E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hey does anyone have a line on parts for the Vboxx? Before going into it I wanted to see if anyone knows where to get stuff from. Its out of the 2 year warranty at this point.

thanks fellas.
 
1abv said:
Hey does anyone have a line on parts for the Vboxx? Before going into it I wanted to see if anyone knows where to get stuff from. Its out of the 2 year warranty at this point.

thanks fellas.

I think you can buy direct from Suntour and I expect dlogic on here has contacts. I don't think a lot goes wrong that needs replacing, more a service and reset
 
Justtoby said:
1abv said:
Hey does anyone have a line on parts for the Vboxx? Before going into it I wanted to see if anyone knows where to get stuff from. Its out of the 2 year warranty at this point.

thanks fellas.

I think you can buy direct from Suntour and I expect dlogic on here has contacts. I don't think a lot goes wrong that needs replacing, more a service and reset

+1, Dlogic, aka Martin is the man with anything Vboxx related.
 
Tried to contact suntour no luck.too bad stealth doesn't have a base in the US...
 
http://us6.campaign-archive1.com/?u=0b5aca1d0df714972da4212d1&id=0c483302c1&e=58ac2434a6



What??? It's like you read my mind.....
 
Anyone had to put a mxus v3 into a recent bomber that has the new style display?

I am thinking the temp sensor would need to be switched and the phase wires sorted in order to match the new bomber lcd display?

Possibly easier to fit a better sine wave controller and cav3 and remove the old display but a bit of surgery if so.


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You can always swap out the temp sensor to the "correct" one on mxus and then swap the halls/phase connectors, and it should be it! On the mechanical side you need to space out the drop outs and maybe even work on the disc alignment.
 
Samd said:
Anyone had to put a mxus v3 into a recent bomber that has the new style display?

I am thinking the temp sensor would need to be switched and the phase wires sorted in order to match the new bomber lcd display?

Possibly easier to fit a better sine wave controller and cav3 and remove the old display but a bit of surgery if so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Adding to what you said Sam, either change the temp sensor or the DC1 has to be flashed for the different heat sensor. I ran into this issue when I ran the TC3065 on my Fighter and disconnected my temp sensor wire to get it to work. That said, the older DC1 didn't need the thermo sensor wire connected to get full power, the newer DC1 does (from late 2014-early 2015 and on). If the new motor isn't set up for the DC1 to read temps correctly, the DC1 will default power to 1500watts. And unplugging the DC1 temp sensor wire will also default it to 1500watts. For what its worth.
 
Rix said:
Samd said:
Anyone had to put a mxus v3 into a recent bomber that has the new style display?

I am thinking the temp sensor would need to be switched and the phase wires sorted in order to match the new bomber lcd display?

Possibly easier to fit a better sine wave controller and cav3 and remove the old display but a bit of surgery if so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Adding to what you said Sam, either change the temp sensor or the DC1 has to be flashed for the different heat sensor. I ran into this issue when I ran the TC3065 on my Fighter and disconnected my temp sensor wire to get it to work. That said, the older DC1 didn't need the thermo sensor wire connected to get full power, the newer DC1 does (from late 2014-early 2015 and on). If the new motor isn't set up for the DC1 to read temps correctly, the DC1 will default power to 1500watts. And unplugging the DC1 temp sensor wire will also default it to 1500watts. For what its worth.
Thanks Rix. I assume its a standard 10k thermistor in the latest clytes but am not sure.

Anyone know please?


