not sure if you understood but I was saying even the thread sizes are different from one side to the other so it makes it near impossible to find scews with matching hex heads unless I retap the threads too....VERY annoying especially when trying to make up some road repair tool kit!....and then on top of that problem I have SAE versus metric...Rix said:
E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners
- Thread starter Rodney64
- Start date
Rix
100 TW
The official word from Kenny, it would appear Kepler comments and my information are indeed correct. Still have to order in bulk.Rodney64 said:
pendragon8000
100 kW
50! man wtf. that seems like alot. i guess they would be set up for MASS production...
Rodney64
100 kW
Possible that I'm off Internet for a couple of weeks as I'm visiting my family.
Rodney64
Rodney64
Rix
100 TW
pendragon8000 said:
So it would appear.
Rodney, have safe trip. Hear from you when you return.
Rick
this is my first (and maybe last ROCSHOX VIVID AIR shock....it seems after every couple rides I gotta refill it guess I will talk to rockshox but I would go with spring as a back up for now...only other one that i had of an all-air shock,a manatou swinger...it would run out of air WHILE riding....THIS shock seems much more substancial and feels like a cadillac on the roughest terrain but is it normal to have to refill air shocks after a few rides?.....(rides WITHOUT a lot of jumps maybe a few curbs) Thinking about putting on EBAY for half price and getting a fox downhill with big macho looking coil spring but of course that adds 1 1 1/2 pounds
Attachments
Rix
100 TW
Korpin, I had the same problems with my Fox air on my Specialized Enduro. I would have to pump it up before every ride. I was running 260# PSI in it, in it and after a day of riding, it would be sagging. Post PSI ride check would reveal about a 30 PSI loss. I agree with your strategy of selling that on ebay for 50% off retail and get yourself a DH hill shock. I would go with a coil over downhill shock. While back I spoke with David from Phasor, he gave me some specs on the leverage travel ratio of his frame. If I recall, its about 2.7:1. So if you replace your vivid air with a vivid coil, you will have to order the "hi tune" which is valved for ratios from 2.7:1 up 3.1:1. If you like the way your bike rides and handles with the air shock and dont want the ride characteristics to change, measure your airshock from eye to eye and replace that with a coil shock of the same length. If you would like your bike to turn a little quicker, go with a slightly longer eye to eye coil shock. This is assuming the your rider static sag stays the same. I could easily tie up a couple of pages with how static rider sag, length of rear shock, fork setup can affect and change your frame's handeling and ride characteristics, but I am trying to keep it simple. Let me know what you do.
Rick
Rick
dimpirate
100 W
Been a while since I posted, lots of recent activity!
Came back home from a work trip yesterday. Had three packages waiting for me.
Easton havoc seatpost and woodman clamp $52
Set of 8 piston gatorbrakes 203mm rotors and extra set of pads $390 thanks to stevil :wink:
And phasor frame!!!! :lol: :lol:
Pictures below
First of the frame looks great! Heavy! And feels tough!
My first concern was for my battery and controller space.
My plan original plan is to use methods 24 fet controller with 100v 20ah lipo (also ideal plan...)
so 6S and 8S or 4S ( need to many of em) are my choices
Originally I was going to use 6s turnigy, those are to wide to fit together side by side I was able to squeeze two old ones I have in (not were panel bolts are) way to tight though definately no good.
There's 6s and 8s zippy compacts that should fit in this frame. I'm hoping to be able to fit 12 8S 5800ah packs, extra range for the same price, why not
It's a tight fit not sure it will work few pics below
I'm gonna wait to get controller in and then make final decision about what battery pack to purchase.
I need to get more info on heat sinking controller to frame (like Kepler did on his bomber).
Got the aluminum panels for phasor there thick
Do I need to screw a piece of aluminum to bottom of controller and then to frame?
Does controller need to be upside down?
Or do I need to completely remove cover and screw controller heatsink to aluminum and then to frame? If I recall correctly this is what Kepler did.
Any info on this would be very helpfull.
Put the swing arm in. Not so easy dropped frame right after thinking I should probobally do this over couch :?
