E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Ironsteed said:
Rix said:
Ironsteed said:
Thanks heaps for you’re feedback guys! I guess I’ll try and make contact with Suntour and see what they have to say.

Let us know how it goes, I had no luck with Suntour North America and couldn't get a hold of anyone else.


update...

Suntour finally got back to me (weeks later) and announced they DO NOT manufacture a 160mm crank for the Vboxx.
However I have seen YouTube vids where guy have had drilled and threaded another hole 10mm lower than the standard on the same crank. Is this crazy talk or totally kosher??



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Keep in mind that the crank arms are designed to be the weakest link of the system. They will bend when they hit something and are designed to. I'm not saying that you will break internals but the internals are way more of a pain in the ass to deal with but.... you never know. Just something to be aware of.

Suntour is usless when it comes to the Vboxxes Stealth is your best bet. If you send to suntour you are sending to your vboxx to tawain and last I checked it was weeks in turnaround..but really who knows how long that will take...
 
1abv said:
Ironsteed said:
Rix said:
Ironsteed said:
Thanks heaps for you’re feedback guys! I guess I’ll try and make contact with Suntour and see what they have to say.

Let us know how it goes, I had no luck with Suntour North America and couldn't get a hold of anyone else.


update...

Suntour finally got back to me (weeks later) and announced they DO NOT manufacture a 160mm crank for the Vboxx.
However I have seen YouTube vids where guy have had drilled and threaded another hole 10mm lower than the standard on the same crank. Is this crazy talk or totally kosher??



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep in mind that the crank arms are designed to be the weakest link of the system. They will bend when they hit something and are designed to. I'm not saying that you will break internals but the internals are way more of a pain in the ass to deal with but.... you never know. Just something to be aware of.

Suntour is usless when it comes to the Vboxxes Stealth is your best bet. If you send to suntour you are sending to your vboxx to tawain and last I checked it was weeks in turnaround..but really who knows how long that will take...

Hmmm, I did speak to Luke at Stealth and it’s a no go. Might have to peddle less, I just feel so guilty!





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Ironsteed said:
update...

Suntour finally got back to me (weeks later) and announced they DO NOT manufacture a 160mm crank for the Vboxx.
However I have seen YouTube vids where guy have had drilled and threaded another hole 10mm lower than the standard on the same crank. Is this crazy talk or totally kosher??



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is what I would do. Get a set of crank arms, and cut a section out of them to get the length you want. Put a deep bevel on the edges of the cut, and have someone whos a skilled welder, accurately weld then back together, filling the bevel in with weld material. Then you can grind, or file the excess metal away, and still have a strong bond.
 
1abv.. I'm happy with my battery purchase from Hi-C.
I took a ride couple days ago my Max Speed 51.8 average speed 21.8. 1 hour 58 minutes was myride I only use 19.5ah 42.7 miles distance. I don't know the weight of the battery but it's heavy. So with 36ah and pedaling I should be able to get 80 miles. My old battery I used to do 21 miles using 9 to 11ah.
 
FL,
Thanks for the update.. I was looking for a way to increase my range, not necessarily power so that seems like good way..
 
Now that I've had time to get used to riding with my controller set on 65 amps, I think I'll set it back to 60 amp. I can feel the controller getting warmer than it used to, and summer isn't here yet.

There's a slight difference in acceleration, but almost no difference in top speed.
 
Compared to 5 years ago the battery's we can get now are great. I wonder what they'll be like 5 years from now?
 
The old guard, meets it's replacement. Last night I got to show off to a Harley rider. I happened to ride by his house as he was getting on his bike. By the time he got the beasty started I was 2 blocks ahead. I could hear the loud monster coming behind me, so I gassed it. About 7 blocks, and 2 stop signs later he finally caught up to me at the second stop sign. He pulled up next to me on the left. His eyes were bugging out of his head eyeballing my bike. He said that thing must have a motor, I saw you pedaling past my house back there. I was racing down the street trying to catch you. I can't believe how fast that thing is. I gave him my best poker face, and said no I'm the worlds greatest athlete, and we both laughed. :lol: I told him it was electric, and he said that's a great way to get around town. That was probably the first time he ever had a good impression of an eBike, but not the last I'm sure.
 
Has anyone got any advise on chargers. I now have 3 chargers for my new battery, but not complete happiness with any of them. The free one that came with the battery is only 4 amp, and takes all day to charge. I charges to 84.1v.

The fancy one I bought on alibaba with the adjustable current knob gets to about full charge, and starts to cycle on and off. Not only that, but it didn't even work at all until we figured out the factory reversed the polarity. This charger has 1 adjustable pot that controls the dc voltage. Changing the adjustment seems to have little effect on the cycling, but it does change the voltage.

The third one I bought on Amazon works ok, but it only charges to 83.8v. I would adjust it higher, but it has 3 pots, and I don't know which on to adjust.

Does anyone understand what all these adjustable pots do? The 4 amp charger has 2 pots. The fancy adjustable current charger only has 1 pot, plus a current knob, and the one I bought on Amazon has 3 frickin pots.
 