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So I got my Fighter into it's final configuration the other day. It's been a long hard road to get to this point, but I like how it's finally coming together.
For those who don't recall, I've gone with the following:
-Single crown RockShox Domain RC forks
-Magura MT4 front brake
-Adaptto Mini-E with a ton of heat-sinks and fan cooling
-Leaf Motor '1500W' also with heat-sinks and fan cooling
-18S 20AH Multistar LiPo

I also put some serious mud-gaurds on the front, and today made me glad I did.
-Topeak Defender Front Mudguard XC1
-Cube Downhill Mudguard

I took the bike for a good thrashing today. We've had plenty of rain lately, so it was very VERY muddy, but I had a blast and covered over 20km of super steep, sticky deep mud in under 50min.
Pulling 7.8KW sure is fun on a 30KG bike. :mrgreen:
DSC_3426.jpg
DSC_3428.jpg

DSC_3430.jpg
DSC_3431.jpg

DSC_3432.jpg
DSC_3435.jpg


I think I might still need some better rear mud-guards though. :lol:
DSC_3425.jpg


Unfortunately, when I got home I was stuffing around in the backyard when I stalled the bike at full WOT for way longer than I should have...result: One fried Adaptto Mini-E :cry: :cry: :cry:

Anyway, I'm hoping I can just order a replacement power board from Adaptto for less than the cost of a whole new Mini-E. It works fine at 100A, as long as it's well cooled and the wheel is moving. Maybe I'll drop it a bit the second time round though...7KW is still plenty enough to scare me.

Cheers
 
I was stuffing around in the backyard when I stalled the bike at full WOT for way longer than I should have...result: One fried Adaptto Mini-E

That sucks CD, I think there is a learning lesson for others here, which is to use some mechanical sympathy.
 
Yesterday I had a very beautiful morning trip at the beach on deep and hard packed sand. My present setup with QS 205 30*4T and 10ml of Statorade is super torquey and hold the power at low speed for pretty long time. I found out that Maxxis Maxcross motocross tyre is a must on sand and lose staff; I can't do the same with Vee Rubber VRM 021 trial tyre.
I have the video of the ride but I need to find the time to look at it and then upload.
Here is the stats screen:
20161002_110732_1.jpg


I helped a lot the motor by pedaling as hard as I was able .... what a workout :shock:
 
I reported back a while ago that mu 72v battery failed. I ordered a new one from Allex and it arrived 2 days after he posted it. It is 30q and runs 88.8v hot off the charger. The battery is smaller and lighter than original and should give more AH too.

The bike feels much more lively without anywhere near as much voltage sag. I have the high torque motor so it was always good for wheelies but now If I give it WOT from pull away the bike will lift the wheel and try to flip without any pulling on the bars and without pedalling. There was enough power to keep the wheel in the air with 3rd gear and I was able to lift the wheel at speed in highest gear.

Very pleased, well packaged, good communications and fast service. Thanks Allex!
 
Hey all,
so fun updates…I got a flat today weeeee!! on the back of the bike super weeeee!!! side of the tube had a small tear in it. I think i can comfortably say 8 lbs of pressure MAY be too low :shock:
on another note while I was changing the tube i noticed that after truing the wheel again I noticed that the spoke ends were sticking too far out so may be a good idea to check em after truing..
 
1abv said:
Hey all,
so fun updates…I got a flat today weeeee!! on the back of the bike super weeeee!!! side of the tube had a small tear in it. I think i can comfortably say 8 lbs of pressure MAY be too low :shock:
on another note while I was changing the tube i noticed that after truing the wheel again I noticed that the spoke ends were sticking too far out so may be a good idea to check em after truing..


Surely that means you need to loosen off the spokes and then re-true the wheel again to get the spoke lengths correct?
 
Justtoby said:
I reported back a while ago that mu 72v battery failed. I ordered a new one from Allex and it arrived 2 days after he posted it. It is 30q and runs 88.8v hot off the charger. The battery is smaller and lighter than original and should give more AH too.

The bike feels much more lively without anywhere near as much voltage sag. I have the high torque motor so it was always good for wheelies but now If I give it WOT from pull away the bike will lift the wheel and try to flip without any pulling on the bars and without pedalling. There was enough power to keep the wheel in the air with 3rd gear and I was able to lift the wheel at speed in highest gear.

Very pleased, well packaged, good communications and fast service. Thanks Allex!
Yah Allex builds great packs. You have a 21s battery. It will rip.

