E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[Rix]

Hi All,
First post in 15 years!! as an old member of ES (old account account seems irretrievable) seems a few of the guys from way back now have companies andare making some great bikes?
Can anyone bring me up to speed on the LMX? are they still going? is Adam "bzhwindtalker" from the sphere? he always had jumpable mid drives.
if any owners would be kind enough to bring me up to speed that would be great, I am catching up on the thread, but it's looong, I'm just looking for some feedback on how this bike is doing, no posts for while so i'm hoping alls well and the bike is still available to buy?

D

I have been here for about 13 years now. So has Cowardly Duck, he's a moderator, hit him up with a PM with any questions you may have, he has a lot of rider R&D going on with the LMX.

 

[Joe]

I actually did it. I cut my frame. (Not a lot)
1040watts 20Ah 21700 HL hailong battery.
Fits perfectly. Now I pulling 3200watts peak.
It’s increased my range on full power.
Increased the max power settings to 60amps. No problem.

 

[hkj]

I actually did it. I cut my frame. (Not a lot)
1040watts 20Ah 21700 HL hailong battery.
Fits perfectly. Now I pulling 3200watts peak.
It’s increased my range on full power.
Increased the max power settings to 60amps. No problem.

Nice job! On a side note, does anyone know what type of power the default BMS need to handle? My battery is dead. Looking at repair or replacement.

 

[amberwolf]

Nice job! On a side note, does anyone know what type of power the default BMS need to handle? My battery is dead. Looking at repair or replacement.

BMSes are normally rated by current, not power, so you should look at your controller's maximum continuous current limit, and it's peak current limit, and get a BMS that can physically handle that.

BUT: You must also use a BMS that is not going to allow more current than the cells are designed for, peak or continuous.

If you find your controller current needs are higher than your cells can do, then you will need to either:
--turn the controller's current down if it can be,
or
--change the controller for one with lower current needs than the cells can supply,
or
--change the cells for ones that can handle the current required by the controller.
Etc.


Most people with "BMS problems" actually have cell problems, something wrong with one or more of them triggers the BMS to protect them by turning off. Or they have a system that requires more from the cells than they can give, and so the BMS shuts down to protect them. Etc.

 

[Lwing]

Hi everyone,
just see that these bikes are clearing out pretty cheap in Canada, first thing I did was google replacement battery, range extender, nothing came up, is parts availability a concern? batteries? Support? Reliability?
Im not qualified to build batteries, retired and would rather just ride,
thanks

 

[dhk]

Hi all,

1. When I pedal, the display 750c always has the continuous high frequency electric buzzing sound/noise.
Is it normal? Can we solve this?
2. The highest speed I can get through the twist is 50km/h. I would like to ask how I can get a higher speed?
3. I'm not satisfied with the battery. Like today I ran out the battery in only 32km using both pedal and twist.
Can you give me any advice to add a new spare mini battery? I don't want to get another 52V JS-14S5P, adding another one would be too heavy.
4. Can I get a 60V/72V battery instead of a 52V battery? Is it allowed? Will it help to get more speed and torque?

 

[Blake2020]

Hi all,

1. When I pedal, the display 750c always has the continuous high frequency electric buzzing sound/noise.
Is it normal? Can we solve this?
2. The highest speed I can get through the twist is 50km/h. I would like to ask how I can get a higher speed?
3. I'm not satisfied with the battery. Like today I ran out the battery in only 32km using both pedal and twist.
Can you give me any advice to add a new spare mini battery? I don't want to get another 52V JS-14S5P, adding another one would be too heavy.
4. Can I get a 60V/72V battery instead of a 52V battery? Is it allowed? Will it help to get more speed and torque?

32km using both? That’s a worry. How was the ride home with a flat ebike?

People have done battery upgrades and have used higher voltages.

 

[Blake2020]

I actually did it. I cut my frame. (Not a lot)
1040watts 20Ah 21700 HL hailong battery.
Fits perfectly. Now I pulling 3200watts peak.
It’s increased my range on full power.
Increased the max power settings to 60amps. No problem.

What did you have to do aside from upgrade the battery and cut the frame? Looks like a great result. How’s the extra range?

