E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Rix said:
Rodney64 said:
Good ride to work and home today. Passed by a motor cycle policeman and never got a glance even when doing 35. This Phasors real stealth.



51 km to work and back
11.85 amp hours used
Average speed 31.7kms per hour
Time 1-35
21.9 amp hour/km
And pack down to 89.5 volt
612 Kms total travelled and going well.

The bike in its current set up is good for an average speed of 45kms per hour with a cadence of about 70-80. 40 is very comfortable.


Good info, how's that 3580 holding up? Getting hot on you?

Rix

Riding home warm to touch both the controller and the motor. But I pedal and try to keep amps below 10. When it pulls 30-50 amps yes it gets hot.

Deutch the 14 tooth will fit on the rear it did on mine but needed a 12 tooth to change up.

Rod
 
Deutch420 said:
bummer that the motor won't fit. Maybe asking them to make the dropouts a little wider would have been your best bet. Where did you buy the single speed freewheel? I'm looking for one, when I get a chance to buy one of those H4060 motors 8)
Nice color mate hope you get everything in working order soon.
 


Good your getting close Korpin. I had this issue and to counter it put a road dual sprocket on the front.

This addressed the issue to give a better range of gears.

14 tooth will not work on the rear it as theres not enough clearance. Needs to be a 12 tooth

NOT sure I understand how having two front sprockets helps with the angle??
 
I haven't had any trouble with the chain line. But after looking again your bikes going to be a single speed.

If you do get a a double sprocket on the front it will give you 2 positions and my help with reducing the angle
 
Deutch420 said:
My frame arrived. In the process of buying all my parts now. Ill post more pictures as i go. Everything looks great so far!! My seat stem has a dent in it, i presume from transit. Otherwise it looks GREAT!!
Currently i have my 5403 on the frame. Its going to be a tough fit. I know Phasor doesnt suggest using the Cromotor or the larger sized Clytes (53xx, 54xx), but i plan to do just that. 8)
Current clearance issues i already see are: Phase/Hall wires have no where to exit the dropout due to the motor being so wide. I think i can make room though. Clearances are tight. 17 tooth single freewheel wont clear. Im going to try a frewheel with less teeth. I think fitting a rear break would be more of a headache than its worth. With the lack of room to work with, due to the large size of the 5403, it would take some major bracket fabrication to make everything fit. I personally dont think its worth the headache as i plan to hook up regen to my rear brake lever. If users used the motors Phasor suggests, you should NOT have these issues.
I was able to fit in 24x of the 4S 5ah Hardcase LiPo packs from hobbyking inside the frame with more than enough room left for wires, andersons and my 18FET controller. so 24s4p (100v, 20ah) should be my minimum. I didnt receive my 24FET yet, so i dont know about fitment.
More pics to come!!

Deutch, looking at the pics, you got the 5403 on backwards in the swingarm. Or is that the only way you could fit it for illistration purposes, can't wait to see the final build.

Rix
 
Rix said:
Deutch, looking at the pics, you got the 5403 on backwards in the swingarm. Or is that the only way you could fit it for illistration purposes, can't wait to see the final build.

Rix

No I was just careless and put it on backwards for the picture. The clearances look identical with it on the correct way. Nothing a smaller freewheel can't fix.

Does anyone know how hard you can really ride those 3" rims? I will never hit any 10ft cliffs with the bike, but I may drop or jump 3 ft and trail bash rooty trails. Ide love to get them for my build but want to make sure they won't bent with the first root I bash at 25 mph. Opinions?
 
Deutch,
If comparing the same tire on different rims, the advantages of the wide rims is that it really flatens out the knobs and makes the sidwalls stiffer and lower. The negative is your shorter side wall may increase your chances of flatting and damaging the rim if running tires at the lower end of the air pressure range. The narrower rims will cause your tires to be slightly taller which decreases your chance of flatting and damaging the rims, but tires will have more lateral flex because of the higher profile and will not have the precise handling that the wider rim affords. Not sure if this answer your question.

Rick
 
I remember reading somewhere that the builder of the Phasor frame had put a few dents and dings in his own 3" rims and commented how there were "not" downhill rims. I did a little research for myself as I am still considering a Phasor build and pretty much settled on a 24" rim due to the fact the smaller wheels are inherently stronger. (If they are good enough for Stealth then.....) Anyways found a nice HALO SAS 36mm wide rim from Chain Reaction UK.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26271
 
If I ever build up a phasor, I will be using these rims. They are 24" x 1.75 Odyssye Hazard Lite rims, they come in chrome, (shown below), black, and red. they are 44 mm wide and are super tough. The Halos Morarti referenced also look tough though, just a little narrower.