Fell right on the tip of head tube, and slightly dented it f--k
Wasn't a big deal headset fit in no problem. Anyways like Rodney says in first page, got to put swingarm in and then pull towards you.
Local bike shop installed head set,fork,and seat post. Checked brakes on my current bike to $15 bucks,
Little hole in the wall bike shops are the best. All those fancy ones really rip you of usually. This place is cool, he explains to me what he's doing, has time to answer questions, and gets good prices when I order from them.
Yea I :lol: took the frame in the baby bike stroller, should have taken a picture looked pretty neat with swing arm sticking out the top..
I installed shock, had to add a spacer to each side for tight fit, guy at shop said that should be fine.
Also had to sand down one of the holes on frame wasn't letting bolt thru, little bit of sanding and it was all good!
My cromotor is still with methods till controller is ready, to plug and test. Could be another few weeks...
Then of to wheel build, John rob Holmes told me he's very busy at the moment (just had a child) and recommended someone else, they have 18"allu moped rims for $80
I'm really stuck on 19" rims though
Some prices seem very high though I'm not sure exactly what I should be looking for, I do want as light as can be for motorcycle/moped rim.
Tires I will use are shinko 244s 2.75s only size they offer for 19"
Should I be looking for motorcycle or moped rims?
19"x1.40 rim width? More less?
36h rim?
How much does front back matter?
Anyone have any rims to suggest?
If I end up buying the rims myself I might just order spokes and DMR revolver front hub and have local shop true, it might be a lot cheaper, way less shipping.
Fred
Came back home from a work trip yesterday. Had three packages waiting for me.
Easton havoc seatpost and woodman clamp $52
Set of 8 piston gatorbrakes 203mm rotors and extra set of pads $390 thanks to stevil :wink:
And phasor frame!!!! :lol: :lol:
Pictures below
First of the frame looks great! Heavy! And feels tough!
My first concern was for my battery and controller space.
My plan original plan is to use methods 24 fet controller with 100v 20ah lipo (also ideal plan...)
so 6S and 8S or 4S ( need to many of em) are my choices
Originally I was going to use 6s turnigy, those are to wide to fit together side by side I was able to squeeze two old ones I have in (not were panel bolts are) way to tight though definately no good.
There's 6s and 8s zippy compacts that should fit in this frame. I'm hoping to be able to fit 12 8S 5800ah packs, extra range for the same price, why not
It's a tight fit not sure it will work few pics below
I'm gonna wait to get controller in and then make final decision about what battery pack to purchase.
I need to get more info on heat sinking controller to frame (like Kepler did on his bomber).
Got the aluminum panels for phasor there thick
Do I need to screw a piece of aluminum to bottom of controller and then to frame?
Does controller need to be upside down?
Or do I need to completely remove cover and screw controller heatsink to aluminum and then to frame? If I recall correctly this is what Kepler did.
Any info on this would be very helpfull.
Put the swing arm in. Not so easy dropped frame right after thinking I should probobally do this over couch :?
Fell right on the tip of head tube, and slightly dented it f--k
Wasn't a big deal headset fit in no problem. Anyways like Rodney says in first page, got to put swingarm in and then pull towards you.
Local bike shop installed head set,fork,and seat post. Checked brakes on my current bike to $15 bucks,
Little hole in the wall bike shops are the best. All those fancy ones really rip you of usually. This place is cool, he explains to me what he's doing, has time to answer questions, and gets good prices when I order from them.
Yea I :lol: took the frame in the baby bike stroller, should have taken a picture looked pretty neat with swing arm sticking out the top..
I installed shock, had to add a spacer to each side for tight fit, guy at shop said that should be fine.
Also had to sand down one of the holes on frame wasn't letting bolt thru, little bit of sanding and it was all good!
My cromotor is still with methods till controller is ready, to plug and test. Could be another few weeks...
Then of to wheel build, John rob Holmes told me he's very busy at the moment (just had a child) and recommended someone else, they have 18"allu moped rims for $80
I'm really stuck on 19" rims though
Some prices seem very high though I'm not sure exactly what I should be looking for, I do want as light as can be for motorcycle/moped rim.
Tires I will use are shinko 244s 2.75s only size they offer for 19"
Should I be looking for motorcycle or moped rims?
