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E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
proper159 said:
I've been thinking water gets down on top of the sensor plug, between the frame and swing arm.
Kepler
10 MW
Thanks Spinner. Nicely moderated.
Emmett
10 kW
Proper159, Water can get inside a stock Crystalyte controller. That's a big no no. How long since you had a look inside it? It's easy to waterproof it.
I think it'd be possible for water to get inside a stock hub motor. Through the side cover joins. Water could then sit in there and cause trouble. Just a small chance that's the problem.
Another problem area is where the wires go into the axle slot. If the wheel is removed often then the insulation on the the phase wires can fatigue and crack. Then add water and dirt and things could go wrong. The stock Crystalyte phase wire insulation does seem go brittle after enough heat cycles.
I'll be interested if the problem is in that Hall wire connector plug. Since I wash my bike, carefully, after most rides - to remove loose dirt before it dries hard. I do wash the rear hub, and the plugs, with plenty of water. I've never had a water problem, yet. The contact terminals (incl Hall wires plug) look good. However I always clean water off them with an air gun. Also I periodically unplug them, air blow them clean and respray with some water dispersant. If storing for a few weeks I'll leave them unplugged but totally cleaned and then oiled.
I think it'd be possible for water to get inside a stock hub motor. Through the side cover joins. Water could then sit in there and cause trouble. Just a small chance that's the problem.
Another problem area is where the wires go into the axle slot. If the wheel is removed often then the insulation on the the phase wires can fatigue and crack. Then add water and dirt and things could go wrong. The stock Crystalyte phase wire insulation does seem go brittle after enough heat cycles.
I'll be interested if the problem is in that Hall wire connector plug. Since I wash my bike, carefully, after most rides - to remove loose dirt before it dries hard. I do wash the rear hub, and the plugs, with plenty of water. I've never had a water problem, yet. The contact terminals (incl Hall wires plug) look good. However I always clean water off them with an air gun. Also I periodically unplug them, air blow them clean and respray with some water dispersant. If storing for a few weeks I'll leave them unplugged but totally cleaned and then oiled.
Anybody knows this product?
http://www.corrosionx.com/
I was advised to use it to protect from the water the ESC of my RC Boat and I can say that after burning a ESC due to water corrosion then the second ESC was completely immersed in that oil for an half hour and is still running from many hours used in salt water too. I think it could be used on the contacts of the Stealth e-bikes.
The only drawback is that it's expensive
http://www.corrosionx.com/
I was advised to use it to protect from the water the ESC of my RC Boat and I can say that after burning a ESC due to water corrosion then the second ESC was completely immersed in that oil for an half hour and is still running from many hours used in salt water too. I think it could be used on the contacts of the Stealth e-bikes.
The only drawback is that it's expensive
Hyena
10 GW
Yeah thanks SM for cleaning all that mess up. Good work.
I always recommend wrapping the wiring/plug joint with a section of old inner tube. Either a length just slipped over and cable tied at each end or a strip of it wrapped around like a bandage (with lots of overlap). It's not totally waterproof of course but it stops showers of mud and water getting into your connectors.
On a completely unrelated note, is anyone in the market for some new bomber spare parts ?
I'm doing a complete drivetrain upgrade for a guy who's just bought a new bomber (expensive way to do it!) so will have the rear wheel, controller and battery. If you have an older bomber with a tired battery this would be a great way to get an as new replacement battery.
Justin @ Grin did alot of testing a few years back after getting countless motors back with alot of internal corrosion (worse there with all the ice and salt then many other areas like most of Au but still) and after doing alot of water testing found that no matter how well the motors were sealed up the water was actually getting in through the strands of the wiring! With the expansion and contraction of the metal as things get hot and cold it's going to draw water in and I think the conclusion was it was better to have some sort of hole to let the water back out. Get a motor hot and it'll just steam out. This is what I've always done anyway as I push my motors hard so the holes were already there for air cooling. I think the new stealths come with a small hole in the side covers that act as 'release valve' of sorts for moisture ?Emmett said:
I always recommend wrapping the wiring/plug joint with a section of old inner tube. Either a length just slipped over and cable tied at each end or a strip of it wrapped around like a bandage (with lots of overlap). It's not totally waterproof of course but it stops showers of mud and water getting into your connectors.
