Hello all. I'd like to post some general info about my 2012 Ezip Trailz upgrades, results, and upcoming upgrades. I'll try to keep it short and sweet.
About me: I'm 30yrs old, 6'-2", 215lbs and athletic. I'm NOT a cyclist. I simply use my bike to commute 18miles one-way to work. I purchased the bike in Late Oct 2012. I currently have 1044 miles on it.
Here are my bike stats/results based on different configurations along my 18mile commute that includes a ton of hills and short flats. I ALWAY peddle with the bike.
20T Stock Setup w/ 14AH Deep Cycle SLA Batteries (OEM 10AH batteries could not survive my usage):
1. Max Speed before motor cutout: 16MPH
2. Full Throttle Pedal Assist Distance: 16-18miles
3. AH Used: 8AH-10AH
4. AVG Speed: 14MPH
5. Reviews: Top speed is not that great but hill climbing is not bad. Good compromise between speed and torque at 20T for low cost bike.
Upgraded Setup (16T Motor side freewheel, 11T-30T Freewheel, Parallel 24V SLA & LifePO4 batteries):
1. Max Speed before motor cutout: 20MPH
2. Full Throttle Pedal Assist Distance: 18-20miles
3. AH Used: 14-16AH
4. AVG Speed: 18MPH
5. Reviews: Thanks to DrkAngel for all the details on the 16T upgraded. Huge improvement over the stock setup for top speed. Torque is reduced. I know DrkAngel has argued more torque at higher speeds but unfortunately, some hills are just too steep to climb over 12-13MPH so the torque loss is noticable. The 11T freewheel upgrade was great to compliment the increased motor speed. Allows higher top speeds when you pedal with the bike. I used $2 40AMP blocking diodes to parallel my 12AH LifePO4 batteries and my 14AH SLA batteries. Motors tends to drain 60% more AH from the LifePO4 than the SLA, 9AH vs. 6AH respectively. Overall, I'm happy with the weight vs. capacity vs. price setup. I didnt have to waste the SLA batteries after I purchased to LifePO4 batteries.
Mid-drive Test Upgrade Setup (9T motor connected to a Left Side 44T Crankset, 11T-30T Freewheel, Parallel 24V SLA & LifePO4 batteries):
1. Max Speed before motor cutout: 35MPH
2. Full Throttle Pedal Assist Distance: 20-24miles
3. AH Used: 9-12AH
4. AVG Speed: 16MPH
5. Reviews: I only had this setup for one day so results are based only on (2)18mile commutes with 20MPH headwind and tailwind. With the mid-drive setup, the motor worked thru my bike gears. All I did was install a left side crankset with 44T chainring connected directly to the motor 9T sprocket. I did a excel spreadsheet of the speed, gear ratio, torque reductions, etc of all the gear combinations. The spreadsheet pattern was very accurate. At low gear ratios, I had great torque for hills, slow speed and opposite for high gear ratios. I learned that this setup is very similar to a manual transmission and works best when in the correct gear giving motor max power at 50% of no load RPM max (470RPM = 235RPM). Motor cutout really didnt exist. I was going 35MPH downhill which is WAY to fast on the Ezip brakes! Torque at the 11T high gear was terrible which is what the spreadsheet calculated. I couldn't pick up much speed on a flat unless I got it up to 20MPH myself. Once I got up to 20-25MPH, the motor exceled me to 35MPH with a decline. With this setup, flats were best taken on the 4th or 5th cog. Hills were slow but SUPER easy in the 1st, 2nd and even 3rd gear. Speeds were low, around 10-13MPH. The PAS setup worked better with this setup. I was easily crusing at 20MPH on flats using on PAS (no throttle). Most of the time, I only used the throttle going up hills and going down hills. The mid-drive setup is great for someone who has a combination of hills and flats. You can truly get the best of both worlds without killing your battery. I think in the future I will invest in a freewheel crankset and move the motor to the bottom bracket. For now, I like the effort I put in climbing hills and having a higher average speed. Not sure I'm ready to go 35MPH on brake pads either.
