eLife controller supply?

[Smee8pies]

Hi All,
I have a dead controller on my eLife folding bike. I know it's this because the controller off my other identical eLife bike works when swapped for the broken one.
I'm after some advice about sourcing a new, or new to me controller. The part number is b-wzkd2413ka-jm108-f4.
Does anyone have any ideas where I can get one of these please?
Neill.

 

[neptronix]

We are an ebike builder forum so good luck finding any information about prebuilts.
Pictures would help your chances of finding a match.

I'd suggest buying a well supported third party controller to replace it - we could definitely help you with that.

 

[Smee8pies]

My apologies if I've posted in the incorrect forum. I'm just trying to find some way of getting my ebikes back up and running again. I am very open to the idea of replacing this controller with a reliable and robust 3rd party alternative. So if anyone has any suggestions, please, fire away. My current ebike is an eLife Infusion, everything works as it should apart from the controller.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Neill.

We are an ebike builder forum so good luck finding any information about prebuilts.
Pictures would help your chances of finding a match.

I'd suggest buying a well supported third party controller to replace it - we could definitely help you with that.

 

[neptronix]

E-bike,Tianjin Santroll Electric Automobile Technology Co.,Ltd.

Looked up the company on google and aliexpress, can't find their controllers for sale, i would imagine you can't get one unless you're an OEM.

Does the company you bought the bike from supply replacement controllers?

..otherwise you're looking at converting to a third party controller.
Do you know how to solder?

 

[Smee8pies]

E-bike,Tianjin Santroll Electric Automobile Technology Co.,Ltd.

Looked up the company on google and aliexpress, can't find their controllers for sale, i would imagine you can't get one unless you're an OEM.

Does the company you bought the bike from supply replacement controllers?

..otherwise you're looking at converting to a third party controller.
Do you know how to solder?

My soldering skills are in great need of improvement but I know someone who can and can follow a wiring diagram.
What do you have in mind??

 

[E-HP]

My apologies if I've posted in the incorrect forum. I'm just trying to find some way of getting my ebikes back up and running again. I am very open to the idea of replacing this controller with a reliable and robust 3rd party alternative. So if anyone has any suggestions, please, fire away. My current ebike is an eLife Infusion, everything works as it should apart from the controller.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Neill.



View attachment 356920

Is this a pic of the existing controller? Looking at pics of the bike, and tracing the motor cable, it looks like the controller is located right in front of the battery on the rear rack. Is that the case?
If so, it may not be a difficult conversion, but will require your assistance. Can you post pics of the corresponding connectors on the ebike side? Based on the bike's manual, which incorrectly identifies the handlebar controls as "the controller", it looks like you'll be replacing the "controller", so if you buy a replacement controller, you will likely be adding a display and buttons if you want to vary the assist levels for PAS. You could also decide if you want to add a throttle during this conversion (which is a helpful feature regardless, when troubleshooting to get the system to run the first time).
You will also need to inspect your bottom bracket area to see what type of PAS sensor it has. It could look like a disc with magnets on it on either the left or right side of the bottom bracket, or sometimes a closed unit located on one side or the other, with a small cable coming out of it and routing to the controller. You should be able to reuse the sensor, but you'll need provide a pic to determine what type you have.
My guess, by looking at the battery spec and the existing controller, you'll be looking for a ~10A controller that supports pedal assist. You may only have to redo the hall sensor connector on the bike side (that corresponds with the black 6 wire connector on the controller), if you choose the right replacement. Actually, it's hard to tell in the pic if there are one or two black connectors, so a better pic would help (the second connector could be for the PAS?).
If you post a few pics, which can help determine what you're up against, and for you to decide whether you're up to the task.

My guess is you'll end up with something like this, with a simple compatible display.

ebike 24V/36V 15A KT Sine/Square Wave Controller for Eike 250W 350W Hub Motor | eBay

8--Suitable for 250-350W Sensor motor. 5--Speed Set:1-4.2V. 8--Suitable for 250-350W Sensorless. T06P with hall sensor 6--Brake input: Low-level.

www.ebay.com

 

[docw009]

Your controller is a bit hard to replace with a plug-n-play solution. It has a handlebar harness, but the motor connector uses bullet connectors and a flat hall sensor. Is the Hall connector 5 pins or 6 pins. Colors should be red-black-green-yellow-blue and an optional white, Does the bike have a display that shows speed?

You're going to have to buy a controller and display combo in any case. You can find a 15A KT controller and LCD3 display for about $70 shipped, but you need handle bar brake levers, and maybe a throttle too. Here's a link on aliexpress.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801129670418.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.25.46937c8ejmrvTI&algo_pvid=6b69c196-3bfb-4383-a9a9-4120ee66e65a&algo_exp_id=6b69c196-3bfb-4383-a9a9-4120ee66e65a-12&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2134.75%2134.75%21%21%2134.75%2134.75%21%402103241117217725995992743e718d%2110000015699123451%21sea%21US%21742508029%21&curPageLogUid=tPh3uKD5pHjQ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Brake levers and throttle are cheap, about $20. You can buy them on amazon. You're looking at under $100.

If it scares you to buy from china, there's this kit on amazon but the display is not very good. Buttons feel cheap.

