Electric downhill/freeride bike

Been awhile since I posted anything, but I think I got it sorted out and things will happen very shortly.

Here's my prototype of what I think will be the final design.
Its as narrow as it could be with the batteries I chose and as small I could get it and still fit all the components inside.
I have made it 60mm longer than the original big hit frame and I use the rear frame mounting point as a jack shaft for the two stage reduction drive.

The first reduction will be made with #25 chains and sprockets, I hope the chain handle all the power.

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I've been making some progress.
The rear swing arm will be made of aluminum, 50mm x 20mm.
Ball bearings are held in place by a holder made ​​of aluminum which is split into two parts. These are held together by two bolts and can easily split if you should take the swing arm of the bike.

Share your feedback if you see something that should be done differently, I would prefer to make a working bike the first time.

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Hello

Been awhile since I made any progress, but here's some pictures of my latest work.

This is one of three packs that I will build for my bike . This pack is made of 72 makita cells and is constructed as a 12s6p. This gives me 50v and 9Ah. That's the theory anyway.
I chose to use a 100w solder iron and clean every bit whit acetone and paper before doing anything. I can tell you that the white paper at every cell is hard to get off.
Then I prepared every copper strip whit a little solder and had a towel with water that I quickly cooled every cell with. Not one cell got hot when I did this, I just hope I didn't make any bad joints.
This pack is made out of perfectly balanced and capacity tested cells, so there should be no problems as I know yet ;)
The reasons for making three packs instead of one big is;
:arrow: I don't trust used cells even when I have checked them this meticulous, its easier to change one of three packs than one big.
:arrow: The bike will have a inspection door. I hope to make this a little smaller and it will be easier to get the batteries out of the bike this way.
:arrow: I one cell reverses I hope this could save some batteries instead of killing a hole pack as in a paralleled row.

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Hello

I finally go some progress. It's been a long long time since I delivered the drawings to the laser-cutter, and now I got almost all the necessary parts to get this going.

I am very pleased with the finish on the parts, this is the new standard for sheet metal building for me, nothing beats cnc laser and bender. I could only wish that it wasent that expensive.
My progress heavily depend on when I can be at my friends workshop, I hope he gets a complicated project soon.

Anyway, this is it, my dream still in parts for now. This will change soon.

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Wow that looks really good! Props on the sheet metal skills! Are you cnc cutting your pieces? Twin 80-100's will be brutal :-D That was originally my plan but I'm going with 1 rewound 80-100 and a Nuvinci instead. I warn against using #25 harnessing twin motors. My 80-100 goped stretches chains like crazy. I just replace the chain often. I've heard good things about 219 chain. Good luck on your build!
 
The level of builds on ES keeps improving. Fantastic job, makes me want to build one from scratch as well. How thick are the metal plates?

I just realized it's all aluminum. 2-3mm. The areas with a lot of stress are going to need a lot of support. Any info on how you plan to do this?
 
Wow so this will be nearly weld free?? Looks like a cool design!!
 
VERY impressive!! :twisted: Did you get a weight on the metal to get a general idea of final measure? You aren't messing around here man, I like this design a lot! Is that the DMR bottom bracket adapter?
 
Cool, can't wait to see this thing come together!

Thanks,
Jay
 
E-racer said:
Wow that looks really good! Props on the sheet metal skills! Are you cnc cutting your pieces? Twin 80-100's will be brutal :-D That was originally my plan but I'm going with 1 rewound 80-100 and a Nuvinci instead. I warn against using #25 harnessing twin motors. My 80-100 goped stretches chains like crazy. I just replace the chain often. I've heard good things about 219 chain. Good luck on your build!

I planned on using #25 chain since I already bought chains and sprocket. It's just for the first stage, with a torque limiter.
If it breaks I will find another setup. I got someone to cut and bend the parts for me, I just gave them the drawings and explained myself.

kfong said:
The level of builds on ES keeps improving. Fantastic job, makes me want to build one from scratch as well. How thick are the metal plates?

I just realized it's all aluminum. 2-3mm. The areas with a lot of stress are going to need a lot of support. Any info on how you plan to do this?

Thank you :wink: .
The sheet metal is originally 1.25mm but the shop did not have that in stock so 1.5mm is used. Its all steel, and because of the bends there is no way this bike will ever break. Some of the parts are 3mm steel, where the spring and brackets are mounted.

farmkid4 said:
WOW this thing is gonna rip!! :twisted:

cant wait to see how it turns out:)

Thanks, can't wait myself :p

Whiplash said:
Wow so this will be nearly weld free?? Looks like a cool design!!

That's just for guiding before welding so the hole frame will be dead straight. Thank you :)

etard said:
VERY impressive!! :twisted: Did you get a weight on the metal to get a general idea of final measure? You aren't messing around here man, I like this design a lot! Is that the DMR bottom bracket adapter?

