E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

[Rodney64]

Korpin, Just checked my battery and its still sitting on 99.2 volts

 

[Rodney64]

How is the norco doing?
Rick

Rick, Yes the Norco going well, going for a ride shortly when it cools down. Heat wave in the west and storms and flooding over Hyenas side.

Just in case you don't like the maxxis knobby I sent you. Here are some tires that are trully dual purpose. They all weigh in the 5 pound range (2.4-2.7KG) which is only about 2 pounds (1KG) more than the Duro Razorbacks that come on the Bomber and Fighter. But as I stated before, the little additional weight gain is offset by the large torque increase you will get. Now all of these tires are slightly bigger round than the Maxxis maxicross I have on the way to you.
Rick

Ill run with the knobbly tyre to start with it maybe ok.

Now all of these tires are slightly bigger round than the Maxxis maxicross I have on the way to you. That tire is 23" (584mm) and these tires are 23.2 (591)mm for the shinko 275-17, 23.7" or 602mm for the Michielin Gazelle M62 275-17, and the IRC NR53 2.75-17 is 23.5 or about 597mm. All of these tires are about 3.1 inches 80mm wide. Not sure what kind of clearance you have between the swingarm but as long as its 90mm or wider, shouldn't be any problems with clearances.
Rick

The swing arm with the 23 inch is approximately 110mm,s so plenty of room for the 3 inch tyre and with my current set up its a 10 minute job the change out the rear to the 3580 with my stand.






Decided to upgrade my 12 fet controller to an 18 fet.

This will go well with my new 17x1.4 inch rim with the tyre measuring 23 inches increasing the 4080,s efficiency and also keeping it cooler.


The advantage of the 18 FET is there is 33% more powerful than the 12 FET version.

The recommended maximum output for the 12 FET 4110 controller is around 3500 watts and 18 FET controller is around 5250 watts. Power=V/I. So let say you are going to run 22S lipo at 81.4v nominal voltage. You then divide 3500 watts by 81.4v and you get around 43A for the 12 FET, 5250/81.4=64.5A for the 18 FET. Or for 24S is 3500w/88.8v=39.4A for the 12FET and 5250/88.8v=59A for the 18 FET.

 

[Rodney64]

Korpin,

I've made a small movie about how I check to see if my packs balanced properly.

If you had bad cells the pack would only display the good cells with no reading from the bad ones. Note one of my 6S packs range from 4.05 and 4.16 which I think this in the acceptable range.

What equipment do you have to check your packs and what's the range when they are fully charged? Do you bulk charge or balance charge each 6S pack.


I bulk charge and weekly/fortnightly check to see the packs still balanced depending on how its going. I've had damaged cells, puffed so so I'd rather test more regularly than take the risk.
[youtube]bR5YxpsA5ag[/youtube]

 

[Hyena]

If you had bad cells the pack would only display the good cells with no reading from the bad ones.

That's not the case at all. "bad" cells can range anywhere from 0v up to say 4.1v if the pack is supposedly fully charged and balanced. A bad cell may hold some sort of charge when full but quickly sag under load (eg high internal resistance or otherwise low capacity) or it may fail to get to full charge at sit a say 1-4 v while all the rest fill up.

Note one of my 6S packs range from 4.05 and 4.16 which I think this in the acceptable range.

I wouldn't be happy with one cell that consistently sits that low below the others. Sometimes it only takes pulling that individual cell up (that's where the BC168 charger are brilliant) in line with the ones to make it behave again, sometimes its a sign its on the way out. If you leave it as is though you're costing yourself capacity as that will almost certainly be the first cell to hit LVC (well ahead of the rest) and it's the old story of the chain only being as strong as the weakest link.

What equipment do you have to check your packs and what's the range when they are fully charged? Do you bulk charge or balance charge each 6S pack.

I'm pretty sure korpin mentioned before his pack is from HPC so will use a BMS and probably has no externally accessable balance taps for him to easily poke and prod at to see what's going on.

 

[Rodney64]

BC168 charger are brilliant. Hyena, Are these the chargers that you sell.

