentially better performance, since it seems from what I read that these controllers break quite easily.
But of course just replacing it with an equivalent is a lot easier...

I am not interested in another complete scooter, actually I was not planning on keeping mine either in the long run.

 

[whereswally606]

from the file in the software manual filename begins E2 - ...



hope this helps

 

[olalid]

Great, thanks.

Interesting, mine is blinking 6 times.
Which either is "Scooter disabled", whatever that means (it does say "Vehicle disabled" in the instrument cluster display), or side stand out.
As I remember it when the side stand is out, it displays a message more specifically about that in the display, does it not?

 

[whereswally606]

yeah I think you get side stand out message on the display.

 

[squall.eu]

Thanks.
I measured the voltage on the "speed (11)" wire and it gives out 5V.
If i repeatedly short to ground the needle moves up a little. Fastest i can do by hand is moving the needle to 5 km/h.
But at-least I know what kind of signal i need.

I also connected the brake and boost wire from the bike to the controller so now it regenerates even more when brake is applied.
The most i could see is +25A at 84V, so about 2kW.

I also increased the output from the controller from 70% to 80% so now it draws 145A at 86V so about 12KW peak short therm (from the battery). That gives more than enough acceleration, and so far the hub motor does seem to handle it without overheating.

Hi,
would you be able to advise on how have you managed to get brake and boost switches working with Kelly? Old Proud Eagle MCU switches everything to the GND, while Kelly needs +12V switching signal, so they seem incompatible?
Also Kelly KLS-H series have Hall Meter output on PIN8, which connected to PIN 11 on MCU operates the speedometer.

 

[Rocooo222]

The rear suspension is now perfect..

This winter i will take apart the front suspention and try to find some softer springs to fit.. the front is way to stiff.

Hi. For whitch scooter model shock did you take?