E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Rix]

The tire's bead may not be seated perfectly even on the rim bead, but more so, I sounds like your disk rotor may be rubbing on the caliper. Check around your tire, make sure the bead is seated evenly, may have to over inflate and add a little dish soap and water if its not seated evenly. There is no magic spot on the swing arm for the wheel, use your axle torque blocks to adjust axle placement and alignment.

 

[00Tj]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. I will try all those things and keep my fingers crossed!

 

[DunkenKBliths]

Any one know of a replacement part and place to get it ?

I'm selling a set on here..

PM me more details...

 

[QMS]

I've tried a million little adjustments back and forth but it's still off centre no matter what I do.. It was perfect before i took the wheel off, now it sucks. I don't know what the hell to do! It's 10:30pm and I have to ride this to work in the morning.

Hi 00Tj, The notes that Rix and Allex have made are correct. There are a number of issues to progressively sort rear the successful re fitting of the rear wheel assembly. Firstly, make sure that the disc rotor is true, torqued and no warps exist. If there is damage to the disc rotor this will constantly drag on the caliper assembly and be ineffective. Secondly, the bead of the rear tyre MUST be correctly seated on the rim, this is best done by rolling the tyre left and right on both sides with around 10psi in the tyre progressively until the whole bead is seated on both sides and then progressively add air pressure to the recommended psi. If this is not observed the rear wheel will end up wobbling violently at medium to high speeds. Once this has been achieved successfully the rear wheel can be refitted (best done with the disc caliper removed) to avoid damaging the disc caliper and/or pads when refitting the wheel on either the caliper or brake adapter. Align the wheel laterally in the swingarm, sliding rearwards until the chain tension is observed. Lightly tighten each axle nut and tension the nuts on both torque plates and check again for alignment and chain tension. Tighten both axle nuts to around 1/2 of their operating torque and check again for alignment and chain tension as these can vary as the swingarm is tightened against the motor's axle. Once this has been achieved and the chain tension is good and the wheel is running true in regards to the rest of the bike frame, torque up both axle bolts and torque plates along with the axle clamp to operational specs and connect the motor wiring. The rear brakes can now be fitted and aligned, this too can be a little tricky. Make sure that the calipers are exactly vertical in relation to the disc rotor and ensure that the pads are not damaged or glazed at this point and test thoroughly for dragging by actuating the brake lever a number of times. Obviously at this point also ensure there are no buckles in the rear rim and remove/adjust as necessary.
Once this has been done a couple of times it becomes a little easier however, a damaged axle, swingarm, or torque plates can make this a whole lot trickier. Slowly and carefully is the secret and just remember that due to the forces involved and the speed that can be achieved, it is crucial that you get this right from a safety perspective as the mechanical damage and personal injuries that can result from not observing all the points outlined can be hideous and expensive. Hope this helps.

 

[ManxE]

Is the wheel true?

 

[biknut]

Ok, so after hours of minute adjustments I have got to here.. But it is still out of wack.

[youtube]sQj7kXLngvI[/youtube]

It looks like it's just you tire is not seated on the rim all the way.

 

[Allex]

Today I split my 74V pack in two and I was curious if I could ride with it. So I plugged it in, one 37V35Ah brick.
The battery was almost empty, 35V (42V fully charged)
The bike felt really light, only 6Kg worth of batteries but alsmost same energy amount as the stock battery.
I still had old controller settings, like 130DC Amps and 400phase amps. I recorded 4,4kW of power and top speed of 62km/h. This is on almost empty battery, not to shabby!
So Fighter users could easily run 37V battery and have same speed as they have from the factory =) It just the matter of what controller you use.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hey, thanks for posting that Allex. Perfect timing as I'm just about to pull the trigger on an Adaptto Mini-E and was wondering if my 12S LiPo 44.4V Nominal would really give enough top end.
By the sounds of it I might be able to hit ~80+ Kph on 12S using my HS4080
How many other controllers could do that!

