E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Trackman, David was very good with the whole thing and since it was not my fault refunded me in full so after waiting a little while and building up one of my old frames and cracking the chain stay I decided to order another one and I did change the color. My first one was satin black which I liked a lot but this time around went with white after seeing korbin's build. The wait time is about 12 weeks which really sucks but I guess will give me some time to decide on which motor to go with
 
My 4065 is awesome but if I was building a Phasor I'd do the Cro-motor/Methods combo at a minimum/maximum. Which I just might if the housing market ever kinda comes back.

Tom
 
Insider said:
Hi guys,

Is there anyone here who use LiFePo4 within his frame?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if anyone has used LiFePo4 but one of the things that you need to think about with cells in the Phasor frame is that they need to be laid flat. Not on edge. Otherwise they will deform and puff. This is from my experence. The other option is upright. Mine were upright but longways. With the angle of the frame I have supported the cells by making 3 mm ply boxes.

The below cell may work ok. Look for cells that are around 45mm wide. The below pack is a flat pack. this is what you'll need this way you can fit them 2 wide and placed flat on the frame. Remember the frame about 97mm wide and these flat packs are 43mms wide. Still plenty of room for packaging either side.

liFePo4 is a safer option if you have never used lipo or need to store your bike inside. Don't see any reason why it won't work


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10311__Turnigy_4500mAh_6S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack.html
 
Scratch1973 said:
Rix. I have been discussing this topic with Rodney alittle and I think I'm leaning toward either the cromotor setup or the 4065 setup, still not sure. One thing I was concerned with is the drivetrain with the cromotor. Can you use a 7 speed freewheel with it? As far as the rims I was thinking of just having JRH build them up , is that not a good idea??
Click to expand...


I don't think a 7 speed will work but perhaps a 3 speed may work. I've just purchased a 3 speed off eBay for 13 dollars delivered and plan on using it on the 4080 with the moped 17 inch rim. I only use a couple of gears and when the battery runs out and I need to pedal I use the small chain ring on the front.

Ill post measurements when it arrives.
 
Rodney64 said:
Scratch1973 said:
Rix. I have been discussing this topic with Rodney alittle and I think I'm leaning toward either the cromotor setup or the 4065 setup, still not sure. One thing I was concerned with is the drivetrain with the cromotor. Can you use a 7 speed freewheel with it? As far as the rims I was thinking of just having JRH build them up , is that not a good idea??
Click to expand...
I don't think a 7 speed will work but perhaps a 3 speed may work. I've just purchased a 3 speed off eBay for 13 dollars delivered and plan on using it on the 4080 with the moped 17 inch rim. I only use a couple of gears and when the battery runs out and I need to pedal I use the small chain ring on the front.
Ill post measurements when it arrives.
Click to expand...

Rod, cant remember how wide the cromotor is. I heard from axle face to axle face, its about 144mm wide. Not sure about that though.

Rick
 
I'm thinking of trying one of the $13 3 speed freewheel as well. I don't think it will work but will give it a shot.
156 is ideal dropout width for cromotor. David is making mine 160 mm. Ill try out a 3 speed. David says I can also stretch dropouts a few mm more
 
well I fried my wires inside my motor which does not make sense because my current was limited to under 40 and I keep the watts around 2000 and under during climb and always pedal first before I add power...HPC said they would fix it but the motor is rated 4500 watts what size wiring should I have going to motor(guage) they look a little thin to me..the motor has heat sensors but apparently its the wires that are melting before motor gets hot which tells me the wires are too thin
 
dimpirate. Dont most people just go with a single speed freewheel and use a schlumpf on the cromotor? I just put my order in for my frame and would love to go with it but I still am on a budget and not sure I'm gonna have the money for a schlumpf especially after going for expensive motor, controller and batteries. Also David is making a 150 mm swingarm , should I go for 160??
 
