E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Well fellow Bomberownions, I wanted to drop in and say hi. Been out of action for another spinal surgery (#5) and looking for inspiration to heal quickly so I can go ride. I bought a more comfortable seat, a bell and a bar end mirror so I can feel a lil safer on the roads.
I'm going to be needing a side stand soon, hoping Stealth announce one soon (or have I missed it) plus tyre selection plus what you guys do to make these rideable in serious snow. Ooo also I might need higher bars/bar risers but for now I need to heal and go ride just to blow away some big arse bloody dusty cobwebs on both me and my Bomber.
Another question, I'd love to know if I have any fellow Coloradan Bomber owners living and riding here on the front range. cheers!
I'm going to be needing a side stand soon, hoping Stealth announce one soon (or have I missed it) plus tyre selection plus what you guys do to make these rideable in serious snow. Ooo also I might need higher bars/bar risers but for now I need to heal and go ride just to blow away some big arse bloody dusty cobwebs on both me and my Bomber.
Another question, I'd love to know if I have any fellow Coloradan Bomber owners living and riding here on the front range. cheers!
Rix
100 TW
Bexxer said:
Glad you are on the mend Bexxer, You know, a thud buster seat post my help on your Bomber with back surgery recover. http://www.thudbuster.com/products.html Yah, mount your seat to that, and spinal compression worries be gone. As far as tires go, there isn't a very big selection in the 24MTb range, in fact there isn't much at all. You really need to look at a moto rim wheel conversion and run a 2.75-19 SR241 in the snow, short of studs this tire is really good in the snow.
Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
Nice and muddy man. Send Theodore Voltaire a pm and tell him hot these machines made for offroad more so than on road. :lol:
CJonaBttlrckt
100 W
Hi folks,
On a sort of related area regarding tyre setup, i.e. the rear with a motor cycle rim and tyre and Tubliss system.
I can confirm after several weeks riding that a 19" Tubliss can be modified to work on a 19"X1.4" rim. I nearly bought a bigger rim instead. I am glad I didn't, though I was apprehensive to take the plunge.
I simply cut and filed the rim lock plate down to match the outside dimensions of the 21" version of the Tubliss and ground the rubber block under it to similarly match the 21" tubliss dimensions and presto!
I took measurements of the 21" Tubliss at the local bike shop when purchasing the Tubliss.
The 19" inner tyre is somewhat larger than the 21", however this seems to be an advantage for square edge slamability, which seems significantly improved.
Cheers,
Clinton
On a sort of related area regarding tyre setup, i.e. the rear with a motor cycle rim and tyre and Tubliss system.
I can confirm after several weeks riding that a 19" Tubliss can be modified to work on a 19"X1.4" rim. I nearly bought a bigger rim instead. I am glad I didn't, though I was apprehensive to take the plunge.
I simply cut and filed the rim lock plate down to match the outside dimensions of the 21" version of the Tubliss and ground the rubber block under it to similarly match the 21" tubliss dimensions and presto!
I took measurements of the 21" Tubliss at the local bike shop when purchasing the Tubliss.
The 19" inner tyre is somewhat larger than the 21", however this seems to be an advantage for square edge slamability, which seems significantly improved.
Cheers,
Clinton
Emmett
10 kW
That's awesome Clinton. I'm jealous. But I'm also happy you did it. I find my Fighter became a true go anywhere machine with the Tubliss setup. Just look up ahead, pick a line, and hammer it and let the tyres and suspension deal with the rough ground.CJonaBttlrckt said:
I think a 1.4 would be better than my 1.6 because with the 1.6 I have to be a little careful about rear wheel line selection when there is a chance of a sharp embedded rock gouging the side of the rim. Now your 1.4 is protected by some tyre sidewall. However I've done a lot of riding and have only one rim scratch so far.
What tyre did you go for?
With a SR241 on the rear I use 17 PSI air pressure, and find that's a good pressure for best control and grip. During hard impacts with 15 PSI, the tyre gives way too easily to the mass of the whole wheel (H4065 hub in the Fighter), so the red inner Tubliss liner often takes hard hits that can sometimes throw you off line. With 19 or more PSI, the rear wheel is noticeably more jittery over the sharp hard bumps. The red inner liner I inflate to about 85. To seal the outer tyre to the rim, I found no need to go the the full 100 PSI on the inner.
