E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

[Rodney64]

Ryanthelion, your Phasor is going to rip. Wont be able to keep that front wheel down , as I learned a short while back, zombies controller are 150amp monsters and make real fast ebikes. What are doing wheel/tire wise? Whats your prospective power set up going to be? Comin out of nowhere with this gnarly awesom build, awesome.

Rodney, I have recently put together component parts lists for a few Phasor builders. One of the gents is looking at what appears to be a new condtion fork on Ebay. Its a dual crown fork but the head tube has been cut, and I am not sure if its over all length is going to be long enough for the Phasor frame. As a general rule I have followed over the years when mounting forks on bicycles, the fork tube needs to be at least a couple of inches (55mm) or longer than the head tube length to account for the head set, spacer and stem to be mounted. I know on your blue Phasor that your fork tube is much much longer than your head tube and you have a few shims below the head set to compensate for that. But if someone was mounting the fork as low as possible and the tube was long enough for the head set and couple of spacers and stem to mount the bars to, what would the over all minimal length need to be for a fork tube going onto the Phasor frame?


Rick

Minimum length would be 165mm. I have a fork cut to 170 on a single crown fork and it works. If you went for a direct mount stem on a triple clamp then it maybe less.

 

[Ryanthelion]

Rix I will be using pro race rims and I haven't decided what tires i will be using yet. Power will be limited to 6 kilowatt.

Purchased FSA headset today also a set of avid code R brakes.

 

[Rix]

Ryanthelion, beutiful components! The avids and the gold ano headset = beutiful looking build.

Rod, thanks for getting back to me. So 165mm minimum for fork tube length to go into the Phasor frame. I appreciate that.

Rick

 

[Deutch420]

Deutch, you have a lot of lipo there. Are u making your own harness and have you decided on how you are going to charge.

Yes its a lot of lipo. And there is room for more!!!
I made all my harness's myself. They are the same harness's i have run on my previous 8Kw build. They have about 3,500 miles of flawless use on them. Never any issues (using 75a Andersons - 45a Andersons were an issue above 4kw).
I use the harness on the left to charge, and the harness on the right to discharge. A simple 6-1 balance harness allows me to balance the cells individually (in packs of 4) when needed. Simple plug and play stuff.
Also, i changed out all the HXT connectors (that come stock on the batteries) for 45a andersons. I didnt want to solder all the batteries together because i need access to them individually. For example, i seem to get 1 bum cell, in 1 battery every 1000 miles. With the setup the way it is, i literally unplug 1 battery from the pack and replace it with a new one. it takes about 45 seconds. just unplug 45a andersons, unplug balance and replace battery and re-plug the andersons and balance taps. (The 45a andersons are only used PRIOR to the harness's. Using a 45a anderson on your harness is very unsafe if you plan to run over 4kw. I had multiple 45a Andersons melt on me @ 8kw when using them to make the harness. Right now im 8kw, with 4 batteries in parallel per pack. so each battery is only seeing a draw of 20amps. If i only had 24s2p, it would draw 40amps per battery which would be close to the max the 45a andersons can hold. So only use the 45a andersons on your batteries (like i did) if you are running 40amps MAX per battery.)
Discharge harness is all 8g high temp silicone wire. The Charge harness is only 12g. I use 75a Andersons throughout. It might be overkill, but its worth it if you ask me. again, 3,500 miles and never even a minor issue involving the harness's.
Running an iCharger 306b and a Meanwell 1000w PSU; it gets the whole pack charged in about an hour and 45 mins ( from 3.55v-4.15v).
I would say the only drawback to this setup is that one side cover will need to be removed every time I need to charge. oh well.

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That's absolutely beautiful. lol
I am completely jealous.

Nothing to be jealous about. Just run the same setup and enjoy it!
I mean, with the amount of money it costs to build a Phasor, buying 24s4p of lipo is a drop in the bucket. the 4s hardcase packs are cheap, only $25 per battery. 25$x 24 packs = $600. figure in another 100$ for some extra batteries just in case.. so thats $700 for batteries. For example, thats only 1/2 what the front fork alone costs. So to put in perspective, the battery pack cost is realistically not even 1/10th of the cost of the whole build. So why neglect it?

 

[dimpirate]

Last components in!!! Of to the man cave for a few hours no Kentucky fried fingers and I might be riding by tonight!!!

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[Rix]

Up and going this weekend, yeh!!!! Please post some pics. Also, do me a favor, measure your tire height with the SR244 fully inflated. No way they are coming in over 27" from the pics I have seen. More like mid 25 to 26 inches. Here is the cut and pasted specs for the 2,75x19 SR244. let me know.

