E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

dimpirate said:
Rix said:
dimpirate said:
Hey korpin,
Don't know if I'm going with 24" dh rims and 2.5 hookworms
Or 19" motorcycle rim with dual sport tires 3" rear 2.7" front

Dimpirate, in the pic, I have a 19x2.50 Bridgestone M23 mini motocross tire on the rear mounted to a prowheel racing rim 19x1.4. Outer Diameter of that tire is 24.7 and width is 3" even. The front is a 24"MTB rim that came stock on the stealth with a 24x3 Duro Razorback tire. I went to the motorcycle tire because I was constantly pinch flatting the duro on the rear. Since going to this setup, I have 644 miles and no flats yet. I will probably go to a 17" rear and a 3x17 Shinko SR241 trials tire which has an OD of 23.7. I thought the pic may help you with your decision.

Rick

Thanks Rick,
I like how you put it about DH rim being "adequate"! With all the money I'm putting into phasor frame I may as well go for the motorcycle rim!
I've got a set of 17" rims I can get at a good price, though wanted to go with 19" to keep a bit more of a bicycle look going, guess 1" diameter +- shouldn't be to bad....
I definattely like the shinko 244 motorcycle tire.
Picture helps the duro your running on front wheel looks more Iike a motorcycle tire than the rear 3" tire!! :shock: .
What length cranks are most of you using on 17" to avoid hitting ground?

Fred

Fred. I don't think it'll matter to much what size crank you go for. What gives the ground clearance is the fork and shock length. you are using 8 inch forks on the front and 9 1/2 on rear this will give plenty of clearance. The height of the red stand is 400mm with the bike off the ground rough guess 50mm. Edited

In the photo the bike is running with the 26 inch wheels.

I'm planning on going the 17 inch motor cycle rim on rear with the 24 inch MBT rim on the front. Currently have 170mm cranks

1056FDDE-5183-4B63-BCDD-1955FC27757E-217-00000472D0F819C6_zps86ef1081.jpg
 
Hi guys. I just put my order in for a phasor frame and after to speaking to David he said he could shave down the bottom bracket a little? Would that improve the chainline at all? If not what would be the benefit of doing that??
 
I have the 135mm dropout and it may help. But you need to remember the frames 100mm's wide. Shaving the bottom bracket brings the front chain ring close to the frame. Having the 150mm dropout will give you an extra 7mm. Korpin has the 150mm rear dropouts. What your thoughts korpin.
 
Ok guys, this one with the Cromotor and 100V lipos, good forks and tires. Would this bike be comparable to a Bomber? I am thinking about quality and handling wise. The speed and aceleration would def. be better on the Phasor, right?
How much would a Phasor build set me back with all the components and shiping/taxaes? The Bomber to my country would set be back 13000USD.
My guess without taxes:
Frame - 2100usd?
motor/controller/CA - 1000usd?
24s/20Ah/30Ah and charger - 1500usd?
tyres/forks/rims - 3000usd?

What else?
 
Allex said:
...
My guess without taxes:
Frame - 2100usd?
motor/controller/CA - 1000usd?
24s/20Ah/30Ah and charger - 1500usd?
tyres/forks/rims - 3000usd?

What else?

What about brakes ? ;)
 
Allex said:
Ok guys, this one with the Cromotor and 100V lipos, good forks and tires. Would this bike be comparable to a Bomber? I am thinking about quality and handling wise. The speed and aceleration would def. be better on the Phasor, right?
How much would a Phasor build set me back with all the components and shiping/taxaes? The Bomber to my country would set be back 13000USD.
My guess without taxes:
Frame - 2100usd?
motor/controller/CA - 1000usd?
24s/20Ah/30Ah and charger - 1500usd?
tyres/forks/rims - 3000usd?

What else?

