E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[proper159]

Thx Allex, gonna order the replacement from Stealth for the Torque plate. I still have both plates, just missing the screw on the right side as it broke off. I'll check the link.

 

[proper159]

Allex, how would I install those waterproof connectors? Do I need to rewire anything or follow a specific procedure?

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Allex, how would I install those waterproof connectors? Do I need to rewire anything or follow a specific procedure?

I agree with Allex, the problem is most likely the stupid 5 pin connector. I washed my bike once, lightly with a hose and it acted up until it dried 2 days later. That's the only time I've ever had any trouble with it. Since then I've only gave it sponge baths, and never had any other trouble.

I'll probably order one of those water proof connectors too. The way I would install it would be to cut off the original connector, and solder the new one on, and use heat shrink tubing on all the solder joints. At the same time I'll move the connector to under the swing arm so it will be easier to reach to disconnect.

 

[proper159]

Thanks guys, wish these bikes were Canadian weather proof!

 

[proper159]

Allex, how would I install those waterproof connectors? Do I need to rewire anything or follow a specific procedure?

I agree with Allex, the problem is most likely the stupid 5 pin connector. I washed my bike once, lightly with a hose and it acted up until it dried 2 days later. That's the only time I've ever had any trouble with it. Since then I've only gave it sponge baths, and never had any other trouble.

I'll probably order one of those water proof connectors too. The way I would install it would be to cut off the original connector, and solder the new one on, and use heat shrink tubing on all the solder joints. At the same time I'll move the connector to under the swing arm so it will be easier to reach to disconnect.

TV which five pin connection are you referring to? The connections underneath the rear shock or the one connected to the mortor underneath the right disc brake?

 

[Allex]

No need to cut the wires, open up the stock Crystalyte connector(round one with 5 thin wires going in to it) en desolder the wires from it.
Then buy the waterproof one and solder the old wires(from motor and controller) to it.

Proper, all the connectors are underneath the shock. There should not be any connectors under the disc rotor.
My connector:

 

[proper159]

No need to cut the wires, open up the stock Crystalyte connector(round one with 5 thin wires going in to it) en desolder the wires from it.
Then buy the waterproof one and solder the old wires(from motor and controller) to it.

Proper, all the connectors are underneath the shock. There should not be any connectors under the disc rotor.
My connector:

Okay amazing thanks for the info. Does this solve the problem of the motor cutting out?

 

[proper159]

How about the other cables? I have a feeling the water affected those single wires.

 

[Allex]

They should be fine, those are heavy duty and have very good contact, compared to the hall sensor connector.

 

[Rix]

That's awesome Allex, between your modified charging jack, your Emax, and sensor upgrade, you pretty much got it all sorted out for any type of weather. Sweet!!!

 

[Longshot]

I got an 18 FET 4115 MOSFET 84-132V Real Highway Speed Controller from Lyen. He also double stacked the traces. If I connect the controller to the bomber, what should I set my max amps to with the stock 2013 battery and motor? Do I need to do anything to the motor to keep it from melting? I don't care about warranty and I'm building a raptor so I'm not worried about the motor that much. I have the waterproofing stuff but I want to be able to get home in the rain(with power). I want more acceleration.

 

[Rix]

I got an 18 FET 4115 MOSFET 84-132V Real Highway Speed Controller from Lyen. He also double stacked the traces. If I connect the controller to the bomber, what should I set my max amps to with the stock 2013 battery and motor? Do I need to do anything to the motor to keep it from melting? I don't care about warranty and I'm building a raptor so I'm not worried about the motor that much. I have the waterproofing stuff but I want to be able to get home in the rain(with power). I want more acceleration.