When I installed my SR241 tyre, I brushed some slime sealant on the insides of the tyre bead, and 6 months later the rear tyre still holds air pressure better than any tube I have in the front.
With a Razorback on the front, and a std density 21" MC tube, I use 20 to 22 PSI. That I seems soft enough for traction, and I'm afraid to go any lower because I smash into sharp embedded rocks during the majority of sections on my rides.
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- Feb 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,903
Bexxer,
stop by your local bike shop and inquire about nokian / suomityres snow tires..
you could also just pick up some extra stock bike tires and add ice studs..
[youtube]lxYa4Lb3VRI[/youtube]
http://www.suomityres.fi/
they do make a 24" snow tire but it is not super wide for deep powder..
"M&G W144 STUD A 47-507"
"507" is the 24" tire..
stop by your local bike shop and inquire about nokian / suomityres snow tires..
you could also just pick up some extra stock bike tires and add ice studs..
[youtube]lxYa4Lb3VRI[/youtube]
http://www.suomityres.fi/
they do make a 24" snow tire but it is not super wide for deep powder..
"M&G W144 STUD A 47-507"
"507" is the 24" tire..
Bexxer said:
Rix
100 TW
CJonaBttlrckt said:
That is awesome Clinton!! I always speculated that this would work with the aluminum rim block modded, but didn't want to spend 100 bucks to find out if theory also equaled reality. You have done this and I am happy. Since I am running 18x1.4 rims, I going to do the same thing. That said, the next time you remove your tire, can you snap a pic of the block and rubber stack grommet and get me some exact dimensions?
Rix said:
Hey all,
Not to counter the tubliss setup but im running my bomber w 19" moto rim on back w a 241 tire and a standard Moto tube (not HD) at 15 psi. along w the front razorback w HD bike tube at 15psi for well over a year now w/o any flats or issues. I ride 99 percent offroad... Now I weigh 167 w/o gear on. Glad to see the tubliss set up workin though.
Emmett
10 kW
I assume it's different terrain and usage types I think. With 15 PSI in a rear 241 tire and a std tube, my current 19" rim would be destroyed. It's easy to feel when my tubliss high pressure inner liner smacks into things. I'm 167 lbs too. Fighter wheel and bike a lot lighter than the Bomber.1abv said:
Emmett said:
Hard to say..could be suspension setup as well, could be many things...too many factors really. Even on my motos I run crazy low pressure w HD tubes and don't ever get flats..
8 psi in a race through this stuff
The little red circle is a motorcycle...that was a fun rock garden…
CJonaBttlrckt
100 W
Re the tubliss setup on my 19"X1.4" MC rimmed bomber;
Regarding the adequacy of a HD tube; I am running a SR241 tyre with a rim lock and I found after approximately 2-3 months of regular riding the HD tube simply wore out or rubbed through. I have a good stack of worn through HD tubes under my bench. The tube would rub through, usually at the rim lock. I assume from the weight of the hub just giving the tyre and consequently the tube a hard time on the rocky and root strewn terrain I ride. Also, I found I needed to use a rim lock as the tyre would spin and pull my valve though or rip it out after a couple of rides. It seems I had to run the HD tubes a bit harder, at least 25lbs rather than around 18-20lbs with the tubliss. Any softer than this with the HD tube and it wore out or through even quicker.
I should also confirm I have had the shock revalved and it now performs a whole lot better. I think I still have to get a lighter spring, say 650lbs, to improve the rear suspension action even more. Even with the shock revalves a coupke of months ago I had worn out one tube and was on my way through another when I needed a new tyre and went Tubliss with the new tyre.
Rix, I am hoping not to have to take the tyre and tubliss off for a while, hopefully when I have worn out the tyre, so I can't get you a photo for a while.
The dimensions I measured and used from the 21" Tubliss were;
-for the aluminium rim plate = 48.75mm wide at the outside edge (the original 19" dimension was 57.75mm). I cut and filed the angle on the outer edge of the plate and the small half round grooves like the original. I didn't change the plates length, though I think the 21" plate is shorter than the 19".
-for the rubber block = 18mm wide (original 19" dimension was 23mm). This is measured from the rounded side through which the valve runs to the outside edge that sits against the inside of the rim opposite to the side the small tube runs past. I also put a small approx 3mm chamfered adge on the bottom inside edge of the rubber block where it would sit against the rim tyre bead.
The height of the rubber block was the same between the 19" and 21" versions of the Tubliss.
