Ebike motor/battery compatibility question PLEASE HELP

[chris1984]

I can't figure out which connector is compatible to the motor I want to get. Can someone please help me? Heres a link for the motor kit I would like. Also the controller that comes with it is model SW-900.
https://www.amazon.com/Voilamart-Conversion-Intelligent-Controller-Restricted/dp/B06XPF9NK5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494054449&sr=8-1&keywords=0611165985950
Also Im attaching a picture of the different connectors which are all numbered. So if you could please tell which # I need to get with this motor I would greatly appreciate it!!

 

[NickF23]

can't see from the pictures. The product number you give is for the display not the controller. You could just buy 4 anderson powerpoles and crimp them or sodder them on yourself on both the battery and controller side.

 

[dogman dan]

Generally, those shitty kits come with a sketchy battery connector on the controller, its a ring terminal and a cheesy block, or the scooter plug with some F terminals inside.

What ever it has, cut it off and install a solid connector. Most popular usually 4 mm gold plated bullets from the hobby store, or Anderson power poles. #2 is andersons

Some like deans, or some other RC plug, but I tend to run andersons myself, since you can replace a set out in the boonies, if you have a spare and a crimper on you.

Do not use 1, 3, or 7.

 

[chris1984]

Hey, I really appreciate the help!! I don't really know what I'm doing. I'm not dumb but this isn't my wheelhouse. Honestly, I'm trying to get back on my feet, I don't have much $, I need to get the work and yeah I'm out in the boonies too. So I actually did get the kit because it was cheap and you're right, it is pretty shitty. There is no clear branding of who makes this stuff! Actually, in the picture of the tire online it said, "High Power" and the one they sent says, "Power Circle". The controller bag's also different and there's not even a damn wire hole (you have to leave the thing unzipped).The disc brake that was supposed to be included is MIA. Plus the user manual doesn't even have clear pictures that identify the controller wires.

Anyway, I'm definitely going to connect the battery with the Anderson power poles like you explained because it came with the #3 connectors. So I'm a little worried because I got a 52v 20 ah battery and the controller says 48v. Can it handle the higher the voltage? Will it just get wasted or how does that work? I need the bike to get me pretty far so I wanted a big battery. And does anyone know by looking at this picture where to find a better installation manual? Nothing comes up when I type in the #'s on the bottom (which I assume is the model) into google...
THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!

 

[d8veh]

If you want to fit directly, it's connector 7. They're probably adequate, but not the best.

If you can solder, use XT90 connectors. They're easy to solder. Andersons are not so easy unless you're used to them.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l2632.R2.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xxt90.TRS0&_nkw=xt90+connector&_sacat=2562

 

[dogman dan]

The kit should handle up to an absolute maximum of 63v, when the battery is charged. 52v pack charges to about 58v, so no problem.

Good luck, even if e bikes turn out more expensive than you wanted, still cheaper than most used cars under a thou.

Cheapest vehicle I have owned lately though, was a Yamaha 400 cc scooter. 12 cents a mile. E-bikes typically have cost me about 25 cents a mile. Buying batteries usually, but if you ride a lot, you spend a surprising amount on brake shoes and tires.

just keep up with re tightening spokes as they loosen, but not over tighten, and the motor should last you many thousands of miles. if the controller blows, replacements can be under 50 bucks.

 

[chris1984]

Thanks for the advice! I wouldn't have thought the spokes would come loose like that. I'm pretty green to this. This is my first ebike. Now if I could just get the seller to answer me about the controller wire diagram.. The manual actually has 4 different versions and none of them even have the same amount of wires as the one they sold me!! You wouldn't be able to tell from looking at them would you? I took a picture I started labeling them before I realized they didn't match up. BS right?

 

[dogman dan]

Good spokes don't stretch so much, and loosen up. Cheap ones sometimes do.

I've seen the cheap wheel last less than 20 miles, and I've personally run similarly cheap wheels for years.

