E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

I use to push the lower part out a bit first then I slide the top to the other side so I get some room to disconnect the connectors. The charger line is the easiest to disconnect, don't throw away the red locking pin.. then disconnect the main connector. When connecting, you should make the connection fast, firm and with the right polarity.. if you do manage to make it wrong.. you will know...
 
mattrb said:
QuietRush said:
I'm selling those racks with the custom stealth rack elements kit via http://store.quietrush.com.au/racks.html but will also shortly have my older style single bike rack available for purchase 2nd hand.

I am looking for a rack like this in the states. Does this rack support my 3in duro razorback tires? And are you shipping to America (without the tax too).

Hi mattrb, yes, we can organise shipping to the states for the rack, they should support the razorbacks as these are the standard stealth tyre. Export prices to other countries typically exclude GST. Will need to get some quotes sorted for our most competitive shipping rate, suggest you get in touch with me via PM or at info@quietrush.com.au
 
proper159 said:
What's the best process of removing the battery from the frame, I.e. which cables to unattach first? And then the process of re attaching the cables. I tend to create a shock everytime with the big square cable. I have to take the battery in order to reattach the seat frame.

Exactly as fsmuggen says...just to add, that shock or arc on contact is reassuringly normal. If you don't get it, that's much more reason for concern.
 
fsmuggen said:
I use to push the lower part out a bit first then I slide the top to the other side so I get some room to disconnect the connectors. The charger line is the easiest to disconnect, don't throw away the red locking pin.. then disconnect the main connector. When connecting, you should make the connection fast, firm and with the right polarity.. if you do manage to make it wrong.. you will know...
Thanks for the tips, thx Remf too.
 
QuietRush said:
mattrb said:
QuietRush said:
I'm selling those racks with the custom stealth rack elements kit via http://store.quietrush.com.au/racks.html but will also shortly have my older style single bike rack available for purchase 2nd hand.

I am looking for a rack like this in the states. Does this rack support my 3in duro razorback tires? And are you shipping to America (without the tax too).

Hi mattrb, yes, we can organise shipping to the states for the rack, they should support the razorbacks as these are the standard stealth tyre. Export prices to other countries typically exclude GST. Will need to get some quotes sorted for our most competitive shipping rate, suggest you get in touch with me via PM or at info@quietrush.com.au
That rack looks perfect. How do you get the Stealth on there without straining your back. Does the rack tilt and then lift up?
 
proper159 said:
That rack looks perfect. How do you get the Stealth on there without straining your back. Does the rack tilt and then lift up?

Hi proper159, It's pretty straightforward - just do one wheel at a time. Hold the back brake on, pull back on the bars to get the front wheel lifted, positioned and secured, then lift the bike by the end of the swing arm and position/secure the rear wheel, then drop the frame anchor down. If you're using the earlier rack, the pedal just needs to be located into a piece of steel channel. Might do a short instructional video for the page to demonstrate..
 
First Backflip ever on a Stealth

Jack Field Backflip.jpg

http://instagram.com/p/qXsy5bqNiW/
 

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remf said:
First Backflip ever on a Stealth



http://instagram.com/p/qXsy5bqNiW/

WooHoo! He's done it! Jack is an awesome freestyle trials rider, holds the world record for worlds lowest backflip (off a small kicker) with his GasGas trials bike. Great to see him twisting a Hurricane like that..if you ever get a chance to check out his FlairRiders http://flairriders.com trials arena show, its well worth it. His team of riders are world class entertainers..
 
I suppose I better post this here, and hand back my permission slip to post in this thread...
Jay, not that you need my approval, but allow me to invite you to keep your permission for posting on this thread. Hell, the Fighter is where it is for the rider R&D you did. I would say that serves as a green light to keep commenting as you see fit for the thread. On another note, your vid was an excellent tribute to your mechanized travel friend. :mrgreen:
 
Sorry to see your fighter go. I feel kinda sad when I've posted out my last few custom frames, but you can't ride them all all of the time! 8)
 
Rix said:
Jay, not that you need my approval, but allow me to invite you to keep your permission for posting on this thread.
Heh I was only kidding, there's plenty of other non-owners posting here. But thanks. I trust stealth got some good advertising from my vids. I know I've gotten a hell of alot of PMs and messages on youtube etc over the last few years asking about the stealths and which one to buy. If stealth want a fighter to continue to be featured in my vids they know how to contact me :p

On another note, your vid was an excellent tribute to your mechanized travel friend
Thanks, I thought the soundtrack was appropriate for conveying both the sadness to see it go but also the enjoyment from it. Don't get used to the classical music though - it's action and rock from here on out :p

Samd said:
I feel kinda sad when I've posted out my last few custom frames, but you can't ride them all all of the time! 8)
I used to tell myself the same thing every time a pretty girl turned me down and walked away :p
Maybe one day when I'm loaded I can adopt the pokemon ebike philosophy and collect them all :)
 
Hi All,

I am a New Stealth Fighter owner! I purchased a used fighter from the For Sale section of this very forum about 5 or 6 weeks ago. I have been a long time "lurker" of this forum for quite some time, but now I am officially part of the "club".

