Allex
100 MW
Nah, the bike looks weird TV. Go back to the chrome bars. Much better especially with your seat.
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Rix
100 TW
TV,
The chrome does blend more with your seat. And you are correct, handle bars can dramatically change the appearance of a motorcycle/bicycle, Stealth Bomber. That said, you should look for a bar with a high bend, and a cross bar. The bar on the Triumph Scrambler comes to mind.
The chrome does blend more with your seat. And you are correct, handle bars can dramatically change the appearance of a motorcycle/bicycle, Stealth Bomber. That said, you should look for a bar with a high bend, and a cross bar. The bar on the Triumph Scrambler comes to mind.
Rix said:
I know what you're talking about, and they probably would look pretty good, but, there's always a but isn't there? I'd like to stay with a 31.8 clamp dia, and alloy too. That's what the real rub is. 31.8 bars are darn limited unless you're looking for DH bars.
After riding across town today, I found these beach cruiser bars to be ok, but unfortunately they're not really what I'm looking for. A near miss. They sure are comfy though, but a little too casual. Bombers get up to serious speed on the street, and these bars are a little too laid back. Their riding position is not particularly alert. Actually I like the way the stock bars look plenty fine, but they're just a little too low for me. I found a new bar that's very similar to the stockers, but they have a 3 inch rise. I wish I could find 4 inch, but I think I could live with 3 inch. There's also clamps that angle higher that I might think about. I do realize most of you guys have your seat 9 miles high, and aren't bellyaching about low bars, but that's just me.
http://www.amazon.com/Atomlab-Pimplite-riser-bars-31-8/dp/B00F567412/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417906759&sr=1-1
Rix
100 TW
The pimp lite would be pimpin on your ride, I would go with that anodized red as well, it will look good with your stock Bomber color.
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:Brute said:
You guys need to be careful about putting ideas in my head.
I missed that comment from Brute, hell yes bannana seat and a sissy bar. :lol:
Allex said:Proper, why did woman complain in the first place?
Your bottleneck on the bike is the battery. If you go to a more powerfull controller your battery will sag even more.
Here is my new spare charger in the middle, the stock one is on the left.
The Weight of this 1800Watt PSU is 1.5Kg compared to the 1,9Kg of the stock 500W charger and the form factor is much nicer to if you want to have it in a backpack.
With the stock charger at 6Amps I need 3 hours to fill stock 18Ah Pack.
With Eaton spitting out 21Amps the stock pack can theoretically be filled in just 51minutes.
Is there a downside to using the higher AMP charger?
proper159
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2013
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- 714
Allex said:Proper, why did woman complain in the first place?
Your bottleneck on the bike is the battery. If you go to a more powerfull controller your battery will sag even more.
Here is my new spare charger in the middle, the stock one is on the left.
The Weight of this 1800Watt PSU is 1.5Kg compared to the 1,9Kg of the stock 500W charger and the form factor is much nicer to if you want to have it in a backpack.
With the stock charger at 6Amps I need 3 hours to fill stock 18Ah Pack.
With Eaton spitting out 21Amps the stock pack can theoretically be filled in just 51minutes.
Man, that would be the dream to use the charger that you're using with 35 ah battery. I do need another charger and it does take up a lot of space in my bag. Are you selling those at all?
Emmett
10 kW
1abv said:
Thanks for sharing the vid. I agree with your comments and can offer some info which might boost the fun factor.
Take off: I think your plan to get a softer rear spring is spot on. How the bike compresses into the face of a jump has a large effect over the pitch of the bike in the air. Especially if the jump face has a kicker on it. In your case, like you say, your rear spring is way too firm relative to the front. Also your fork lacks compression damping which makes the problem worse.
Landing: Bottoming resistance is not achieved solely by firmer spring rates. Certainly it's not about spring pre-load. Some fork designs use a progressive air spring to help resist bottoming, but the primary solution for reduced bottoming is compression damping. It looks like your for has very little, if any. What model of fork is it?
Your seat is way too high for that kind of riding. Which has a lot to do with your "wonky" body position on approach and in the air. Unless you are pedalling long distance and need to sit down while pedalling, then there is no benefit from having the seat so high. Your legs are the suspension and not the motor. Get a dropper post, or cut half your fixed post off and drop the seat as low as it can go.