The cheap wheel will generally loosen up a lot in the first few miles, then after a few hundred, settle in and be less likely to loosen up.

 

[amberwolf]

FWIW, the spokes arent' usually stretching and causing a problem.

What usually happens is one of two things:

Either the gauge of spoke is too thick, and so there is not enough tension to stretch the spokes *enough*. Then, as the rim changes shape (becuase of insufficient tension to hold it round) the nipples may be able to rotate and unscrew, making the spokes looser, or the elbows of the spokes break because they are being flexed back and forth.

Or, the spokes are too thick, and the wheelbuilder does put enough tension on them, which them breaks the insufficiently-strong rim with cracks around the nipple holes that then release the tension on the spokes, and allow the same problems as not having them tensioned enough in the first place.


I've had plenty of cheap spokes on regular bike wheels (wtih crappy rims) too, but they are thin enough to be tensioned correctly for that rim without breaking the rim, and that keeps the problems from happening. Whenever they aren't (or can't be) tensioned, that's when I have wheels that break.

(or when a rim gets bent enough from some impact to either over- or under-tension spokes, resulting in the previously-noted problems).

 

[d8veh]

Thanks for the advice! I wouldn't have thought the spokes would come loose like that. I'm pretty green to this. This is my first ebike. Now if I could just get the seller to answer me about the controller wire diagram.. The manual actually has 4 different versions and none of them even have the same amount of wires as the one they sold me!! You wouldn't be able to tell from looking at them would you? I took a picture I started labeling them before I realized they didn't match up. BS right?

Is that a picture of your controller? If so, the wires are more or or less standard. You know that you need a LED control panel to go with it?

 

[EZgo]

I can't figure out which connector is compatible to the motor I want to get. Can someone please help me? Heres a link for the motor kit I would like. Also the controller that comes with it is model SW-900.
https://www.amazon.com/Voilamart-Conversion-Intelligent-Controller-Restricted/dp/B06XPF9NK5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494054449&sr=8-1&keywords=0611165985950
Also Im attaching a picture of the different connectors which are all numbered. So if you could please tell which # I need to get with this motor I would greatly appreciate it!!

This a link with pictures for a Lyen Controller that I'm using. It's nicely labeled showing which connector goes where. Unfortunately there is no real standard for these things but to date my experience has been that they are all similar.

Hopefully it will be of some use to you.

http://lyen.com/Manual/Mark_II

 

[docw009]

From your ebay ad.


-Your LCD at #2 should match up easily. It's the only 5 pin connector.
-Throttle #12 and PAS #4 are three pin connectors, but will have different genders so they should be matched.
-I would expect that the motor has three bullet connectors with the same colors as #7, #9, and #10. Plug them in by color.
-Hall sensors look to be on #13. Motor will have similar rectangular connector. Colors should match by position..red, black, yellow, blue, and green. Sometimes you get a white too, which is for the speedometer.
-Brake levers #8 and #10 are easy, two pins. Same wire colors, which will be different from the other two pin connector #1.
-The power #5 and #6, red and black? Red is positive unless it was happy hour at the controller factory.
-#1 is not important.
-#3 is a speed limiter. Connect only if you want speed limiting. They are usually blue wires?

Usually, kit builders have mismatches when they use a different throttle or a PAS, as controllers don't standardize the connectors nor the wire positions. But with a kit, we hope the throttle and PAS match.

If your controller differs from this picture, post a better pic than you did prior.

 

[chris1984]

Oh wow thanks docw009! Just yesterday I actually got the supplier to label the picture I sent them finally after a lot of back and forth emails... I'll post it. Ahaa I finally figured out how to put the picture up instead of the link. I think I should be good to go as far as where each wire goes. I'm just waiting on the bike to get here so I can slap the motor and everything on. I still have to put some Anderson power poles on it tho.

 

[d8veh]

Did you order the LCD or LED control panel that goes with the controller?