On a completely unrelated note, is anyone in the market for some new bomber spare parts ?
I'm doing a complete drivetrain upgrade for a guy who's just bought a new bomber (expensive way to do it!) so will have the rear wheel, controller and battery. If you have an older bomber with a tired battery this would be a great way to get an as new replacement battery.
QuietRush
100 W
proper159 said:
What's the deal with the 'have to be under 30yrs old' caveat? I run an IT Consulting company and regular tweet chats via http://www.laughingmind.com but wondering about your criteria there..could be interested.
Hyena, yes, new Stealths come with a small vent hole in the side of the motor to prevent corrosion from moisture build up. The motion of the wheel will fling out any accumulated moisture thorough it as a preventative measure.
I've been posting on here since about Page 10 in this thread - that last moderated exchange was a low point for this thread. Let's keep it respectful people. Onward and upward.
On another note, there will be no more 1500 racing class in the HunterEVFestival. The insurances to carry a racing class for anything more powerful than the school races are just too prohibitive. There may be an open class for demonstration purposes, we're still negotiating that. Will update when I know more. An open class will not be a competitive race, simply demonstration laps. Something to consider in your planning Jay and any others who attended the http://www.hunterevfestival.net/evprize-2014.html.
Yeah, thanks from me too Spinner for cleaning up that debacle...apologies if I contributed to that mess in any way.
Cheers
Ever since I saw you first suggest this, I've been doing this. Great suggestion which I would recommend to everyone. The only thing I would add, was I found water would collect towards the bottom of the tube. A few small drain holes along the bottom fixed that and it works well.Hyena said:
That really sucks as I was planning on coming for the first time this year.QuietRush said:
Cheers
Hyena
10 GW
Oh no, that's really disappointing! A real shame considering there were no accidents or injuries in this class either. I've been rallying more people in this class to come race with us this year too and was looking forward to seeing it grow in the futureQuietRush said:
I guess we can all still zip around on track together and unofficially race but it won't be the same.
I wonder if there could be some loop-holey exemption - either the racers sign a waiver, or don't fit transponders and it's simply a demonstration event where everyone wants to be the first across the line 10 laps later :wink:
Maybe I'll have to double my efforts and join the 2 seater division this year. More complex and expensive to build but should be good fun just the same.
Edit: Ah crap, I see they've axed that too!
So the only classes they have now are limited to batteries < 5kg and 384Wh ? I know a big focus of the event is the school classes but that's going to make it a total snooze-fest. The variety of higher powered and different EV classes ranging from kiddy bikes to the super bikes is what made the event interesting. They need *some* other class, even if it's electric drift trikes or something. Make it happen Brian
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Hyena, if you've seen the movie 300 you'll know what I mean.
War? Who said anything about war? I'm just going for a walk, and these are my 300 bodyguards.
War? Who said anything about war? I'm just going for a walk, and these are my 300 bodyguards.
Hyena
10 GW
haha yes indeed!Theodore Voltaire said:
It's bound to happen, you can be out for a leisurely pedal but come across another bike and suddenly it's a race :lol:
There's a quote something to that effect about when the first cars were invented - motor racing was invented shortly after the production of the second horseless carriage.
Without tools:proper159 said:
remove the bolts from one side cover (best to do the side with the wiring exit on it)
Holding the wheel by each side (like say 3 and 9 on clock face) point the opposite side axle on the ground or hard surface (ideally a piece of wood so you dont scuff up the axle) and give it a sharp jolt into the floor.
You don't need to unleash your inner hulk, a short jolt from say 1/2 an inch off the ground will knock the sidecover free of the bearing and then you push down with firm force and the wheel and hub shell will drop to the floor leaving you to pull the exposed stator out by the axle.
If you give it a really hard slam initially it might pop straight out.
White Knight
10 W
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2015
- Messages
- 94
Hey guys I have been thinking of buying a HPC bike with a bag and just wanted your opinion..........just kidding. 