If you drop that seat out of the way, then you might want to consider some shoes with ankle protection, and also some knee guards. So you can clamp and control the bike with your lower legs.
1abv said:[youtube]cAUkB0StOZA[/youtube]
Vid of the mini track that I was at.. short but sweet. (next time ill bring my mounted cam for riding with my bud on his moto)..bombers and mud=
You cant see the really muddy section in the vid....
Hit 16.8amps I noticed that at the end of the ride the power cut off in the upper range. I didn't look at the watts but im guessing that there is some BMS protection for using too much power when the batt is low?
P.S. music is a shout out to all the Aussies....Machine Gun Fellatio..
I like this video a lot compared to many of the other bomber vids. What's great about it is, we actually get to see the bike, and rider, in action from a vantage point where it's easy to see. Handle bar views get old fast. A 15 minute handle bar video usually puts me to sleep after less than 1 minute.
Yeah, Emmett knows what he's talking about. Drop those seats peoples. Motor bicycles don't need high seats. High seats are just to prevent repetitive knee injury from pedaling a regular bicycle hard.
It seems like motor bicycles, especially Stealth's, attract 2 entirely different diverse groups. Vastly experienced riders, and beginners. The experienced riders adapt to Stealth's quickly and usually don't have any problems. For the beginners, it's a different story. Beginners make the mistake of thinking since it's only a motor bicycle, it's a natural for someone without experience. That's always a big mistake whether talking about a gas bike, or a Stealth. How many times has a beginner bought a Bomber, only to end overwhelmed by the power, and overall riding experience, and end up having a bummer? Stealth's are the ZX10s of the electric bicycle world, and are not well suited for beginners.
It seems like motor bicycles, especially Stealth's, attract 2 entirely different diverse groups. Vastly experienced riders, and beginners. The experienced riders adapt to Stealth's quickly and usually don't have any problems. For the beginners, it's a different story. Beginners make the mistake of thinking since it's only a motor bicycle, it's a natural for someone without experience. That's always a big mistake whether talking about a gas bike, or a Stealth. How many times has a beginner bought a Bomber, only to end overwhelmed by the power, and overall riding experience, and end up having a bummer? Stealth's are the ZX10s of the electric bicycle world, and are not well suited for beginners.
QMS
1 kW
Hi guys, here's a few pics of an earlier model Bomber we fully serviced and fitted new brakes, new MRP Groove 200 shocks, Highrise bars, and a heavy duty MC rear rim and tyre. After the shock upgrade and new rear wheel this one is just about the best Bomber I've ever ridden (and I've ridden a bunch of them). Over jumps and your general urban terrain the landing characteristics are "outstanding". She just lands dead! "Very tight unit".
Emmett said:
Thanks everyone for the comments, Glad you liked the vid. having someone else there to shoot it makes it so much more fun to watch.
Emmett
I'ts a 888cr fork that im actually sending to Marzocchi because the stiction stupid. They said they would actually fix it under warranty. Your correct about the compression. I have it backed out pretty far. I didn't change it when I rode here. This was the first time I rode it in a "track type" situation. Next time I ride there I am going to make adjustments to the front and back suspension. I've tried making adjustments to preload/compression/rebound in the past for trail riding and found that I like it softer for that kind of riding which does not work here. I don't want to outfit my bike for track riding riding unless im going to be doing it with great frequency. I may occasionally ride a track and live with it (the seat post) for now. I figure if I do ride like that a dropper post is in my future.
The knee pad / shoe thing has been vexing me. I was actually going to post up and see what knee pads people like for pedaling/ protection. My moto ones are way to bulky for that. Saw that dianese makes some pretty sweet looking ones w good reviews...I looked up shoes thinking the same thing. Ankle protection would be good and was very surprised to see that downhill bicycle people are wearing flat bottom sneakers with no ankle protection at all. Anyway I'll go back and shoot some vid there specifically trying different suspension settings and bike settings w a lap timer.
So what are you guys wearing for shoes and knee protection???
Allex
100 MW
1abv: depends on the battery and how many connections you have in parallel. As long as you don't brake the maximum charging rate of your cells you are fine.
Proper, Yep they are for sale in the new sales section.
Proper, Yep they are for sale in the new sales section.