Amazon.com

What you will be doing is cutting off the flat motor connector on the old controller, and matching it by color to the new controller. Six solder joints, covered with shrink wrap. The display will already have its own connector. You have to match the brake levers, but those are only two pins. If you buy a new throttle, it will probably match,

 

[neptronix]

His hall and phase colors seem to match up to what's normal, i think a new controller with a new throttle and other accessory electronics could be good, wouldn't involve rocket science or playing musical chairs with wire colors.

 

[E-HP]

What you will be doing is cutting off the flat motor connector on the old controller, and matching it by color to the new controller. Six solder joints, covered with shrink wrap. The display will already have its own connector. You have to match the brake levers, but those are only two pins. If you buy a new throttle, it will probably match,

The connector near the motor is the HiGo type, but it looks like it’s using an extension cable with HiGo on one end and bullets on the other (which is why I asked the OP to post a pic of the corresponding connectors on the bike side). Just a guess since I’ve seen those types of extensions before.

 

[Smee8pies]

Is this a pic of the existing controller? Looking at pics of the bike, and tracing the motor cable, it looks like the controller is located right in front of the battery on the rear rack. Is that the case?
If so, it may not be a difficult conversion, but will require your assistance. Can you post pics of the corresponding connectors on the ebike side? Based on the bike's manual, which incorrectly identifies the handlebar controls as "the controller", it looks like you'll be replacing the "controller", so if you buy a replacement controller, you will likely be adding a display and buttons if you want to vary the assist levels for PAS. You could also decide if you want to add a throttle during this conversion (which is a helpful feature regardless, when troubleshooting to get the system to run the first time).
You will also need to inspect your bottom bracket area to see what type of PAS sensor it has. It could look like a disc with magnets on it on either the left or right side of the bottom bracket, or sometimes a closed unit located on one side or the other, with a small cable coming out of it and routing to the controller. You should be able to reuse the sensor, but you'll need provide a pic to determine what type you have.
My guess, by looking at the battery spec and the existing controller, you'll be looking for a ~10A controller that supports pedal assist. You may only have to redo the hall sensor connector on the bike side (that corresponds with the black 6 wire connector on the controller), if you choose the right replacement. Actually, it's hard to tell in the pic if there are one or two black connectors, so a better pic would help (the second connector could be for the PAS?).
If you post a few pics, which can help determine what you're up against, and for you to decide whether you're up to the task.

My guess is you'll end up with something like this, with a simple compatible display.

ebike 24V/36V 15A KT Sine/Square Wave Controller for Eike 250W 350W Hub Motor | eBay

8--Suitable for 250-350W Sensor motor. 5--Speed Set:1-4.2V. 8--Suitable for 250-350W Sensorless. T06P with hall sensor 6--Brake input: Low-level.

www.ebay.com

I have gone ahead and bought a controller off Amazon and we can work out what most of the wires corrispond to between the two controllers. The one we're not sure about is pic numbered 1. This is from the broken controller and has 6 coloured wires and has one coloured white. We think it's the hall effect sensor but the wires that corrispond the closest, pic 2 only has 5 wires, no white one. Is the white wire of any importance?
I hope that made sense, I'm not techy.
Neill.

 

[neptronix]

Looks like a hall sensor connector to me, based on colors.

White is typically a temperature sensor, it's okay to not connect it to a controller that doesn't have that pin/wire.

 

[E-HP]

Yup, that's why I asked for the existing connector on the bike side. I suspect the other black (3 pin?) connector is for the PAS, but I can't see the pic clearly enough/

 

[Smee8pies]

Yup, that's why I asked for the existing connector on the bike side. I suspect the other black (3 pin?) connector is for the PAS, but I can't see the pic clearly enough/

We have matched the three pin on the new controller with the wires of the same colour on the old controller. We are having difficulty with the cable coming from the display on the handlebars. It has six wires coming from it, see picture. We think the black and white are for the brakes. The red and yellow are for the power switch. We think the green is for the power level selector. The new controller has two green wires that can connect together, but how do we know which is power in/power out? This leaves a blue wire and we don't know what that's for.
I've attached picture of the cable from the display, a pic of the display itself and a pic of the wiring diagram we're using.
Neill.

 

[neptronix]

Worst case scenario, you buy a throttle that matches what the controller wanted.
Best case scenario: you cut open the original wiring and the colors match up and it passes some tests with a multimeter and it just wires up and works.

 

[E-HP]

We have matched the three pin on the new controller with the wires of the same colour on the old controller. We are having difficulty with the cable coming from the display on the handlebars. It has six wires coming from it, see picture. We think the black and white are for the brakes. The red and yellow are for the power switch. We think the green is for the power level selector. The new controller has two green wires that can connect together, but how do we know which is power in/power out? This leaves a blue wire and we don't know what that's for.
I've attached picture of the cable from the display, a pic of the display itself and a pic of the wiring diagram we're using.
Neill.

You won't be using the "display". It won't work with the new controller. You'll be replacing it with whatever comes with the new controller. That's why you need to get a kit/combo with matched display and controller.

 

[bodsao]

Hi, I have talked to a number of people with the same issue with elife controller failure. Have you managed to find a solution to replacing the controller? would you be willing to share the solution in detail?