 

[Joe]

Hi Blake2020.
Haven’t been here for a long time. After installing the battery. I loaded my highest configuration and did a full auto tune, that’s it. Arh you have to tell the controller the battery size. I just installed the 50mm motor. Today. It says it has 10 poles. I set it up with 5 by mistake but it still runs. Just charging the battery and will do a new full auto with 10 poles. The 50mm motor fits in without any problem. I have to tap the screw holes and spin the holding bracket to the correct place. I cut of the connectors from my old 30mm motor and soldered them onto the new wires. Apart from that. Very easy job.
Croydon. Have you a config recommendation for the 50mm motor.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Nice upgrade! And I thought 40mm was the max size motor!
Going from the 30 to 50mm motor you must notice an improvement in torque and it should barely ever get hot.

My 40mm motor improved the heat soak on climbs quite a bit, but doesn't make much more torque for the same power over the 30mm.

How much did the 50mm motor set you back?

Cheers

 

[Joe]

120$ plus shipping. 100$. So 220$. I haven’t try it out yet. Only took it for a quick spin. I was on the IPM40 before. Just couldn’t resist going for the 50. I thought it would fit. And Yes it does. ChatGPT is now working out the best setup for the 3 modes. Normal, race, and boost. It also figured it out that the Nucular is 5 pairs so that’s 10 poles. So I have the right auto tune. The bigger battery lets me go about 10km more. I was normally at 32 in full power mode. But switching in between to a lower mode give loads more. I’ve riden on low mode over 100km. But the high mode eats into the battery. But 42km is not bad. I think my next move is an even bigger battery and more frame cutting. But that’s in a couple of years. The LMX64 is very versatile.

 

[GeoC]

Wow what a great up grade!

 

[Joe]

ChatGPT has now given me the settings.
I’m happy to share.
My get home mode is when I realise. It’s better to be slow than to push.

Controller → Motor Setup

• Control Mode: FOC
• Pole Pairs: 5
• Spin Direction: Forward
• Interpolate Halls: ON
• Hall → Sensorless: 1.00 rad/s
• Interpolation Start: 15–20 rad/s
• Frequency Control: 50 Hz
• MTPA: ON
• Motor Temp Sensor: OFF (unless fitted)

Controller → Boost

• Boost Square Current: ON
• Boost Current: 100A (max your firmware allows)
• Boost Speed: 0.50 rad/s

Controller → Battery

• Battery Type: Li-Ion
• Cells: 14S
• Capacity: 20Ah
• Supply Max: 58.8V
• Supply Min: 42.0V
• Discharge Max: 65A
• Charge Max: 0A (no regen)

Controller → Control Modes

Mode 1 — Get Home

• Phase 1: 60A
• Battery 1: 12A
• Power 1: 0.0 kW
• Speed 1: 80%

Purpose:

• Maximum range
• Limp-home mode

Mode 2 — Daily Ride

• Phase 2: 180A
• Battery 2: 45A
• Power 2: 0.0 kW
• Speed 2: 130%

Purpose:

• Fast road/trail riding
• Good efficiency

Mode 3 — Beast

• Phase 3: 200A (your firmware limit)
• Battery 3: 65A
• Power 3: 0.0 kW
• Speed 3: 200%

Purpose:

• Maximum acceleration
• Maximum top speed available from current gearing

Controller → Braking / Field Weakening

• Braking Phase: 0A
• Braking at Speed: 0A
• Braking at 0% Throttle: 0A
• Reverse Current: 30A
• Field Weakening: 30A

You are already successfully running 30A FW.

Controller → Current Change Speed

• Acceleration: 10000 A/s
• Braking: 50 A/s
• Shutdown: 2000 A/s

 

[Joe]

PS. After making all the changes. Do a full auto set up. Then save to the controller. Then save to your micro chip. Then load the micro chip in mode 3. ( that my legel mode. No throttle, walk mode, no more power than a standard ebike). Save this to the controller. Chip out before saving. Only when I load the chip, is the LMX free to run. I never save the configuration after loading. Meaning. You have full power, but all will be lost, if, you Turn off the controller. Turn on the controller. Ebike settings are loaded. All the good stuff from the power mode 6 are saved to the controller. But the power modes are changed back to mode 3 as standard. Meaning you have everything stored apart from the performance. It works a treat.

 

[Joe]

E motorcycle ,Ebike, E-Bike for children, light motor

manufacturer, supplier in China of small IPM motorfor children Ebike

www.senlimotors.com

This is the IPM50 motor manufacturer

 

[Joe]

Ask for. 50IPM SHAFT D 14 out 12MM 4MM 142X105