Rodney64
100 kW
Just hope your right Rick
E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners
- Thread starter Rodney64
- Start date
Kepler
10 MW
Yep, all my research comes to same conclusion.
Bit of trivia. Stealth did use 53xx motors originally but had too many failures. Subsequently they spec'ed up what is now the 54xx series of motors. For a long time they were specifically only supplied to Stealth however market demand persuaded Kenny to release to the general market. Good for us, not so pleasing for Stealth.
Such is life.
Bit of trivia. Stealth did use 53xx motors originally but had too many failures. Subsequently they spec'ed up what is now the 54xx series of motors. For a long time they were specifically only supplied to Stealth however market demand persuaded Kenny to release to the general market. Good for us, not so pleasing for Stealth.
Such is life.
Rix
100 TW
There you have it Rod. I don't see the 54xx going away anytime soon. The only way I see the 54XX series getting replaced is by something thats even more powerful, durable, and lighter. So, are thinking about a 54xx upgrade for the Phasor?
Dlogic told me when he orderd his Bomber a few years back, that the only options available were the 53xx series, I think Stealth was even offering 5303, 5304, and 5305 back then as options for the purchasering consumer.
Rick
Dlogic told me when he orderd his Bomber a few years back, that the only options available were the 53xx series, I think Stealth was even offering 5303, 5304, and 5305 back then as options for the purchasering consumer.
Rick
Rodney64
100 kW
Yes Rick, I'm considering the 5405. Anyone know where I can purchase one from. Getting the rear swing set for 160mm. With all the sand off road I need something that can handle the heat.
The other options the cromotor.
The other options the cromotor.
Rix
100 TW
Let me research this and will PM you.
Rick
Rick
anybody interested in a slightly used fully built phasor?....runs great but thinking of the bomber I like to offroad think i need something a bit more robust in the brake/chain ring department..... in los angeles area...pm if interested has 4065 now may swap to crown motor...
Attachments
Rix
100 TW
korpin said:
With all the time you waited and the $ invested in your ride, I am surprised at your latest post. I can tell you what components you would need on that to make your Phasor more robust. The forks are fine, a Coil over shock wouldn't hurt, the big mods would be heavier duty rear wheel/tire combo and cranks. Everything else you got on your Phasor is sano enough for everything shy of riding the Shore in BC. Go with larger rotors and keep your calipers, I would suggest a 17 or 19 inch offroad motorcycle front wheel rim/tire combo on your Phasor rear with a Cromotor. I have researched tires for both sizes that would definately work on Phasors and Bombers alike. But, I want to give you some food for thought based on your past posts. Weight has always appeared to be a big concern in your prior posts. To build a heavier, stronger, more robust bike, you will gain weight. Doesn't matter if its a Bomber or Phasor. The Bomber weighs close to 120 pounds. If I ran 26" MTB tires on my bomber with lighter rims, went to a 4065 or 4080, and went with a 20s 10AH Lipo battery, I would shave and easy 20-25 pounds off of the Bomber. But the bike wouldn't be nearly as tough as it is now, wouldn't have the range, and even vented, I would probably over heat a 4080 or 4065 at my weight if I didn't ride with some mechanicle sympathy. I wouldn't be able to keep the rear tire from flatting every 5 minutes on the crap I ride. Korpin, point I am trying to make is if you like your Phasor, I can tell you what you need to make it much more robust and how to make it work for you. The Bomber is a super machine that is turn key ready to go. Would I recommend the Bomber, hell yes. Its clearly the best production electric bike made, especially for the money. But the Phasor gives you the freedom to build whatever you want out of it though. And since you already got it going, making it work for you wouldn't be that difficult. My suggestion is do some soul searching, if you sell it and dont take a beating, thats fine, get yourself a Bomber, you wont be disappointed. But if you have to take it in the ass to sell it and not get atleast 75% of your money out of it, I say keep it and I will put togehter a list of components that will make your bike kick ass and stop on dime. The phasor frame is definately strong enough, David has a video posted of the Phasor launching off of a 7 foot drop and handeling the landing with ease. Complemented with the correct components, the Phasor can be a super sweet ride and more than tough enough for offroading. BTW, it sure is a pretty bike in white.
Rick
Trackman417
10 kW
If I were you and you like HPC's set up. Get the bomber and sell the bombers battery and drivetrain. Do some transplanting like what hyena did. Keep the brakes and such that you want from the bomber. Heh, that would be a pretty awesome transplant. 8)korpin said:
You want to sell the bike whole or in peices?
