AussieJester
1 TW
VRdublove said:
Howz the balancing going the cells behaving in the tubes still? Im sitting on the fence as to buy some of these off Doc myself
I think if i do i would do a tube setup myself IF it works that is...More video please
Etek Project: Bike to Trike
- Thread starter VRdublove
- Start date
Howz the balancing going the cells behaving in the tubes still? Im sitting on the fence as to buy some of these off Doc myself
I think if i do i would do a tube setup myself IF it works that is...More video please
VRdublove
100 W
The tubes are working great. The earlier problems that I had were caused by pvc dust and shavings in the tube, working their way between the battery contacts. I thoroughly cleaned the tubes and batteries, and haven't had any problems since. The tubes could use a little more tension, but that could be easily accomplished by adding a small copper spacer (similar to a penny) to add tension to the tubes. Make sure your copper bar that connects the tubes is polished, and your contacts clean, and you should be good to go. I recently ordered some silver contact paste from MEC to reduce the electrical losses between the 100's of contacts in the pack. So I'll update with how the stuff seems to work.
The only real grumble I have with the pack at the moment is that the power can get surgey on bumpy roads, but I think the problem will be solved with some of the silver paste and a little more tension added to the tubes.
I love the design of this pack, because I have the ability to slide the copper bar out of one end of the pack, and check and replace any weak cell individually in the pack, and I can replace older, weaker cells with newer, higher capacity cells as I acquire and analyse more cells.
I will make a quality video of the 100m dash as soon as I get the rest of this pack done. It should be within the next two, or maybe three weeks.
The only real grumble I have with the pack at the moment is that the power can get surgey on bumpy roads, but I think the problem will be solved with some of the silver paste and a little more tension added to the tubes.
I love the design of this pack, because I have the ability to slide the copper bar out of one end of the pack, and check and replace any weak cell individually in the pack, and I can replace older, weaker cells with newer, higher capacity cells as I acquire and analyse more cells.
I will make a quality video of the 100m dash as soon as I get the rest of this pack done. It should be within the next two, or maybe three weeks.
AussieJester
1 TW
VRdublove said:
Fantastic! I liked the idea of the tubes when i first saw safes setup...How are you charging them (apologies if i have missed this if it was mentioned earlier i dont recall reading it)
VRdublove said:
Nice...I had an idea of using 'Liquid Soldier' i saw it in
Dick Smiths awhile back, have never used it dunno how good it is, this would however prevent the cells being dropped out of the tubes and changed so prolly not the best idea after all :-S
VRdublove said:
AWSOME...look foward to it do ya best to break that damn DocBass's 7.8seconds so he has to pile more batteries on his bike hehehe
Hes going to need a forklift before long to pickz it up if it falls over LOL (just funnin' with ya Doc )
VRdublove
100 W
Charging is simple, since all of the tubes are connected by one positive copper bar on one end, and one negative copper bar on the other end, I just use my Mastech 50V, 20 amp variable power supply to charge. The leads off the charger are 10 guage wire, with alligator clamps on the ends. I just clamp the pos lead to the pos copper bar, and the neg lead to the neg copper bar, charge at 46.2V, 12 amps for the 40.7V nominal, 17ah pack. I could charge at a higher amperage, but I am usually in no rush so I just chose 12amps. (1 amp for each of the 12 parallel tubes) I make sure to turn off the power supply when it is fully charged at 46.2V, and the amperage has trickled down to .6 amps, (500mA per tube in 12P pack).
By the way Doc, is this an appropriate cutoff point for charging these cells? 500mA per cell at full charge? Or should I be cutting off the charge at 250mA per cell? I know you said that these don't like long trickle charges..
Don't forget that Doc and me are on the same team, representin for the Sony Konion Makita Cells!! 
By the way Doc, is this an appropriate cutoff point for charging these cells? 500mA per cell at full charge? Or should I be cutting off the charge at 250mA per cell? I know you said that these don't like long trickle charges..
Don't forget that Doc and me are on the same team, representin for the Sony Konion Makita Cells!!
AussieJester
1 TW
VRdublove said:Don't forget that Doc and me are on the same team, representin for the Sony Konion Makita Cells!!
Your using the same cells but Doc uses one of them boat anchor's uhm..i mean hub motors...hes 'the enemy' hehehe
If you can't beatz his time with an ETek there's something wrong suuuurely..Our other hope will be recumpence when he has his new bike built with the rc motor...
VRdublove
100 W
I finally had a chance to attempt a top speed run on the trike. The weather today was nice, 40 degrees, sunny, and just a little wind. I found a rare flat section of road in Boone, put on some spandex and took it out for a run.