Thanks for putting me straight.

 

[Hyena]

Yeah they are, but that wasn't a sales pitch. haha
Chris has one which you may have seen.

If you're going to be regularly checking your balance (as you should) I'd recommend you come up with a better plug system so you're not yanking on your main balance taps all the time. They'll quickly fail and then you've got a big task on your hands.

Not to stink up the phasor thread with pictures of a stealth but this is how I've got my fighter set up and it's a good solution for lipo charging and management IMO. Bulk charge as often as you will with a high current charge port but then have a single, easily accessable plug to quickly check balance as needed. A single click of the centronics plug and 9.5/10 it needs nothing more than quickly slotting a cell long onto each JST plug for 5 seconds but if there is an imbalance that plug just goes into the 168 charger and 5 minutes later, problem solved.
Most importantly I never need to open the case. There's plenty of room in the phasor frame to do something similar

 

[dh-paule]

good idea, how do you cover the plug during rain or other bad conditions ?

 

[dimpirate]

Been working to much last week so haven't had time to post.
Korpin I hope you've figured out your battery situation, if not do so quickly, I've had a whole pack die on me cause controller got left on when I was traveling, it's a real bummer and lots of money! So if your dropping 6V every couple of days it isn't long before your pack will be completely drained or under 2.9V and make it unusable, or even worse dangerous!

With regards to Schlumpf I've been directly in touch with them thru emails. They very well may have a solution for 120mm dropout width on phasor! Should get a reply by tommorrow. They are also going to send me a quote for 20 high speed/speed drive. Should come with %20 discount.
Don't know if I'm inclined to man group buy myself. I travel for work, so even though at the moment I'm home, at any given date I might be gone for three months...
Also I am a pretty new member, so no reason why anyone should trust me with there money. After I get quote (so I can give all exact price) ill open new thread see how many people are actually interested, and we can go from there.
For us phasor users that want Schlumpf if they offer a solution for us, I'll purchase one whether or not group buy goes thru.
Be nice if we could make it cheaper though.
Any Schlumpf info you might want here
http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/schlumpf/faq.getriebe.engl.htm

Hyena love your balancing system on your stealth, what's the name and specs of the computer plug your using,
I'm figuring you made that yourself.... Or did it come made?

Fred

 

[Rodney64]

Fred I'm keen but a concern is the chain line. I've had to try a couple of different cranks to get a good chain line. I'm currently running a 53/39 tooth FSA chainset.

This may not be an issue as it may improve my chain line.

Has anyone had good success with there rear derallier and gear shifter shifting though all the gears and what freewheel is everyone using?

I have a 135mm drop out and I'm keen to hear how everyones going.

 

[dimpirate]

I know hdkiller is using a Patterson drive, should be close to same specs as Schlumpf he does use a chain tensioner as well.
What size cranks have you trouble Rodney?
Standard Schlumpf is 27t, I was thinking of getting speed version with 48t crank x1.6 =76.8t. I'm also thinking of adding another smaller crank 27t x 1.6=43.2. Just in case I have to pedal on no power....
Now if I could use a front deraileur on this it would be bad ass!!!! If not no big deal if i get stuck just move chain manually. Wish I could get 11t single freewheel somehow, looking bleak though just settle for 13t.

You think I might have chain line issues? My dropouts will be 156mm as well....

 

[Rodney64]

My dropouts 135. The 156 dropout will be a better chain line than mine so no I don't think you'll have trouble. I haven't tried to fit a derailer to the front and only use the 39 when I pedal and out in the bush. Manually change it.

I think my issue was I tried a diamond tappered crank.

I'm just curious what set ups freewheel people are using on the rear and what derailers.

 

[dimpirate]

Interest in Schlumpf groub buy thread
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47374

 

[morati]

Fred I'm keen but a concern is the chain line. I've had to try a couple of different cranks to get a good chain line. I'm currently running a 53/39 tooth FSA chainset.

This may not be an issue as it may improve my chain line.

Has anyone had good success with there rear derallier and gear shifter shifting though all the gears and what freewheel is everyone using?