Upcoming Upgraded Setup (16T Motor side freewheel, 11T-30T Freewheel, 36V SLA batteries @30V-34V on stock controller):
1. Caclulated Max Speed before motor cutout: 25MPH
2. Calculated Full Throttle Pedal Assist Distance: 20-23miles
3. Calculated AH Used: 10-12AH
4. Calculated AVG Speed: 22MPH
5. Thoughts: I purchased $20 worth of parts to build a adjustable 37V, 30A voltage regulator. My plan is to use the 14AH and the OEM 20AH (OEM batteries paralled) batteries to create a 36V (approx. 40V) battery pack that will be converted down to 30V-34V. The stock controller cannot do 36V nominal which is really 40V at full charge. Based on another users testing and my own, the stock controller CAN do 30V. I don't know the high limit cutoff voltage but I'm guessing it is between 30V-34V. I opened the controller and it have 35V capacitors. This does not mean this is the limit b/c it could be limited by the other components but we know there is a voltage cutoff circuit in place. Likely a diode setup with the internal relay. If the PC board was not epoxy'd in the controller case, I would have modified the circuit myself. Eitherway, with the adjustable power supply, I can find the sweet spot. My hope is to gain at least 6volt increase (32-33V) which will give me atleast 25% more speed and torque. I know, why not replace the stock controller? 1. I want to keep the bike operating within spec range so I can keep commuting without having to replace parts (i.e. motor burnout, controller burnout, etc). 2. I like the PAS function and if I upgrade the controller, I'd have to spend more money to maintain a 1/2 power cruise control. 3. My main goal is to reduce my commute time to 45min which means I need an average speed of 24MPH. I think I can get close to 50min with this upgrade and even add some addition capacity without breaking the bank or going overboard with the mods. If everything works out, I will likely buy one more 12V, 12AH lifePO4 battery and a new charger. UPDATE 2/13/13: STOCK CONTROLLER CAN ONLY DO 30.4V BEFORE CUTOFF. 4V INCREASE IS 7-8% PERFORMANCE BOOST OR 1.4MPH. NOT REALLY WORTH THE EFFORT FOR LESS THAN 10% BOOST.
Thanks for reading.
About me: I'm 30yrs old, 6'-2", 215lbs and athletic. I'm NOT a cyclist. I simply use my bike to commute 18miles one-way to work. I purchased the bike in Late Oct 2012. I currently have 1044 miles on it.
Here are my bike stats/results based on different configurations along my 18mile commute that includes a ton of hills and short flats. I ALWAY peddle with the bike.
20T Stock Setup w/ 14AH Deep Cycle SLA Batteries (OEM 10AH batteries could not survive my usage):
1. Max Speed before motor cutout: 16MPH
2. Full Throttle Pedal Assist Distance: 16-18miles
3. AH Used: 8AH-10AH
4. AVG Speed: 14MPH
5. Reviews: Top speed is not that great but hill climbing is not bad. Good compromise between speed and torque at 20T for low cost bike.
Upgraded Setup (16T Motor side freewheel, 11T-30T Freewheel, Parallel 24V SLA & LifePO4 batteries):
1. Max Speed before motor cutout: 20MPH
2. Full Throttle Pedal Assist Distance: 18-20miles
3. AH Used: 14-16AH
4. AVG Speed: 18MPH
5. Reviews: Thanks to DrkAngel for all the details on the 16T upgraded. Huge improvement over the stock setup for top speed. Torque is reduced. I know DrkAngel has argued more torque at higher speeds but unfortunately, some hills are just too steep to climb over 12-13MPH so the torque loss is noticable. The 11T freewheel upgrade was great to compliment the increased motor speed. Allows higher top speeds when you pedal with the bike. I used $2 40AMP blocking diodes to parallel my 12AH LifePO4 batteries and my 14AH SLA batteries. Motors tends to drain 60% more AH from the LifePO4 than the SLA, 9AH vs. 6AH respectively. Overall, I'm happy with the weight vs. capacity vs. price setup. I didnt have to waste the SLA batteries after I purchased to LifePO4 batteries.