If you want the best:
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/chargers/cycle-satiator-72v-5a.html

But the 83,8 is fine. You if you charge your cells to about 4,1V=82V you will have a greater life span on the pack.
No need to squeeze those extra Volts, you gain extremely little range but loose way more of the battery life.
Example:
4.25V Cycles: 200–350
4.20V Cycles: 300–500
4.15V Cycles: 400–700
4.10V Cycles: 600–1,000

https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
 
Allex said:
If you want the best:
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/chargers/cycle-satiator-72v-5a.html

But the 83,8 is fine. You if you charge your cells to about 4,1V=82V you will have a greater life span on the pack.
No need to squeeze those extra Volts, you gain extremely little range but loose way more of the battery life.
Example:
4.25V Cycles: 200–350
4.20V Cycles: 300–500
4.15V Cycles: 400–700
4.10V Cycles: 600–1,000

https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

Thanks Allex
 
With my ca set back to 60 amp, my watt meter has gone back to 4500w. After it settles down from peaking, it runs a little over 4500 hot off the charger.
 
Road to and from work yesterday 42 Mi total.
Used 21ah 46 miles an hour top speed average speed 34. Funny how people say electric bikes are cheating..
My thighs and hamstrings hurt so bad I can barely walk today. Went past 2 speed detector signs my cycle analyst was spot-on with their ratings. My amp settings 65.9.
Been riding with no rear brake just front brake and Regen. CDs torque block works great no movement at all.. they are getting a little bit of rust . I want to get them anodized but worried they won't fit after. Since they are so tight on axle.
 
Hi Guys - I hope everyone had a great winter...!!

I dont want to sidetrack the thread... but, I'm just trying to wrap up a winter/spring project with the bike and I could use your help. I was reaching out to 1abv directly, but I dont think its fair for the poor guy to answer all of my questions...lol.

soooo... in summary, I did a full disassembly of the bike and its off to get powder coated. In the meantime I thought I would take advantage of the bike being apart and do some minor maintenance work...(ie. replace the brake pads, replace the tube, tires, etc..) and do a fresh clean up. I have the tires and tubes and tuffy on order so I'm good to go there... The one thing that I did not do was, replace the rear wheel with a MC wheel... I'm going to wait until after the season to do that.

That said... since I have everything apart and some time on my hands until I get it back from the powder coater, is there anything else that I can take advantage of...? or something that I should replace while I have it apart..? Especially with the vBoxx.

Also... does anything have a torque list for reassembly... More specific...
- The allen bolts where the frame mounts to the vboxx
- The swing-arm bolt at the vboxx (C-clamp)
- Front & rear wheel bolts
- I plan to reassemble with blue loctite

Thanks for any help... Rick
 
djjoonie said:
Random pics of my bomber and fighter and hidden tool kit :)

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Where did you buy you headset and hidden tool, handle bars and seat from?
 
StudRock said:
Hi Guys - I hope everyone had a great winter...!!

Also... does anything have a torque list for reassembly... More specific...
- The allen bolts where the frame mounts to the vboxx
- The swing-arm bolt at the vboxx (C-clamp)
- Front & rear wheel bolts
- I plan to reassemble with blue loctite

Thanks for any help... Rick

Torque the axle bolts to 30 ft lb
I would torque the VBoxx allens to 15 ft lb
 
HI TV... Thanks for the follow up, sounds good..!

I'm looking forward to get the bike back together. Is there other maintenance items that I might be able to take advantage of while I have everything apart...? I've replaced the brakes and I also replaced the tube and tires as well. I dont think there is any servicing that can be done on the vboxx, but I'm not 100% sure.

Thank you again... Rick
 
StudRock said:
HI TV... Thanks for the follow up, sounds good..!

I'm looking forward to get the bike back together. Is there other maintenance items that I might be able to take advantage of while I have everything apart...? I've replaced the brakes and I also replaced the tube and tires as well. I dont think there is any servicing that can be done on the vboxx, but I'm not 100% sure.

Thank you again... Rick

besides lubing my chain, and brake maintenance, I shoot grease into the VBoxx once or twice a year.

Gearbox-lube-ports.jpg
 
PERFECT..!! - Thank you so much for sharing. I couldn't imagine there not being some type of maintenance on the vboxx. I just so happens that I was JUST Reading back on page 255 of this novel the discussion between you and Rix and CD regarding this topic.

Judging from what Rix posted, it sounds like the best way is to spray some WD40 in the vboxx, run the bike through the gears a few times, drain and refill with 160 ml of Superlube. I was kinda hoping to do the maintenance with the vboxx off the bike, but it looks like thats not the case, especially if I have to drive the WD40 thru the gears. oh well... that's fine. At this point, I'm just chomping at the bit to get the bike back together once the frame gets back from powder coating.

Todays project is installing the new tubes and tires... wish me luck..!
 
StudRock said:
PERFECT..!! - Thank you so much for sharing. I couldn't imagine there not being some type of maintenance on the vboxx. I just so happens that I was JUST Reading back on page 255 of this novel the discussion between you and Rix and CD regarding this topic.

