Effects of winding changes?

John in CR

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Looking at Astroflight's motor data changing the turn count of a brushless motor seems to have results that are easy to predict http://www.astroflight.com/pdfs/3210WEB.pdf.

Their charts show proportional relationships of turn counts with Kv, no load current, current at maximum torque, but they compare them all at the same rpm, torque, power, and efficiency. They just vary current and voltage inversely. Maybe I've read something wrong into some of Biff's posts, but it seems like some of the performance relationships don't correlate as cleanly as Astro indicates.

I bring this up because I want to do something different. I want to free a smaller direct drive hubmotor from it's wheel, and rewind it to a Kv that is 3 to 4 times higher, with the intention of running it at much higher power and using a simple and quiet chain reduction to the wheel. I'll ventilate the motor so the extra heat won't be an issue. Easily obtainable and cheap controllers aren't available in high enough voltage or I'd just skip the rewind and triple the voltage.

One question I have is about saturation of the stator. If a stator with 8 turns on it's coils reaches saturation at 50A, does it require 100A for the same motor at 4 turns (assuming equal copper fill)?

Is it reasonable to think that the rewound to a high Kv hubmotor is likely to be more efficient? It's my understanding that due to their low speed operation the majority of a hub motor's losses are copper losses, and I get a double benefit of both thicker wire on each turn and a shorter length of wire. That tells me that cutting the Kv in half reduces copper losses to 1/4th, so even if iron losses double due to double the rpm, I should come out ahead since the iron losses were smaller to begin with.

Am I choosing a good motor to try this with, because it's different from my other hubmotors? The other hubbies have a higher slot count than the number of magnets, which seems to be the trend for newer hubbies like 9C and the new Xlytes with 51 slots and 46 magnets. This older model motor has 40 magnets and 36 slots on the stator. It has a longer stator too, with the stack of laminations 40mm thick, so the end copper as a % is less than a motor like a 9C that has only a 27mm thick stator, but a larger diameter to make its torque. The main reason for the choice is this motor will be only 6.75" in diameter once I cut off the spoke flanges, a full 2" smaller than the 9C without flanges, but capable of the same power in-wheel.

Other than the physical difficulty of a rewind, are there any pitfalls to the approach?

John
 
Hi John. All the motor gurus are asleep, probably. I'm not a motor guru but know something about them. And learning all the time. Skipped that part of Engineering school, concentrated on computers instead. Seemed more interesting at the time...

Yes on saturation vs amp-turns being constant. At least to first order.

On motor efficiency, you are not changing many things that affect efficiency. Laminations, stator materials, magnet quality, spacing, number of poles, etc. I suspect that above a certain RPM the hubmotor's efficiency will fall off and you can't fix that by rewinding it. It will be mostly RPM centric.

But the experts will straighten us out when they awaken.
 
Sorry if you got confused by some of my other posts, but basically yes, the relationship is pretty much as straight forward as Asto Claim. Put in 2x the turns, you get 2x the voltage at the same RPM, and it takes 1/2 the current to produce the same torque.

Like Allan said, you aren't changing anything that will change the motors efficiency, so don't expect the efficiency to change very much, unless you change the mass of copper you put in the stator. More copper = higher efficiency.

John in CR said:
It's my understanding that due to their low speed operation the majority of a hub motor's losses are copper losses, and I get a double benefit of both thicker wire on each turn and a shorter length of wire. That tells me that cutting the Kv in half reduces copper losses to 1/4th, so even if iron losses double due to double the rpm, I should come out ahead since the iron losses were smaller to begin with.

You are right about the resitance becomeing about 1/4, but you are forgetting that copper loss is Current^2 * resistance (current squared times resistance). With 1/2 the turns, you need 2x the current to get the same torque, so your loss equation becomes (2*current*2*current)*resistance/4 which simplifies down to 4/4*current*current * resistance, which puts you right back to where you started.

More turns will end up with higher system efficiency, because it will reduce the current at a given RPM and Torque, which should reduce the loss in the motor controller slightly. I have worked on this quite a bit, and it really does make a difference, but probably not that noticable without sensitive measurement equipment.

The other big killer, which you talked about is the core loss as frequency increases. I don't know what lamination thickness these hub motors use, but it if is larger than 0.35mm you will start running into big problems when your electrical frequency goes over about 300Hz. With a 40 or 46 magnet rotor, and 0.35mm laminations, you could expect to get up to about 2000 - 2500 RPM before you start having heat problems with core loss.

The Werner Eck motor (I think this is his design) is a 42 pole / 36 tooth motor which is rated to 2500RPM (and 13.5kW) http://www.flytec.ch/e-drive/hdp13_data.htm
and is very much like a hub motor that was re-wound.
-ryan
 
From LFP:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=25965#p375669

Anytime you get the chance to choose, WYE can't have recirculating currents in it because it's only series connections. Delta will always have recirculating currents, which just add to heat and higher no-load and waste power. However, it strongly depends on the configuration and winding to determine if the recirculating currents will be an issue or not, in some cases it's so minor it's a fraction of a percent, and in other cases it can be quite bad.