Rix
 
NIce vid Rod, looks like your averaging 60+ KPH on the road. Nothing like a nice sunday rid with nice weather. Rix
 
Rix said:
NIce vid Rod, looks like your averaging 60+ KPH on the road. Nothing like a nice sunday rid with nice weather. Rix


Yes nice day Rix. It was a 35 km round trip. Most of it was on cycle paths around swampy reserves. 35-40kms is my speed on the road it's a good cadence. In the last 2 minutes I opened it up. The controller was maxing out at 50 amps but managed 90 kms per hour. Only do this on a straight streach with no side roads with it clear behind and infront. A nice way to finish off a Sunday ride
 
hey rodney! I see that you listed maxinum speed at 90 kph....was wondering what amps/voltage was at that speed?...because the guys over at high power cycles doing my bike say I Will get close to 80 kph at about 90-100 volts and 50 amps...hope they are right they have their motors/controllers custom built for them...also what is your total amp hour for the pack you are using now?
 
Korpin, this is the first time I've tested this controller for speed.
I'm running 100.8 volts. HS3580 motor
Lyens 12 Fet set up for the 3580.
The battery discharge rate is 40c. This maybe one of the reasons why this motor keeps winding up.
The battery has 14 usable amp hours if I fully charge. I normally stop the charge at 100 volt


On another subject I'm going to Adelaide in January to ride the cure diabetes ride. This is the 5th time I've ridden and thinking about taking the Phasor. I love it and I couldn't see myself riding a road bike again. Normally i ride the 80k in licra on a road bike but this year taking the wife too so only doing the 40k. This will be the first time that' we have left the kids and gone for more than 1 night. Our 14 year old daughter has type 1.
 
Sounds like an awesome ride, Rod. Show that 200 W sticker proudly! :D

I'm in Sydney this weekend, so it should be great to catch up with Hyena and Abraham.
 
Very much enjoying these vids. Thanks for posting them Rodney. I am still debating whether to build up a Phasor or buy a Stealth. Looks like your Phasor is dialed in nicely now.
 
Thanks Morati. Yes it's a difficult decision to make, Phasor or Stealth. Id sent John at stealth an email 18 months or so back and was contemplating on buying a Bommer. Both have pros and cons. The good thing about the Phasor is if any thing goes wrong you put it together which helps in problem solving. I've just purchased another motor and have a couple of controllers as well. Makes fault finding easy.
 
Rodney64 said:
Thanks Morati. Yes it's a difficult decision to make, Phasor or Stealth. Id sent John at stealth an email 18 months or so back and was contemplating on buying a Bommer. Both have pros and cons. The good thing about the Phasor is if any thing goes wrong you put it together which helps in problem solving. I've just purchased another motor and have a couple of controllers as well. Makes fault finding easy.

Another great video Rod, keep em coming. Also, IMHO, if you have the technical know how (which I dont), building an electric bike with the Phasor frame would probably be more rewarding than buying the prebuilt Bomber/Figther. As pointed out, building your own Ebike teaches you how to trouble shoot and fix problems that may arise. Having said all of this, I think that the Bomber and Fighter are the toughest best built factory produced ebikes on the market hands down. But for the DIY crowd, the Phasor Frame is king. No other frame out there in production compares to the quality and versatility of the Phasor frame. If the builder wants to make the Phasor a light and fast road bike, no problem. If the builder wants a Downhill screamer with hill climbing capabilities, no problem. Its all about the freedom of component selection and what the builder wants to build. For this reason and the learining curve that comes with a custom build, I am seriously thinking about building up a Phasor instead of buying a Fighter to go with my Bomber next year. BTW,which hub motor did you get?

Rix
 
Rix said:
Rodney64 said:
Thanks Morati. Yes it's a difficult decision to make, Phasor or Stealth. Id sent John at stealth an email 18 months or so back and was contemplating on buying a Bommer. Both have pros and cons. The good thing about the Phasor is if any thing goes wrong you put it together which helps in problem solving. I've just purchased another motor and have a couple of controllers as well. Makes fault finding easy.