So I have been trying to organise upping the gearing on the Bomer through QMS, and initially we were chasing a replacement freewheel from Stealth to change from 16 to 14 teeth. Seemed like a plan until the freewheel available will only fit the Fighter so not so easy. QMS have searched the planet to locate a 25 tooth front sprocket, so with a bit of massage it should do the job. I am thinking this might be the first mod of its type, keep youse posted.
So I have been trying to organise upping the gearing on the Bomer through QMS, and initially we were chasing a replacement freewheel from Stealth to change from 16 to 14 teeth. Seemed like a plan until the freewheel available will only fit the Fighter so not so easy. QMS have searched the planet to locate a 25 tooth front sprocket, so with a bit of massage it should do the job. I am thinking this might be the first mod of its type, keep youse posted.
Ottodog
100 W
White Knight said:Hey guys I have been thinking of buying a HPC bike with a bag and just wanted your opinion..........just kidding.
Lol. Yeah that was dumb of me. Sorry about that guys. I originally came in here to talk about Stealth and I should've left it at that. I had no idea that would happen, although I suppose I should have. Sorry for the epic derailment.
Emmett
10 kW
Yes, my 2014 Fighter had holes in the right side hub cover for breathing and periodic oiling. But I turned them into threaded M5 plug holes for my oil cooling. See pic below.Hyena said:
Seems like oil cooling solves more problems than just over heating! I have a 1m breather hole near the sprocket. Some weapage there after riding over rough ground for a couple of hours. I found the internal castor oil inside changes after about a month of my use. It appears thicker when cold, which I assume is due to moisture. So I simply drain it when it's warm and replace it with fresh oil. My hub covers are nicely sealed on their perimeter using a small bead of sikaflex. Sealed bearings. Overall no oil leaks out, and if any water gets in them in my case that's no problem.
I covered my wires in some black sikaflex where they exit the axle slot. That helps a lot to keep them clean and reduce any flexing fatigue.
Interesting to look at this pic. Since I believe that if I had a chain gear changer hanging down there (HPC style!), it'd get ripped off in about 30 minutes the way I use the bike. My Fighter takes a beating.
White Knight
10 W
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2015
- Messages
- 94
Ottodog said:White Knight said:Hey guys I have been thinking of buying a HPC bike with a bag and just wanted your opinion..........just kidding.
Lol. Yeah that was dumb of me. Sorry about that guys. I originally came in here to talk about Stealth and I should've left it at that. I had no idea that would happen, although I suppose I should have. Sorry for the epic derailment.
Hey I agree with your concerns on the Bomer as I had them too. After a few weeks I was over them, as with the other guys on the forum we love the product and will recommend it to anyone. Respect your decision though, enjoy..
Emmett
10 kW
So far I'm very impressed with my Fighter frame and swingarm. I'm certain it'd handle offroad noticeably better if it had less lateral flex, but I'm not complaining.
I'm very familiar with carbon composite products, and I understand about fatigue issues with quality high tech Jap alum bike frames. I fear that riding a claimed production ready carbon or alum off road e-bike frame means me being a test rider. Being a test rider for frame durability doesn't sound like my cup of tea. So for my e-bike, I like and trust CrMo steel very much.
Today I'd would take a revised CrMo Fighter frame (stiffer sideways and torsionally) over an experimental and overall rigid carbon or alum frame. Besides, we all need some longitudinal flex with any dirt bike frame, and with the 8kg hub motor I believe this need becomes even more important. So I suspect that a carbon or alum framed copy of the Fighter would feel too much like a jittery jack-hammer. There is also a good reason why the latest hard tail mountain bikes are made from CrMo steel. Traction, comfort and control.
I'm very familiar with carbon composite products, and I understand about fatigue issues with quality high tech Jap alum bike frames. I fear that riding a claimed production ready carbon or alum off road e-bike frame means me being a test rider. Being a test rider for frame durability doesn't sound like my cup of tea. So for my e-bike, I like and trust CrMo steel very much.