I believe rix' solution is better though. He seems to know what he's doing.... If only a litte
:wink: Good luck with the decisions and such. It would be a shame to let all of that waiting you did go to waste though :|
Rix
100 TW
Thanks for the vote of confidence er sort of anyway
BTW, how is your build coming along?Trackman417
10 kW
Aww man I'm sorry, can't resist the urge sometimesRix said:
Thanks for the vote of confidence er sort of anyway
. I'll send you a pm. I. Don't own a phasor so I'm not going to thread jack with my build.morati
10 kW
Just out of curiosity korpin, what are you looking to get out of it? Beautiful build!korpin said:
Rodney64
100 kW
Bit off topic but at the Perth electricana today
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=47013&p=711890#p711890
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=47013&p=711890#p711890
Rix
100 TW
Rodney64 said:
Hey Rod, you started this thread, you get to do what ever you want to
. I checked out the Clip. That was neat. JonesCg went into the 2nd cornert hotter than anybody else. Sweet!. Glad the tires stayed on the bead. Could have gotten real intresting real quick. When is the next one? Maybe I should try to coordinate with you about fying to Perth for next years event. That looked like a good time.Rick
pendragon8000
100 kW
Hey Rod, just subscribed to you YT channel, in this video you are chargin with the outer balance wires as the power wires. do you notice any heat on wires or anything? how much current to you put through there? I like the idea though, its like my bc168.
[youtube]bR5YxpsA5ag[/youtube]
[youtube]bR5YxpsA5ag[/youtube]
Rodney64
100 kW
pendragon8000 said:
I'm going to get a bc168. Used one the other day. No heat that I noticed. Charger was set on 8 amps.
Yes it was a good day. It's a yearly event Rick held in MarchRix said:Rodney64 said:
Hey Rod, you started this thread, you get to do what ever you want to
Rick
well not entirely sure what I want to do YES the bombers weight IS a big concern but like the regen and big brakes and REALLY like the straight drive chain and gearbox....having some brake issues guess I could always go to bigger brakes OR just go to old fashioned brakes that grab the rim.....my chain has come off several times EXTREMELY irritating!....I guess if I go to crown motor I will only have 5 gears instead of nine that would shorten the chain and then I could install a 26 tooth 1:2.5 shclumph that would probably solve my chain issue..by the way what ever happened to group shclumph buy?
also,I noticed if I lift rear end up and hand spin the rear wheel,it only goes around 3-4 times before coming to stop is this normal???...its not brakes and I removed a few shims in case the swingarm was too tight even with no axle nuts and brake removed it does the same thing...seems like a lot of friction to me but then again this is my first e-bike and first direct drive motor so I am not sure
like to get 6 or 7 out of it got over 9 in....wish I could test drive bomber that weight DOES seem a bit high!...if I could straighten out chain/brake issues I would be happy but looks like another 1000 to me ugh!
also,I noticed if I lift rear end up and hand spin the rear wheel,it only goes around 3-4 times before coming to stop is this normal???...its not brakes and I removed a few shims in case the swingarm was too tight even with no axle nuts and brake removed it does the same thing...seems like a lot of friction to me but then again this is my first e-bike and first direct drive motor so I am not sure
like to get 6 or 7 out of it got over 9 in....wish I could test drive bomber that weight DOES seem a bit high!...if I could straighten out chain/brake issues I would be happy but looks like another 1000 to me ugh!
Rix
100 TW
I call this parasitic drag, and yes, its normal. What you have is a hub shell with a bunch of magnets spinning around a bunch of copper and metal stator parts, and since the magnets want to stick to the stator this creates the drag. I think the ebike term for this is called "the cogging effect" or just "coggin". The reason I say its parasitic is that the same magents that are creating the drag on the hub shell become your best friend when electric current is added to the equation. The more current thats added and the stronger the magets = more fun
This is a big no. Rim break were adequate on cross counrty bikes that didn't do a lot of high speed decending, but on an 80+ pound ebike going 45-50 MPH, you will be replacing the rim pads after every other ride and they are absolute shit when riding in wet weather, or creek crossing. Your disk brakes are a really simple and easy fix. Get yourself a couple Hayes V9 224mm rotors and some caliper extensions. You should be able to find an extension that bolts directly onto your front fork with the existing caliper. The rear may take some filing on the swing arm posts and or extenion mods to get the caliper to be the correct height. Easily done, can be a little time consuming though. The extra large disk diameter will increase your leverage and stopping power immensely with the stock calipers, and to boot, it will take longer to heat them up to the fading point. The only dilema is the chain line issue. As long as you want to run a multiple speed cassette, your chain line will only be perfectly straight in one gear. Going with a single speed free wheel and a Schlumph would give you two speeds and solve your chain line issue. Since the bottom bracket is mounted to the frame and not on the swing arm, you will still need a chain tensioner because your chain tension will fluxuate as the suspension is compressed and extended.