Rim Diameter: 19 Position: Front, Rear
Speed Rating: P - Rated up to 93 MPH DOT Approved: Yes
Inch System: 2.75-19 Load Rating: 43
Manufacturer Part Number: N/A Overall Diameter: 27.10
Sidewall: Blackwall Sold in Units: Each
Tire Construction:

 

[Rodney64]

Dimpirate those Shinko 244,s do look good, and yes please post a couple of pics with the tyres on the bike

 

[Rix]

Dimpirate those Shinko 244,s do look good, and yes please post a couple of pics with the tyres on the bike

You said it Rod, those SR244 look good. You hear that Dimpirate? Get those pics posted man. Can't keep on keeping us in the dark chompin at the bit waiting for some action.

 

[Rodney64]

I have been trying to find these tyres in 4 inch, but only found 3 inch or 4.6 inch which will be a tight fit for the Phasor if it fits at all.



3.00-17 Shinko 244 Series Dual Sport Front/Rear Tire-SR244 3.00-17

 

[Rix]

I have been trying to find these tyres in 4 inch, but only found 3 inch or 4.6 inch which will be a tight fit for the Phasor if it fits at all.

3.00-17 Shinko 244 Series Dual Sport Front/Rear Tire-SR244 3.00-17

The Shinko SR241 3.00-17 I am running is 3.55 inches wide inflated according to my mic, its OD is 23.9 inches. shinko lists this tire as 3.39 inches wide and 23.7 inches tall so they are a little off. This could be because of the rim and the tire is bulding a little more for the rim. IF thats the case the SR244 3-17 should also be about the same width and the OD should be around 23.4" instead of the 23.1 listed for them. I think you will find the 3-17 in either the 241 or 244 very nice.

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

Out of the 241 and 244 which tyre would be better off road.

Below, a couple of Phasors out for a ride on a nice autumns day.

[youtube]2H0sJ7SCg2U[/youtube]

 

[Rodney64]

2 Phasor family now

 

[litespeed]

Very cool!

 

[Rix]

Rod, that vid of you and Ryanthelion is just plain cool 8) . That will be Jet and I in about another 8 years, Jet turns two in July. How is that single crown fork working out? So breaking down the SR241 3.00-17. This is the absolute best tire I have ever ridden on my Bomber. Thats actually saying alot because I have tried a lot of tires. Here is a list of all the tires I have mounted and tried so far. Stock 24 MTB rim, Duro Razorback 3.00x24, Razorback 2.60x24, Arrow Racing Prime bite 2.75x24, Felt Bermaster 3.00x24. The 19x1.4 prowheel racing rim. I had the Bridgestone M203 70x100-19, the Bridgestone M403 70x100-19, The Maxxis Maxicross SI 70x100-19, and the Bridgestone M23 2.50-19. The 17x1.4 Prowheel racing rim currently on the bike, Michelin Gazzelle M62 2.75-17 and 3.00-17, and the Shinko SR241 3.00-17 thats currently on the bike and I have a 2.75-17 SR241 that I haven't tried yet. I can say hands down out of all the tires listed above, the 3.00-17 SR241 is the absolute best tire. I have never had a tire that works so well on the road with the low rolling resistance of a slick and have the traction offroad that this tire does. This tire blow my mind how well it works everywhere. Fast paved corners, no problem, stick like glue, loose dirt corner, no problem, holds the line better than any knobby I have had on the bike so far. Rocks, great and tough. Hi speed paved road straight aways, rolls fast and easy and not nearly as noisy as the knobbies (motorcycle and Razorbacks, or the Berm Master. Pedaling with out power, much more pleasant than it should be. I have not tried the SR244s...yet. I dont know if it would be better than the 241 or not. I can only say that the 241 has been the best all around tire so far. I have not tried my 241 2.75-17 either. Its about 23.4 inches or 23 3/8" tape measure OD where as the 3.00-17 is 23.9" OD or 23 7/8" tape measure so I dont' expect that the 2.75 would be that much difference than the 3.00. Its just very rare when a tire can do everthing so well with no comprimises what so ever. The SR241 3.0-17 weighs 6 pounds 14 ounces). The 2.75-17 comes in at just barely over 6 pounds. For weight reference, on the scale I weighed those tires (old 25# fruit scale), the Duro 24x3.00 Razorback weight 3 pounds 5 ounces. Out of the Knobbies above, the Bridgeston M23 was the only one to come in under 5 pounds, 4 pounds 15 ounces. The other knobbies all fell within the 5-6 pound range with ODs from 24.7 to 25.1 inches. I am hoping that Dimpirate can provided some data on the 2.75-19 244s hes running. Voicecoils emailed me and gave the link for the 13 G spokes with the extra big 9+mm spoke nipple heads with the 5mm body. If that and can be laced to my 19x1.4 tire, I am going to be running that up front and go with either the 2.75-19 SR241 or the SR244 depending on Dimpirates data and ride review.