Cheers

 

[Allex]

That is one amazing piece of a hardware, easily best controller on the market.
This is how 1500Wh looks like, empty!
Dear Stealth, we need a new frame from you, I am tired of theese bulky "Hummer" frames

 

[Jimboyr6]

That is one amazing piece of a hardware, easily best controller on the market.
This is how 1500Wh looks like, empty!
Dear Stealth, we need a new frame from you, I am tired of theese bulky "Hummer" frames

Ur bikes the muts nuts

 

[Rix]

Today I split my 74V pack in two and I was curious if I could ride with it. So I plugged it in, one 37V35Ah brick.
The battery was almost empty, 35V (42V fully charged)
The bike felt really light, only 6Kg worth of batteries but alsmost same energy amount as the stock battery.
I still had old controller settings, like 130DC Amps and 400phase amps. I recorded 4,4kW of power and top speed of 62km/h. This is on almost empty battery, not to shabby!
So Fighter users could easily run 37V battery and have same speed as they have from the factory =) It just the matter of what controller you use.

What was your acceleration like? Guessing you went from 0-30MPH (0-50km/h) almost as quick as before, then it starts slowing down up to 65km/h. Was your OVS setting set @#7 to get this speed?

 

[NeilP]

so what controller is that to get that speed with such low voltage?

 

[Allex]

Neil you have been hanging to much in CA3 thread last 3 years =)

When you get Adaptto controller, you can forget about CA, BMS and crazy bulk charging solutions you will get all of these features with this hardware. Well, comparing this controller with all others is like comparing an old GSM phone from 1995 with todays smart phone.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=67182#p1011360

 

[NeilP]

Ah those..yes, very nice if you have the money..out of my budget

 

[biknut]

When you get Adaptto controller, you can forget about CA, BMS and crazy bulk charging solutions you will get all of these features with this hardware. Well, comparing this controller with all others is like comparing an old GSM phone from 1995 with todays smart phone.

I love that high tech talk Allex. Sooner or later I'm coming for it.

 

[Rix]

When you get Adaptto controller, you can forget about CA, BMS and crazy bulk charging solutions you will get all of these features with this hardware. Well, comparing this controller with all others is like comparing an old GSM phone from 1995 with todays smart phone.

I love that high tech talk Allex. Sooner or later I'm coming for it.

I got a 24 Fet Infineon 100/300 DC Phase programed controller sitting in my garage for a future build. That controller is son inferior to the Adapto, I just may go into credit card debt and get me a MAX E with Allex's program modifications.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Ah those..yes, very nice if you have the money..out of my budget

The only reason I'm getting the Adaptto Mini-E is because it costs only a little bit more than the equivalent alternative.
I was just about to put through an order on EM3EV for a new 18Fet Infineon, CA V2.3, and Charger (needed if I want decent performance from a higher voltage battery), and the total cost in AUD was approx $600 including shipping, Paypal fees and the double conversion from USD to HKD to AUD that EM3EV does now.

To get the same (Controller + Screen + No need for another charger due to no need for higher voltage battery) in the Adaptto Mini-E is approx $650 including shipping, conversion from Ruble to AUD and transfer fees. For an extra $50 I get state of the art, vs bog standard like everyone else. Worth it IMO

Cheers

 

[NeilP]

For me it was going to cost way more, going on a price list they sent. If you were only doing 3-5kW, then a 9 or 12 FET would have done.

I'd have gone for the Max Adapto to be an equivalent to my 18 fet at 84-98 volts 140 amp setup, so seem to remember that would be pushing the $900 USD mark, where as a Xie Chang 18 FET from e-crazyman, was $148 USD.. So even adding a CA, and Besttech BMS, still much cheaper and if does all I need.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

For me it was hoong to cost way more, going on a price list they sent. If you were only doing 3-5kW, then a 9 or 12 FET would have done.