On another note, here is a Stealth Greatest Hits video. Very nicely edited and fun to watch.

[youtube]apAnfJmKaYI[/youtube]
 
1abv said:
Hey all,
so fun updates…I got a flat today weeeee!! on the back of the bike super weeeee!!! side of the tube had a small tear in it. I think i can comfortably say 8 lbs of pressure MAY be too low :shock:
on another note while I was changing the tube i noticed that after truing the wheel again I noticed that the spoke ends were sticking too far out so may be a good idea to check em after truing..

Good point, I check and grind as needed after every tire change.
 
Rix said:
Justtoby said:
I reported back a while ago that mu 72v battery failed. I ordered a new one from Allex and it arrived 2 days after he posted it. It is 30q and runs 88.8v hot off the charger. The battery is smaller and lighter than original and should give more AH too.

The bike feels much more lively without anywhere near as much voltage sag. I have the high torque motor so it was always good for wheelies but now If I give it WOT from pull away the bike will lift the wheel and try to flip without any pulling on the bars and without pedalling. There was enough power to keep the wheel in the air with 3rd gear and I was able to lift the wheel at speed in highest gear.

Very pleased, well packaged, good communications and fast service. Thanks Allex!
Yah Allex builds great packs. You have a 21s battery. It will rip.

On another note, here is a Stealth Greatest Hits video. Very nicely edited and fun to watch.

[youtube]apAnfJmKaYI[/youtube]

This vid is what made me what a stealth,realising what freedom thay can bring,
 
Anybody here ever try to use the Federal $7,500 tax credit towards a new Stealth Bomber? Just curious as everyone I know who buys an electric car, new, automatically deducts $7500 off the listed price.

Here is a $2500 credit which seemed to allot for having 2 wheels

https://www.irs.gov/irb/2009-30_IRB/ar07.html

Zero is using it to sell bikes: http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/incentives/


"(c) A statement that the vehicle is made by a manufacturer;

(d) The gross vehicle weight rating of the vehicle;

(e) A statement that the vehicle is propelled to a significant extent by an electric motor which draws electricity from a battery;

(f) The number of wheels that the vehicle has;

(g) The kilowatt hour capacity of the battery;

(h) A statement that the battery is capable of being recharged from an external source of electricity;

(i) A statement that the vehicle is manufactured primarily for use on public streets, roads, and highways, and is not manufactured primarily for off-road use;"

Looks like letter "i" kills it, though 98% of the time Im on some type of road.

Qualified Two-Wheeled Plug-in Electric Drive Motor Vehicle Tax Credit NOTE: This incentive originally expired on December 31, 2013, but was retroactively extended through December 31, 2016, by H.R. 2029 (PDF).
A credit is available for the purchase of a new qualified two-wheeled plug-in electric drive vehicle that draws propulsion using a traction battery that has at least 2.5 kilowatt hours (kWh) of capacity, uses an external source of energy to recharge the battery, has a gross vehicle weight rating of up to 14,000 pounds, is manufactured primarily for use on public roadways, and can drive at least 45 miles per hour. The credit is for 10% of the cost of the qualified vehicle, up to $2,500, and applies to vehicles acquired between January 1, 2015, and December 31, 2016. For more information about claiming the credit, see the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) Plug-In Electric Vehicle Credit website and IRS Form 8936, which is available on the IRS Forms and Publications website. (Reference Public Law 114-113 and 26 U.S. Code 30D)<


Time for Stealth to jam a 2.5KWH (I think its doable) into that sucker.
Perhaps I should start a new topic.
 
st35326 said:
Time for Stealth to jam a 2.5KWH (I think its doable) into that sucker.
Perhaps I should start a new topic.
As you noted, even with a 2.5 kWh battery (long overdue in stealth :) ) this will never qualify as a bike made and used mainly for street use (it is not even legal on streets :) )
The only solution would be if it was homologated as a small electric motorcycle or eventually moped
 
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