E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[1abv]

OK e bike gurus out there...
Im looking for a new controller for my bike..

Stock motor, battery....Samsung 50e 2170 cells. 20s 7p 35amp

Ive been looking at Sabvoton SVMC72150 or maybe the ASI 4000, been reading about Nucular as well... this would be my 1st stand alone controller so im looking for something that's somewhat user friendly.. My bike is currently at 4.5kw (I know old school stealth..) and im looking to try and get it up to at least around 8.. I think that's about at my battery limit.

Thanks everyone!

 

[biknut]

OK e bike gurus out there...
Im looking for a new controller for my bike..

Stock motor, battery....Samsung 50e 2170 cells. 20s 7p 35amp

Ive been looking at Sabvoton SVMC72150 or maybe the ASI 4000, been reading about Nucular as well... this would be my 1st stand alone controller so im looking for something that's somewhat user friendly.. My bike is currently at 4.5kw (I know old school stealth..) and im looking to try and get it up to at least around 8.. I think that's about at my battery limit.

Thanks everyone!

What about this one.

https://www.kellycontroller.com/shop/kls-h/

 

[biknut]

I think Onyx, Huck, and Monday use Kelly controllers.

 

[1abv]

Thanks for the tip..
I've been doing research on endless sphere and Ive heard bad things or other issues about most of the controllers

sabvoton vs kelly, granted it was not the controller you were talking about but the kelly controller didn't seem as advanced as the and as simple to use as the sabvotons..
sabvotons have threads indicating that they have a new owner and they are very hit or miss a lot of DOA
Nucular seem to be back ordered for months...
ASI seem to be back ordered for months as well

Seems like one way or another they all have major issues or are backordered for a while...

 

[biknut]

I know a guy with a Onyx. He said he can program his controller (I assume Kelly) with his phone. He says it's easy. I think Onyx controllers are 80 amp continuous, but a QS 205 motor is rated for 3000w, 6000w peak whatever that means. He claims he set his controller for 12,000w.

I wish my controller was 80 amp continuous.

As it is, with my stock 65 amp controller I see about 4720w continuous until the revs get pretty high, which seems about right. 65 x 72 = 4680w. Most of the time my voltage will be a little above 72v.

Hot off the charger I might see peaks close to 5200w,but they're so momentary I don't consider that much of anything.

 

[PRW]

OK e bike gurus out there...
Im looking for a new controller for my bike..

Stock motor, battery....Samsung 50e 2170 cells. 20s 7p 35amp

Ive been looking at Sabvoton SVMC72150 or maybe the ASI 4000, been reading about Nucular as well... this would be my 1st stand alone controller so im looking for something that's somewhat user friendly.. My bike is currently at 4.5kw (I know old school stealth..) and im looking to try and get it up to at least around 8.. I think that's about at my battery limit.

Thanks everyone!

I was asking a similar query, in this thread. I ended up ordering a Nucular 24F, but also intend putting some solder on the shunts on the existing controller (a bit closer to the time of receiving the Nucular), as an experiment
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=110678

 

[Tats]

Waiting on my p7r and wondering what rack if any people are using....

I have a topeak beam rack on my big hit seat post and a Thule pack pedal Tour rack on the demo 8 chain stays. I much prefer the Thule, it’s super solid, but will it fit the p7 swingarm?

Does any one have any measurements of the swingarm circumference (min-max) to check if the Thule will fit?

 

[1abv]

Just read through your thread.. Interesting stuff. I too have much to learn for example....Phase amps... uhhhggghh...

TV i" ll have to take a look into the Kelly and see what's up with it.. It would be great if there was a vendor who dealt with multiple brands of high power controllers and could provide some guidance...

On another note I took the bike out to one of my usual dirtbike riding spots.. It actually performed much better than I anticipated...
Except for the rear shock... Good god that thing is a piece... even after rebuilding revalving etc.. I'm now working on another solution.. more to come....

 

[biknut]

Just read through your thread.. Interesting stuff. I too have much to learn for example....Phase amps... uhhhggghh...

