E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

[Rodney64]

First ride with my new 18 fet controller tonight whith the blue Phasor. After a short ride around the streets the controller was only warm with me pushing it.

I have a CA3 but during programming somewhere I've changed settings and instead of voltage reading 100.5 volt hot off charge its reading 227 volts. It's happened somewhere in advanced settings. Any help appreciated.

 

[jonescg]

Somewhere in there you need to adjust the Vsense value.

I have started to cut some Lexan up for your other battery pack, hope to get that finished tomorrow. I'm still yet to get up to Osborne park to collect my soldering irons

 

[Rodney64]

Thanks Chris. I'll try it tomorrow and see how I go.

 

[Rix]

First ride with my new 18 fet controller tonight whith the blue Phasor. After a short ride around the streets the controller was only warm with me pushing it.

I have a CA3 but during programming somewhere I've changed settings and instead of voltage reading 100.5 volt hot off charge its reading 227 volts. It's happened somewhere in advanced settings. Any help appreciated.

Yep, I think your controller issues are solve now that you got some air flowing around it.

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

It's been lesson about the need to have good controller cooling.

Still more to do with the bike, replacing the cable to the rear derailer installing the lights and installing the battery. Jonescg is making up some clear plastic cases for me for my original battery.

Will post some pics when it's finished

 

[Rix]

Sweet Rod, look forward to seeing Chris' work. Always top notch product.

Rick

 

[korpin]

well HPC batteries only come in 13 AH or 26 AH so looks like I am going 100 volts 13 AH should give me quite a bit more range than my 90 volt 9.6 AH OR more speed

 

[Rix]

well HPC batteries only come in 13 AH or 26 AH so looks like I am going 100 volts 13 AH should give me quite a bit more range than my 90 volt 9.6 AH OR more speed

Yes, at 1/2 throttle, you will gain some range potential. Probably not so much at WOT due to increased wind resistance and current demand increasing proportionately.

 

[korpin]

Yes, at 1/2 throttle, you will gain some range potential. Probably not so much at WOT due to increased wind resistance and current demand increasing proportionately.

figuring about 2-4 mph increase in top speed...my bike,when the batteries were new and it weighed close to 80 pounds and had 27" tires did about 53 mph(about 50 now).....now with the slightly smaller and heavier tires and more battery weight should be close to that speed again maybe a bit quicker....hoping for 50 mile range at 25 mph and 20-25 mile range at 35-45 will be a little under 100 pounds probably

 

[wingsuit]

well it was a pain in the ass to get my swingarm mounted. scraping away the powder coat wasnt enough, had to file down a tiny bit of metal. dont know what happened there but I'm happy its all mounted up. only shitty thing was until I figured out that was required I scraped the shit outta the powder-coat on the underside of the swing-arm while trying to mount it, will have to touch up with paint so bare metal isn't showing. you cant see it unless you flip the bike over so no big deal i guess.

got the headset pressed in today and mounted the fork, and picked up a 600lb spring for the rc4. starting to look like a bike. Rims arrive next week and then I can build the front wheel (rear wheel still waiting on the motor)

 

[Rodney64]

Good one wingsuit 600 pound spring I think would go well. Mines 350 and you defently feel it down in the back end on occasions. Where are you planing on mounting the controller.

 

[wingsuit]

not sure yet. I saw your external mount. I like the idea of extra cooling. Only thing I'm worried about is hits to the downtube. I know even on my dh bike you can get rocks kicked up that can cause decent damage to the frame so I'm a little worried about placing electronics there.

For me the battery is the biggest cost so I'll likely get it last. (I'm going to get one of those li-nmc setups, pricey... but less likely to blow up) and with their shelf life I dont want to get the battery early and have it waste away. So I'm sorting wheels and motor first and then start to look at battery and electronics

 

[Rix]

Wingsuit, coming along very nice. Tell us about your build, such as motor, battery, controller, components, stuff like that.

Rick

 

[wingsuit]

Wingsuit, coming along very nice. Tell us about your build, such as motor, battery, controller, components, stuff like that.