19"x1.40 rim width? More less?
36h rim?
How much does front back matter?
Anyone have any rims to suggest?
If I end up buying the rims myself I might just order spokes and DMR revolver front hub and have local shop true, it might be a lot cheaper, way less shipping.
Fred
pendragon8000
100 kW
dimpirate said:
I recall Kepler used the aluminium fet block and mounted it to the insed of the frame, then made a housing around the controller board inside the frame. really good idea IMO. should be all the heatsink you need, aluminium conducts heat so quick, the heat would travel through the frame before it gets too hot where you mounted it. remember to use thermal conductive paste
dimpirate
100 W
pendragon8000 said:dimpirate said:
I recall Kepler used the aluminium fet block and mounted it to the insed of the frame, then made a housing around the controller board inside the frame. really good idea IMO. should be all the heatsink you need, aluminium conducts heat so quick, the heat would travel through the frame before it gets too hot where you mounted it. remember to use thermal conductive paste
So he just drilled holes in frame and got longer screws to heatsink that usually go to cover?
Doesn't get into much detail in this articlehttp://www.electricbike.com/stealth-hot-rod/
Though I'm sure ive seen it somewhere on ES in more detail.
If that's the case it shouldn't be to hard for me to do. Might even save me some room...
Methods did recommend and extra piece of aluminum hooked to heat sink and then to frame.
I wonder what kind of material he used to protect controller.
Kepler
10 MW
Internally mounting the controller is quite straight forward and IMO, well worth the effort.
Few things to consider though. Firstly you need to make sure you have a nice flat surface to mount the FET heat sink to. If the panel has a bit of a ripple in it, you won't get the required heat transfer from the FET heats sink.
It can be a little tricky to get the holes in the right place too. The heat sink screw pattern is all over the place so you need to measure carefully before drilling.
An aluminium frame is ideal to mount to however Stealths are CroMo and which isn't that great at transferring heat. However, with plenty of heater transfer paste, I found the controller ran cooler even against CroMo in comparison to just being fitted in a standard case.
Make sure once the controller is removed from the case, heavy components such as the main Caps are hot glued to the board. Also you will need to support the wires coming out of the controller to protect then from possible breakage.
You will still need a protective shield over the electrical components just to make sure nothing gets knocked should something come loose in the battery compartment.
Lastly, consider what might happen if the controller blows some Fets and splatters hot fet and melted solder all over the place. Last thing you want is for this to come in contact with a set of LiPo's so make sure the protective shield would guard against this happening.
Hope that helps
Few things to consider though. Firstly you need to make sure you have a nice flat surface to mount the FET heat sink to. If the panel has a bit of a ripple in it, you won't get the required heat transfer from the FET heats sink.
It can be a little tricky to get the holes in the right place too. The heat sink screw pattern is all over the place so you need to measure carefully before drilling.
An aluminium frame is ideal to mount to however Stealths are CroMo and which isn't that great at transferring heat. However, with plenty of heater transfer paste, I found the controller ran cooler even against CroMo in comparison to just being fitted in a standard case.
Make sure once the controller is removed from the case, heavy components such as the main Caps are hot glued to the board. Also you will need to support the wires coming out of the controller to protect then from possible breakage.
You will still need a protective shield over the electrical components just to make sure nothing gets knocked should something come loose in the battery compartment.
Lastly, consider what might happen if the controller blows some Fets and splatters hot fet and melted solder all over the place. Last thing you want is for this to come in contact with a set of LiPo's so make sure the protective shield would guard against this happening.
Hope that helps
Rodney64
100 kW
Fred, I'm changing to the moped motorcycle rim 17 inch but I haven't laced it yet. Waiting on spokes so cannot give a ride report yet.
But I'm planning ln doing more off road and want the torque. The tyres are a lot harder thanks Rick and by the way the front mopped rim rocked up but I'm 7000kms away bugger.
I think you will need to wait untill the frame arrives before you decide on the controller location.
I mounted a 12 fet inside but those 24 fet are big.
I've ordered a 24 fet and planning on putting it outside.