Mid-drive Test Upgrade Setup (9T motor connected to a Left Side 44T Crankset, 11T-30T Freewheel, Parallel 24V SLA & LifePO4 batteries):
1. Max Speed before motor cutout: 35MPH
2. Full Throttle Pedal Assist Distance: 20-24miles
3. AH Used: 9-12AH
4. AVG Speed: 16MPH
5. Reviews: I only had this setup for one day so results are based only on (2)18mile commutes with 20MPH headwind and tailwind. With the mid-drive setup, the motor worked thru my bike gears. All I did was install a left side crankset with 44T chainring connected directly to the motor 9T sprocket. I did a excel spreadsheet of the speed, gear ratio, torque reductions, etc of all the gear combinations. The spreadsheet pattern was very accurate. At low gear ratios, I had great torque for hills, slow speed and opposite for high gear ratios. I learned that this setup is very similar to a manual transmission and works best when in the correct gear giving motor max power at 50% of no load RPM max (470RPM = 235RPM). Motor cutout really didnt exist. I was going 35MPH downhill which is WAY to fast on the Ezip brakes! Torque at the 11T high gear was terrible which is what the spreadsheet calculated. I couldn't pick up much speed on a flat unless I got it up to 20MPH myself. Once I got up to 20-25MPH, the motor exceled me to 35MPH with a decline. With this setup, flats were best taken on the 4th or 5th cog. Hills were slow but SUPER easy in the 1st, 2nd and even 3rd gear. Speeds were low, around 10-13MPH. The PAS setup worked better with this setup. I was easily crusing at 20MPH on flats using on PAS (no throttle). Most of the time, I only used the throttle going up hills and going down hills. The mid-drive setup is great for someone who has a combination of hills and flats. You can truly get the best of both worlds without killing your battery. I think in the future I will invest in a freewheel crankset and move the motor to the bottom bracket. For now, I like the effort I put in climbing hills and having a higher average speed. Not sure I'm ready to go 35MPH on brake pads either.
Upcoming Upgraded Setup (16T Motor side freewheel, 11T-30T Freewheel, 36V SLA batteries @30V-34V on stock controller):
1. Caclulated Max Speed before motor cutout: 25MPH
2. Calculated Full Throttle Pedal Assist Distance: 20-23miles
3. Calculated AH Used: 10-12AH
4. Calculated AVG Speed: 22MPH
5. Thoughts: I purchased $20 worth of parts to build a adjustable 37V, 30A voltage regulator. My plan is to use the 14AH and the OEM 20AH (OEM batteries paralled) batteries to create a 36V (approx. 40V) battery pack that will be converted down to 30V-34V. The stock controller cannot do 36V nominal which is really 40V at full charge. Based on another users testing and my own, the stock controller CAN do 30V. I don't know the high limit cutoff voltage but I'm guessing it is between 30V-34V. I opened the controller and it have 35V capacitors. This does not mean this is the limit b/c it could be limited by the other components but we know there is a voltage cutoff circuit in place. Likely a diode setup with the internal relay. If the PC board was not epoxy'd in the controller case, I would have modified the circuit myself. Eitherway, with the adjustable power supply, I can find the sweet spot. My hope is to gain at least 6volt increase (32-33V) which will give me atleast 25% more speed and torque. I know, why not replace the stock controller? 1. I want to keep the bike operating within spec range so I can keep commuting without having to replace parts (i.e. motor burnout, controller burnout, etc). 2. I like the PAS function and if I upgrade the controller, I'd have to spend more money to maintain a 1/2 power cruise control. 3. My main goal is to reduce my commute time to 45min which means I need an average speed of 24MPH. I think I can get close to 50min with this upgrade and even add some addition capacity without breaking the bank or going overboard with the mods. If everything works out, I will likely buy one more 12V, 12AH lifePO4 battery and a new charger. UPDATE 2/13/13: STOCK CONTROLLER CAN ONLY DO 30.4V BEFORE CUTOFF. 4V INCREASE IS 7-8% PERFORMANCE BOOST OR 1.4MPH. NOT REALLY WORTH THE EFFORT FOR LESS THAN 10% BOOST.
Thanks for reading.