Scratch1973 said:
dimpirate. Dont most people just go with a single speed freewheel and use a schlumpf on the cromotor? I just put my order in for my frame and would love to go with it but I still am on a budget and not sure I'm gonna have the money for a schlumpf especially after going for expensive motor, controller and batteries. Also David is making a 150 mm swingarm , should I go for 160??
Click to expand...

Most people do go with single speed thats what I'll do if 3 spd doesn't fit, I won't push it ($13 it's worth a shot)
Yes it is expensive.
156 is good for cromotor. Though more is better than less 160 can't hurt....
 
Is it possible to just go with a single speed setup temporary until I get up some cash to get a schlumpf ?
 
Scratch1973 said:
Is it possible to just go with a single speed setup temporary until I get up some cash to get a schlumpf ?
Click to expand...

Sure, you can always use just a single speed. The good thing with Schlumpf is you'll be able to pedal at much higher speeds
 
Oh that is good to know. Then I will def go with the cromotor and add the schlumpf later. Will I need to use a chain tentioner with the single speed setup having rear suspension? Yes I am very much a newbie to this whole thing. Lol
 
korpin said:
well I fried my wires inside my motor which does not make sense because my current was limited to under 40 and I keep the watts around 2000 and under during climb and always pedal first before I add power...HPC said they would fix it but the motor is rated 4500 watts what size wiring should I have going to motor(guage) they look a little thin to me..the motor has heat sensors but apparently its the wires that are melting before motor gets hot which tells me the wires are too thin
Click to expand...


Korpin it doesn't take long to heat up. I blew my controller and it was only working hard for a few minutes. Once the heat gets into the motor it's hard to remove it. Maybe you need to vent your motor by the sounds of it you do a lot of hill climbing.
 
dimpirate said:
From what I've heard chain tensioner is a must. Maybe someone else knows for sure....
Click to expand...

Dimpirate & Scratch, if you and the other Phasor builders want to use a single speed cog on the rear hub motor, there is no better tensioner than the paul components Melvin. And the beuty of it is you can use washers to shim it to align perfectly on a single speed cog on any frame that has a derailer dropout hanger. The shimming is done by placing washers over the bolt shaft before screwing the tensioner into the derailer hanger on the drop out. The Melvin also provides enough chain slack that a guy could run two chainrings up front say a 32 and 46. Your gear changer would be using your finger to slide the chain back and forth on the front chain rings. Whats neat about this chain tensioner are the super high quality pullies and bearings. Also the tension is much stronger than a standard derailer so you will have less chain slop. Here is a pic of the Melvin. Food for thought.
 

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Thanks Rix. All this is good info espeacially for me while trying to put together all the parts I'm gonna need going with a cromotor knowing that I really can't afford the schlumpf yet
 
And what do u think would be the best setup as far as size of the front sprocket and size of the freewheel if I was just gonna go with a single speed ?
 
Rix said:
dimpirate said:
From what I've heard chain tensioner is a must. Maybe someone else knows for sure....
Click to expand...

Dimpirate & Scratch, if you and the other Phasor builders want to use a single speed cog on the rear hub motor, there is no better tensioner than the paul components Melvin. And the beuty of it is you can use washers to shim it to align perfectly on a single speed cog on any frame that has a derailer dropout hanger. The shimming is done by placing washers over the bolt shaft before screwing the tensioner into the derailer hanger on the drop out. The Melvin also provides enough chain slack that a guy could run two chainrings up front say a 32 and 46. Your gear changer would be using your finger to slide the chain back and forth on the front chain rings. Whats neat about this chain tensioner are the super high quality pullies and bearings. Also the tension is much stronger than a standard derailer so you will have less chain slop. Here is a pic of the Melvin. Food for thought.
Click to expand...
I had found the Melvin a while back couldn't remember name though. As. Advertised I should be able to run a second chainring up to 20t less!! Cool :D
Thanks Rick, this will be getting added to phasor package! :wink:
 
Well to be honest I think that is the only thing I want is something to get the bike home if the battery runs out so I'm looking for the setup for that. Not sure what sizes are best for that. I don't think I'm gonna pedal much while riding
 
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