Mid drive chain efficiency and longevity tips
- Thread starter neptronix
- Start date
I occasionally use a thriftstore-find crockpot to melt broken rubber handgrips, wristrests, etc., and recast those by pouring it into plaster molds.
I use a different bigger one to slow-cook chili, or stew, etc. I don't usually have to plug it in for that--at least in summer, just putting the crock part out in the sun inside a black-painted styrofoam cooler with an open top, and glass lid on the crockpot and the cooler is enough to cook it over the hours of daylight.
I use a different bigger one to slow-cook chili, or stew, etc. I don't usually have to plug it in for that--at least in summer, just putting the crock part out in the sun inside a black-painted styrofoam cooler with an open top, and glass lid on the crockpot and the cooler is enough to cook it over the hours of daylight.
Induction cooktop?
ZeroEm
10 MW
Have one of them, like it guess I can use it or buy another.
ZeroEm
10 MW
Yea, it gets real hot here. I have an old crock pot just the pot. Paint it black and put some wax in there and see what happens. Zero energy.
ZeroEm
10 MW
A lot of things were gross in the late 70's and early 80's, spent 17yrs out there.
Chalo
100 TW
On a related note (related to 90wt oil on chains), there are a number of "wet conditions" bicycle chain lubes out there that are a sticky disgusting mess if you make the mistake of using them. Anything gooey or tacky not only makes your chain into a crap magnet, but it probably doesn't even consistently wick all the way into the pins and bushings where it's needed.
A volunteer at the community bike shop where I work once refilled all the Triflow bottles on the workbenches with some ungodly syrupy "chain lube" that has no business being anywhere near a chain. It took weeks to work through that mess, and I couldn't use any of it for normal chain oil duties. (Chains, index shifters, brake pivots, lever pivots, and derailleur pivots all need light lube that finds its way completely through the mechanism when you apply it to the outside.)
My favorite such lube is a bio-based, radically penetrating oil called Superzilla, which is unfortunately too expensive to use as an everyday chain lubricant. But I routinely use it to unstick click shifters that have gummed up and stopped working. A lil squirt or two applied anywhere on the shifter gubbins not only wicks through the entire thing, but loosens up gummy grease or oil that has immobilized the latches.
Question for those who are removing their chains to rewax:
Do you reuse the quick links?
Have a supply of spare quick links?
My waxing days were in the 80s, before quick links were a thing. Driving the pins out and in was a major PIA of the process.
Do you reuse the quick links?
Have a supply of spare quick links?
My waxing days were in the 80s, before quick links were a thing. Driving the pins out and in was a major PIA of the process.
Even new they are cheaper than most of the waxes.....
Slow Cooker Crock Pot Black 2 Quart, New Programmable Oval Small Families Single | eBay
The 2 quart capacity is ideal for singles, couples, or small families where smaller portions are preferred. The black matte exterior of this slow cooker is not only durable and long-lasting, but also stylish and modern, making it a great addition to any kitchen.
ebay.us
I've tried to convince myself to use wax but I just can't seem to justify the benefits over the added hassle. After all, chains are pretty inexpensive and only take a minute or two to lube with something like Muc-Off Dry (my preferred).
Nothing about that ad is likely true, other than that you'd be spending money on something. 
It says it's programmable, but obviously is not, and it says it's two levels, but it has three (not including off), etc. Can't tell about the dimensions, power, or anything else... 
It says it's programmable, but obviously is not, and it says it's two levels, but it has three (not including off), etc. Can't tell about the dimensions, power, or anything else... I'm sure things are distorted but for under $15 you get a pot that will wax a chain. After all, there are dozens of sellers and Ebay would have tossed them long ago if they didn't deliver. The buyer has the advantage on Ebay.
Sure...I just prefer to ensure that what is being sold is what is being advertised, and unless no alternative at all is available, never feed the places that lie about what they sell.
Chalo
100 TW
Nah, just submerge the whole bike in hot wax. If it's such a miracle on the chain, surely it's equally marvelous for all the bike's other moving parts, and will make the thing last forever.
Oh I looked it up and it surely seems quite nice indeed, but importing it to Europe makes it unfortunately really expensive..
scianiac
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2018
- Messages
- 699
I just reuse them, never had one break. I think quick links are made much like chains, any name brand will be built to the industry standard which I guess for chains is 8000N which is kinda weird because you look at tests and you expect super heavy chains to be way stronger and they end up being only a little stronger than a super thin 11 speed or something. They just use steel strong enough for the application, no need to make a 6 speed chain from the same high strength steel as the 12 speed unless it's a special cargo bike chain or something designed to exceed the industry standard.
