E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[PRW]

PRW that looks like the same exact stand.

TV, I think so - it looked exactly the same as the Richochet viewing online, I wasn't sure exactly how it could be and still be so cheap, so I took a chance on buying it - and it appears exactly the same in real life. Very solid stand

 

[PRW]

One fairly easy way to increase your Bomber stopping power-and this will make a very noticeable difference-is to change out the disk brake rotor on the rear wheel from 8" dia to 9" dia (front is OK as is with 8" dia).

To do this you need to find a 9" dia (224 mm dia) rotor. Hayes makes one but they are not readily available. I bought two of these as spares from eBay and I see, as of today, they are still available on eBay from the same vendor I bought from in 2016.

Here's the eBay link. You get two 9" rotors in the purchase which makes this a really good deal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Hayes-9-224mm-disc-brake-rotors-Motoped-/272188440321?hash=item3f5fb1ff01

Install would look like this. The one shown is a 9" dia Hayes but mine came from QMS and has a carbon anti rattle suppressor. You can live without this and the 9" should work fine.

Beside the two pictures shown, there are larger pictures of my 9" Bomber disk brake rotor, which can be found in my collection here:

http://www.fareinc.com/Bomber-sale/index.html

Jim

Thanks for the info, Jim: with the bigger rotors, what sort of caliber adaptors do you need (if any)?

 

[Stealth_Rider]

Thanks for the info, Jim: with the bigger rotors, what sort of caliber adaptors do you need (if any)?

Here is a link to McMaster Carr my source for hardware. You can get stainless steel machine screws and spacers there.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-spacers/=15z9kyw

For finer height adjustment (added atop the spacer) you look to use stainless steel round shims (vs round spacers). ID=6mm x OD=12mm x Thickness (try 0.5 mm and 1.0 mm to have on hand). I use 316 stainless steel round shims and I have the 4 avaialble sizes McMaster sells.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=15z9y1u

The idea with the spacer + shim + sliding the entire caliper backwards and forwards in the swingarm bracket, is to get the rotor to spin in the caliper opening as close to the top as possible in the center of the caliper opening without hitting caliper metal. This will maximize the pad surface in contact with the rotor. Once the caliper is in the correct position tightening the M6 screws will keep it there.

For future adjustments (i.e. pad changes) I remove the pads, push the pistons back into the caliper using McMaster tapered wooden shims(one on each side of the rotor and push down), loosen the caliper screws and then use my eyes to center the rotor in the caliper opening. Tighten the caliper screws and then insert pads. This procedure gets the rotor centered in the caliper so the pistons each move out equally during use.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#wood-shims/=15za6mx

Jim

 

[PRW]

Jim, absolutely brilliant and clear explanation with photos, thank you!

 

[one4torque]

My big-AZZZZ rotors just arrived! Did I say they are BIG!
I've got the Biggest rotors of them all.......

Going to test this w/e..... 1 on the SB, and 1 on the FUTR alpha.

 

[chucho]

Thanks for the info, Jim: with the bigger rotors, what sort of caliber adaptors do you need (if any)?

Here is a link to McMaster Carr my source for hardware. You can get stainless steel machine screws and spacers there.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-spacers/=15z9kyw

For finer height adjustment (added atop the spacer) you look to use stainless steel round shims (vs round spacers). ID=6mm x OD=12mm x Thickness (try 0.5 mm and 1.0 mm to have on hand). I use 316 stainless steel round shims and I have the 4 avaialble sizes McMaster sells.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=15z9y1u

The idea with the spacer + shim + sliding the entire caliper backwards and forwards in the swingarm bracket, is to get the rotor to spin in the caliper opening as close to the top as possible in the center of the caliper opening without hitting caliper metal. This will maximize the pad surface in contact with the rotor. Once the caliper is in the correct position tightening the M6 screws will keep it there.

For future adjustments (i.e. pad changes) I remove the pads, push the pistons back into the caliper using McMaster tapered wooden shims(one on each side of the rotor and push down), loosen the caliper screws and then use my eyes to center the rotor in the caliper opening. Tighten the caliper screws and then insert pads. This procedure gets the rotor centered in the caliper so the pistons each move out equally during use.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#wood-shims/=15za6mx

Jim

Whats the carbon disc for?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hi guy's,

Ok so final update on the clamping torque blocks. The add-on 'hold' piece arrived and I've done some extensive testing on it today.
I am happy to report, it works perfectly No movement at all under repeated acceleration/regen forces. I took it on an extended, very rough, test ride and my line marks on the nut and torque block were still perfectly aligned afterwards.