I have a 135mm drop out and I'm keen to hear how everyones going.

Rodney, I have no experience (yet) with e-bikes but I know from regular bikes that you want to have perfect chainline (straight chain) when running in your desired front chainring and your middle cog on your freewheel. This can be achieved by running a bottom bracket with adjustable chainline or just a straight bb in the correct length. I believe Phil Wood makes a variety of sizes.....
http://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/ssbb.php

 

[briangv99]

I'm just curious what set ups freewheel people are using on the rear and what derailers.

yep agree chainline is very difficult with the 120mm BB.

I'm using a DNP 11-34t 7 speed freewheel, locked out to using the top 5 gears, by setting the low position adjustment screw on derailleur. Reason for doing this is the chain was misaligned too far to effectively use the first couple gears. Have also disassembled the freewheel cluster and moved the 34t gear to the third position in the cluster, to effectively become 1st gear, and use it just as a limp home gear if the battery runs out.

Also using Middleburn cranks, and a Straitline chain guide to prevent the chain coming off in the lower gears, where the chain is deflected the most.

So far so good

 

[Rodney64]

Thanks for the info about the DNP freewheel. Haven't used a chain guide but I haven't needed one. The 53T seems to keep the chain in place.

Rod

 

[Rix]

Rod, this going to sound funny to you and the other guys but I have built 4 singlespeed mountainbikes in the past. The last one I built I used profile racing cromolly cranks on it. Well the bottom bracket had outsside the bracket extra large mounted cup bearings. When I assembled it the chain line was pretty far out on the chainring. I removed chainring and spider off the crank and flipped it around. It was almost perfect after that. It looked funny as shit but the results were hard to argue with. Don't know if that an option with other cranks but maybe a guy can remove the chainring off the spider and mount it on the inside of the spider.

Rick

 

[morati]

Rod, this going to sound funny to you and the other guys but I have built 4 singlespeed mountainbikes in the past. The last one I built I used profile racing cromolly cranks on it. Well the bottom bracket had outsside the bracket extra large mounted cup bearings. When I assembled it the chain line was pretty far out on the chainring. I removed chainring and spider off the crank and flipped it around. It was almost perfect after that. It looked funny as shit but the results were hard to argue with. Don't know if that an option with other cranks but maybe a guy can remove the chainring off the spider and mount it on the inside of the spider.

Rick

This method is now common practice. Many manufacturers now make larger outer rings specifically to be mounted on the middle chainring position to achieve better chainline. I use one myself on my mtb and converted my three ring setup to a 2 ring using only middle and inner rings. Mine was made by Extralite but TA Specialites (France) and FRM both make conversion kits for certain bolt circles. However if a 120mm bb is too short then it'd probably just be easier to go out and find a longer bb. Those Phil Wood brand ones go right up to 155mm.

 

[Rodney64]

Just finished ballancing my pack using a BC168 charger. used Jonescg,s charger. Thanks Chris. First full ballance in 1800kms and 50 cycles.

 

[jonescg]

Just finished ballancing my pack using a BC168 charger. used Jonescg,s charger. Thanks Chris. First full ballance in 1800kms and 50 cycles.

And it wasn't that far out either. Good stuff those 40C cells eh?

 

[Rodney64]

Yes very good.

 

[Rodney64]

Ride 36 degrees/100F to jonescg to balance my battery



[youtube]Wv584jL3gFM[/youtube]

 

[Rodney64]

Guess what arrived today

Look at the meat on that bad boy

Sending the rim and 4080 off to glow worm cycles to have it laced.

Exciting times ahead

Thanks Rick, pm me your PayPal email and ill pay you some money.

 

[Kepler]

Do you have a 24" rim for the front too? Should look great on this bike 8)

 

[pendragon8000]

looks tuff as!

Do you have a 24" rim for the front too? Should look great on this bike 8)

front wheel being bigger helps handling I beleive...

 

[Rodney64]

Do you have a 24" rim for the front too? Should look great on this bike 8)

At the moment I haven't got a 24 inch rim in a 20mm hub. Might give it a go and see how it handles. It will like more like a dirt bike.