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

Those tyres sound good Rick. Now my 4080 should arrive by post tomorrow and looking for some tips to fit it as I haven't fitted one before onto a motorcycle rim. Looking forward to fitting the maxxis and giving it some throttle.

 

[Rix]

Fitting tips, if your rim doesn't have a rubber rim strip, get a duct tape roll and tear the strip in half and wrap two times around the rim over the spoke nipples. This to protect the tube since these rims are not double wall like MTB rims are. Get yourself 3 motorcycle tire irons like the PitPosse ones in the pic enclosed. Next (ensuring there is a bunch of baby powder dusted all around the inside of the tire) mount the tire on the rim but only one bead so the tire is half on and half off of the rim. If I remember correclty your Maxxis doesn't have an arrow pointing the direction of rotation so you don't need to worry about that. After the tire is half on the rim, starting with where the valve stem hole is (there are actually two holes because the other hole is for a rim bead locker so it doesnt matter which one is used for the valve stem) insert the tube. I find it best to put the stem through the valve hole on the rim first and then keep it in place with the valve stem cap screwed on as you work around the tire putting the tube inside. This is an extra step but it has served me well. After the tube is inside of the tire, removed the valve cap and inflate the tube just a little until its round but not expanding. This will untwist the tube inside the tire. After the tube is untwisted, remove the valve core and deflate the tube. Now its time to start mounting the second have of the tire bead. With the valve core removed, start at the valve stem (reinstall the cap to keep the valve from being pulled out of the rim hole) and using the tire irons walk your way around the tire. this will get a little tough so take your time. Each time you grab a bit of rim with the tire iron, take your fingers and make sure the tube is pushed away fromt he bead towards the inside of the tire. This will eliminate pinching the tube with the tire iron. The last little bit of the bead will be the hardest to mount. You will get to the point where the tire wont' look like its big enough to fit the rim. To assist with maximum compliance, push down on the opposite side of the tire and around the tire up to the point where its still not mounted to keep the bead as low as possible in the rim. This will give you the most compliance to work with. After the tire is completely mounted, inflate the tire to 15PSI and then deflate. This should center the tire and tube evenly around the rim. Then inflate again and make sure the tire comes up on the bead. You will see this. If the tire doesn't come up on the bead right away, keep inflating. I follow the 25+PSI rule. This means you can go up 25 PSI over your maximum PSI rating on the tire to get it rise up on the bead. But as soon as the tire comes on the bead, reduce PSI to what ever you want to ride at. If the tire doesn't inflate at +25PSI over maximum rating, stop and look at where the bead isn't rising. Remove valve cap and completely deflate. Get your self a sponge and some really strong dishwashing soap and water mixed. where the bead wasn't rising, sponge a bunch of dishwater soap along that portion of the bead and reinflate quickly before the dish soap water dries. It should come up on the bead this time. If it still doens't just let the tire set for a few minutes at+25PSI or maximum PSI rating and it should rise up slowly. Soon as it does, reduce PSI and you are ready for mounting. Dont use lubricating sprays like WD40 or penetraing lubes for this. The will make your bead slick but those lubes take for ever to dry out and sometime wont. This could cause your tire to slip on the bead under hard acceleration. Dishsoap will dry and leave a soapy residue, but it wont be slippery when its dry. I would suggest 28 PSI for you starting point on the Maxxis. See how it feels. Even though you may be able to run down to or less than 20PSI, don't do it becauese there is no rim lock and you don't want the tire to slip on the bead under hard acceleration. At 20 PSI or higher there is enough air pressure pushing on the bead that you wil not have any issues with slippage.

Rick

 

[korpin]

hey dmpirate you were quick with that schlump! you aready champhered it??? damm thought I was gonna be first person in the history of civilization to install a schlumph on a phasor...also putting a chain guide on too for good measure...what size chainring did you decide on?