TV i" ll have to take a look into the Kelly and see what's up with it.. It would be great if there was a vendor who dealt with multiple brands of high power controllers and could provide some guidance...

On another note I took the bike out to one of my usual dirtbike riding spots.. It actually performed much better than I anticipated...
Except for the rear shock... Good god that thing is a piece... even after rebuilding revalving etc.. I'm now working on another solution.. more to come....

I think what you should do is buy a Kelly controller, and make a video of how to install it, and send me the video.

 

[1abv]

Your selflessness is palpable....I know your riding street but how do you like your shock height/ performance?

 

[biknut]

Your selflessness is palpable....I know your riding street but how do you like your shock height/ performance?

For my kind of riding a shorter shock is better, it still has more travel than I need, and I've never bottomed it out. FASTACE BF-A01AR 11" with 1000 lb spring. It works great for my body size, at 230 lb, and it was a slight upgrade over the stock shock. It has a firm feel like the stock shock, but with a little better damping, especially noticeable at higher speeds.

I should mention that the fox 40s on the front work so good, I don't even care about the back so much. The combination of those forks, with 65mm rims, and hook worm tires make the front tire feel like it's magnetically attracted to the road.

And since I'm on a roll, my wide seat with lower ride height adds another dimension to the overall handling. Using the narrower front part of the seat is perfect for gripping the bike solidly between my legs going fast through turns. Sitting closer to the back of the seat is a hoot too. It feels like riding in the back seat of a speed boat.

 

[1abv]

Soooo my bike started to act odd recently..
upon heavy load it studders and has a lack of power. I tested the halls and phases all good. My temp sensor wire at the plug needed a little love so fixed that. Noticed that the regen button wires also broke at the solder... oh goodie..
Checked the controllers Mosfets.. all good. Ugh plugged everything back together.. no bueno.. decided to pull the motor apart but everything looked good... Hell even the Statoraide was still in there from when I put it in over 3 years ago...
So decided to pull the controller... Sounded like a damn rain stick..
one blown Cap. 2 caps loose, 3 more caps have at least one leg burnt... I think this has been going on for a while. I ran a temp strip on the exterior of the controller for a while now but didn't notice any overheating.... and now for some pics!!!

So about that new controller.... may need to get one a little sooner than expected...

 

[biknut]

Looks like time for a new controller to me. I want, I mean you, should get something that puts out 80 amps. I just happened to remember Kelly has an 80 amp controller. It'll be a lot easier for me to install, after you tell me how you did it.

 

[litespeed]

Actually you want a Nucular 24F if you wanna break the sound barrier or a 12F if you just want to make the bike into what it should have been at its birth.

Tom

 

[biknut]

Actually you want a Nucular 24F if you wanna break the sound barrier or a 12F if you just want to make the bike into what it should have been at its birth.

Tom

I say bull crap. 80 amps is 80 amps. How you going to beat that? Don't say 90 amps lol.

 

[litespeed]

Actually 12F is 150 battery and 250 phase amps.
24F is 300 battery and 500 phase amps.......

You know you want one! You can blow the “Hardly’s” away! (Hardly worth having! )

Tom

 

[biknut]

Actually 12F is 150 battery and 250 phase amps.
24F is 300 battery and 500 phase amps.......

You know you want one! You can blow the “Hardly’s” away! (Hardly worth having! )

Tom

I have to admit, I don't really understand this phase amp business very well. I know there's 3 power wires running the motor, and they're called phase wires. On the 3 phase a/c motors I work on, if each wire has 20 amps on it, that's 60 amps. I know our motors are d/c, but I'm thinking that doesn't really change this value. I'm thinking if I had a controller that was capable of 80 amps, that sounds like each wire would have 26.66 amps on it. 26.66 x 3 = 80. I'm not that keen about d/c, but 26 amps on the one of the phase wires of my stock motor seems like that would be a heavy load for that size wire. I'm thinking more than it could handle continuously for long. Assuming that's the case, what good is having a more powerful controller going to do?

 

[john61ct]

QS 205 motor is rated for 3000w, 6000w peak whatever that means.