Your inductance on that motor should be at least 3-4x higher than it was before, and resistance should be about 7-10x higher, so it should be a kitten on controllers now. Should run easily from about anything, and should find sync a lot easier with a sensorless controller even from the higher BEMF it generates for a given rotor speed.
 
Biff,

Thanks for the explanations. I should just forget an efficiency increase, unless typical hubmotors don't reach their best efficiency because they run too slow. One thing about the Astro chart is that it's all at a fixed rpm and power. Is it possible a hubmotor, which typically runs with a voltage to reach a few hundred rpm under load, needs a much higher voltage to reach its true most efficient operation for that amount of current. Maybe they really need to turn 1000rpm or 1500rpm to reach their optimum power and efficiency levels, but the limitations of being in-wheel prevents it. In support of that concept, before my computer crash I had factory test reports for the motor I use at both 48V and 60V, and the 60V test showed a peak efficiency of 87% vs 85% in the 48V test.

My goal here isn't better efficiency, or to design a better motor, just use one in a better way and get more power out of a smaller motor without giving up the dependability or near silence of a hubmotor. Thud and others are attacking the issue from one end of the spectrum, and I'm attacking it from the other end. Once you get a hubmotor out of the wheel, then voltage is the real limiting factor, or I'd just take the smallest hubmotor possible and run it at 200-300V.

I'd really like to stay below 100V, because there are better controller options there, but the bike I hope to have running this week is testing the fringes without a rewind. I took a 7 turn 9C and trimmed about 1.5lbs off its perimeter by cutting off its spoke flanges that tapered down to a wider root. I plan to run it at a voltage in the mid 140's fresh off the charger, giving it a no load speed above 1300rpm. Even at only 50A, that's over 7kw input. Greater efficiency would be a nice by-product, but for me the tangible gain of the higher rpm is that my centrifugal ventilation will work much better, so I should have no problem running that current even on a continuous basis. The chain reduction will give me an effective wheel size of only 13.5", so the motor and controller should see a light load. Extrapolating results from the Ebikes.ca simulator the motor will hit peak power at only 29mph, and max efficiency at 40mph, so it should end up a pretty good combination of hill climbing and speed.

If I tried to do that with a 12 turn 9C, it wouldn't work because the 5 strands of copper couldn't handle it. Being a torque wind, I have that same kind of limitation with the smaller diameter Grubee motor that I have, so I'd like to rewind it for a much higher Kv for high power mid-drive use.

John

Biff said:
Sorry if you got confused by some of my other posts, but basically yes, the relationship is pretty much as straight forward as Asto Claim. Put in 2x the turns, you get 2x the voltage at the same RPM, and it takes 1/2 the current to produce the same torque.

Like Allan said, you aren't changing anything that will change the motors efficiency, so don't expect the efficiency to change very much, unless you change the mass of copper you put in the stator. More copper = higher efficiency.

John in CR said:
It's my understanding that due to their low speed operation the majority of a hub motor's losses are copper losses, and I get a double benefit of both thicker wire on each turn and a shorter length of wire. That tells me that cutting the [edit] number of turns in half reduces copper losses to 1/4th, so even if iron losses double due to double the rpm, I should come out ahead since the iron losses were smaller to begin with.

You are right about the resitance becomeing about 1/4, but you are forgetting that copper loss is Current^2 * resistance (current squared times resistance). With 1/2 the turns, you need 2x the current to get the same torque, so your loss equation becomes (2*current*2*current)*resistance/4 which simplifies down to 4/4*current*current * resistance, which puts you right back to where you started.

More turns will end up with higher system efficiency, because it will reduce the current at a given RPM and Torque, which should reduce the loss in the motor controller slightly. I have worked on this quite a bit, and it really does make a difference, but probably not that noticable without sensitive measurement equipment.

The other big killer, which you talked about is the core loss as frequency increases. I don't know what lamination thickness these hub motors use, but it if is larger than 0.35mm you will start running into big problems when your electrical frequency goes over about 300Hz. With a 40 or 46 magnet rotor, and 0.35mm laminations, you could expect to get up to about 2000 - 2500 RPM before you start having heat problems with core loss.

The Werner Eck motor (I think this is his design) is a 42 pole / 36 tooth motor which is rated to 2500RPM (and 13.5kW) http://www.flytec.ch/e-drive/hdp13_data.htm
and is very much like a hub motor that was re-wound.
-ryan
 
I like this project! Can I suggest a blast shield around the motor? I have a burnt nine c ready to copy your plan John. I would send it to you but im sure its too expensive. Plus I really want to rewind it myslf!!

Make it SCREAM
 
hydro-one said:
I like this project! Can I suggest a blast shield around the motor? I have a burnt nine c ready to copy your plan John. I would send it to you but im sure its too expensive. Plus I really want to rewind it myslf!!

