E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[dh-paule]

if you are happy with your MT2 I should be happy with Avid Code, both are equal at power and weight... and since I have a new set of Avid brakes available (replaced at my mtb tandem by gustav m) I will mount them...

thanks for the link, will keep the formula as an option...

 

[Rix]

CD, in conjunction with the sealing you did and what Remf suggested, I would also find the lowest points in your battery compartment and drill a 2mm hole on eachside. If any water did get past all of your barriers, the drain holes would allow the water to exit the battery compartment. I like what you did though, gives me some good idears.

DH Paule, the front brakes not fitting may be an easy fix if you like the gator calipers. When I put the zocks on my Bomber, mounted the Gator caliper to the brake posts on the the fork. Even running a 224 mm disk, the posts were too long and wouldn't allow the calipler to be moved close enough to the fork leg to cover the disk properly. So I cust 15mm of each post, went to the hardware store and got some shorter screws, and it worked and worked great. If you are having the same problem that I was, take a pic of your front brake mount with the caliper and disk mounted, I should be able to determine if this is an option for your fork.

Rick

 

[dh-paule]

here is a picture, Fox40 + Gatorbrake

 

[morati]

For those of you running FOX forks and/or shocks, PUSH Industries will revalve your forks specifically for your bike, rider weight and riding stlye. I have used them in the past when I was racing MTB XC and it was well worth the cost. I believe they also do RockShox products.
http://www.pushindustries.com/2009/index.php?menu_id=1&Xtype=content&title=Home
They are located in Colorado, USA.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Cowardlyduck, nice work. I've sealed some of those spots but it looks like you've made it waterproof to a depth of 5 metres Seeing that you might be riding in riding in torrential deluges, the only other thing I could suggest is to scientifically drill the motor covers and spray the innards with Boeshield T9. That will allow water to drain and prevent the rust that I've seen in sealed motors.

Thanks Remf. I have actually drilled the side covers already. Was going to use T9, but couldn't get my hands on any at the time I wanted to do it so instead I used some of this on the windings and innards. Yet to see how it holds up over time, but it's silicone based so I think it should be fine. Its supposedly good up to 540C

http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/specialty-paints/high-temperature/hi-temp/

CD, in conjunction with the sealing you did and what Remf suggested, I would also find the lowest points in your battery compartment and drill a 2mm hole on eachside. If any water did get past all of your barriers, the drain holes would allow the water to exit the battery compartment. I like what you did though, gives me some good idears.

Yes, this thought had occurred to me also...yet to do it though. I was a bit hesitant to drill through my frame, but if you also reckon it would be a good idea I think I might.

The other water proofing idea I had, but haven't finalised yet was around the key switch. Although it looks sealed, it isn't and water can easily catch the key and dribble down into the switch. This has caused complete bike cut outs for me several times...well after the rain and water also.
So I found, what I think is the perfect addition, one of my daughters dummy (pacifier for the US guys) cover/caps. Only problem is, it sits just a little too high over the frame.

Any suggestions for getting it to sit flush with the frame...and stay in place?

Cheers

 

[marlboro180]

That is Awesome Duck! I'd run some Quad or Solar Seal around that thing ( pacifier ) and call it a day. Ive been through a switch or three this past year, and none of what Stealth provides is really any good. Cheap Chinese crap, for sure. They just sent me another replacement, which is a joke . The switch is on the top of the frame, open to the elements, and any rain. The contactors are as small as a frogs balls , and not worth a hoot, IMHO.

Speaking of this, if any of you experienced Bomber owners wanted a dead - on reliable ( okay , within reason ) battery pack, and a decent BMS, what are the choices you would make? Decent BMS, , and Oh, and a reliable charger would be a key as well.

Note - My Bomber, # 068, is running pouch- packs, and is on charger # 4. Now it is dead in the water for 1.5 months..... 2 weeks of which I am still waiting for real answers from StealthUSA. They say the BMS , a BestWay BWPB 052 is 280 bux, which seems okay, but cannot promise any availability to date....nor any info regarding a potential cell replacement. I might have one or two going bad, notwithstanding other issues.