Cheers,
Clinton
Regarding the adequacy of a HD tube; I am running a SR241 tyre with a rim lock and I found after approximately 2-3 months of regular riding the HD tube simply wore out or rubbed through. I have a good stack of worn through HD tubes under my bench. The tube would rub through, usually at the rim lock. I assume from the weight of the hub just giving the tyre and consequently the tube a hard time on the rocky and root strewn terrain I ride. Also, I found I needed to use a rim lock as the tyre would spin and pull my valve though or rip it out after a couple of rides. It seems I had to run the HD tubes a bit harder, at least 25lbs rather than around 18-20lbs with the tubliss. Any softer than this with the HD tube and it wore out or through even quicker.
I should also confirm I have had the shock revalved and it now performs a whole lot better. I think I still have to get a lighter spring, say 650lbs, to improve the rear suspension action even more. Even with the shock revalves a coupke of months ago I had worn out one tube and was on my way through another when I needed a new tyre and went Tubliss with the new tyre.
Rix, I am hoping not to have to take the tyre and tubliss off for a while, hopefully when I have worn out the tyre, so I can't get you a photo for a while.
The dimensions I measured and used from the 21" Tubliss were;
-for the aluminium rim plate = 48.75mm wide at the outside edge (the original 19" dimension was 57.75mm). I cut and filed the angle on the outer edge of the plate and the small half round grooves like the original. I didn't change the plates length, though I think the 21" plate is shorter than the 19".
-for the rubber block = 18mm wide (original 19" dimension was 23mm). This is measured from the rounded side through which the valve runs to the outside edge that sits against the inside of the rim opposite to the side the small tube runs past. I also put a small approx 3mm chamfered adge on the bottom inside edge of the rubber block where it would sit against the rim tyre bead.
The height of the rubber block was the same between the 19" and 21" versions of the Tubliss.
Cheers,
Clinton
Emmett
10 kW
Thanks for the 21" Tubliss trim down measurement data.CJonaBttlrckt said:
Maybe leave the tyre on for a long as possible. With a 1.6" (or even a 1.85") wide MC rim it's difficult to remove the tyre without accidentally catching and damaging the expensive Tubliss inner red liner. With a narrower 1.4" rim I presume it'll more difficult. Maybe best to cut the tyre off once the tread is worn. Problem with that is this soft rubber SR241 tyre doesn't wear fast. Maybe 5% of the wear rate of a razorback!
Rix
100 TW
CJonaBttlrckt said:
I wouldn't expect you remove that just for some pics, that would make me an a$$hole if I did. At some point, you will wear that 241 down to the point of replacement, when that happens, don't forget about your ole buddy Rix and snap some pics.
Thinking the same thing Emmett. What I found that worked in the past is take a bead breaker, and after you break the bead, walk the bead back and forth with the breaker until is moves away from the red liner. I never ran tubliss on the front of my machines, just the rear and yah, a 1.85 wide rim was difficult not to leave a "kiss" mark on the red liner during tire removal.
Allex
100 MW
I am doing a replacement pack for one Bomber user now.
This pack will be 21Ah and half the weight of the stock one. Price is about 1500usd
You can use your old charger, just plug and play.
View attachment 1
Could even do a 27Ah cost is around 1700usd
42Ah is possible but then we need to swap out the charger and it will be really tight!
This pack will be 21Ah and half the weight of the stock one. Price is about 1500usd
You can use your old charger, just plug and play.
View attachment 1
Could even do a 27Ah cost is around 1700usd
42Ah is possible but then we need to swap out the charger and it will be really tight!
Allex
100 MW
Well if it does you have to exchange it.
Just like I did in my old stock Bomber pack. But lets hope that it aint gonna happen =)
Just like I did in my old stock Bomber pack. But lets hope that it aint gonna happen =)
Rix
100 TW
Jimboyr6 said:
That would make your BOmber sound like a SX125! because of wheel speed. You should try it. Be good for a you tube video laugh. Hell, probably get 100,000 likes in a month.
Rix
100 TW
Allex said:
Allex, is this battery a 21S battery? I ask because the stock 2012 Bomber charger (24s LifePo4) could charge each cell in 21s configuration up to 4.17 volts. My dad may need a new battery down the road for my old Bomber, this fits the bill.
Allex
100 MW
Yes Rick, it is 21s
Rix
100 TW
Jimboyr6 said:
Now you are talking!
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