On your controller, do you know what peak DC amps it capable of pulling from the battery? Yah with beefed/flashed traces, and increased copper and wire fill on the shunt, more current will flow for sure. 4115 Fets for the bombers stock pack voltage isn't necessary, but down the road should you go to 22s or 24S or more that will come in handy. Because I don't know that much about Lyen controllers, or controllers in general, and you noted its set up for 84-132 volts, I would ask Lyen since those voltages are north of the operating range of the Bombers battery which is 70-80 volts more or less. As far as your motor goes, some conservative venting should go a long way in keeping heat down. Here is my motor with eight 1/2" (12.52mm) holes drilled in the hub. On the other side, they are ass close to the center I as could get without going into the protrusion where the rear brake disk mounts. This is very conservative venting and does cool things down. Can't give you heat temp numbers, but I can tell you its a big difference from when it was not vented in terms of how hot the stator covers were to the touch. With some venting, it should be able to handle 6kw continues with bursts of up to 10kw without any drama, as long as the wheel is turning and you are moving with some air flow. I suppose on a 100F+ day climbing a long steep hill at max throttle and only going 10MPH would darken the stator after a bit at 6KW, but a little mechanical sympathy and these big 54xx can handle a lot.

Rick

 

[Rix]

Took the new Fighter over to Stealth today to show John and Al. Managed to get a bit of footage of the bike in action with Al riding it and doing what does best. As you can see, the little BPM has plenty of torque and has no problems popping the bike onto its back wheel and holding it. [youtube]3EgShvl5KvY[/youtube]

Figured it was time to repost this Kep.

Rick

 

[Allex]

Nice vid!

 

[Longshot]

I got an 18 FET 4115 MOSFET 84-132V Real Highway Speed Controller from Lyen. He also double stacked the traces. If I connect the controller to the bomber, what should I set my max amps to with the stock 2013 battery and motor? Do I need to do anything to the motor to keep it from melting? I don't care about warranty and I'm building a raptor so I'm not worried about the motor that much. I have the waterproofing stuff but I want to be able to get home in the rain(with power). I want more acceleration.

On your controller, do you know what peak DC amps it capable of pulling from the battery? Yah with beefed/flashed traces, and increased copper and wire fill on the shunt, more current will flow for sure. 4115 Fets for the bombers stock pack voltage isn't necessary, but down the road should you go to 22s or 24S or more that will come in handy. Because I don't know that much about Lyen controllers, or controllers in general, and you noted its set up for 84-132 volts, I would ask Lyen since those voltages are north of the operating range of the Bombers battery which is 70-80 volts more or less. As far as your motor goes, some conservative venting should go a long way in keeping heat down. Here is my motor with eight 1/2" (12.52mm) holes drilled in the hub. On the other side, they are ass close to the center I as could get without going into the protrusion where the rear brake disk mounts. This is very conservative venting and does cool things down. Can't give you heat temp numbers, but I can tell you its a big difference from when it was not vented in terms of how hot the stator covers were to the touch. With some venting, it should be able to handle 6kw continues with bursts of up to 10kw without any drama, as long as the wheel is turning and you are moving with some air flow. I suppose on a 100F+ day climbing a long steep hill at max throttle and only going 10MPH would darken the stator after a bit at 6KW, but a little mechanical sympathy and these big 54xx can handle a lot.

Rick

I didnt get any specs with it. He installed a voltage switch so I can select 36-90 or 91-125v. I'll ask him about the peak DC amps. Yeah, I'll do some holes in the cover.

 

[Allex]

Hm...Why would you want to switch your stock controller with the lyen highway on a factory battery?
Stock controller= 60A (80v*60A=4800Watts)
Lyen=45A (80V*45=3600W)
So this means less power after the switch.
If you want to take advantage of your Lyen your Voltage needs to be more than 110V(110V*45=4950Watts). It is designed for high voltage setups.

And yeah vent those covers like Rick said. Nice and clean venting holes there btw. I need to do something similar and be ready for the summer!