I'd have gone for the Max Adapto to be an equivalent to my 18 fet at 84-98 volts 140 amp setup, so seem to remember that would be pushing the $900 USD mark, where as a Xie Chang 18 FET from e-crazyman, was $148 USD.. So even adding a CA, and Besttech BMS, still much cheaper and if does all I need.

Your comparing Apples and Oranges.
Yes an 18FET can take 140amps, but with an Adaptto you don't need 140Amps to get the same performance.
Others can confirm, but I believe the torque per volt/amp from sinewave controllers (and in particular the Adaptto) is higher than standard square wave controllers. So in reality all your square wave controller achieves is a faster drain of your battery.
I think the Mini-E is probably very close to the same performance of an 18FET square wave anyway. It can manage 180A phase peaks if needed, and you can always void warranty and increase battery current further if you really want to.

Cheers

 

[NeilP]

Umm so how does the adapto do this?

If what you are saying is correct and I am not going to dispute it as I don't have an Adapto to compare to, I must be loosing something like 60 % or maybe more of my power as Heat? and noise?

My current settings are around 110 120 max battery I see peaks of about 130, on the CA . Phase is set to 300...2.5 times the battery current.

The e-mail i got from adapt about the min -e said 3kw with peaks of 5kw.

If I can get the same performance with the Adaptto Mini with a 5304 as I can with 10-12 kW with the 18 FET, I'd certainly be interested if I have another build to do. Or even if my current build develops issues. Currently my everyday pack is 20s 20 Ah and weighs 23lb. Flat out riding I do about 20 miles and that is down to about 14 Ah used. (Edit : More details in a question in the Adaptto thread

If I could halve that battery size, and keep that range and power levels, the battery saving would offset the extra price of even the Mini-E


Something else that just crossed my mind...do they have input for Thun / TDCM torque cranks?. just getting in to that now and having that variable power from pedalling via the TDCm and CA is great.

 

[stritzky]

Hi

Does anybody have an idea how to get the cables out of the gray hosing of the ANDERSON SB CONNECTOR going to the controller on a Bomber ? I need to take the controller of the frame. But I need to reinstall it so cutting the wire isn't a good idea.

 

[stritzky]

Hi

Does anybody have an idea how to get the cables out of the gray hosing of the ANDERSON SB CONNECTOR going to the controller on a Bomber ? I need to take the controller of the frame. But I need to reinstall it so cutting the wire isn't a good idea.

Never mind I liqueured it out. You just push down the small metal plate underneath the connector and pull on the cable.

 

[Allex]

Guys, lets not forget that mini-e only have 6FETS. No way you can have the same performance with that as with a 18FET Xie based controllers. The mini can drive a bike up to 75km/h period, thats about 3500-4000Watts of power to get it there. You can push it further but you will overheat it very fast and thermal management inside will kick in to save the controller.

Rix, the bike does accelerate hard up to 40km/h then it goes slower up to speed. I think that this is because you reach the kV/V of the motor. If I would have 48V then probably a hard acceleration to 45-50.
Today I did a run with fresh battery 42V hot of the charger and the speed was 70Km/h oops
It does 50km/h easy (OVS 0) and with the help of OVS(overspeed setting 5-7) setting you can get it up to 70
View attachment 1

Upped the battery current to 160DC Amps and got 6,2KW of power. I think I will keep it this way for a while. I am not a speed junky, I am acceleration addict

Stritzky, pretty easy, just press down the metal holders with a small screw driver and remove the leads from the housing. (oh you fixed that already)

 

[00Tj]

Hey Guys,

So here are a few cheeky pic's of #536... I haven't got around to actually posting them until now! I'll put my camera on tomorrow and throw a video up soon.

 

[NeilP]

Guys, lets not forget that mini-e only have 6FETS. No way you can have the same performance with that as with a 18FET Xie based controllers.

Thanks...saved me a costly mistake...that is what the Adaptto E-Drive labs people said too on the other thread.