I limited the controller to 150 amps at 40.7 volts., so this was about 6100 Watts available. It turns out that I only needed 120 amps, 4800 watts, to get up to top speed pretty quickly. (The cycle analyst read a peak amperage of 120 amps on my first run.)
The gearing I was using was 20T to a 48T in the rear, a 2.4 :1 reduction. According to my gear ratio calculator, it is capable of 62 mph on this gearing at 40.7 volts. With the rear wheel propped up, the cycle analyst read 63mph at full throttle. The actual best speed I saw was 58 mph when it was fully charged. In the video below, I saw a best of 55 mph, due to some voltage sag.
My cycle analyst started wigging out at above 50 mph for some reason, and would read a stored top speed of 657 mph for some reason that I haven't figured out yet. For this reason, I couldn't get a solid reading on the exact top speed of the trike. However, when I was cruising along, I would occasionally get an accurate reading, but it wouldn't store in the memory, since the wacky 657 stat was already stored in the memory.
Here's a video of my 6th run, on a long section of freeway with rolling hills. Average voltage along this run was 36-37 volts. Top speed of around 55 mph. I usually use a large flag, but took it off for these runs to improve aerodynamics.
This trike still has a lot more in it, but it obviously gets a little scary on bumpy roads, I'd like to design some sort of steering stabilizer. Lipo would also help to keep the big voltage drop from happening.
Blasting around on this thing today was great!!
I limited the controller to 150 amps at 40.7 volts., so this was about 6100 Watts available. It turns out that I only needed 120 amps, 4800 watts, to get up to top speed pretty quickly. (The cycle analyst read a peak amperage of 120 amps on my first run.)
The gearing I was using was 20T to a 48T in the rear, a 2.4 :1 reduction. According to my gear ratio calculator, it is capable of 62 mph on this gearing at 40.7 volts. With the rear wheel propped up, the cycle analyst read 63mph at full throttle. The actual best speed I saw was 58 mph when it was fully charged. In the video below, I saw a best of 55 mph, due to some voltage sag.
My cycle analyst started wigging out at above 50 mph for some reason, and would read a stored top speed of 657 mph for some reason that I haven't figured out yet. For this reason, I couldn't get a solid reading on the exact top speed of the trike. However, when I was cruising along, I would occasionally get an accurate reading, but it wouldn't store in the memory, since the wacky 657 stat was already stored in the memory.
Here's a video of my 6th run, on a long section of freeway with rolling hills. Average voltage along this run was 36-37 volts. Top speed of around 55 mph. I usually use a large flag, but took it off for these runs to improve aerodynamics.
This trike still has a lot more in it, but it obviously gets a little scary on bumpy roads, I'd like to design some sort of steering stabilizer. Lipo would also help to keep the big voltage drop from happening.
Blasting around on this thing today was great!!
Doctorbass
100 GW
Nice vid VRdublove !! imprssive speed!!
First to answer to your question, the end charge cut current is usualy C/20 so with every 1Ah you have it mean 50mA of cut current.. but some will use C/10.. that give you a bit less capacity per charge (1or 2% max) but that preserv the cell cycle life.
I had this issue too and Justin explained me that this almost happel on older Cycle analyst version.. this is a little capacitor that need to be replaces with a higher value on it pcb.
this glitch is generated by the induced current in the throttle line or the hall line fronm the hub motor.. Ask Justin he will help for that.. or maybe search o the ebike.ca troubleshoot i think this is explained!
Oh.. and you must update your signature now!! (gearing limited 45 mph top speed)
:wink: Doc
First to answer to your question, the end charge cut current is usualy C/20 so with every 1Ah you have it mean 50mA of cut current.. but some will use C/10.. that give you a bit less capacity per charge (1or 2% max) but that preserv the cell cycle life.
I had this issue too and Justin explained me that this almost happel on older Cycle analyst version.. this is a little capacitor that need to be replaces with a higher value on it pcb.
this glitch is generated by the induced current in the throttle line or the hall line fronm the hub motor.. Ask Justin he will help for that.. or maybe search o the ebike.ca troubleshoot i think this is explained!