Allex, you are in the ball park with the lipos and frame. But unless you get your tires, forks, rims and components used on ebay, add at lease another grand onto that. A good fork will run you $1000 -$1700 easily by itself. Decent shock $400-$600. Thats not including the 25% import tax Sweden has (based on your price quote of $13000USD for the Bomber) If you can get RST to sell you a fork directly, it will cost you 580USD and then shipping and tax on top of that. If you go with the cromotor, you will probably want to use the methtek controller that Methods has designed specifically for the cromotor $1100. With shipping and tax, figure at least $1400 USD not including the CA. IMO, if you build a high powered Cromotor driven phasor, you should use the best Downhill MTB components available. You will want to do this not just because it will ride nice, but more importantly for safety reasons. Minus the RST fork option (and the RST Fork is super strong but heavy), everything on the Bombers and Fighters component wise is top notch DH stuff. The brakes, head set, cranks, front wheel, tires, handlebars, brakes, seat and post and thats not mentioning the Vboxx and Schlumpf. You could build up a Phasor with cheaper components and it will make an excellent dirt road bike and paved road bike, but if you want the Phasor to realy shine, go with high quality Down Hill components. You wont regret it. 8)
 
Thank you all
methtek at 1100buks is quite high. Wy would I buy that instead of, say 24FET lyen
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19612 of 1/3 of the price?
 
Allex said:
Thank you all
methtek at 1100buks is quite high. Wy would I buy that instead of, say 24FET lyen
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19612 of 1/3 of the price?

Well thats combined pricing for the controller and Cromotor hub motor, the controller itself will run you 420-450 I think. Rod has a current price list. You could get an 18 or 24 fet controller and flash the traces with copper and lots of solder and copperwrap solder up the shunt. Then you get software to recalibrate the shunt values because the values changed since resistance has been increased. But being that my one weak area is controllers, I would go with Methods pre built controller. Plus you would have access to awesome customer support for you controller. Just my 2 cents which wont get you shit these days.

Rick
 
...and if you want you can get a used stealth / rst fork from me ;)

I will replace it by a fox40 for offroad riding performance.
 
Alex, don't bother with the sight just email! Methods controller has way more power than Lyen 24 fet. Just imagine a Lyen controller with all the mods you might want to do in the future already there + more!!
 
dimpirate said:
Alex, don't bother with the sight just email! Methods controller has way more power than Lyen 24 fet. Just imagine a Lyen controller with all the mods you might want to do in the future already there + more!!
is there a link to methods controllers? sounds prety amazing.. what upgrades/mods are done on said controller?
edit:
found: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13638#p202362 100v 100a yeehaa mofo's
 
Rodney64 said:
I have the 135mm dropout and it may help. But you need to remember the frames 100mm's wide. Shaving the bottom bracket brings the front chain ring close to the frame. Having the 150mm dropout will give you an extra 7mm. Korpin has the 150mm rear dropouts. What your thoughts korpin.

well all I can say is with my 150 arms and 4065 motor I can use a 9 speed cassette BUT:

I had to put chain ring on backwards (facing bike)..see photo

I must not go backwards (on biggest cassette gear only) or chain will come off....other 8 gears are fine backwards or forwards

which brings me to a point for you guys considering shclumph gears...will the shclumph push the chain ring out even farther?...thinking of the 2.5 high speed with 27 t

http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/schlumpf/faq.getriebe.engl.htm
 

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As with the chain ring fitted, there is no issue with putting in spacers tot improve the chain line even further as long as toy can make it clear everythng. Advantage with the Schlumpf is that because the chain ring will be small, say 36 tooth, it gives you lots of clearance with your chain stays. A 36 tooth Schlumpf will give you the equivalent of a 59 tooth ring gear in overdrive. I love my schlumpf in my fighter.
 
Kepler said:
As with the chain ring fitted, there is no issue with putting in spacers tot improve the chain line even further as long as toy can make it clear everythng. Advantage with the Schlumpf is that because the chain ring will be small, say 36 tooth, it gives you lots of clearance with your chain stays. A 36 tooth Schlumpf will give you the equivalent of a 59 tooth ring gear in overdrive. I love my schlumpf in my fighter.