Here's the comparison video of the same side that was moving last time:
[youtube]UmvFA1vi-v4[/youtube]
Filmed on my new Camcorder.
As you can see, the block is now locked in place and does not move at all under load like it did before.

The disk side is unchanged without the need for the torque block hold piece.
[youtube]zhqlKIt4z-I[/youtube]

I've already placed my bulk order with the factory and will have 20 of these 3 piece units in my hands in the next 2-3 weeks depending on interference from the Chinese new year.

So I can stop spamming this thread now, I have created a sales thread over here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=86054#p1258704
While I'm happy to answer questions here, I don't want to bend the rules about product promoting in a non-sales thread too much, so I suggest jumping over to the sales thread for more details and discussion.

Cheers

 

[Emmett]

I was working on my MT2 brakes today and discovered something critical that I was not doing which made the bleed process impossible. Magura don't mention this...

When pumping oil into the caliper to push air out of the line and master (lever end), you must release any lever preload adjustment you have wound in on the lever to adjust the grab point. So turn the torx head bolt on the lever to the full out position. This allows the internal piston to expose the port to/from the brake line, so the res can be back-filled. Seems obvious now, but I only just worked it out. Thought someone else might benefit.

There is another bit of info missing from Magura's documented (and videoed) bleed process which I believe is very important ... There is practically no reservoir in the MT2 master. It's not like a normal brake master which will pump as much oil as is required to prime the line and caliper as the pads push in to meet the rotor. So ... the amount of oil in the system determines where the master piston sits in the stroke, which limits the lever position adjustment range. What I do now, is with the pads installed, I pump oil in the bottom (caliper) until the master piston ends up where I want it, leaving some scope for adjustment up top. Then install the screw plug in the caliper and you're done. Oviously be careful to keep oil away from the pads which is pretty easy if you have a good oil pump tube and fitting. If you push the caliper pistons back all the way as Magura suggests, then soon after the pads wear down you will run out of adjustment on the lever. I like one finger on the lever and cannot ride of the lever comes in too close to the bar/grip, so this trick works great for me.

And another bit of advice: Remove the through-bolts in your calipers (one bolt at a time), and clean the threads and reinstall with loctite. One bolt in my rear capiler was a tiny bit loose. So I slowly lost oil and braking power. Even if you caliper halves are not leaking, keeping these bolts tight improves braking power and feel.

Last week I had a Hayes Stroker master on the rear. The Hayes master is a much better design with a large res like a normal brake master. But the hydraulic oil for the MT2 caliper killed the seals in the Hayes part which needs DOT4 fluid. Stupid of me to not predict that. Anyway I put the MT2 master back on, bleed and adjusted it properly and now it works great!

I guess that Magura's special needs/tricks for bleeding are why so many people go away from them. But get the bleed and oil volume right and even the cheap MT2s can be great value for the price.

My MT2s can lock the front and/or rear wheels up when braking on smooth flat dry road once the speed comes down below about 35 km/h. Quite fast for a lock up on grippy road. That's with a pair of $10 sintered pads from Taiwan, a Razorback front tire and a very grippy SR142 trials tire on the rear. Pretty good braking power for off-road. I'll report back after more testing.

 

[Emmett]

Problem: On my Fighter, I got tired of trail sticks and rocks damaging my hub wires and plugs where they go under the frame BB. Also my wire cover along the bottom swingarm was getting cut up from various impacts. The wire plugs under the frame are also totally exposed to water, mud and grit. Lastly those plugs often get pulled when the rear suspension bottoms out so they can unplug and the wires will be rubbing too much on something.

Solution: Run your hub wires over the BB, beside the pivot bolt, then along the top of the swingarm, with the rear brake line.

This solution works great! The wires don't need to change length as the rear suspension moves, and the wires and plugs are nicely protected from nasty debris on the trails. The wires are exposed just behind the controller, but that's the only place. It's way way better when you are hammering over rough trail crap and many kms away from your base. When I put new wires on my motors, I just couldn't be happy with routing them under the frame and letting them get damaged so soon. If anyone if interested I can post a photo.