The weight that Inventor gave me was 7kg with all the parts. Since the lasercutter used 1.5mm instead of 1.25mm I suspect it will be a bit heavier.
Thats no biggie, I am not a lightweight myself. The bottom bracket is a sick bike one. Cheap and seems to be good quality. Thanks, I like it mysef :p

bzhwindtalker said:
any chance you publish your cad? just asking.... :roll: I have acces to a water jet machine and I need a new frame :)

Maybe I will, but I want to check the concept myself first. There is a slight chance that there need some adjustments here and there. I would rather find out myself than wasting your hard earned money with a bad drawing.

motorino magnet said:
Great-you should sell kits -you do ? How much ?

Serious.

Cheers

That would be very very expensive. Not that I would charge much but a electric hi power bike is very expensive. I don't think there would be any marked for that any soon.

GITech said:
Cool, can't wait to see this thing come together!

Thanks,
Jay

Thanks, will do my best to satisfy the electric group of people :wink:


I have done some more work on a diy spot welder that Jeremy Harris made some time ago, thats one missed stand up guy I want back to this forum.
I got four 1F caps, I hope they supply enough juice for some welding.

I also got a call today, there are several boxes with makita packs waiting for me to be picked up :p
Thats alot of work, but I feel committed to use them since I have invested so much time and money in them(even when I get them for free all the sorting and checking of every cell takes alot of time).

Fyi, nickel plates are rare and expensive. All in all, use lipo. If I knew all the work this would take I would rather buy new packs from hk.



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Those plates look rather thick for spot welding. I hope the DIY spot welder is up to the task.
 
kfong said:
Those plates look rather thick for spot welding. I hope the DIY spot welder is up to the task.

Thats true, but in order to feed short burps of amps i need enough area to transfer the current. The sheets are 0.25 mm and I will make strips thats 20mm wide. That means 20*0.25= 5mm^2

In my opinion that is too little, but there is no way I can weld anything thicker than that.
 
:wink: :) :D :mrgreen:
 
Hello guys

I was able to make some progress with the frame yesterday, that was longed for.

As the pictures show I have been welding parts of the frame but cant make much more progress before I get the parts that is inside the frame made, such as the bottom bracket, jack shaft bearing holder etc.
Since the machining of the parts is too expensive at the moment I went to my old school and talked to a teacher about making the parts for me, it may cost a little or I may get it for free, time will show.

Since we have 50 cm of snow and -8 degree Celsius outside its no hurry, but I would love to have it completely ready to run when the weather gets above zero degrees.

Pleas tell me if there are too many pictures, I can take fever pictures with more progress between if that is more entertaining/educational.
As soon as the mechanical parts are in place the fun will start, I cant wait for that.

I want you to know that this project is taking so much time because I only get a few days a month on a proper work shop unfortunate.




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Ratking said:
Hello guys

I was able to make some progress with the frame yesterday, that was longed for.

As the pictures show I have been welding parts of the frame but cant make much more progress before I get the parts that is inside the frame made, such as the bottom bracket, jack shaft bearing holder etc.
Since the machining of the parts is too expensive at the moment I went to my old school and talked to a teacher about making the parts for me, it may cost a little or I may get it for free, time will show.

Since we have 50 cm of snow and -8 degree Celsius outside its no hurry, but I would love to have it completely ready to run when the weather gets above zero degrees.

Pleas tell me if there are too many pictures, I can take fever pictures with more progress between if that is more entertaining/educational.
As soon as the mechanical parts are in place the fun will start, I cant wait for that.

I want you to know that this project is taking so much time because I only get a few days a month on a proper work shop unfortunate.

This is AWESOME! Well done Ratking, it's looking great so far. Can't wait to see the finished product. GO FOR IT!!
 
lostrack said:
Ratking said:
Hello guys

I was able to make some progress with the frame yesterday, that was longed for.

As the pictures show I have been welding parts of the frame but cant make much more progress before I get the parts that is inside the frame made, such as the bottom bracket, jack shaft bearing holder etc.
Since the machining of the parts is too expensive at the moment I went to my old school and talked to a teacher about making the parts for me, it may cost a little or I may get it for free, time will show.

Since we have 50 cm of snow and -8 degree Celsius outside its no hurry, but I would love to have it completely ready to run when the weather gets above zero degrees.

Pleas tell me if there are too many pictures, I can take fever pictures with more progress between if that is more entertaining/educational.
As soon as the mechanical parts are in place the fun will start, I cant wait for that.

I want you to know that this project is taking so much time because I only get a few days a month on a proper work shop unfortunate.

This is AWESOME! Well done Ratking, it's looking great so far. Can't wait to see the finished product. GO FOR IT!!

Thank you, kind words makes me want to give you guys more updates, so I just tried on the motors.
This is the first time I tried them in the frame, and they fit perfect. I can't tell you how amazing laser cut parts are. From drawing to perfect results.

I think they look good, although I had to make a part of the motors be on the outside. Good for the motors i terms of cooling, not so good for the design.

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Awesome! I have been wondering when someone was going to do a riveted together bike! You know, Indy cars were all sheet aluminum riveted together at one time long ago! An age old artform if you have never seen it!
 
This is an awesome build man! good luck with it all!
 
After looking at the pics again, you might want to double the number of rivets you use though....... The spaces are fairly large between them...
 
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