E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

It certainly sounds like you have got some water in somewhere creating a gremlin in the CA, i believe it uses the Hall sensors to determine speed from the number of wheel rotations, check the 5 pin hall sensor connector which on my bike is at the back of the gearbox in front of the rear shock, the cogging and speedo error could both be caused by a fault in the Hall wiring. Open the connector up and thrash it with WD!

Makes my full mudgaurds look not so daft! I did get mine caked in mud around the shock a few times but the fear of getting water where it can get upto mischief led me to fit the mudgaurds, now the shock area stays clean no matter what the conditions are when i ride.

PICT3058.jpg
 
Hey tench, yes I believe it has something to do with the 5 pin hall plug as it gives different readings each time I unplug and plug it in.....thanks for your swift reply and the pic.


Would wd not conduct electricity and cause a short across the pins?

If I can solve the problem then I will heat shrink over the connector and then use some waterproof tape over top, I have blown out the female side of the plug with a heat gun on low but no better.
 
The fault may be on the out side of the plug where the wires are soldered to the 5 pins on either end? slide the shrink wrap back and dry these out too, WD is a moisture repelent and wont conduct electricity it self.
 
Hi there,

i´ve had the same problem some time ago now. The speed indicated in the CA is calculated using the hall sensors signals. If due to humidity these signals start failing then the speed´s indication is incorrect. In my case one of the halls sensors died on me causing some heavy vibrations of the rear wheel. :roll:

So what did i do. Simple, the original Crystalyte connector is not really waterproof. Mine was all oxidized inside when taken apart. So i got myself a high quality German connector. The following type " Subminiatur-Rundsteckverbinder Serie 712 Nennstrom: 3 A Polzahl: 5 712-99-0413-00-05 Binder " This thing is waterproof. Here´s a picture:

sn084p.jpg


Also the Anderson phase wire connectors crumbled on me. Apparently the plastic is rather thin and rather fragile. I never liked those huge connectors. So i got myself some RC-type ones capable of sustaining 150 Amps of continuous current. :D The whole thing is much slimmer and sticks together like glue.

2kr09j.jpg


Yep, after this mod the motor runs like clockwork again. The Bomber!! Still the hottest machine out there and just a pleasure to ride and ride and ride and ride and .... :D
 
Thank you both for this input, you were both correct. I cut back the heat shrink on the side wherenit had not been properly shrunk and then screws were covered in surface rust, there was moisture on all of the solder joints. I blew this out with an airline and then did the same on the other side but the problem was still there......I then noticed that the spring loaded collar that holds the joint together had failed and no longer held the little ball bearings in place therefore the joint could move with vibration.

I have now taped the joint, pulled the cover over and then taped that, it then got some large heat shrink and put that over the whole thing, whilst it was sticky I put cable ties on the ends as I find this seals when the heat shrink hardens.

I will cover the whole joint in submarine tape until I get one of those connectors in your link (thanks for that). I will just get the factory to confirm that they are happy this will not cause warranty issues. I will do the rc connectors at the same time as I do not like the glue on the large plug.

The test run proved that all was now ok....I am not sure it is is wishful thinking but the ca now reads 4300 w under full load, I am sure i have not seen it get over the high 3 before but it may have no link to the plug as it doesn't carry load, only signal. It may just be that I am now comfortable to look down when pul
Ing high loads whereas before I was holding on.?...

Appreciate the help, I will email the factory to let them know all is ok.
 
Hi justtoby,

Glad to hear you got the niggles sorted out, tbh im surprised they have anyconnectors that aren't water tight but it'll be right now, sorted on the boards as per ;)
You must be cockahoop now its here, any chance of some pics mate? Oh and if you dont mind me asking, what was the cost all ends up to the uk?

D
 
Well done on getting it fixed, i might replace mine with those water proof connectors aswell, i shall have to see what is easily available, i had considered replacing all of the motor cables with longer ones to get the joints into the frame or just to a less vulnerable position.
 
Stock connectors are generally well sealed. It's the heatshrink that may leak - I've seen that happen once.

Another good waterproof connector is made by Switchcraft, either EN3 series or the Micro-Con-X series I've used the EN3 series with great success, but haven't tried the other one. They are well priced at $10~15 ea.