 

[korpin]

READ your reply about wheel/tire weight never really weighed mine guess I should.....I am using mr tuffies/thorn proof tubes/and slime I may ALREADY be close to that weight...will take off front wheel and weigh it....bike at shop now having bottom bracket champhered for schlumph

 

[Rix]

READ your reply about wheel/tire weight never really weighed mine guess I should.....I am using mr tuffies/thorn proof tubes/and slime I may ALREADY be close to that weight...will take off front wheel and weigh it....bike at shop now having bottom bracket champhered for schlumph

Korpin, looking at your build, I would be surprised if your tires and tubes and mr. tuffy liners were coming in at more than 5 pounds each. Not talking the whole front wheel rim and hub assembly, just your tire tube combo. Even by the down hill bicycle industry standards, the Duro Razorbacks 24x3.00 and there even larger 26x3.00 are the heaviest in the industry excluding the custom huge tires out there such as the one offered by Surly bikes. I cant remember what tires you are running but looking at your pics, they arent the Duro 26x3 Razorbacks. Those things are just a little under 4 pounds without the heavy duty tube. So when I am comparing the motorcycle tires some of us are running on our ebikes to the Mountain bikes tires, I am really comparing some of the lightest tires in the motorcycle industry to the some of the heaviest tires in the mountain bike industry and thats why the tires are usually with in a few pounds of each other. On a pedal only bike, this is a huge differnce, but on our high powered ebikes, not really an issue. Unless your running some big 26x3 inche tires they will be lighter than the Razorbacks by probably a pound or more for each tire. Cant wait to hear about your ride report with the Schlumpf. I think HD Killer has a schlumpf on his too. To bad he isn't more active on the the thread, his build is very interesting, such as everyone elses and I would like to read more about it.

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

Rod, that vid of you and Ryanthelion is just plain cool 8) . That will be Jet and I in about another 8 years, Jet turns two in July. How is that single crown fork working out?

Rick

The forks are cut too short for me and the are only 180mm so the handling doesn't seem at good as the bomber forks with the uncut tube.

We should have a set of boxxers arriving this week.

 

[Rix]

Thats because with the shorter fork, the head tube is steeper. I am guessing that Ryans turns quicker and feels more "flickable" than your Phasor. But something else just also hit me. With the smaller 17x1.4 wheel laced up on the rear, that angle would slacken up with the 26" up front. It would probably handle pretty good for you then. Anyway you slice it, the Zoch Bomber fork is a better option .

Rick

 

[korpin]

ITS would be fair to say they DID make good on their order( haberstock mobility gmbh) and I got the milling tool rental,the tool kit,and easy shift levers and they are trusting me to send 165mm crank arms and milling tool back which I will be diligent on....of course I spent over one grand U.S. on this venture and have yet to say if it will work as advertised

 

[korpin]

READ your reply about wheel/tire weight never really weighed mine guess I should.....I am using mr tuffies/thorn proof tubes/and slime I may ALREADY be close to that weight...will take off front wheel and weigh it....bike at shop now having bottom bracket champhered for schlumph

Korpin, looking at your build, I would be surprised if your tires and tubes and mr. tuffy liners were coming in at more than 5 pounds each. Not talking the whole front wheel rim and hub assembly, just your tire tube combo. Even by the down hill bicycle industry standards, the Duro Razorbacks 24x3.00 and there even larger 26x3.00 are the heaviest in the industry excluding the custom huge tires out there such as the one offered by Surly bikes. I cant remember what tires you are running but looking at your pics, they arent the Duro 26x3 Razorbacks. Those things are just a little under 4 pounds without the heavy duty tube. So when I am comparing the motorcycle tires some of us are running on our ebikes to the Mountain bikes tires, I am really comparing some of the lightest tires in the motorcycle industry to the some of the heaviest tires in the mountain bike industry and thats why the tires are usually with in a few pounds of each other. On a pedal only bike, this is a huge differnce, but on our high powered ebikes, not really an issue. Unless your running some big 26x3 inche tires they will be lighter than the Razorbacks by probably a pound or more for each tire. Cant wait to hear about your ride report with the Schlumpf. I think HD Killer has a schlumpf on his too. To bad he isn't more active on the the thread, his build is very interesting, such as everyone elses and I would like to read more about it.

Rick

is there a photo of HD's build on this forum?..did a search did not see much

 

[Rix]

He posted a couple of pics 20 pages or so back. Nothing else. Really hoping that he would have been active on the thread, his build is the extreme as far as battery capacity goes. He set the standard with almost 3kw of battery compacity.

Rod, here is a pic of me riding around with my son. Hes 21 months and has a few years to go before he pilots his own, but man he loves Ebikes.

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

Nice shot Rick, doesn't seem that long ago that mine were 2. the rim didn't arrive , but the forks did. Haven't fitted them yet as I had a mentally taxing day at work as well as the ride to and from work.

The 3580 cruises well at 40kms an hour with plenty in the tank when its required.