Rodney64
100 kW
Korpin, Just checked my battery and its still sitting on 99.2 volts
Rick, Yes the Norco going well, going for a ride shortly when it cools down. Heat wave in the west and storms and flooding over Hyenas side.Rix said:How is the norco doing?
Rick
Ill run with the knobbly tyre to start with it maybe ok.Rix said:Just in case you don't like the maxxis knobby I sent you. Here are some tires that are trully dual purpose. They all weigh in the 5 pound range (2.4-2.7KG) which is only about 2 pounds (1KG) more than the Duro Razorbacks that come on the Bomber and Fighter. But as I stated before, the little additional weight gain is offset by the large torque increase you will get. Now all of these tires are slightly bigger round than the Maxxis maxicross I have on the way to you.
Rick
Rix said:Now all of these tires are slightly bigger round than the Maxxis maxicross I have on the way to you. That tire is 23" (584mm) and these tires are 23.2 (591)mm for the shinko 275-17, 23.7" or 602mm for the Michielin Gazelle M62 275-17, and the IRC NR53 2.75-17 is 23.5 or about 597mm. All of these tires are about 3.1 inches 80mm wide. Not sure what kind of clearance you have between the swingarm but as long as its 90mm or wider, shouldn't be any problems with clearances.
Rick
That's not the case at all. "bad" cells can range anywhere from 0v up to say 4.1v if the pack is supposedly fully charged and balanced. A bad cell may hold some sort of charge when full but quickly sag under load (eg high internal resistance or otherwise low capacity) or it may fail to get to full charge at sit a say 1-4 v while all the rest fill up.Rodney64 said:If you had bad cells the pack would only display the good cells with no reading from the bad ones.
I wouldn't be happy with one cell that consistently sits that low below the others. Sometimes it only takes pulling that individual cell up (that's where the BC168 charger are brilliant) in line with the ones to make it behave again, sometimes its a sign its on the way out. If you leave it as is though you're costing yourself capacity as that will almost certainly be the first cell to hit LVC (well ahead of the rest) and it's the old story of the chain only being as strong as the weakest link.Note one of my 6S packs range from 4.05 and 4.16 which I think this in the acceptable range.
I'm pretty sure korpin mentioned before his pack is from HPC so will use a BMS and probably has no externally accessable balance taps for him to easily poke and prod at to see what's going on.What equipment do you have to check your packs and what's the range when they are fully charged? Do you bulk charge or balance charge each 6S pack.
Rodney, I have no experience (yet) with e-bikes but I know from regular bikes that you want to have perfect chainline (straight chain) when running in your desired front chainring and your middle cog on your freewheel. This can be achieved by running a bottom bracket with adjustable chainline or just a straight bb in the correct length. I believe Phil Wood makes a variety of sizes.....Rodney64 said:Fred I'm keen but a concern is the chain line. I've had to try a couple of different cranks to get a good chain line. I'm currently running a 53/39 tooth FSA chainset.
This may not be an issue as it may improve my chain line.
Has anyone had good success with there rear derallier and gear shifter shifting though all the gears and what freewheel is everyone using?
I have a 135mm drop out and I'm keen to hear how everyones going.
Rodney64 said:I'm just curious what set ups freewheel people are using on the rear and what derailers.
This method is now common practice. Many manufacturers now make larger outer rings specifically to be mounted on the middle chainring position to achieve better chainline. I use one myself on my mtb and converted my three ring setup to a 2 ring using only middle and inner rings. Mine was made by Extralite but TA Specialites (France) and FRM both make conversion kits for certain bolt circles. However if a 120mm bb is too short then it'd probably just be easier to go out and find a longer bb. Those Phil Wood brand ones go right up to 155mm.Rix said:Rod, this going to sound funny to you and the other guys but I have built 4 singlespeed mountainbikes in the past. The last one I built I used profile racing cromolly cranks on it. Well the bottom bracket had outsside the bracket extra large mounted cup bearings. When I assembled it the chain line was pretty far out on the chainring. I removed chainring and spider off the crank and flipped it around. It was almost perfect after that. It looked funny as shit but the results were hard to argue with. Don't know if that an option with other cranks but maybe a guy can remove the chainring off the spider and mount it on the inside of the spider.
Rick
Rodney64 said:Just finished ballancing my pack using a BC168 charger. used Jonescg,s charger. Thanks Chris. First full ballance in 1800kms and 50 cycles.
front wheel being bigger helps handling I beleive...Kepler said:Do you have a 24" rim for the front too? Should look great on this bike 8)
Kepler said:Do you have a 24" rim for the front too? Should look great on this bike 8)