Bullet style connectors for phase is a great idea, that is what I'm using as well.

Whatever you end up using think about the tyre change - it's best to have easy access for a quick flat fix.
 
I must admit, I never liked the idea of having the plugs on the outside. I did it slightly different by extending the phase and hall wires so that they would extend back into the battery compartment. Also used bullets to connect once inside the battery compartment. Not quite as convenient if you need to change a tire but it only takes a few minutes to take the battery cover off, remove the packs, and then disconnect.
 
deecanio said:
Hi justtoby,

Glad to hear you got the niggles sorted out, tbh im surprised they have anyconnectors that aren't water tight but it'll be right now, sorted on the boards as per ;)
You must be cockahoop now its here, any chance of some pics mate? Oh and if you dont mind me asking, what was the cost all ends up to the uk?

D
Click to expand...
Hi Deec, I was getting a bit down about it thinking it would need a new controller etc which would have taken time to sort but it was simple to fix for now and will order a new connector.

The bike cost me just on £7,000 as the exchange rate was rubbish. This includes shipping, import duties, vat on import, agent handling fees and the bike. I have spent about £400 more on locks, data tagging, gps tracker etc.

I will get some pics up soon, but have not been able to resize them by emailing to self so need to set up photo bucket.
 
If your running a windows OS google "image resizer", works a piece o piss, install, right click image, resize and then choose small for the boards.
Dont let the tiny issue get you down either mate, the bike is fine now and if it's any comfort im sure theres plenty of us who've done similair money and dont have a bomber :lol:
looking forward to some shots when you get time.

D
 
Thanks....all working now and the factory have been great...as usual.

The money does not bother me as I am happy with the value, I just don't want to be without it as I cannot keep away from riding it.

I was stuck I'm traffic the other day and just kept popping wheelies, the faces of the drivers were brilliant, I could have ridden past them but it was worth the wait
 
The hubs in the video are BMC V3, codename 'black lightning'. Rated to 1kW for the rear and something lesser for the front. A few pushed them over those rated limits and quickly discovered their limitations. AFAIK, the agreed overclock limit (for the rear) is 1,500W. So 8kW stated in the video is plain BS. Other than that geared hubs don't live long when taken off-road regularly.

Just so that you know :wink:
 
These are mountain bikes with a conversion, I have not read through but I doubt things like the suspension have been beefed up to handle the extra weight. They look like nice bikes though but for me they do not compare to the Bomber or Fighter as they are bespoke for the weight and power etc.

I imagine they will sell a few though but I do not think they will steal many Stealth orders.
 
Just had a look at those bikes, spec one up with batteries in the frame and the 20ah pack etc to get it to a similar spec to the bomber and it cosst well over $7500 :shock: and it is still not beefed up anywhere near the strength of the Stealth, I will stick to my bomber thank you! :D
 
I went tubeless with Stan's no tubes, so far so good

Tires are Crazy Bob's

I removed the tire strips, and used Gorilla tape to cover the holes, I added two layers just by the valve stems....no rubber liners used. I used Stan's Pesta valves and just tightened the nuts down well.

I had to use a 16 gram CO2 cartridge to get the tires to lock into the bead, a pump or a 12 gram would not do it.

F wheel had 0 leakage on the bead, no foam at all.

R wheel foamed at the bead for a while.....the R is a bitch to shake....my arms cramped up :)

I hit a few curbs without lifting the F wheel to see if it would burp....no burps prolly due to the locking wire bead.

Running at 40 PSI and the ride feels like 25....I could prolly go to 50 PSI and still have a smooth ride.

But time will tell if work well and every month you need to add 2oz with Stan's.

I used 1" wide Gorilla tape in place of the spoke tape....one problem is that they have very large holes in the rear wheel and I'm sorry I didn't dbl it up as its possible to blow the tape through the holes maybe. But that tape sticks very well so we will see.

Or better yet go with a wider tape and cut off any excess.
http://www.gorillaglue.com/tapes.aspx

I used the 44mm and tightened the nut down well but the shorter valves may have been better.

http://www.notubes.com/Universal-44mm-Tubeless-Road-Valve-Stem-Pair-P163C16.aspx

got out for a ride and observed a few changes.

Ride is great, very plush.