I wanna gut this thing out, and make it reliable as hell....

I hope John reads this , FWIW.

 

[Greenlight]

I did not know a Stealth bike forum existed until a couple weeks ago. I'm on my second Bomber and expecting delivery of a Fighter any day.
I have alot of reading to do

 

[Greenlight]

This is my newest Bomber that I can not wait to put some miles on.

 

[dh-paule]

...
Any suggestions for getting it to sit flush with the frame...and stay in place?

Cheers

What about cut off something from the key ?
I am thinking about a waterproof switch, like this:

 

[Cowardlyduck]

What about cut off something from the key ?

Lol, my wife had the same idea, I might give it a go if other methods fail. Will try marlboro180's suggestion of an extra seal first though I think.

I am thinking about a waterproof switch, like this:

:lol: :lol: :lol: Hahahaha
Already got that one actually. See way back to page 39 of this thread.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&hilit=stealth&start=950

Cheers

 

[dh-paule]

did you use it as a main switch or as a 200W limiter ?

At my bomber Kepler installed a 3speed switch that is very helpful to not go to fast in public ) ...keep it stealth and below 30kph

But at the trail... speed3 and wot

 

[Rix]

DH Paule, looking at your pic, your front brake is such an easy fix. Buy yourself a Hayes V9 Disk Rotor, it will mount right on to your front hub and be perfect. The rotor will run you between 50-90 bucks US. Your current rotor is 203mm. The Hayes V9 rotor is 224mm. Your radius will increase by 10.5 mm, your diameter 21mm. Thats almost 1". Im telling you, the new disk will work like a charm. And you can retain your 8 Piston Hayes caliper, but make sure you get the Hayes V9 Disk Rotor.

Rick

 

[Cowardlyduck]

did you use it as a main switch or as a 200W limiter ?

Yeah I used mine just for the 200W mode and in the handle bar end.
I was considering using it for main power, since it's the right size for the existing ignition hole, but didn't like the lower security side of it.
Even though it's dead simple to hot wire the bike (I had to for the first few days when I got my Fighter cause I lost the key) I still like the slight added benefit of a keyed ignition for being able to leave the bike chained up at the shops for 15min or at my work all day.

Cheers

 

[remf]

My Bomber had a remote immobiliser, 200W mode and very cool green LED button switch when delivered. It was awesome though probably dangerous. You could be motoring along at 40 or 50 mph and accidentally hit the immobiliser in your pocket causing you to get a great but brief aerial view of the bike as you launch over the handlebars...not that I ever did. It was discontinued.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

My Bomber had a remote immobiliser, 200W mode and very cool green LED button switch when delivered. It was awesome though probably dangerous. You could be motoring along at 40 or 50 mph and accidentally hit the immobiliser in your pocket causing you to get a great but brief aerial view of the bike as you launch over the handlebars...not that I ever did. It was discontinued.

Haha :lol: :lol: :lol: I can just imagine explaining that in the emergency ward.

A proximity sensor immobiliser rigged inline with the ignition would make a lot of sense though...I might look into that one day.

Cheers

 

[dh-paule]

DH Paule, looking at your pic, your front brake is such an easy fix. ...

it is fixed already

 

[Rix]

Dh Paule, I see that. Lines up really nice. Keep the other in mind if you ever want to go back to your 8 piston gator brake.

Green light, I missed it earlier, your 2nd bomber and a fighter on the way. Thats just plain awesome. What did you do with your first bomber? BTW, welcome to the thread. 8)

Rick

 

[Rix]

Dh Paule, I see that. Lines up really nice. Keep the other in mind if you ever want to go back to your 8 piston gator brake.

Green light, I missed it earlier, your 2nd bomber and a fighter on the way. Thats just plain awesome. What did you do with your first bomber? BTW, welcome to the thread. 8)

Rick

 

[dh-paule]

Hi Rix, found a nice guy at hope regarding the 225mm disc... they will cut one for 44€ for me.
During discussion he mentioned the v2 vented disk as an option for heavy bikes + rider Now I will try the Avid Codes first... if there is fading or heat problem, I can change to hope or maybe back to gator.