Make it SCREAM

I'm starting with a modded but not rewound 9C to run at close to 150V. I got the rotor well balanced, and my no load test showed no whistling of my ventilation holes, and today I think I resolved my chain alignment and tension issues. It was more difficult because I plan to use regen and silence is a priority, so idlers and tensioners were out. I made my swingarm narrower than I should have, and I my idea of just clamping the motor in a proper position for chain alignment and tension was a no go, but I think I solved all the issues and hope to launch it tomorrow. I'm looking for 5kw+ with a 12 fet high voltage controller, and maybe as high as 9-10kw with a ventilated 18fet. :mrgreen: Now all I need is a 250V controller and I won't have to do a rewind. :shock:

John (Mr. Fingers Crossed)
 
Didn't want to start a new thread but quick question about motor turns.

Trying to understand how all this works, but what I keep reading is that a higher turn motor is not more powerful.

Question:

Assume I have identical motors, except one 4t and one 5t.

When climbing a very steep hill, the 5T motor will just make it to the top at full throttle.

If I then switch the motor to a 4T, everything else being the same, will the 4T make it to the top at full throttle?
 
Offroader said:
Didn't want to start a new thread but quick question about motor turns.

Trying to understand how all this works, but what I keep reading is that a higher turn motor is not more powerful.

Question:

Assume I have identical motors, except one 4t and one 5t.

When climbing a very steep hill, the 5T motor will just make it to the top at full throttle.

If I then switch the motor to a 4T, everything else being the same, will the 4T make it to the top at full throttle?

Depends on the controller.
 
It is easy for the controller to make lower voltage, that's like letting off the throttle a little. Making higher current puts more demands on the semiconductors, capacitors and and current pathways. It requires a controller with more current capacity, or operates the same controller at a higher heat load, or it hits the motor (phase) current limit and the controller cuts back the power and the motor will have less power.
 
Biff said:
Sorry if you got confused by some of my other posts, but basically yes, the relationship is pretty much as straight forward as Asto Claim. Put in 2x the turns, you get 2x the voltage at the same RPM, and it takes 1/2 the current to produce the same torque.

Like Allan said, you aren't changing anything that will change the motors efficiency, so don't expect the efficiency to change very much, unless you change the mass of copper you put in the stator. More copper = higher efficiency.


Would it make sense to do a winding job with litz wires over regular copper wires? IIRC you get more copper in less space and more current ability from using litz wire?
Will using Litz wire allow more copper to fill the stator?

What about using litz wire for phase wires? Will it improve anything? Less induction maybe? More current with less heat?
I do believe I saw one hubmotor here on ES using litz wires as phase wires.
 
At the time in engineering class, AC motor theory seemed so useless to me. I went and drank beer all those years ago. It felt good then.
I'm here now to atone now for my former sins.

Subscribed. :mrgreen:
 
macribs said:
you get more copper in less space and more current ability from using litz wire.
Really? Where did you got this from, source?
P.S. Those hubs actually use “kind of litz wire”, those are multi strand winds, that would take advantage of skin effect minimization, if there were those wild frequencies present, but they are not.:)
 
Samd said:
At the time in engineering class, AC motor theory seemed so useless to me. I went and drank beer all those years ago. It felt good then.
I'm here now to atone now for my former sins.

Subscribed. :mrgreen:

I believe my problem in understanding motor winding is that I don't understand some of the basics. Time for me to hit the basics on motor theory.

I found, with experience, when I have difficulty understanding something, it usually comes down to not fully understanding the basics.
 
Offroader said:
I believe my problem in understanding motor winding is that I don't understand some of the basics. Time for me to hit the basics on motor theory.

I found, with experience, when I have difficulty understanding something, it usually comes down to not fully understanding the basics.
Good place to start: https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=jjuTYtKokc8C&printsec=frontcover&dq=fundamentals+austin+hughes&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjlyNaWhZ_LAhVHthoKHaAuDtIQ6AEIJjAA#v=onepage&q=fundamentals%20austin%20hughes&f=false
 
parabellum said:
macribs said:
IIRC you get more copper in less space and more current ability from using litz wire?
Really? Where did you got this from, source?
P.S. Those hubs actually use “kind of litz wire”, those are multi strand winds, that would take advantage of skin effect minimization, if there were those wild frequencies present, but they are not.:)


Hehe it was not me claiming to be correct, it was me asking if that was the case. I am in no way stating facts, it was only a Q :)
I am still learning and trying to absorb all of this and while I read about BLDC motors in the text book I got, my head starts to spin because this is all so complicated to take in for someone that is not an engineer. Then I try to relate to something I do know - and with the litz wires I remembered that 20 so years back litz where the tits in HIFI back when I did custom car stereo. More current was the mantra. As a layman I could not hear any difference but then it was not me who paid the bill, I just build what was ordered.
 
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