Limited access to internet as in Te Anau seeing my Dad
Planning on doing some down hill riding in queenstown, not cheap wish I had the phasor.
But I'm planning ln doing more off road and want the torque. The tyres are a lot harder thanks Rick and by the way the front mopped rim rocked up but I'm 7000kms away bugger.
I think you will need to wait untill the frame arrives before you decide on the controller location.
I mounted a 12 fet inside but those 24 fet are big.
I've ordered a 24 fet and planning on putting it outside.
Limited access to internet as in Te Anau seeing my Dad
Planning on doing some down hill riding in queenstown, not cheap wish I had the phasor.
dimpirate
100 W
Thanks for chiming in on conversation Kepler! And for making it happen pendragon!
Kepler said:Internally mounting the controller is quite straight forward and IMO, well worth the effort.
Few things to consider though. Firstly you need to make sure you have a nice flat surface to mount the FET heat sink to. If the panel has a bit of a ripple in it, you won't get the required heat transfer from the FET heats sink.
It can be a little tricky to get the holes in the right place too. The heat sink screw pattern is all over the place so you need to measure carefully before drilling.
the surface is actually not flat there is one ripple between chromoly frame and aluminum panel. I think I can avoid this easily since the 24 fet heat sink should clear the frame and be on panel ( at least mostly). By adding a sepperate flat larger and thicker (2-3mm) piece of aluminum I'm thinking that should dissipate the heat to a larger surface on panel. Panel is only close to 1.5mm thikness
An aluminium frame is ideal to mount to however Stealths are CroMo and which isn't that great at transferring heat. However, with plenty of heater transfer paste, I found the controller ran cooler even against CroMo in comparison to just being fitted in a standard case.
Make sure once the controller is removed from the case, heavy components such as the main Caps are hot glued to the board. Also you will need to support the wires coming out of the controller to protect then from possible breakage.
You will still need a protective shield over the electrical components just to make sure nothing gets knocked should something come loose in the battery compartment.
Are main caps not usually glued to board?
What kind of protective shield did you use for your controller?
Lastly, consider what might happen if the controller blows some Fets and splatters hot fet and melted solder all over the place. Last thing you want is for this to come in contact with a set of LiPo's so make sure the protective shield would guard against this happening.
Ill make sure of it thanks!!
Hope that helps
dimpirate
100 W
Rodney64 said:Fred, I'm changing to the moped motorcycle rim 17 inch but I haven't laced it yet. Waiting on spokes so cannot give a ride report yet.
But I'm planning ln doing more off road and want the torque. The tyres are a lot harder thanks Rick and by the way the front mopped rim rocked up but I'm 7000kms away bugger.
not looking to do weelies and I like larger tire and keeping with the regular bicycle look as much as possible. That's why I'm going 19" not that it will necessarily kill my wheelie capabilities at 100v 100 a with cromotor
I think you will need to wait untill the frame arrives before you decide on the controller location.
frame is here in my post above with pics
Small crappy pics though....
In pic controller and battery packs are cut slightly larger than they are to allow a bit of room for error (not much)
Controller dimensions 8"x5.5"x2.5 and battery packs are 167x46x64mm
I mounted a 12 fet inside but those 24 fet are big.
controller fits just has to be mounted to side of frame, I think it would also so look big and awkward on outside of frame since it is wider than frame. I think if my calculations are right you should also be able to fit a 24 fet in frame, maybe even without having to split your packs assuming length is shorter. Anyways well find out soon enough!
I've ordered a 24 fet and planning on putting it outside.
Limited access to internet as in Te Anau seeing my Dad
Planning on doing some down hill riding in queenstown, not cheap wish I had the phasor.
Have fun!
Rix
100 TW
Dimpirate, thats great news, everything is coming together for you. Might I make a suggestion? The Skinko SR244 2.75x19 are great tires, but the Shinko SR241 2.75x19 are also great and weigh .95 kg or almost 2 pound less in this size. 244s are about 8 pounds and the 241s about 6 pounds each so could save an additional 4 pounds. The reason for the weight difference is the 244s are DOT approved and the 241 are not. The 244s have a laod rating of over 500# vs the 241s around 416#. I am excited about your build, it will be fast and tough 
Rodney, the way I packed that rim and tire, the onlyway it would have been damaged was if a forklift ran over the case. The tire and tube were mounted on the rim. with a thick cardboard box. Also I pinched the tire into the box so it couldn't move around, what happened?
