IMO, nothing should be pruned, ever, from ES panels.
That right of removal should best be reserved for authors, forever,
to correct, or to take their toys and go home if they quit in a snit.
There is much of technical value, arcane information. I'm font of old-time crap.
No-one remembers stuff purely thrown away.
Thank goodness for Google Book Search for learning of painters' history, for instance.
I did not have GBS when I was learning. Paint technology books are extremely rare.
You can download, for free, a major book which ALL of the old book sellers were selling for about $600
back when I really needed that book.
I paid... that price then. Today: it is FREE, online.
I also have an original, ca. 1875 pamphlet-book by a then-famed varnish maker.
All their open secrets, revealed.
It is not online, but should be, for it is utterly fascinating and also written with many humorous touches
and comical cartoons and chapter headings: it was for the practical man, and why he should use a brand name paint or varnish, such as MURPHY'S, only.
Do not clean your brushes.
Hang them in cans of turps.
Do not remove more from the container than a tin handled cup will hold;
never put used varnish back into the can.
Avoid dust. Dust, dust! The roads were all dirt. The horses raised dust.
The flies in the hot season were raised by foodstuffs and horse dung:
screen your painting room. Wet the floor. Make your painters work almost nude,
except in winter when you really should shut down the shop.
When Mr. Customer brings in his buggy and says: I want it back in seven days,
advise him to go to retarded painter, Mr. Lardhead, down the road, and in thirty days,
come back to the real paint shop.
How to make a profit. How to save your men's health. How to paint rough machinery
decently enough that the paint would stick for longer than it took to just sell the machine.
DON'T paint shop machinery in japan (black). The shop is too dark anyway;
choose white lead, oil, and a touch of black (grey), and coat, dry, rub with cuttlefish,
wash, repaint, a number of coats to fill the castings, and let it all dry hard before the next coat,
or you get check marks and disgruntled buyers.
Colors. How to mix colors. Utilitarian finishes. Why white lead is NOT the supreme paint.
Why some lead is useful in almost all paints and varnishes: as a polymerizer and drier.
etc, etc. Weeks can be spent reading. Years can be spent learning. I've done both,
including making antique varnish, including lead drier, from scratch, in gallon batches,
at temperatures nearing five hundred degrees: dangerous, exothermic reactions and flash fire possible.
The lead had no aff..ee..eeffect on my bwain.
:wink:
----
Point: please do not auto-prune. Readers in ten years and more from now will thank you.
I know my ashes will be grateful, as I do not plan to be sifted at the crematorium.
t.y., r.