 

[Allex]

Had two bikes last summer, one with M2, another with Hope X2 ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/hope-tech-3-x2-disc-brake/rp-prod112988 )
All I can say is that when swapping to the bike with M2s it felt like I did not have any brakes at all Huge diff.
And the bleeding with DOT is much easier on Hopes, much like on regular pitbikes/MCs

 

[Emmett]

Had two bikes last summer, one with M2, another with Hope X2 ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/hope-tech-3-x2-disc-brake/rp-prod112988 )
All I can say is that when swapping to the bike with M2s it felt like I did not have any brakes at all Huge diff.
And the bleeding with DOT is much easier on Hopes, much like on regular pitbikes/MCs

I found the power of the MT2s can vary greatly according to the fluid setup and the condition of the pads and rotors.

Also braking setup (ratio of lever force to braking force) can be a personal preference thing.

My rear MT2 can lock up the wheel, on demand, no problem. On the front obviously I need to apply more lever force to lock and push the front tire, but it's not such a bad thing in a lot of situations and conditions. Also I think my fork suspension works nice and that helps braking a lot. When I use both brakes, which I mostly do, the bike stops pretty quick. I'm killing my front tire a lot quicker than I wish.

 

[Rix]

Had two bikes last summer, one with M2, another with Hope X2 ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/hope-tech-3-x2-disc-brake/rp-prod112988 )
All I can say is that when swapping to the bike with M2s it felt like I did not have any brakes at all Huge diff.
And the bleeding with DOT is much easier on Hopes, much like on regular pitbikes/MCs

I found the power of the MT2s can vary greatly according to the fluid setup and the condition of the pads and rotors.

Also braking setup (ratio of lever force to braking force) can be a personal preference thing.

My rear MT2 can lock up the wheel, on demand, no problem. On the front obviously I need to apply more lever force to lock and push the front tire, but it's not such a bad thing in a lot of situations and conditions. Also I think my fork suspension works nice and that helps braking a lot. When I use both brakes, which I mostly do, the bike stops pretty quick. I'm killing my front tire a lot quicker than I wish.

I wrote about the reservoir/cylinder plunger bolt back around page 500. I couldn't get my MT2 to bleed for shit and tried for weeks, then I saw the little plunger bolt move and screwed that thing all the way in and bled the brakes instantly. Yah, just like you said, Magura doesn't say anything about that.

 

[Rix]

Hi guy's,

Ok so final update on the clamping torque blocks. The add-on 'hold' piece arrived and I've done some extensive testing on it today.
I am happy to report, it works perfectly No movement at all under repeated acceleration/regen forces. I took it on an extended, very rough, test ride and my line marks on the nut and torque block were still perfectly aligned afterwards.

Here's the comparison video of the same side that was moving last time:
[youtube]UmvFA1vi-v4[/youtube]
Filmed on my new Camcorder.
As you can see, the block is now locked in place and does not move at all under load like it did before.


I've already placed my bulk order with the factory and will have 20 of these 3 piece units in my hands in the next 2-3 weeks depending on interference from the Chinese new year.

This was what I was talking about when I posted the suggestion about the top bar and set screws, you just didn't use set screws. Design looks solid CD.
So I can stop spamming this thread now, I have created a sales thread over here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=86054#p1258704
While I'm happy to answer questions here, I don't want to bend the rules about product promoting in a non-sales thread too much, so I suggest jumping over to the sales thread for more details and discussion.

Cheers

This was what I was talking about when I posted the suggestion about the top bar and set screws, you just didn't use set screws. Design looks solid CD.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

This was what I was talking about when I posted the suggestion about the top bar and set screws, you just didn't use set screws. Design looks solid CD.

Thanks!

Now I'm just waiting on them to be made. The factory is gonna take some time due to the Chinese new year. :|

Cheers

 

[Stealth_Rider]

Whats the carbon disc for?

I purchased my original 9" Hayes from QMS (no longer in existence).

"Install would look like this. The one shown is a 9" dia Hayes but mine came from QMS and has a carbon anti rattle suppressor. You can live without this and the 9" should work fine."

Jim

 

[Hyena]

I guess that Magura's special needs/tricks for bleeding are why so many people go away from them. But get the bleed and oil volume right and even the cheap MT2s can be great value for the price.