Judging from what Rix posted, it sounds like the best way is to spray some WD40 in the vboxx, run the bike through the gears a few times, drain and refill with 160 ml of Superlube. I was kinda hoping to do the maintenance with the vboxx off the bike, but it looks like thats not the case, especially if I have to drive the WD40 thru the gears. oh well... that's fine. At this point, I'm just chomping at the bit to get the bike back together once the frame gets back from powder coating.

Todays project is installing the new tubes and tires... wish me luck..!

All you really need to do is turn the cranks and run all the gears from 1-9 for a couple of revolutions and drain. This can probably be done with the Boxx off the bike.
 
Speaking of the v boxx, I went for the first ride on my new B52 yesterday. This is my 1st post, but I’ve been reading this list for weeks. I’ve only read about 450 pages here, as Stealth got the bike to me in just over a month of the dreaded wait.

It took a little while to remember not to pedal when shifting. And my big hands will move the grip shifter when I don’t intend to. I just adjusted the detent allen screw to make moving the shifter take more effort. (Thanks Martin/d logic I really admire your abilities). I’d like to rotate the grip shifter toward the rear of the bike, as the little window is angled away from view and I can’t yet tell the gears by feel alone. I’m embarrassed to say I can’t readily discern the screw that loosens the grip shifter on the handlebars. I’d appreciate it if someone would post a picture or tell me how to do this.

The only mods I’ve made so-far is to peal off and throw away the little sticker mounted above the CA that said “Off road use only”.

I’ve only put 45 miles on the bike. Unfortunately the hard plastic seat the bike came with is narrower then my ischial bones. I’ve had to push it all the way back on the seat post to allow me to fit the bike. For me, its comfort level is a little worse than a prostate biopsy. I’ve ordered a Brooks B17 to replace it.

Performance; I’m still riding only in economy mode 😖 for the first few battery cycles as per the user manual. Of concern is the setting in the CA for competition mode, limiting the motor to 5200 watts. Stealth advertised the new motor as being 6200 watts. Can anyone explain this?

Suspension; I think the rear suspension is really nice. Even with all the un-sprung weight of the motor. The front is mushy. So much so that it’s a problem pedaling off from a stop. Grip the bars and step on the pedal and the fork immediately dives 3 to 4 inches before the bike moves forward. It’s hard to maintain precise directional control under these conditions. I’ve added 150 psi to the shock and cranked up the preload. What was surprising was how much it improved by decreasing damping. I’m still adjusting and I certainly haven’t stress tested it.

Bike stuff; I guess this is because of the regen feature, but the pedals rotate when the bike is pushed backward. I live where you can wear shorts all year round, and the sharp metal studs on the pedals have lacerated my legs twice. Hopefully I’ll learn not to straddle the bike and back up before I bleed to death.🙂

Quality; It’s impressive. Every thing works as designed. If I get excessively picky I could say powder coat is a little thin on the inside of the bracket for the seat post. But I’ve needed to be told that I may have unrealistic expectations in this area, specifically “These airplanes aren’t made by angels in heaven, thier made by sinners in Texas.

It’s nice to be among the fine Stealth Ridders who post to this list.

A
 
Rix said:
All you really need to do is turn the cranks and run all the gears from 1-9 for a couple of revolutions and drain. This can probably be done with the Boxx off the bike.

Thanks for the feedback Rick... and also for the advice on the tube install. Unfortunately, the tube and tire install didn't go as I would have hoped. I ordered the Maxxis xtra duty tubes and Denzel tire for the front wheel. Those tires are hard as sh@# and it was a nightmare to get them on the wheel. And yes, I even let the tire sit out in the sun for a few hours too. Anyway, I must have pinched the tube with the irons in the process of putting the tire on and it leaked. I think I'm going to let the bike shop put those things on... they are just way too stiff..
 
SR, if you’re around 9th and Passyunk grab me a cheese with and ride down this way. 😀
 
Alto said:
SR, if you’re around 9th and Passyunk grab me a cheese with and ride down this way. [emoji3]
Look at you.. A Philly boy in the house. And here I thought I was the only one with a bomber out in Philly. Yes..!! As soon as I get the bike back together I'll be more than happy to stop down and raise some hell with you guys. A cheese with is definitely doable..! Maybe even two

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StudRock said:
Rix said:
All you really need to do is turn the cranks and run all the gears from 1-9 for a couple of revolutions and drain. This can probably be done with the Boxx off the bike.

Thanks for the feedback Rick... and also for the advice on the tube install. Unfortunately, the tube and tire install didn't go as I would have hoped. I ordered the Maxxis xtra duty tubes and Denzel tire for the front wheel. Those tires are hard as sh@# and it was a nightmare to get them on the wheel. And yes, I even let the tire sit out in the sun for a few hours too. Anyway, I must have pinched the tube with the irons in the process of putting the tire on and it leaked. I think I'm going to let the bike shop put those things on... they are just way too stiff..

So did the tubes didn't work because of you couldn't mount the tire on the bead, or you couldn't get it to work?
 
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