Another great video Rod, keep em coming. Also, IMHO, if you have the technical know how (which I dont), building an electric bike with the Phasor frame would probably be more rewarding than buying the prebuilt Bomber/Figther. As pointed out, building your own Ebike teaches you how to trouble shoot and fix problems that may arise. Having said all of this, I think that the Bomber and Fighter are the toughest best built factory produced ebikes on the market hands down. But for the DIY crowd, the Phasor Frame is king. No other frame out there in production compares to the quality and versatility of the Phasor frame. If the builder wants to make the Phasor a light and fast road bike, no problem. If the builder wants a Downhill screamer with hill climbing capabilities, no problem. Its all about the freedom of component selection and what the builder wants to build. For this reason and the learining curve that comes with a custom build, I am seriously thinking about building up a Phasor instead of buying a Fighter to go with my Bomber next year. BTW,which hub motor did you get?



Rix


I got the 5305 motor Rix, hoping to still get a top speed of 60kms per hour still. Will have plenty of torque for when going bush. With the stand that I build this should be a simple task to change over. Currently getting it put into a rim with 13 gauge stainless steel spokes. I managed to also get a Norco A line park edition frame my put the 5305 in it.

427D3275-AECC-489E-BE9A-57BD5FA08547-217-00000472B1F63429_zpsad5c6824.jpg
 
Rix said:
Rodney64 said:
Thanks Morati. Yes it's a difficult decision to make, Phasor or Stealth. Id sent John at stealth an email 18 months or so back and was contemplating on buying a Bommer. Both have pros and cons. The good thing about the Phasor is if any thing goes wrong you put it together which helps in problem solving. I've just purchased another motor and have a couple of controllers as well. Makes fault finding easy.

Another great video Rod, keep em coming. Also, IMHO, if you have the technical know how (which I dont), building an electric bike with the Phasor frame would probably be more rewarding than buying the prebuilt Bomber/Figther. As pointed out, building your own Ebike teaches you how to trouble shoot and fix problems that may arise. Having said all of this, I think that the Bomber and Fighter are the toughest best built factory produced ebikes on the market hands down. But for the DIY crowd, the Phasor Frame is king. No other frame out there in production compares to the quality and versatility of the Phasor frame. If the builder wants to make the Phasor a light and fast road bike, no problem. If the builder wants a Downhill screamer with hill climbing capabilities, no problem. Its all about the freedom of component selection and what the builder wants to build. For this reason and the learining curve that comes with a custom build, I am seriously thinking about building up a Phasor instead of buying a Fighter to go with my Bomber next year. BTW,which hub motor did you get?



Rix


I got the 5305 motor Rix, hoping to still get a top speed of 60kms per hour still. Will have plenty of torque for when going bush. With the stand that I build this should be a simple task to change over. Currently getting it put into a rim with 13 gauge stainless steel spokes. I managed to also get a Norco A line park edition frame my put the 5305 in it.

427D3275-AECC-489E-BE9A-57BD5FA08547-217-00000472B1F63429_zpsad5c6824.jpg
 
The 5305, outstanding! You will have mucho torque. Running at a 100v, I guessing you will be closer to 70KPH. Cant wait to see the Phasor in action. Any chance you can make a vid from 2nd person perspective?

Rix
 
Thanks for the words of wisdom Fellas. I have been in touch with David Pearce and lead time on a new Phasor frame is currently about 4-6 weeks so thats not bad at all. Building the bike would be no problem as I have built many mtb's in the past and have all the necessary tools and a good workplace. I have very basic knowledge of electronics and lipo batteries which stems from my R/C hobby. I do however have a company up here that has already offered to build the full electronics part of the bike including prismatic cell pack for the application. Done all my homework and using the best of everything I could put together a nice Phasor for approx. $6-$7,000US. Based on a 100v 40a 3540HS motor it would be 25 lbs lighter than a Bomber and top out around 70km/hr according to my calculations. Maybe not the outright speed of the Stealth but probably a little bit more competant for trail riding. I've have test ridden the Bomber however and I must say that I really liked the handling of it. Looks awesome too.
Rodney, that Norco is gonna be NICE! Can't wait to see the finished product. I've been looking at some mid drives also as they are so much lighter and IMO even better suited to trails not to even mention their greater climbing ability. So many choices.......
 
When your rear suspention is fully compressed, does the bottom of your seat post hit the rc4 adjuster fitting? I was going to buy a fox rc4 9.5x3 500lb spring, but I see u had to mount it upsidedown to get it to fit, which appears to have created clearance issues...??? Can u discuss?

Also, are the spacers on your rc4 22mm? If so, did it all fit well?

8) thanks


Rodney64 said:
 
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