E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[biknut]

Honestly I don't remember needing the bottom bracket tool, but it's probably obvious why you need it when you get to that point.

 

[Longshot]

Yes, I've found your thread very helpful. I've been over it several times in the last few days. I'm sure I'll figure the rest out. Thank you, sir!

 

[biknut]

For what it's worth, the $16 bearings I bought are still just fine after thousands of miles.

 

[Rix]

For what it's worth, the $16 bearings I bought are still just fine after thousands of miles.

Thousands of easy road miles :lol: :?

 

[Longshot]

Its fixed. Bearings slid off by hand. Thanks y'all!

 

[Longshot]

Ok, one more question about the swingarm clamps that go around the bearings. Should I tighten one bolt on each side first so that the mating surfaces touch or tighten all bolts evenly which would give me a gap at each bolt? Usually, I clamp one side all the way down, like on a handlebar clamp, and then the other bolt so one side has no gap...

 

[Longshot]

I decided to check the motor. I had put some internet Ferrofluid in the motor before Statorfluid came out. It's dried out and clumpy. It also smells strongly of chemicals. Oddly, a triangular shaped piece broke off of one of my magnets and has been dragging on the stator. I pulled the broken trangular magnet piece out and I'm thinking about what I should do with this. I've been fixing my other while while I ride my old Bomber so I want to get it working ASAP without much hassle. Should I try to clean up the old Ferrofluid and then add Statorade? I want this to last for the rest of the summer.

 

[1abv]

Ok, one more question about the swingarm clamps that go around the bearings. Should I tighten one bolt on each side first so that the mating surfaces touch or tighten all bolts evenly which would give me a gap at each bolt? Usually, I clamp one side all the way down, like on a handlebar clamp, and then the other bolt so one side has no gap...

Tighten both evenly. You can squeeze one section of the bearing If you overtighten or tighten one bolt more than the other.

 

[1abv]

I decided to check the motor. I had put some internet Ferrofluid in the motor before Statorfluid came out. It's dried out and clumpy. It also smells strongly of chemicals. Oddly, a triangular shaped piece broke off of one of my magnets and has been dragging on the stator. I pulled the broken trangular magnet piece out and I'm thinking about what I should do with this. I've been fixing my other while while I ride my old Bomber so I want to get it working ASAP without much hassle. Should I try to clean up the old Ferrofluid and then add Statorade? I want this to last for the rest of the summer.

Yes clean and then add. Sounds like the piece your missing isn’t affecting performance so I wouldn’t worry about it

 

[biknut]

For what it's worth, the $16 bearings I bought are still just fine after thousands of miles.

Thousands of easy road miles :lol: :?

The stock bearings didn't seem to think so.

 

[Rix]

For what it's worth, the $16 bearings I bought are still just fine after thousands of miles.

Thousands of easy road miles :lol: :?

The stock bearings didn't seem to think so.

Which is weird. I still have the stock bearing on my Bomber, 16000 miles of road and dirt road, probably 2/3 of the mileage is dirt. The bearings still look great and don't have any surface race play.

 

[Longshot]

I think my magnets are going to come off soon. I think I'll try to get an H55100. Am I looking for an H55 with 137mm dropouts or 162mm? My bomber dropouts are 162mm but will the 162mm fit? I need the 137, right?

 

[Longshot]

Will this missing piece affect anything until I get a new motor? The corner of the magnet was flipping up and grinding against the stator. The particles combined with the Ferrofluid and turned to clumps. Its probably the reason the magnets are still attached

 

[biknut]

Which is weird. I still have the stock bearing on my Bomber, 16000 miles of road and dirt road, probably 2/3 of the mileage is dirt. The bearings still look great and don't have any surface race play.

Yeah, I think we can assume it was just a defective bearing since it happened early on, and especially considering swing arm bearing failure doesn't seem to be a thing with Bombers ridden under a lot more demanding conditions than my bike sees.

 

[Rix]

Will this missing piece affect anything until I get a new motor? The corner of the magnet was flipping up and grinding against the stator. The particles combined with the Ferrofluid and turned to clumps. Its probably the reason the magnets are still attached

You may want to number the magnets and carefully remove them and consider re-gluing with something strong like JB weld or a high strength epoxy. The damaged magnet isn't a problem, but it will be a pain to reinstall because of the apposing polarity.

 

[Rix]

Which is weird. I still have the stock bearing on my Bomber, 16000 miles of road and dirt road, probably 2/3 of the mileage is dirt. The bearings still look great and don't have any surface race play.

Yeah, I think we can assume it was just a defective bearing since it happened early on, and especially considering swing arm bearing failure doesn't seem to be a thing with Bombers ridden under a lot more demanding conditions than my bike sees.

Yah, must have been a fluke thing with yours.

 

[KarlJ]

I think my magnets are going to come off soon. I think I'll try to get an H55100. Am I looking for an H55 with 137mm dropouts or 162mm? My bomber dropouts are 162mm but will the 162mm fit? I need the 137, right?