Let me know what you want to do, I can put together a list of components for you to upgrade with to make your machine as tough as any DH Bike. But most likely you will probably sell it for 6-7K. Anybody that has done their research will recognize that good deal.
Rick
Attachments
full-throttle
1 MW
You know what will happen next, right?Rix said:
There will be a picture of an wimpy motorcycle from the 60's, a quote from some unknown german magazine with unknown set of tests and a hell lot of BS from someone having never experienced a set of proper disc brakes :lol:
Rix
100 TW
You know FT, thats funny, but what makes your statement even more comical is that it could happen. Laughing my ass off. :lol:
Rick
Rix
100 TW
Rix said:
Since I posted this comment about the 54xx series not being discontinued, I have received several emails and PMs from people saying that I am incorrect about my information. I also checked out Grin's website and they do list the 5403 DC'd and based on my limited emails with Justin, he is not one to MSU (make shit up). To confirm whether I am talking shit or not, I have sent crystalyte an email and am awaiting their response. If Kenny gives me permission, I will cut and paste this response and hopefully all of us will know whats going on. Either way, I hope to confirm or disconfirm the rumor.
Rick
WELL yes I was expecting some drag from the magnets but also getting a squeeking sounds like the bearings but was told 3-4 revolutions is normalRix said:
I call this parasitic drag, and yes, its normal. What you have is a hub shell with a bunch of magnets spinning around a bunch of copper and metal stator parts, and since the magnets want to stick to the stator this creates the drag. I think the ebike term for this is called "the cogging effect" or just "coggin". The reason I say its parasitic is that the same magents that are creating the drag on the hub shell become your best friend when electric current is added to the equation. The more current thats added and the stronger the magets = more fun
This is a big no. Rim break were adequate on cross counrty bikes that didn't do a lot of high speed decending, but on an 80+ pound ebike going 45-50 MPH, you will be replacing the rim pads after every other ride and they are absolute shit when riding in wet weather, or creek crossing. Your disk brakes are a really simple and easy fix. Get yourself a couple Hayes V9 224mm rotors and some caliper extensions. You should be able to find an extension that bolts directly onto your front fork with the existing caliper. The rear may take some filing on the swing arm posts and or extenion mods to get the caliper to be the correct height. Easily done, can be a little time consuming though. The extra large disk diameter will increase your leverage and stopping power immensely with the stock calipers, and to boot, it will take longer to heat them up to the fading point. The only dilema is the chain line issue. As long as you want to run a multiple speed cassette, your chain line will only be perfectly straight in one gear. Going with a single speed free wheel and a Schlumph would give you two speeds and solve your chain line issue. Since the bottom bracket is mounted to the frame and not on the swing arm, you will still need a chain tensioner because your chain tension will fluxuate as the suspension is compressed and extended.
Let me know what you want to do, I can put together a list of components for you to upgrade with to make your machine as tough as any DH Bike. But most likely you will probably sell it for 6-7K. Anybody that has done their research will recognize that good deal.
Rick
I have 220 rear now think I need 6 piston brakes...think a chain tensioner is the answer too...
the electronics seem to be working now after burning them out a couple times...(personally I think the wires going to motor are a litlle thin for a 4500 watt system....I did notice the crown wires are MUCH thicker....took bike out on a 1700 elevtion steep climb bike made it with one stop 1/3 way up to let motor cool heat sensors never kicked in
Rix
100 TW
Hard to tell but your front looks like a 203mm or maybe it just looks smaller because you have a 26" wheel vs the 24" on mine. But if thats the case, is your rear bigger than your front? You are right, if you have a 220mm on the rear, a 224mm wont make much difference for stopping power.
Rick
You didnt say anthying about the squeeking sound in your initial question. Could be bearings. I had my bearings replaced with high quality SKF units, the are a little noisier sounding to me. I attribute this to the fact that the SKF units have the bearing raced filled with ball bearngs, the chinese race had ball bearings and some spacers in between. It looks like the chinese units could have held 5 or so more ball bearings in the bearing race. You mentioned a while back that HPC had worked over the stock 4065 hub, maybe that was one of the mods. Or the squeeking sound is coming from your disk brake. The important thing is you are up and running. Glad you got the electrics sorted out. DId HPC rewire your halls with thicker guage wire?