Anywho, what a blast I am having with the bike. Up until Friday :oops:

I am fairly certain that I have a bad Hall Sensor but let me lay the scene out for ya'll.

Riding along free and happy when the bike begins to shutter and lurch. Intermittent power lots of shuttering. I limped home with the pedals (and my legs) doing the work. After a close inspection of all the connections (including all connections in battery box), a fresh charge on the battery, a BMS reset, and then another closer inspection of the connections but the problem persist. Internet research phase has begun. From what I read... Hall sensor seems to be a prime suspect.

Question 1: The 4 wires under the swing arm. Which include: Larger gauge Black wire with the Multi pin connector, the Green wire, Blue wire and yellow wire. The Colored wires are for the Hall sensors?

Question 2: (Assuming that the colored wires are for the Hall.) I disconnected them one at a time and tested the motor. Green disconnect=no power to wheel. Blue disconnected = no Power, But with just the yellow disconnected the bike performs exactly the same as when the yellow IS connected. Does this represent the Bad sensor?

Question 3: Who can help from here?

Thanks so much to everyone who takes the time to read this and respond.

Cheers - Jeff

this is my bike :D
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=56996
 
morati said:
For the more electronically inclined....Can the stock Bomber 18FET controller be modified to accept loads of 75-90amps?

M, look here, same box but modified:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13638

or PM Rick, I bet he knows some tricks.

Jeff:
Question 1: The 4 wires under the swing arm. Which include: Larger gauge Black wire with the Multi pin connector, the Green wire, Blue wire and yellow wire. The Colored wires are for the Hall sensors?


Multi pin connector is your halls connector. Start from there, could just be water in it. Or a loose wire inside the connector.
Thick Green, Blue, Yeelow are phase wires. They transfer a lot of Amps so they need to be thick.
 
Allex said:
Jeff:
Question 1: The 4 wires under the swing arm. Which include: Larger gauge Black wire with the Multi pin connector, the Green wire, Blue wire and yellow wire. The Colored wires are for the Hall sensors?


Multi pin connector is your halls connector. Start from there, could just be water in it. Or a loose wire inside the connector.
Thick Green, Blue, Yeelow are phase wires. They transfer a lot of Amps so they need to be thick.

Hmmm. I am not sure I understand. Why would bike have power to hub with only the yellow disconnected and not the others? I will triple check multi pin connection.
 
Jeff
If that fails i would take the hub motor apart check all wires in side.
Good luck
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Jimboyr6 said:
Can anyone tell what tyres hes got on ?
Not sure. but when I looked closer I noticed this...


He must have landed hard...looks like he busted the bead!

Cheers

Oh yeah in fact if u slow mo vid hes frocked the rim up good a proper
 
Check the yellow wire connection again. Look to make sure the wires are still seated perfectly and soldered into the connector. Unplug/re-plug the connector, wiggle/pull a bit on the wires to make sure they haven't come loose from the connector. I have had two of those connectors solder fail because they must have got hot and let go. It wasn't obvious until I applied some pressure to the wire and it popped out. If its not that do the same procedure and check all the connections.
 
JeffNukem said:
Hmmm. I am not sure I understand. Why would bike have power to hub with only the yellow disconnected and not the others? I will triple check multi pin connection.

You need to understand how brushless motors work to get your head around it, but in short the windings inside the motor energise in a particular sequence, kind of the same way the spark plugs in your car have to fire correctly and in sequence for the engine to run smoothly. If you yank a spark plug lead the engine will still run, just rough. This symptom in a car though may not necessarily be the spark plug, or the plug lead, it could also be the coil. This is the ebike equivalent of a badly connecting or blown hall (or phase). The fact that it runs the same with the yellow phase wire disconnected means either that phase is down or the hall to that phase isn't sending the signal (more likely the hall if it just suddenly failed going over a large bump or something and weren't flogging it up a hill at the time)
If you've checked the hall connector is connected properly the next thing to do is to unwind the back of the connector so you can see the pins. Chances are one of the wires is broken or has come unsoldered. Quite possibly the blue one
 
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