Emmett
10 kW
1abv said:
With no tools, it takes less than one minute to change your settings for mini MX vs trails. For sure the same setup doesn't work everywhere. For my Fighter on mini MX tracks I always increase fork spring preload 4mm, increase fork damping (comp and reb bleed control is a common clicker in my DNMs), and I increase rear shock high speed damping compression to max. I have the very nice X-Fusion Vector HLR coil shock. The raised front end reduces front dive, tuck and turn in, so I can come into bermed corners under hard brakes then rail the berms without oversteer and getting on the power early when front brake is still on a little. But for tight rough trails I go back to my base settings, else the bike is too harsh and wont turn.
I hate high seats with a passion. If I run the battery flat, then I just get off, raise the seat 5" and get back on and pedal. I cut my carbon seat post in half within about 30 mins after pulling the bike out of the crate.
On my knees I wear Kali downhill pads. The shin padding goes down to my boots. They are awesome. On my feet I have some cheap but light weight trekking boots. The ankle padding is great. Try to get flexible soles with some feel. It helps you to locate a pedal when you get a bit out of shape. I think trekking boots have a good mix of ankle support and movement.
Rix
100 TW
[/quote]
Yah Quigly, that Bomber looks sweet. And as you found out, that moto rear tire changes the confidence factor immensely. Your customer will no doubt love it.
EverFaster
1 µW
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2013
- Messages
- 4
Hello 1abv,
>So what are you guys wearing for shoes and knee protection???
Great question. This is something I've been looking into closely as I've been riding my Bomber harder and harder and taking it on motocross tracks recently (crazy fun!). For shoes, I'm not coming up with anything good, and I too have looked at what the downhillers are using. For knee protection, however, I've been pretty happy with these: http://g-form.com/index.php/pro-x-knee-pads.html
They are very flexible and give good protection when testing them (I haven't crashed bad yet, but when smashing my joints against concrete walls, they are perfect). They are light, small, flexible, and seem to work great with impact. I wear Fox body armor also. The shoes are something I'm still working on and am interested in what others have to say.
Great video, btw,
EverFaster
>So what are you guys wearing for shoes and knee protection???
Great question. This is something I've been looking into closely as I've been riding my Bomber harder and harder and taking it on motocross tracks recently (crazy fun!). For shoes, I'm not coming up with anything good, and I too have looked at what the downhillers are using. For knee protection, however, I've been pretty happy with these: http://g-form.com/index.php/pro-x-knee-pads.html
They are very flexible and give good protection when testing them (I haven't crashed bad yet, but when smashing my joints against concrete walls, they are perfect). They are light, small, flexible, and seem to work great with impact. I wear Fox body armor also. The shoes are something I'm still working on and am interested in what others have to say.
Great video, btw,
EverFaster
Rix said:
IMO, those pro wheels rims are not ideal as the spokes are bending at the nipples because the rim hole angles are desingned fit a smaller hub. Holems MMP rims offer a front and rear version which i assume would have diffrent angles to suit a hubs such as a crystalyte or cromotor or classic front MTB hubs.
DunkenKBliths
1 kW
Two years of constant use (12,000kms) and had this happen in the last few days...
Decided to see ho much juice was left in the batteries as a "state of the battery" comparison
so did a good 20 mins of hard riding up hills as fast as possible to run the batteries down
Anyway the following day bike died completely......on discovery found the Anderson Plug had melted...
I put this down to a poor connection which would have caused a build up of heat...(and melted the plug, causing the connection to "stop")
Thanks to JAYCAR in town fixed the whole thing at the office in about an hour...(upgraded the plug to a 120A version)
the original is 50A so with the bike putting out about 72A that 50A was never going to survive some hard core battery use !!!
Decided to see ho much juice was left in the batteries as a "state of the battery" comparison
so did a good 20 mins of hard riding up hills as fast as possible to run the batteries down
Anyway the following day bike died completely......on discovery found the Anderson Plug had melted...
I put this down to a poor connection which would have caused a build up of heat...(and melted the plug, causing the connection to "stop")
Thanks to JAYCAR in town fixed the whole thing at the office in about an hour...(upgraded the plug to a 120A version)
the original is 50A so with the bike putting out about 72A that 50A was never going to survive some hard core battery use !!!
Emmett
10 kW
Interesting. Seems like good preventative maintenance would be some electrical contact cleaner on the plug terminals. To at least get to the plug's rated Amps. I'm going to do this. Even if my 2014 bike has an updated plug. Thanks.DunkenKBliths said:
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