Oh.. and you must update your signature now!! (gearing limited 45 mph top speed)
:wink: Doc
docnjoj
1 GW
I don't remember if I ever replied, Aussie! If i didn't: GRRRRRRRRRRRRR!AussieJester said:RLT said:
:: hides and waits for other Doc to see above post::
otherDoc
Whoops, just reread and found my old post! Sorry! As an old guy, I don't think I can handle a hardtail trike as bumps hurt too much! Unfortunately, the rear suspension on my trike does limit placement of stuff, just like on a 2 wheeler.
etard
100 kW
You sir, Kick ass! Forget school, maybe just be a test pilot? :wink: So, are you going to regear it and try for 65 MPH? I guess you have to change the rear sprocket? Someday, I will own one of those trikes, in the meantime I will live vicariously through you.
Forget school, maybe just be a test pilot? :wink: So, are you going to regear it and try for 65 MPH? I guess you have to change the rear sprocket? Someday, I will own one of those trikes, in the meantime I will live vicariously through you.
hi
i was going to redesign my seat to a more bucket design.
Redesigning the seat had to take a back burner with me so I still have just the original seat with a 1†mesh cushion supplied by KMX-UK.
How does your seat feel when you are riding I never got a chance to make an opinion of mine before it was stolen. I have a replacement am rebuilding I want to know if the seat is ok.
Geoff
i was going to redesign my seat to a more bucket design.
Redesigning the seat had to take a back burner with me so I still have just the original seat with a 1†mesh cushion supplied by KMX-UK.
How does your seat feel when you are riding I never got a chance to make an opinion of mine before it was stolen. I have a replacement am rebuilding I want to know if the seat is ok.
Geoff
VRdublove
100 W
Thanks Doc, I'll check out the website out and see what Justin has to say.
ETard- I'm thinking about regearing for a little higher speed, but I might just wait till spring for some new batteries to try it again. With the Lipoly at 44.4V and minimal sag, I should be able to see 65 mph. I'm not really interested in speeds much above that
.
Geoff- The seat works pretty well, the only thing I would like is better side bolsters, it can get a little sketchy around hard corners.
Here's a flyby video that my buddy took for me. This one was at 50 mph.
Thanks for the good words!
ETard- I'm thinking about regearing for a little higher speed, but I might just wait till spring for some new batteries to try it again. With the Lipoly at 44.4V and minimal sag, I should be able to see 65 mph. I'm not really interested in speeds much above that
. Geoff- The seat works pretty well, the only thing I would like is better side bolsters, it can get a little sketchy around hard corners.
Here's a flyby video that my buddy took for me. This one was at 50 mph.
Thanks for the good words!
hiVRdublove said:
thats the main thing my redesign was going to address, as I said a bucket seat from what you say the redesign can be made simpler just making the side foam sections I dont need to pad the whole seat, ideas are forming but will have to wait I have to get the KMX from out of the box and a Chopper type design bike converted and ready for a rally in Wales UK. The seat is going to be after they are finnished if I have time.
Geoff
VRdublove
100 W
I'm now working on an onboard charging setup. Since the pack doesn't need balancing, I plan on using this 480 watt power supply for onboard charging: http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/sp-480-48.shtml
However, I want it to stop charging once the charge current drops to 1.5 amps. How could I modify this charger to do this? Perhaps with some sort of transistor that is closed until current drops below 1.5 amps, then it opens?
I'm basically looking for a foolproof onboard charging solution around 480 watts or more that is compact, fairly bulletproof, and can simply be plugged in and will fully charge and shutoff automatically when current drops below 1.5 amps. The power supply I found does all of this except for auto cutoff, and the fan slightly worries me.
However, I want it to stop charging once the charge current drops to 1.5 amps. How could I modify this charger to do this? Perhaps with some sort of transistor that is closed until current drops below 1.5 amps, then it opens?
I'm basically looking for a foolproof onboard charging solution around 480 watts or more that is compact, fairly bulletproof, and can simply be plugged in and will fully charge and shutoff automatically when current drops below 1.5 amps. The power supply I found does all of this except for auto cutoff, and the fan slightly worries me.
hi
kmx have brought out a bucket seat for the trike, it is a straight replacement for the flat seat that comes with the trike it uses the same seat metalwork so should be easy to fit, I spoke to the designer of the KMX line of trikes on fitting and he said it will be no problem.
A container of them have just arrived at KMX-UK I was on the list to get a call asking if i still wanted one as soon as KMX-UK got them, I got the call and ordered one, I also asked if/when the seats would be avalible in the US as I knew some will be. I've been told that they are in the US already KMX-US has them.
As for cost here is the link http://www.kmxus.com/shop/accessories/kmx-seat-upgrade/
go and have a look, when mine arrives I will post a good picture of it.
Geoff
kmx have brought out a bucket seat for the trike, it is a straight replacement for the flat seat that comes with the trike it uses the same seat metalwork so should be easy to fit, I spoke to the designer of the KMX line of trikes on fitting and he said it will be no problem.