I only use reusable quick links.
lnanek
10 kW
circuitsmith
10 W
I ride on city streets, grimy but not super dusty, rain on a regular basis.
I rode to work for 31 years, 25 of those on ebikes, through weather fair and foul. (now retired)
I tried wax at one point. Found it more trouble than it's worth.
And if I rode through a few rainy days in a row and didn't have time to fiddle with re-lubing it quickly killed the chain.
I'm too cheap to pay $$ for little bottles of bike specific lubes, so I've tried what's already on hand at home or work:
various light machine oils, chainsaw bar oil, which lasts longer but attracts more dirt.
My current favorite is Honda Manual Transmission Fluid, a low viscosity gear oil.
Doesn't attract much dirt, and my chains are lasting longer.
I had 1/2 qt left over from my 1988 Accord and I think it will last a very long time.
I no longer bother removing the chain, degreasing etc.
I just wipe the outside crud off with an old (but clean) sock when it's time to re-lube.
I rode to work for 31 years, 25 of those on ebikes, through weather fair and foul. (now retired)
I tried wax at one point. Found it more trouble than it's worth.
And if I rode through a few rainy days in a row and didn't have time to fiddle with re-lubing it quickly killed the chain.
I'm too cheap to pay $$ for little bottles of bike specific lubes, so I've tried what's already on hand at home or work:
various light machine oils, chainsaw bar oil, which lasts longer but attracts more dirt.
My current favorite is Honda Manual Transmission Fluid, a low viscosity gear oil.
Doesn't attract much dirt, and my chains are lasting longer.
I had 1/2 qt left over from my 1988 Accord and I think it will last a very long time.
I no longer bother removing the chain, degreasing etc.
I just wipe the outside crud off with an old (but clean) sock when it's time to re-lube.
Last edited:
^-- i love those, i've been experimenting with mid drives and all sorts of different ratios and chain length, i have some of these that are both high mileage in terms of riding and also high mileages in terms of connections/disconnections. And they just keep working.
Here's an off kilter thought - why don't bikes have dust shields anymore?
money, style?
Side note. I have a lightest.bike mid drive that i'm running through a VESC. It's got two chains, so the friction is ~2x.
( the chain has since been properly tensioned since taking this picture )
With the chain in a totally average state of lubrication..
No load watts with no chain is 60w, connected to the chain it's 90w.
I would imagine that this 30w of friction climbs under load.. but i don't have a bike trainer or DD hub motor to test that.
I plan to switch all of my bikes to drip wax soon since it's the best thing for our dusty environment that can turn a regular liquid lube black in a single ride.
Will report back with what the friction reduction looks like at idle before/after.
( the chain has since been properly tensioned since taking this picture )
With the chain in a totally average state of lubrication..
No load watts with no chain is 60w, connected to the chain it's 90w.
I would imagine that this 30w of friction climbs under load.. but i don't have a bike trainer or DD hub motor to test that.
I plan to switch all of my bikes to drip wax soon since it's the best thing for our dusty environment that can turn a regular liquid lube black in a single ride.
Will report back with what the friction reduction looks like at idle before/after.
I've tried a few different commercial chain lubes in a bottle which were around $13 to 16 a bottle. They all become sticky and difficult to wipe off unless you add more of it to dilute. I am now trying 10W40 motor oil which is not sticky and easy to wipe. Motor oil is easily & precisely applied with a pipette. I carry everything needed in the under seat pouch and do the chain lube/ wipe routine when I'm out doing my aerobic ride in the local park while taking a break. Motor oil is much less messy compared to stinky commercial chain lubes in a bottle (hard to control and tends to spill too much). I am monitoring chain stretch with the tool and will see how long the chain lasts.
On my 43 lb Raleigh TSDZ2 mid drive , 30w of motor assist will move me and bike along at around 9 mph on the flats. 90w probably around 12 to 15 mph.
hillslayer@
100 W
I don't get the wax is lot more work argument. It's super easy to pull the chain drop it in a pot of wax even you do this every 100 miles not a big deal.
How long does that take you from start to finish including prep?