Rick
not sure if they put thicker wiring to motor regarding question above because there is only so much room through axle
heres another gripe I have with my phasor frame perhaps this shit has been fixed now:
the hardware..its SAE should be metric to match bike components...also hardware on one side of bike does not match other side!....for example,the allen head bolts for side panels require different size allen hex tool on one side than the other...now I know a lot of you guys are thinking "hey quit your bitchin,just go pick up some allen screws that match!".....but I can't because the THREADS ARE DIFFERENT TOO!!!!
same thing with bolts that hold axle inserts...different size allen hex head AND different threads....I expect better when paying 2000.00 for a frame...all the hardware should have same size hex head AND be metric to match components!
heres another gripe I have with my phasor frame perhaps this shit has been fixed now:
the hardware..its SAE should be metric to match bike components...also hardware on one side of bike does not match other side!....for example,the allen head bolts for side panels require different size allen hex tool on one side than the other...now I know a lot of you guys are thinking "hey quit your bitchin,just go pick up some allen screws that match!".....but I can't because the THREADS ARE DIFFERENT TOO!!!!
same thing with bolts that hold axle inserts...different size allen hex head AND different threads....I expect better when paying 2000.00 for a frame...all the hardware should have same size hex head AND be metric to match components!
Rodney64
100 kW
Rix said:
Rick if this is the case and it was discontinued you would think that they would have something else in the pipeline. From what full throttle was saying stealth had a lot to do with the 54xx series. Can't see the crown managing to make it on the bonber
Rix
100 TW
Yah Rod, I heard the same thing about the 54xx being designed at the input of stealth. My findings and Keplers comments indicate that the 54xx isn't going anywhere. But the emails and PMs I got from several people have me questioning some things. Will see what turns up
Sorry that you are disappointed I don't have a Phasor but the motorcycle industry does things like this because of chassis parts can be engineered specificically and manufactures dont want someone to confuse parts/hardware. As far as SAE goes, the frame ismade in US. Fords, Chevys GMCs, Harleys (except carburators on older models) all use SAE. If you want to standardise your screws, take one of each to the hardware store so you can figure out what pitch and thread diameter you're dealing with and get yourself some metric screws in the same allen head size. But be forwarned, if you do this, you will more like confuse assembly if mix the screws together during disassembly. I think you have a good bike and I like it. As with any special construction, there are idiosyncracies that always raise their weary heads and you are working through them. Repairing things that needed to be re-engineered correctly. I am surprised I haven't had more issues with the Bomber. Solved the regen problem with axle nuts coming loose with a home made torque arm, new rear brake pads because the axle slipped when it was loose and the disk rubbed the pad on the inside down to the metal base, solved my flatting problem with the new rear wheel I laced to the bike. Solved my soft bending cranks issues by sending my crank arms to a cryogenic tempering facility and now my cranks still flex but don't stay bent when I hit a rock. Sorry for the tangent but I think that your are going through the same type of stuff with your bike. And once you have worked out all of the issues, you will have a trouble free ride. Then you may even get bored because you don't have anything to work on. And to boot, there is no shortage of guys on this thread and the Stealth Forum that will help out with trouble shooting.
Rick
Sorry that you are disappointed I don't have a Phasor but the motorcycle industry does things like this because of chassis parts can be engineered specificically and manufactures dont want someone to confuse parts/hardware. As far as SAE goes, the frame ismade in US. Fords, Chevys GMCs, Harleys (except carburators on older models) all use SAE. If you want to standardise your screws, take one of each to the hardware store so you can figure out what pitch and thread diameter you're dealing with and get yourself some metric screws in the same allen head size. But be forwarned, if you do this, you will more like confuse assembly if mix the screws together during disassembly. I think you have a good bike and I like it. As with any special construction, there are idiosyncracies that always raise their weary heads and you are working through them. Repairing things that needed to be re-engineered correctly. I am surprised I haven't had more issues with the Bomber. Solved the regen problem with axle nuts coming loose with a home made torque arm, new rear brake pads because the axle slipped when it was loose and the disk rubbed the pad on the inside down to the metal base, solved my flatting problem with the new rear wheel I laced to the bike. Solved my soft bending cranks issues by sending my crank arms to a cryogenic tempering facility and now my cranks still flex but don't stay bent when I hit a rock. Sorry for the tangent but I think that your are going through the same type of stuff with your bike. And once you have worked out all of the issues, you will have a trouble free ride. Then you may even get bored because you don't have anything to work on. And to boot, there is no shortage of guys on this thread and the Stealth Forum that will help out with trouble shooting.
Rick