Today I'd would take a revised CrMo Fighter frame (stiffer sideways and torsionally) over an experimental and overall rigid carbon or alum frame. Besides, we all need some longitudinal flex with any dirt bike frame, and with the 8kg hub motor I believe this need becomes even more important. So I suspect that a carbon or alum framed copy of the Fighter would feel too much like a jittery jack-hammer. There is also a good reason why the latest hard tail mountain bikes are made from CrMo steel. Traction, comfort and control.
QuietRush
100 W
+1 from me Emmett. I've got a beautiful Pace RC200 ex-race MTB frame, external butted square 7000series Al tubing (http://retro-pace-mtb.wikifoundry.com/page/The+Bikes+-+Pace+RC+200'sbut have not had many racing friends with great stories of Al frame repairs - too much work hardening of the metal that ultimately creates a brittle point of failure somewhere. I had one of the early series Fighter swingarms that needed a revision by Stealth after I collapsed it under a hard+fast G-out, so after a brief intervention, all sorted and never a problem with it since..Touring riders opt for steel for just that little bit of give + flex plus ease of repair if it's ever needed.
Jay, great to hear you've been drumming up support for a few Stealth riders to attend EVFest, but I can understand the organisers position and their decision to cease the higher power rides. The insurance premiums alone are just shy of 10k - so how much would you + other riders be willing to fork out for 10laps of a race track? I'm willing to bet it wouldn't be in the >$500 mark..The reality of a race series for Stealth is that the raw rider numbers just aren't there to justify overly enthusiastic pursuit of a racing series. IIRC you raced with a fractured vertebra - the downside impact of an adverse claim by someone hitting the tarmac too hard is enough to temper my enthusiasm for 'making it happen'. For now, I'd stick with running your own informal competitions if that's your thing and you can find a venue. A go kart track such as Cameron Park can be hired out for about $650/day but good luck finding insurance. Bear in mind I'm still in discussions with CASAR Park at Warnervale, but it's still on the drawing board as a motorsports facility. See http://store.quietrush.com.au/blog/electrifying-clean-tech-riding-and-racing-options-for-the-central-coast
Something else to consider might be to come and play in a demo class at the next Transmoto12hr on the Saturday prior to Sunday race, which is also under discussion.
Jay, great to hear you've been drumming up support for a few Stealth riders to attend EVFest, but I can understand the organisers position and their decision to cease the higher power rides. The insurance premiums alone are just shy of 10k - so how much would you + other riders be willing to fork out for 10laps of a race track? I'm willing to bet it wouldn't be in the >$500 mark..The reality of a race series for Stealth is that the raw rider numbers just aren't there to justify overly enthusiastic pursuit of a racing series. IIRC you raced with a fractured vertebra - the downside impact of an adverse claim by someone hitting the tarmac too hard is enough to temper my enthusiasm for 'making it happen'. For now, I'd stick with running your own informal competitions if that's your thing and you can find a venue. A go kart track such as Cameron Park can be hired out for about $650/day but good luck finding insurance. Bear in mind I'm still in discussions with CASAR Park at Warnervale, but it's still on the drawing board as a motorsports facility. See http://store.quietrush.com.au/blog/electrifying-clean-tech-riding-and-racing-options-for-the-central-coast
Something else to consider might be to come and play in a demo class at the next Transmoto12hr on the Saturday prior to Sunday race, which is also under discussion.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
This is where I think all the animosity comes from. To build a really nice eBike takes a lot hard work, and you have to go through a difficult learning process before you know what you're doing. It can take years to get the experience necessary to become good at it. And even after that you're limited to using the components an individual can source for themselves.
Then here comes a dumb ass like me with a credit card, and all I do is buy a box of world domination from Stealth electric bikes.
Then here comes a dumb ass like me with a credit card, and all I do is buy a box of world domination from Stealth electric bikes.
Rix
100 TW
Jimboyr6 said:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55458&start=900
You should be able to get all of your questions answered here.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
My lights are all back to normal. I took care to fix the problem that caused the failure in the first place. It won't happen again. I really like being able to just hit the button, and they come on. Even though I had battery powered lights while I was waiting for the new one, it didn't feel right riding at night.