 

[Longshot]

Why would you want to switch your stock controller with the lyen highway on a factory battery?
Stock controller= 60A (80v*60A=4800Watts)
Lyen=45A (80V*45=3600W)
So this means less power after the switch.
If you want to take advantage of your Lyen your Voltage needs to be more than 110V(110V*45=4950Watts). It is designed for high voltage setups.

And yeah vent those covers like Rick said. Nice and clean venting holes there btw. I need to do something similar and be ready for the summer!

I got the controller for my raptor project. I think with the beefed up traces it can do 80 amps. How many more amps can I put into a vented motor at 80v?

 

[Kepler]

Keep in mind 4115 FETS are less efficient than the 4110 FETS that come in the stock Bomber controller so 80A is going to run hotter on the 4115 controller then the stock controller. That being said, the Lyen controller is a good controller. I use to run mine at 90A and 130V (short bursts of course) 80A will be OK, just make sure you monitor the temp of the controller. Its the low speed hard acceleration that really heats up these controllers quickly.

 

[Kepler]

Took the new Fighter over to Stealth today to show John and Al. Managed to get a bit of footage of the bike in action with Al riding it and doing what does best. As you can see, the little BPM has plenty of torque and has no problems popping the bike onto its back wheel and holding it.

Figured it was time to repost this Kep.

Rick

Haven't seen that one for a while. Still loving my light Weight Fighter. Current config is 20S Lipo. 84V hot off the charger. 800Whr usable capacity. 3000W peak, and 65kph top speed. All with a little code 12 Bafang all running off a tiny 6 FET controller 8) . Fighters are the best your know

 

[Rix]

Hm...Why would you want to switch your stock controller with the lyen highway on a factory battery?
Stock controller= 60A (80v*60A=4800Watts)
Lyen=45A (80V*45=3600W)
So this means less power after the switch.
If you want to take advantage of your Lyen your Voltage needs to be more than 110V(110V*45=4950Watts). It is designed for high voltage setups.

And yeah vent those covers like Rick said. Nice and clean venting holes there btw. I need to do something similar and be ready for the summer!

Yah Allex thats why I was asking about the potential DC amps capability of the Lyen. As you and Kepler both pointed out, not really any advantage over the stock unit for the stock battery.

Rick

 

[Rix]

Took the new Fighter over to Stealth today to show John and Al. Managed to get a bit of footage of the bike in action with Al riding it and doing what does best. As you can see, the little BPM has plenty of torque and has no problems popping the bike onto its back wheel and holding it.

Figured it was time to repost this Kep.

Rick

Haven't seen that one for a while. Still loving my light Weight Fighter. Current config is 20S Lipo. 84V hot off the charger. 800Whr usable capacity. 3000W peak, and 65kph top speed. All with a little code 12 Bafang all running off a tiny 6 FET controller 8) . Fighters are the best your know

You know, I got the funniest feeling that Fighters are really the best. :wink:

 

[fsmuggen]

I'm quite happy with my fighter, Now when everything is up running, working perfect.
I have the tc100 on a 24" rim from ebikes.ca I made some spacers between the frame and motor from stainless steel pipe.
I changed the nuts to stainless steel halfnuts. I wired up 10mm2 wires from the controller to the entry of the motor.
I got my controller from Kevin Gu at aliexpress. It's rated for 7000w 60-120v 130A
The batterypack is from vipower.biz I ordered a li ion pack 22cell 90v with 70A continious discharge.
I have set the current limit to 90A on the CA, keep it the current under 60A most of the time, unless I need to make a unusually fast streetlight starts.
Top speed is about 90kph, acceleration is quite fast too.



I have to agree with you Rix, the fighter must be the best

 

[Rix]

FSMuggen, nice set up on your Fighter. Light and fast, who wouldn't want that?! How is the heat management with the Tc100?

 

[Allex]

Those traces are sick! What did you do with the old battery?

 

[cut cat]

What happen to freegopower 136*120*350mm 22S 20AH LiNiCoMn.?

What are the specs and price on 22s from Vipower? I can find it on www.vipower.biz