Very little

https://ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html

I'm not that keen about d/c, but 26 amps on the one of the phase wires of my stock motor seems like that would be a heavy load for that size wire. I'm thinking more than it could handle continuously for long. Assuming that's the case, what good is having a more powerful controller going to do?

Depends on the use case.

With many "fun" ones, peak amps are so critical, that continuous becomes much less relevant.

Bottleneck always exists, just a question of where, wiring too light thus getting too hot is not a great one.

Ideally it's the adjustment on the controller, let its full power be too great, no problem,

so long as you can tune it down to the point where the "weakest link" in the system is defanged.

 

[HK12K]

Actually 12F is 150 battery and 250 phase amps.
24F is 300 battery and 500 phase amps.......

You know you want one! You can blow the “Hardly’s” away! (Hardly worth having! )

Tom

I have to admit, I don't really understand this phase amp business very well. I know there's 3 power wires running the motor, and they're called phase wires. On the 3 phase a/c motors I work on, if each wire has 20 amps on it, that's 60 amps. I know our motors are d/c, but I'm thinking that doesn't really change this value. I'm thinking if I had a controller that was capable of 80 amps, that sounds like each wire would have 26.66 amps on it. 26.66 x 3 = 80. I'm not that keen about d/c, but 26 amps on the one of the phase wires of my stock motor seems like that would be a heavy load for that size wire. I'm thinking more than it could handle continuously for long. Assuming that's the case, what good is having a more powerful controller going to do?

Afaik our motors are 3 phase AC. The controller has a DC input and outputs AC.

 

[biknut]

QS 205 motor is rated for 3000w, 6000w peak whatever that means.

Very little

https://ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html

I'm not that keen about d/c, but 26 amps on the one of the phase wires of my stock motor seems like that would be a heavy load for that size wire. I'm thinking more than it could handle continuously for long. Assuming that's the case, what good is having a more powerful controller going to do?

Depends on the use case.

With many "fun" ones, peak amps are so critical, that continuous becomes much less relevant.

Bottleneck always exists, just a question of where, wiring too light thus getting too hot is not a great one.

Ideally it's the adjustment on the controller, let its full power be too great, no problem,

so long as you can tune it down to the point where the "weakest link" in the system is defanged.

Thanks John, that's a good article about electric power rating. All my previous experience involved increasing (souping up) gas powered engines which have some of the same issues, referred to as bottle necks, when it comes to increased power.

What stands out to me as the main difference between gas and electric power is, with electric motors you can over power the motor for short periods of time without causing significant damage. That helps explain why in the case of a Kelly controller they express the current two different ways. As example the SKU KLS-H is rated as 80 amp continuous, and 200 amp max for up to 30 seconds.

I'm thinking 200 amps for 30 seconds = toast my windings, but hopefully that can be adjusted.

 

[1abv]

So after the years of beating on my motor, there always is a weakest link..

The bike didn't come with a temp sensor.. I noticed on high long hills with continuous riding the power cut out...
Cure: added a temp sensor and set limits on the CAV.
Looked at the phase wires.. They were very stiff and the coating was breaking..
Cure: replace wires with 10 gauge silicone wires and re did the entire wiring harness.
Motor hitting max temp too quickly..
Cure added stator aide and hubsinks..

Now the controller is the weakest link.
I'm wondering if it makes more sense to get a higher output controller that what I need to have some buffer for heat protection?
for example the 24F nuke or some such controller??

 

[biknut]

My bike at Strokers parked next to the prehistoric gas burning dinosaur.

 

[biknut]

1abv check this out

I noticed that he changed the max amps from 55 to 150. I'd like to know how many amps the bike can really pull, but he doesn't give any of that information.

[youtube]FMrot8tIUqE[/youtube]

 

[biknut]

Assuming it does 150 amps, that's about 10,800w

My 35 ah battery can only handle 100 amp. My Sanyo cells are 10 amp, so 10p = 100

 

[biknut]

I weighed my bike, and got 121.4 lbs. That's pretty good considering I added fenders, lights, wider double wall rims, a 35 ah battery, and about a gallon of slime in each tire.