Good advice Emmett, you should repost that as it's own thread in the general ebike section for others that use magura brakes.
I use them almost exclusively on my bikes (previously MT5s front MT2s rear but MT5s all round now that the MT2s have been discontinued) and always struggle to get good lever feel due, most likely, to the reasons you documented. They always end up worse after shortening the lines which really cheeses me off!

 

[Emmett]

Problem: Frequent off-road riding and the throttle response seems a bit erratic and unpredictable. Particularly noticeable at initial/low throttle positions. Reason being that the hall sensor is moving around due to vibration forces.

Solution: Take the throttle off the handlebar and check if your hall sensor has any free-play where it is seated. If you find the tiniest bit of movement, then get some epoxy filler glue (eg. JB-Weld original) and build up a supporting bed around the neck of the sensor.

Now your motor will respond to your throttle hand precisely the same way, every time. Assuming consistent battery output.

This fix is also good preventative maintenance. It could avoid a breakdown or crash on the trail if the sensor pops out of position.

I learned the hard way about 2 months ago and did a long pedal+push home. Bought a new throttle but before fitting it I decided to check inside the old throttle. Found and fixed the problem and been using the old throttle for about 10 rides since then, and it works great. Perhaps better than new.

 

[1abv]

In addition to that take a few zippy ties and tie down the cable from the throttle to the handle bar on a few spots. I also put a loop on my triple clamp right near the center tube. (My triple clamp has a predrilled hole in it right there. That way the cable won't catch on anything….. not like It did before… nope never happened to me….. don't know what your talking about…..

 

[chucho]

Had two bikes last summer, one with M2, another with Hope X2 ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/hope-tech-3-x2-disc-brake/rp-prod112988 )
All I can say is that when swapping to the bike with M2s it felt like I did not have any brakes at all Huge diff.
And the bleeding with DOT is much easier on Hopes, much like on regular pitbikes/MCs

I found the power of the MT2s can vary greatly according to the fluid setup and the condition of the pads and rotors.

Also braking setup (ratio of lever force to braking force) can be a personal preference thing.

My rear MT2 can lock up the wheel, on demand, no problem. On the front obviously I need to apply more lever force to lock and push the front tire, but it's not such a bad thing in a lot of situations and conditions. Also I think my fork suspension works nice and that helps braking a lot. When I use both brakes, which I mostly do, the bike stops pretty quick. I'm killing my front tire a lot quicker than I wish.

I wrote about the reservoir/cylinder plunger bolt back around page 500. I couldn't get my MT2 to bleed for shit and tried for weeks, then I saw the little plunger bolt move and screwed that thing all the way in and bled the brakes instantly. Yah, just like you said, Magura doesn't say anything about that.

Do Mt5 have that little pluguer bold? I get crazy trying to bleed after shorting cables everytime

 

[Jimboyr6]

Has anyone fitted a fork on a bomber with a tapered steerer by changing the head bearings cups etc

 

[Rix]

Has anyone fitted a fork on a bomber with a tapered steerer by changing the head bearings cups etc

No, however, someone a while back posted a link to oversized head set that would adapt the larger 1.5 taper tube to the 1.125 head tube. Don't remember who made the custom head set though.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I doubt they are on here, but I came across this guy on a B52 this morning while I was driving my Prius to go pick up my Recumbent which just had a Schlumpf fitted.
[youtube]fioH0u80hLU[/youtube]

As I turned onto Erindale drive, an 80kph road up a fairly large hill, he was still tailing me, so I floored it to see if he would stay with me...to my surprise, my 2004 Prius with 283000km on the clock was able to pull away from him...maybe he backed off, but it seemed like he was going for it.

Chime in if it was you.

Cheers

 

[Rix]

https://www.facebook.com/StealthElectricBikes/photos/a.489414401089752.119787.154742641223598/1423673894330460/?type=3&theater

For those of us that follow Stealth on FB, they have been dropping hints of a new model coming out soon. There is a guessing game about the name of the next model. Being that Stealth has a history of name their machines after aircraft such as the Bomber and Fighter, I figured the next model will also be an aircraft. I was thinking the Hornet, but I was told that wasn't it. Anybody got any ideas what the next model is called? Judging from the shadow picture, it looks very similar to a Beta size type frame, but I just don't know.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Mustang.

 

[The fingers]

Spitfire.