Hey Kepler, at what speeds are you able to pedal in overdrive?
 
Hey guys. I just ordered another phasor frame since my last one had been badly damaged in shipping and I still have most of the parts that was planning to use on the previous frame but I want to build this one up around a different motor and controller. I wanted some input from other people in what setup they would go with if they were starting over.
 
I'm looking for the motor,controller and battery setup running a 19 inch front moped rim and 17 inch rear and looking to get some serious acceration and torque with about a top speed of about 45-50 mph
 
Scratch1973 said:
I'm looking for the motor,controller and battery setup running a 19 inch front moped rim and 17 inch rear and looking to get some serious acceration and torque with about a top speed of about 45-50 mph

Scratch, I don't have a Phasor, but I have been researching tons of stuff because I am thinking about modding my Bomber down the road and this could applid to a Phasor build. Lipos, to get 45-50 Mph, need to consider atleast a 20s setup running a 50 amp controller or more (4+KW Peak). 20s is good for a conservative 83 volts hot off the charger. Running a Crystalyte 4080 will give you 45-50MPH with a 17" rear motorcycle wheel running a tire with an OD of 23-23.5 inches. If you run a 4065, you will need to step up to a 24S setup to get similiar top speed and will have alot more acceleration than the 4080. Kelly makes a 6kw and 8kw controller thats specific for Crystalyte hub motors. If money isn't an object and you don't mind a little more weight, go with the new Cromotor and Methods controller. I think this will ultimately be the hottest conventional hub motor setup coming down the line for Ebikes. The Cromotor weighs about 6 pounds less than Crystalytes mighty 54XX series motors and (by my speculation) should have more torque because the stator is 10mm wider. I wish I could see a side by side comparison of the 5404 and Cromotor with a 4 turn stator wind. That would give specific details about the performance differences between the two motors and I wouldn't be speculating. One of the ideas I am throwing around is going to 20s 23ah Lipo set up. Thats close to 1900watts or 1550watts usable. Kelly 8KW controller running 100 amps for 8.3 KW Peak should make my Bomber a quick accelerating machine with the 5404 on it with a top speed of 45MPH. Wells it goes that fast now but I am only pulling 5.6KW peak through it right now. Rod has a really nice Lipo pack in his Phasor, cant rember, but I think he is running lipo 24s unit with 15Ah. HD Killer has almost 3000wh of lipos in his frame. That just blows my mind. As far as your rims selections go, if you haven't got them yet, go to Prowheel Racing and look at their line of Yamaha playbike rims. The rims have 36 hole drill and they have them sized in 17x1.4 and 19x1.4. If you give Gary your hub dimensions, he can cut spokes for you, or you can send him the hub and he will lace it up for you. Those rims are not much heavier than the rims that came on my bomber. Infact the 17" may weigh less. My avatar pic shows a 19x1.4 and Bridgestone 70x100-19 M403 on the rear with a 24x3 Duro Razorback tire on a standard 24"MTB rim up front.

Rick
 
Scratch1973 said:
Hey guys. I just ordered another phasor frame since my last one had been badly damaged in shipping and I still have most of the parts that was planning to use on the previous frame but I want to build this one up around a different motor and controller. I wanted some input from other people in what setup they would go with if they were starting over.
What are you doing with your current phasor frame? Returning it for a partial refund towards another frame? You changing the color and what not? Guess they don't send them out with insurance, that's a real bummer they should make it mandatory. How long is the wait time?
 
Rix. I have been discussing this topic with Rodney alittle and I think I'm leaning toward either the cromotor setup or the 4065 setup, still not sure. One thing I was concerned with is the drivetrain with the cromotor. Can you use a 7 speed freewheel with it? As far as the rims I was thinking of just having JRH build them up , is that not a good idea??
 
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