At the moment I cant wait for the end of wintertime. Today we had -10C at 24march !!! record!

 

[Greenlight]

Thanks Rix,
With my first generation Bomber, I have approx 20k miles on it and its kind of worn out lol. Im on a quest to make it a 15 second quarter mile peddle bike running a x5405 and a Lyen controller
dh-paule, Im using the Hope V4 brakes with the floating rotors and can say they are night and day difference than the Gator 8 pistons. They feel alot sronger with better modulation and brake pressure. I ride my bikes DH at Whistler/Blackcomd mountain all summer long with no problems with brake fade

 

[Rix]

Green light, you are one of those North Shore guys aren't you? Have you ridden the shore on your bomber? Do you have a 5405? I have a 5403 and 5404, but I need a 5405 to complete my collection of hub motors. 8) Tell me about your Lyen controller setup. A 15 second quarter mile bomber, you are going to be throwing 150 volts and at least couple of hundred amps to get that (30KW min) with a 5405. I know the 5405 is a very robust motor, but a 30KW burst will probably be pushing it going past 15 seconds. Of course this is all speculation because I don't have clue how that motor would handle that kind of current Wheelie bar will be a must if you dont extend the swingarm.

DH Paule, I just got back from Idaho, two days were nice and the rest was snowy and cold. On a better note, Nevada is getting warmer now. Hit 70F a couple of times. Great riding weather. Been a long winter. Of coures I am preaching to the choir. I don't know anything or having any experience with the Avid codes. Can't tell you how that will work out. Can't have them fading out on you though. They look to be light and pretty. Let me know how you like them.

Rick

 

[ManxE]

Hope are Dope! Gatorbrakes are no longer made and spare parts are generally not available and subject to far eastern forgeries - I bought some pads for my Bomber 8-pistons and they were forgeries (Taiwanese Ebay company called 'Ebike'). Its a shame Stealth were marketing them as an (expensive) upgrade option when they were discontinued and replacement parts unavailable. Not bad brakes at all though - saved me from serious harm quite a few times but now pads a worn and I might as well throw them away unless anyone can recommend me a source for replacement pads?

So .... I'm now thinking of moving up to Hope and emailed the company after hearing good reports here. Seem to be a really good CNC company staffed by enthusiasts.
Any other recommendations would be gratefully received....

 

[Rix]

Gatorbrakes are no longer made and spare parts are generally not available and subject to far eastern forgeries - I bought some pads for my Bomber 8-pistons and they were forgeries

Manxe, does that go for the 6 pot Gators as well? I got a couple sets of pads for mine from Darin Brin but when they wear out, I may have to go to Hope/Hayes/Formula, or whatever if I can get replacement pads. Also, the caliper pistons have been known to leak, I have rebuilt a few before, are parts available for gators to do that? I haven't ridden Hope brakes but have ridden the hell out of Hayes and Formula. I can say that running Hayes Stroker Ace with V9 Rotor will stop just about anything that pedals down the steepest hills with no fade. If I replace the Gators, it will probably be with the Hayes Stroker Ace. But those hope Tech Evo4 look so sexy. Have you used those? If so, do they stop better than the Strokers?

 

[Rix]

Nevermind, the www.gatorbrake.com is no longer active. the www.gatorbrake.eu under the shop portion is written in a language I don't understand. But it doesn't lead to any product purchases either.

 

[morati]

Been a Formula fan for the last eight or nine years after having owned three different versions of their XC brakes. Never had a problem with any of them and I like the modulation they give. That being said I really like the CNC work of the Hopes. I only hear good things on the performance of the new stock brakes on the Bomber (Magura MT-2) but if I find them lacking, I'll make the switch to either Hope or Formula again. Don't have any serious climbs/descents where I live but we do have miles upon miles of singletrack style trails which are still mostly covered in snow and ice as its been a wet and cold winter here (3 degrees C here today). Looking forward to the milder temps!