The current spec bomber is a UFO 5565 and good for about 85km/hr on the flat with 22S, The 5404 it came with good for an extra 10km/hr. On 20S probably 10km/hr slower, on the stock lifepo4 battery only see 5000W and more often than not 4200W.
With the 22S setup i did see a peak of 6200W but now my battery has 100cycles or so its around 6000W. I went for the LGMJ1 3500mAH cells in 22S10P and I should have gone 12P. I think i can make 22S13P fit, but the BMS would be a plug in item mounted with double sided tape or similar elsewhere in the frame space.

 

[KarlJ]

So can I upgrade the battery and that's it? Do I need a new controller? I don't know where to start.

To summarize, I want more low end power, would be ok sacrificing top end speed, want to go farther on a charge and want it to not shit the bed. Fast, Cheap, Reliable... I know I only get two so I'll choose fast and reliable if given the choice.

Thank you!

Start with the battery - its an expensive and time consuming exercise, build photos of some excellent options are here on this thread. Personally I think 22S13P will fit (6 cells may need to sit ontop) but many controllers are tapped out at 90V and you should limit the charge to this anyway IMHO as you can potentially increase the pack life alot.

If building your own (recommended) you can spot weld or use solar panel tinned copper bus tape which is ~2.5x more conductive than nickel which is more commonly used and you can use a big iron an simply solder them. (people say you shouldnt but my pack came out > than its nominal capacity anyway and ~60+deg battery temps after ride/charge/ride cycle are flogging the ^%&$ out of them anyway.

Take the max continuous ratings with a grain of salt as >70% of that rating and they get HOT FAST = cant be good so aim for this if you want to pull big grunt you need 15-20A rated continuous cells and 12P giving you a realistic 100-120A continuous discharge rate . I run mine at max 80A which is more like 65-70A at full throttle after it settles. At this I get ~30decC temp rise over the course of a discharge. If I charge at 0.5C I get a 8-9 deg temp rise from 10% to 90%.

Charge the day before you ride, allow the battery to rest 60mins at end of ride before charging it again. and dont think for a second that charge/ride/charge/ride will not cause damaging cell temps in the 60-80deg range. (at least on my pack)

TRY and not flatten the bike to BMS cutout on every ride and leave say 5kms range left when you get home. I get 60kms quite reliably when going hard and i get right out of the power when I get down to 70V (unloaded) and creep home if thats the case.

 

[KarlJ]

 

[KarlJ]

Out today, cracking weather here in Melbourne.
Looks like stage 4 corona restrictions so not more than 5kms from home will kick in this week. Hence gave it a good workout today 85km ride

 

[Rix]

So can I upgrade the battery and that's it? Do I need a new controller? I don't know where to start.

To summarize, I want more low end power, would be ok sacrificing top end speed, want to go farther on a charge and want it to not shit the bed. Fast, Cheap, Reliable... I know I only get two so I'll choose fast and reliable if given the choice.

Thank you!

Start with the battery - its an expensive and time consuming exercise, build photos of some excellent options are here on this thread. Personally I think 22S13P will fit (6 cells may need to sit ontop) but many controllers are tapped out at 90V and you should limit the charge to this anyway IMHO as you can potentially increase the pack life alot.

If building your own (recommended) you can spot weld or use solar panel tinned copper bus tape which is ~2.5x more conductive than nickel which is more commonly used and you can use a big iron an simply solder them. (people say you shouldnt but my pack came out > than its nominal capacity anyway and ~60+deg battery temps after ride/charge/ride cycle are flogging the ^%&$ out of them anyway.

Take the max continuous ratings with a grain of salt as >70% of that rating and they get HOT FAST = cant be good so aim for this if you want to pull big grunt you need 15-20A rated continuous cells and 12P giving you a realistic 100-120A continuous discharge rate . I run mine at max 80A which is more like 65-70A at full throttle after it settles. At this I get ~30decC temp rise over the course of a discharge. If I charge at 0.5C I get a 8-9 deg temp rise from 10% to 90%.

Charge the day before you ride, allow the battery to rest 60mins at end of ride before charging it again. and dont think for a second that charge/ride/charge/ride will not cause damaging cell temps in the 60-80deg range. (at least on my pack)

TRY and not flatten the bike to BMS cutout on every ride and leave say 5kms range left when you get home. I get 60kms quite reliably when going hard and i get right out of the power when I get down to 70V (unloaded) and creep home if thats the case.

@Selvator, this is excellent advice. Karl went into alot more detail than I did.

 

[Rix]

Nice ride with Pops up in Tahoe on the Nevada side.

 

[1abv]

Sure looks Purdy up there

 

[Rix]

Sure looks Purdy up there

It is beautiful, can't let you be the only one posting pics from rides.

 

[1abv]

Rix,
Are you running the 5565 UFO motor? Im still on the OG motor on my bike. I know you have run a ton of motors and wanted to see what you think. I've read that its slower but has more torque (perfect for me), is a bit louder and has a new hall-sensor harness which means I would need to either run an adapter or rewire the controller with to the new plug since im running the CAV3.

I wanted specifically to know a couple of things..
-how does it deal with heat compared to the OG motor? I do a crap load of really long hill climbs that eventually get my motor pretty hot. even with statoraide and hubsinks.
-Can you feel a difference in suspension / handling? (reading that its quite a bit lighter)
-Where did you get yours from? Directly from stealth?

Thanks in advance! and keep the pics coming!!