A container of them have just arrived at KMX-UK I was on the list to get a call asking if i still wanted one as soon as KMX-UK got them, I got the call and ordered one, I also asked if/when the seats would be avalible in the US as I knew some will be. I've been told that they are in the US already KMX-US has them.
As for cost here is the link http://www.kmxus.com/shop/accessories/kmx-seat-upgrade/
go and have a look, when mine arrives I will post a good picture of it.
Geoff
VRdublove
100 W
Hey guys,
Quick question:
I'm trying to set up a little LED lighting system for the rear of the bike. I'm using about 2 watts worth of LEDs that were designed for use on automotive trailers, so I'm assuming they are designed for 11-15 volts. I can't run them off the 40.7 battery pack unless a use a big, nasty and inefficient resistor. I did however notice that my controller (sevcon millipak) chops voltage to 16 volts to power the HD line contactor. Is ok if I use these leads to run my 2 watts worth of LED's?
Thanks,
Tommy
Quick question:
I'm trying to set up a little LED lighting system for the rear of the bike. I'm using about 2 watts worth of LEDs that were designed for use on automotive trailers, so I'm assuming they are designed for 11-15 volts. I can't run them off the 40.7 battery pack unless a use a big, nasty and inefficient resistor. I did however notice that my controller (sevcon millipak) chops voltage to 16 volts to power the HD line contactor. Is ok if I use these leads to run my 2 watts worth of LED's?
Thanks,
Tommy
europa81
1 mW
I wouldn't strain the 16 V available. In the worst case they are result of a resistor network and an inline regulator. Suggest you consider a DC-DC converter for an elegant solution which leaves room for more on-board electronics running at 12 V such as GPS, Entertainment, Missile launcher and the like.
VRdublove
100 W
Europa: I think I will eventually do a DC-DC to make things a little simpler.
UPDATES:
The trike has been treating me very well, and has been my primary source of transportation as my 2 gasoline vehicles decided to stop working. Power has been great, as I keep it programmed to 200 amps now. I now have about 700 miles on the trike. I've got a couple of things done since I've been on here last:
1. I completed the pack, and now have just over 1 kWh onboard (40.7 Volts, 25 Ah).
2. I finished the onboard charger, which will do 15 amps and typically charges in a little over an hour.
3. I replaced the rear tire with a Maxxis hookworm, which gives me a lot more clearance behind the motor.
Below is the link for my most recent video. My buddy (dirtedan) and I are cruising together. He has a mountain bike with a RC motor, Castle HV110, and LiPo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ew1zXDMaqJU
UPDATES:
The trike has been treating me very well, and has been my primary source of transportation as my 2 gasoline vehicles decided to stop working. Power has been great, as I keep it programmed to 200 amps now. I now have about 700 miles on the trike. I've got a couple of things done since I've been on here last:
1. I completed the pack, and now have just over 1 kWh onboard (40.7 Volts, 25 Ah).
2. I finished the onboard charger, which will do 15 amps and typically charges in a little over an hour.
3. I replaced the rear tire with a Maxxis hookworm, which gives me a lot more clearance behind the motor.
Below is the link for my most recent video. My buddy (dirtedan) and I are cruising together. He has a mountain bike with a RC motor, Castle HV110, and LiPo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ew1zXDMaqJU
VRdublove
100 W
I'm headed out today to do the 100 meter acceleration test! I'll hopefully return to the forum tonight with a video and a good time!!
VRdublove
100 W
Thanks. I changed it to a link, how do I embed a youtube video so it shows up on the page? I feel like I've done it before, but I can't remember how.
VRdublove
100 W
Haha thanks!! It's my guilty pleasure. Currently in need of a motor transplant due to a brutal impact, aluminum oilpan vs. really hard rock. The motor lost that battle. That car developed my need for speed and taught me a lot about how to build, break, and fix things.
That car developed my need for speed and taught me a lot about how to build, break, and fix things.
VRdublove
100 W
My camera buddy that was supposed to help me out dipped out on me! Hopefully we will get a good video shot tomorrow.
Hopefully we will get a good video shot tomorrow.
paultrafalgar
10 kW
Wendiya, have you looked at Justin's Cross-Canada thread?
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5652&start=0&hilit=Canada
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5652&start=0&hilit=Canada
JEB
100 W
If you are still using # 35 chain, I am running a brushless motor, like yours, went to # 41 chain because it has rollars, 35 does not, hard to keep it greased.