Rick
Rodney, the way I packed that rim and tire, the onlyway it would have been damaged was if a forklift ran over the case. The tire and tube were mounted on the rim. with a thick cardboard box. Also I pinched the tire into the box so it couldn't move around, what happened?
Rick
Rodney64
100 kW
Rick no damage, to the rim.
All these toys rocking up and I'm not home.
All these toys rocking up and I'm not home.
dimpirate
100 W
Rix said:Dimpirate, thats great news, everything is coming together for you. Might I make a suggestion? The Skinko SR244 2.75x19 are great tires, but the Shinko SR241 2.75x19 are also great and weigh .95 kg or almost 2 pound less in this size. 244s are about 8 pounds and the 241s about 6 pounds each so could save an additional 4 pounds. The reason for the weight difference is the 244s are DOT approved and the 241 are not. The 244s have a laod rating of over 500# vs the 241s around 416#. I am excited about your build, it will be fast and tough
Thanks for the suggestion Rick. This bike is gonna get heavy quick! I remember you mentioning 241's before. Thing is 90% of my riding is on the road that's why I wanted dual sport.
Though 4 lbs is a lot, since this is more of a heavy bicycle than a motorcycle thet might do just fine on the road as well.
Wet roads at times where I live as well...
Rodney64
100 kW
Fred I meant controller not frame . Good to see you are progressing with your build and looking forward to completion. This will be 3 Phasors that I know going cromotor, 24s or more
Rix
100 TW
Dimpirte, check out the pic of the Sr241. You can see that it would be a realy good offroad on road tire. OD is 25.2" So its just a bit smaller than a 26"MTB Tire. I would rate this tire as a true 60/40 Offroad/on road tire. On my scale the 244 is a 50/50 Offroad/onroad tire. But for light Phasor ebike builds, either tire will last a hell of a lot longer than any MTB Road tire out there. I have almost a 1000 miles on my 19x2.5 Bridgeston M23 and its just now showing signs of wear. And its a hard pack knobby with half of my riding being on pavement.
Korpin, I like what you are doing with your bike, the Schlumpf, though costly, is going to be way better for your Phasor. And once you get a DH coil shock on the rear, my money is on that you will love your bike all over again. Please post ride reports on these mods.
Rod, Glad the rim tube and tire made it there in good condition. It will go perfect with your 17x1.4 rear wheel combo. Can't wait to see it. Let me know if you need something else.
Rick
Korpin, I like what you are doing with your bike, the Schlumpf, though costly, is going to be way better for your Phasor. And once you get a DH coil shock on the rear, my money is on that you will love your bike all over again. Please post ride reports on these mods.
Rod, Glad the rim tube and tire made it there in good condition. It will go perfect with your 17x1.4 rear wheel combo. Can't wait to see it. Let me know if you need something else.
Rick
Attachments
Rix
100 TW
Dimpirate, I missed some of your posts above.
Rick
Here are some pics of Prowheel racing's 19x1.4" 36 hole Yamaha play bike rims in Gold, Black and polished. These rims are 7000 series temperd aluminum rims and are very strong and lighter than moped rims. I think the gold rims on a white Phasor would look super trick. But it would be flashy. I am currently running the polished rim on the rear of my bomber but will be going to a 17X1.4" down the road once I figure out if I can get a 5405 or not.
Rick
Attachments
Rodney64
100 kW
Those gold rims do look nice. My new controllers waiting for me at home. Hope to have my 4080 back soon laced to a 17 inch prorim set up with one of zombies 4115 controllers.
Rix
100 TW
Back from NZ yet? Hope all is well with the family. Let me know what you think of that Oddessy Light Front Rim when you can.
Rick
Rick
Rodney64
100 kW
Rix said:
No still 2 more weeks before I get home. Will take a couple of photos when I get home and post up.
Rix
100 TW
Look forward to it when you get back.
Rick
Rick