Tends to pop the F wheel far higher and EZ'er.

Now the odd unwelcome change....Tire noise. Both tires are loud without tubes to muffle the noise.....they sing like truck tires > 20 MPH.
 
#1 Reason....A better ride
#2 no more flats

The Bomber came with Hookworms that gave a plush ride but would cut on most anything. Way to many flats... I never seen tires cut so EZ on glass here in the city. So I put a set of Crazy Bobs on with Mr Tuffy tire liners. The ride was horrid and the rear tire would hop in a turn on bumps. So I pulled out the tire liners and tubes and converted.

Even tubeless the Bob's hop a very small amount unlike the Hookworms but the ride quality is great.

I need to do a speed test as tire noise could point to a speed loss, anything you create takes energy. Do they now roll with more resistance or less? More testing needed, speed and WH/mile.
 
I don't understand why you would no longer get a flat if they are filled with co2' I would have thought you needed foam in there or have I missed something?

Reason I ask is that I would like to find a way of not getting a flat too.

Bike is 2 weeks old now and done 80 miles, 60 off road and 20 on.

Question for you all: is it important to get the battery flat once in a while, I know they do not have a memory effect but I have never ridden the battery past 13amp hours used yet before charging...6 cycles in now. I have not recharged it this time around and plan to run it to dead next time...
 
Justtoby said:
I don't understand why you would no longer get a flat if they are filled with co2' I would have thought you needed foam in there or have I missed something?

Reason I ask is that I would like to find a way of not getting a flat too....
Click to expand...

The Co2 is used just to seat the tire on its bead....it needs to be done fast so a pump may not work.

I was running Slime in my tubes but thats only good to get you home many times.

Running tubeless you use "Stan's no tubes liquid"....watch the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs
 
Justtoby said:
Question for you all: is it important to get the battery flat once in a while, I know they do not have a memory effect but I have never ridden the battery past 13amp hours used yet before charging...6 cycles in now. I have not recharged it this time around and plan to run it to dead next time...
Click to expand...

Running the pack down to the BMS cutout is harder on the pack then re charging before the cutout is reached. That being said, running it down to the BMS cutout occasionally isn't going to make any real difference and at least lets you know what your true range is.

Running the pack down to the BMS cutout constantly though will more then likely reduce the number of available cycles.
 
Running the pack right down to cut out is something you have to do just to find out where your cut out is, untill you have done this you dont know where the bottom of your tank is. Mine hits the LVC in the CA before the BMS so i have raised the LVC in the CA 1 volt aswell so that if i do get stranded i can drop it back down to provide me with a little juice to help with the limp home as you dont get much warning when it is going to hit empty unless you are keeping an eye on the AH's. My best milage to date was while riding with the wife on her electric folding bike, we did 20 miles one day, i then charged hers overnight and we did another 24 miles the next day, i followed this up with a ride on my own and managed 64 miles over the 3 days, admittedly it was mostly on cycle paths at 17/18mph but still very impressive!! Riding alone at Bomber pace i still get upto 40 miles between charges and rarely run out now, 3 times i think in the early days (pedalled it 3 miles on 2 occasions!!) I still dont think my shunt value is quite correct which would meen my AH's are not recording actual quantities so i have also dropped the Amps limit in the CA a little as i think it is measuring a little on the low side. I must get a dc clamp meter and check the draw against the CA.
I am looking forward to the dark nights again, most of the areas off the beaten track around the city that i like to ride are often used as drinking venues by large groups of unsavoury types so i avoid them on the summer evenings, Dark nights and good lights, makes the winter a lot more fun!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

V
Fat tire E bike build help
Replies
8
Views
687
Valcourt24
V
M
Help w/electrifying Raleigh Rapid Carbon Steel 10-speed 1990's bike
Replies
4
Views
410
Chalo
Chalo
LTO2632
Ebike upgrade Bluvall SU8 - Help wanted
Replies
13
Views
644
ZeroEm
ZeroEm
neptronix
    • Doin' Science
Mid drive chain efficiency and longevity tips
2
Replies
44
Views
910
amberwolf
amberwolf
projectsr
    • Like
Custom Electric Dirt Bike Frame Development - Project SR
Replies
24
Views
1,873
projectsr
projectsr
Back
Top