Rick

to be honest not 100% sure. I want to buy a cromotor ( no one has them in stock right now) but ebikes.ca is local to me so I could go for the crown.

right now
fox 40 203mm fork with a heavier spring, fox rc4 dhx shock with 600lb spring, answer stem, raceface highrise bars, 19" prowheel rims that are being laced to a saint 36h front hub. Saint 820 brakes

batteries will likely be a 90-100v 13ah li-nmc and still working on controller ideas.

 

[Ryanthelion]

Jonescg has done a good job with our batteries and has made a box made with 3 and 6 millimeter perspex.

 

[Rix]

Indeed Jones CG has done that. He makes balancing lipo a snap with his setup.

 

[korpin]

http://www.tadiranbat.com/index.php/military-grade-batteries high output high cycle batteries 5000 cycles 20 years

 

[Allex]

well capacity sucks, 500mAh and they have around 100Ohm impedance, don't think they are so good for us.

 

[Rix]

http://www.tadiranbat.com/index.php/military-grade-batteries high output high cycle batteries 5000 cycles 20 years

Bummer the tech isn't there yet for ebike apps. You would have to build a pack running 24s, 100p to get that to work for ebikes. Must be good for slow discharge stuff like flashlights and red dot holo sighting devices.

 

[korpin]

you would think they would have something considering the military has been dabbling with electric vehicles for quite a few years now.....hopefully my new batteries will be better than my first batch they sucked!...I see some are up to 800 miliamps on that site...really need to bone up on my battery knowledge guess ours are closer to auto industry than anything else...the Tesla has liquid cooled batteries according to the dealer...on the photo,the round object to the left is a converter because the motor is AC....imagine hooking that motor up to a bike!...seriously though,in my industry they have multiple speed swimming pool pump motors that have permanent magnets that are extremely light compared to the old copper and iron motors that produce 6 HP at 3450 RPMs (according to manufacturer of pump which is rated at 3 HP)

 

[korpin]

about a year ago,I thought I saw a post on endless sphere about someone trying to develop a hub motor that would use gears for climbing,then disengage at high speed...anybody know what became of that?...thought that might be good idea with some type of fly-clutch mechcanism

 

[korpin]

anybody know what became of this?...I like it!

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

[youtube]QxpTnGyafY0[/youtube]
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=47054&start=225

anybody know what became of this?...I like it!

 

[korpin]

thanks for the reply....wish my pedal bike had my crystal lite centered like yours with an internally geared rear hub...believe that is the future for electric bicycles - really low gearing for climbing and really high gearing for speed with a pretty big motor with gobs of power...and belt drive....at around 80 pounds....I think the hinebrink bike hustler 5 with a top sped of 80 and 200 mile range (yes I know overly optimistic it seems) proves that combo works......I really do not need to go 80mph or 200 miles range but like their drivetrain just maybe in a lighter package (theirs is 120 pounds with 20 AH)

 

[Rix]

There is no disputing that having multiple gear ratios and mid mount is better for climbing than a hub motor. But, there is a reason why most of the mid mount motors on bicycles/MTBs are limiting their peak watts to 1100 or less with bicycle drivetrain components. The best bicycle components can't handle more than that. Now a 420 pitch MC chain could be the way to go for mid drive, but then you wouldn't have multiple gears on the rear or a derailleur to handle that. Hanerbrink offers an X5 electric motorcycle, but that can't be compared to ebikes. The X3 and Bearcat can though. But their mid mounts are only rockin 750 and 1000 watts respectively. Same with Optibikes, running a BMX chain to Roeloffs hub which btw, a BMX chain is much better for mid drives, but still can't handle more than 1100 maybe 1200 watts. For mid drives to become a viable bicycle option running 5000+ watts, need to use a motorcycle chain, and if running an internally geared hub, there are none in existence that could handle 5kw on a mid drive, unless the final drive gearing was extremely tall. I wish the industry would make a heavy duty internally/planetary gear 3 speed hub with about 400% ratio difference between 1st, 2nd and 3rd specifically for motorized mountain bikes with 420 pitch chain and sprockets for pedaling and primary drive connection. That would be the solution.

EFMX, very neat video you posted, did you have a hand in making that?

Rick